A VISIT TO THAILAND - Micah & Rouen

Thailand (19.1)

Micah & Rouen
15 March - 5 April 2019

Photos

13-14 March – Jomtien, Pattaya

I’d precisely one day to do laundry and repack bags before travelling to Bangkok to meet Rouen (brother-in-law) and Micah (Niece) on a three-week holiday in Thailand. The easiest way of getting to Bangkok was to catch an airport bus and, from there, a bus direct to Khao San Road, leaving a short stroll to the Riverline Guesthouse.

 

15 March - Bangkok

Rouen and Micah arrived around 3.30 pm, and we wasted no time exploring the nearby area. They must have been exhausted following their long flight but never indicated they wanted to stay put. As Rouen’s bag didn’t arrive on the same flight, we hoped it would reappear the following day. Still, we searched for clothing, just in case the bag didn’t materialise. Finally, enough time remained to do my favourite budget sunset cruise on the Chao Phraya River. The trip involved catching the late ferry to its final destination and returning on the last boat. All at 30 THB. Luckily, the weather was good, and the ride offered a spectacular sunset. The Chao Phraya River is a busy river with a constant traffic flow, and the river breeze is a welcome relief from the Bangkok heat. Our ferry passed barges carrying huge loads moving slowly upstream as people commuting to and from work filled the boat.

Returning, we hurried to the famous Gecko Bar for beer and food. That night, Rouen and I sat on the terrace of the Riverline Guesthouse, reminiscing about old times. Finally, after a few beers, we concluded the world was in the right mess and stumbled off to bed.

 

16 March - Bangkok

Following a delicious plate of noodle soup, we roamed the streets of old Bangkok. Our meander took us past the old Phra Sumen Fort, one of only two remaining forts out of 14 built more than two centuries ago. Following the Burmese destruction of Ayutthaya in 1767, Bangkok was established as the new capital. Initially, Bangkok was a walled city with canals dug to act as a moat. However, the university campus has an excellent location, right on the busy River Chao Phraya, and a walkabout revealed ruins of the old city wall.

The amulet market sported a beautiful and bizarre collection of amulets, albeit somewhat creepy. The market sells small talismans and is primarily frequented by collectors, monks and taxi drivers. The clientele mainly appeared men looking through magnifying glasses at tiny amulets, primarily used for “good luck” or fertility. Several items appeared more ominous looking than innocent Buddha necklaces. In fact, a few seemed downright voodoo-ish!

Before popping into one of Bangkok’s most visited spots, Wat Pho temple, home to a massive reclining Buddha, it was necessary to remove shoes. The statue measures 46 metres long and 15 metres tall and is covered in gold leaf, an impressive sight by anyone’s standards. The reclining Buddha represents the historical Buddha during his last illness, about to enter parinirvana. On leaving the vast hall, one could purchase a bowl of coins which were then dropped in the 108 bronze bowls lining the length of the wall. Dropping the coins into the bowls made a beautiful ringing sound. I understood the money went towards helping the monks renovate and preserve Wat Pho. One hundred and eight is a significant number in Buddhism, referring to the 108 positive actions and symbols which helped lead Buddha to perfection.

That evening we strolled along the famous Khao San Road, ate a few bugs, and drank smoothies from the cart around the corner. We further learned it was election day, and no beer was sold. Fortunately, Rouen brought two bottles of red wine from home. So we sat on the roof terrace looking out over the Chao Praya River, enjoying a good bottle of South African wine.

 

17 March - Bangkok

A slight misunderstanding caused missing the train to Samut Songkhram, home to the Maeklong Railway Market.

Still, we managed to catch the 10.30 one, but it took a long wait for a connecting train. So a better option was a minivan taxi. This allowed us to watch the train come through the legendary Maeklong Market. Here a warren of stalls spilt over onto the railway line. As the train approached, traders hastily packed produce and canopies, allowing the train to pass. Once passed, everything went back into place in record time and trade continued as if nothing had happened.

Then onto the Amphawa floating market in Songthaew. Eventually, we returned to Bangkok by minivan, where we opted for beer on the roof terrace.

 

18 March - Bangkok

Feeling lazy, we all slept in and thus late when we had breakfast at the Gecko Bar. Micah wanted a tattoo, so we enquired at Divine Ink about time and prices. Bangkok was sweltering, and after having our fill of dim sum, we made our way to the relative coolness of our guesthouse to relax until sunset.

 

19 March Bangkok – Ayutthaya by train

The following day we headed to the train station to board a train to Ayutthaya. The train was hot and the seats hard, but it came at a very reasonable price. Arriving in Ayutthaya was in the mid-day heat and we flagged down a tuk-tuk for the short ride to Baan Lotus Guesthouse. The sweltering weather made opting for an air-con room in this lovely old building.

Later a short walk took us to the UNESCO World Heritage Park. Once the capital of the Kingdom of Siam, Ayutthaya was founded around 1350. The city enjoyed an ideal location between China, India, and the Malay Archipelago and soon became Asia’s trading capital. By 1700 Ayutthaya had become the largest city in the world, sporting a total of 1 million inhabitants. However, all this came to a swift end when the Burmese invaded Ayutthaya in 1767 and practically raised it to the ground.

Albeit too hot to take pictures, we snapped a few before returning to our aircon room, only to reappear long past sunset.

 

20 March Ayutthaya – Kanchanaburi – by Mini Van

A minivan picked us up for the ride to Kanchanaburi. Less than three hours later, we were dropped at Tamarind Guesthouse, where we booked a barge on the River Kwai. Brutally hot, we stayed indoors until around 5 o’clock before wandering to the bridge over the famous River Kwai.

The bridge is a significant tourist attraction in Kanchanaburi. Hundreds of people were milling about, taking pictures and strolling across the bridge to the opposite side. En route to our abode, we followed suit and uncovered a roadside eatery and beer.

 

21-22 March - Kanchanaburi – Hua Hin

Finally, we headed to the famous Thailand coast for a beach holiday. A tuk-tuk took us to the bus terminal, where minivans ran to Hua Hin. Again, a 3-hour ride and dropped within easy walking distance to our guesthouse. A room in an old, rickety guesthouse situated on stilts right over the water became home for the next two nights. We wasted no time heading to the beach, where the rest of the afternoon was spent in the shade of a large umbrella. In fact, so pleasant was Hua Hin we stayed an additional day.

 

23 March - Hua Hin – Koh Phangan

Checking out was at midday, although our bus to Surat Thani was only at 22h00. Micah and I found it pretty impossible to sleep, but Rouen dozed off occasionally. Our arrival in Surat Thani was around 8h00, from where a bus transported us to Don Sak pier to catch our ferry to Koh Phangan. Arriving at the Tropicana Resort, we were dead tired but headed straight to the ocean.

 

24–29 March - Koh Phangan

The days slipped by without doing a great deal. Instead, we swam in the lukewarm water of the Gulf of Thailand, drank cold beers and ate numerous plates of Thai food. Rouen and I attempted half-heartedly to run but never covered a significant distance. Eventually, Rouen rented a motorbike and, with Micah, set off to explore the remainder of the island.

 

30 March - Koh Phangan – Bangkok

We checked out of our comfortable accommodation and strolled to the ferry port, where enough time remained to grab a bite to eat. The ferry to Surat Thani takes almost 2.5 hours, and once there, all were ushered into a bus to the city centre. From the city centre, passengers were taken by tuk-tuk to a different bus station to catch the bus to Bangkok. This gave us enough time to explore the night market and sample an array of tasty dishes. Eventually, we boarded the night bus, a long and uncomfortable ride into Bangkok.

 

31 March – Bangkok

A day of leisure was spent in Bangkok as Micah had an appointment at the tattoo studio. Afterwards, we headed to Pattaya, where a few days were spent.

 

1-4 April - Pattaya

We lazed around the swimming pool and walked along the beachfront, nibbling food from the night market while drinking copious amounts of smoothies, iced coffees, and Chang beer. Unfortunately, we didn’t do half the planned, but Micah and Rouen had to return to Cape Town.

Having them was a pleasure; I hoped it wouldn’t be 12 years until their next visit.

CAMBODIA (9.2) - JANICE - PART 2 - PHNOM PENH TO THAILAND

 

CAMBODIA (9.2) – Janice - Part 2

Phnom Penh - Thailand
301 Km - 7 Days
1 March – 7 March 2019

MAP

PHOTOS

  

1 March – Phnom Penh – Angkor Borei – 93 km

Janice and I biked out of Phnom Penh amidst hectic morning traffic and past men eating noodles soup from their haunches from mobile carts. Twenty kilometres later, we were fortunately out of the thick of things.

Having had enough of the congestion, we veered off to follow a smaller path running next to the Tonle Sap River. Halfway Janice stopped and bought a new saddle, hoping it would sort out her butt problem. The road was mostly paved, and we only encountered a short stretch of dirt road, thus arriving in Angkor Borei in good time.

 

2-3 March - Angkor Borei – Kampot – 103 km

Knowing it would be a tough day of cycling, we set out as early as possible. However, the Angkor Borei/Takeo ferry only got underway at around 8h00. Packed in like sardines, the boat sped across the lake, saving us a long and rough ride around the lake. Unfortunately, no paved road connected Takeo to the main road. We struggled along on a sandy and rough track until reaching the highway. Once there, the going became considerably more manageable, and good time was made in the direction of Kampot.

Unfortunately, 20 kilometres from Kampot the road deteriorated (to put it mildly) as a new road was being built. In the company of other vehicles, we snaked our way around potholes in a cloud of dust, making dreadfully slow progress. Covered in dust, Janice and I eventually biked into Kampot and headed straight to Kampot River Bungalow. To our dismay they were full but, mercifully, a nipa hut on stilts next door at the Naga House was available. Naga House is a beautiful setup on the river sporting a wooden dock over the water.

Staying the next day came easy as we couldn’t drag ourselves away from such a beautiful setting.

 

4 March - Kampot – Sihanoukville – 105 km

Although February is the dry season in Cambodia, rain usually falls during this time. Unfortunately, we haven’t experienced any rain since departing Bangkok, a month and a half before. Over three-quarters of Cambodia’s population relies primarily on subsistence agriculture. Drought can, thus, tip large numbers of people into poverty. For us, the lack of rain made the ride a dry and dusty affair.

At first, the road was brand new and the going good. However, halfway to Veal Renh, we encountered the dreaded roadworks. We found nearly all vehicles preferred driving next to the road instead of on it. Only the minivan taxis seemed unfazed by the enormous potholes.

We pushed on regardless, following the snaking traffic in a cloud of dust, eventually arriving in Sihanoukville in peak hour traffic. Unfortunately, Sihanoukville was nothing but a vast building site. All the old and well-known guesthouses were gone and, by then, either empty lots or places where new ones were being constructed. I was relieved to find the Big Easy still holding its own, albeit at the absorbent price of $30 a fan room. Time to head to the islands, and that was exactly what we did.

 

5 March – Sihanoukville – Koh Rong (by ferry)

Arrangements were made to leave our bicycles and panniers at the Big Easy and, armed with only one small bag; we headed to the ferry port. In no time at all, we found ourselves on Koh Rong Island with its crystal-clear water and laidback lifestyle. We lazed around and swam in the lukewarm waters of the Gulf of Thailand. We ate at tables on the water’s edge and did truly little apart from lounging about.

Eventually, the time came to return to the mainland and Thailand, where Janice stowed her bicycle box and from where she planned to fly home to Cape Town, South Africa.

 

6 March - Koh Rong – Sihanoukville (by ferry)

The ample choice of ferries to the mainland made a leisurely departure. Once in Sihanoukville, we collected our cycles and panniers from the Big Easy and went on the hunt for alternative accommodation as the Big Easy was fully booked. Supper was at one of the beach restaurants and, to me at least, it’s always a novelty to eat whilst wiggling my toes in the sand.

 

Thailand (19) – Janice – Cambodian border to Pattaya

15 Km – 8 Days

7 March – 14 April 2019

7-8 March - Sihanoukville – Klong Yai - 15 km

Out of visa time, a bus ticket was purchased from Sihanoukville to the Thai/Cambodian border. The bus departed at 8 o’clock and we were ready to roll at an early hour. Unfortunately, the bus didn’t leave until considerably later and, surprisingly, took us all the way to the border. Border crossings can be tedious affairs, but all went well, and we were stamped out of Cambodia and into Thailand without any problems. From the border, a mere 15 kilometres led to Klong Yai, which had accommodation and an exciting night market.

The next morning, a Songthaew (a covered pickup truck with open sides and seats along each side) took us to Trat. Unfortunately, Janice wasn’t feeling well and suffered from stomach problems (it must’ve been from the previous night’s cuisine). However, the ride was inexpensive, and the Songthaew dropped us at the Trat bus station. From Trat, busses ran to Pattaya.

Janice was terribly ill, and with at least four hours to wait until the next bus, there wasn’t a good deal she could do but try and lay down on the uncomfortable bus station plastic chairs. Eventually, the bus arrived and the sun was long gone on arrival in Pattaya. In darkness, we cycled the last few kilometres to Jomtien, bringing to an end Janice’s holiday.

 

9-12 March - Pattaya

Being a day ahead of schedule, good use was made of our time and on emerging at leisure we strolled to the beach. Janice, by then, felt considerably better, and could do last-minute shopping, pack her bike and get ready for her flight to Cape Town. But, unfortunately, far too soon the time came for her to head to the airport for her flight to South Africa.

 

13-14 March - Pattaya

I’d precisely one day to do laundry and repack bags before heading to Bangkok, where I met Rouen (brother-in-law) and Micah (niece and godchild) for a three-week backpacking holiday in Thailand. The easiest way of getting to Bangkok was to catch a bus to the airport and, from there, a bus directly to Khao San Road, leaving a short meander to the Riverline Guesthouse, my abode of choice.

CYCLE TOURING CAMBODIA (9.1) - A RIDE AROUND CAMBODIA - CAMERA IN HAND - MEGAN, ERMA & JANICE

 

CAMBODIA (9.1)

913 Km – 25 Days
2 February – 27 February 2019

PHOTOS

MAP

 2 February - Phnom Penh

Megan and Erma arrived in Phnom Penh late on 2 February and must’ve been exhausted after their long flight. Still, it was lovely to meet them; unfortunately, their flight landed in the afternoon, and there remained little time to do anything of note. There barely remained enough time to head to the promenade, where one could stroll along in the company of Khmers doing their daily exercises.

Phnom Penh has a wonderful location on the Tonle Sap River, which connects Tonle Sap Lake to the Mekong. The two rivers meet at Phnom Penh, making it a convenient place to watch the river flow past.

Our evening meal was at the night market, where one could pick delicacies from the countless stalls and then enjoy them sitting on mats provided for such a purpose. As expected, Erma and Megan turned in early as they departed Namibia 24 hours earlier and were, understandably, exhausted.

 

3 February - Phnom Penh

Together with my jetlagged friends, we were up at dawn. Not only to stroll towards the Royal Palace but to make the best use of the early morning light. It’s such a pleasure being out at that time of the morning. As Kipling said, “The dawn came up like thunder” while strolling past the immensely popular Preah Ang Dorngkeu Shrine, where people prayed for good luck. Even at such an early hour, devotees were lighting candles, and the smell of incense was already thick in the air.

We wandered the grounds of Wat Ounalom, the headquarters of Cambodian Buddhism. Founded in 1443, we understood the head of the country’s Buddhist brotherhood lived on-site. The stupa is further rumoured to contain an eyebrow hair of the Buddha.

Later, once the bikes were reassembled, Megan and Erma explored the city’s famous sights by tuk-tuk. Janice and I did a few outstanding chores, and before knowing it, time came to head to the river for a sunset cruise. Armed with a few beers, we boarded a ferry via a narrow gangplank and spent a few enjoyable hours on the river watching the sun set over this famous river.

Supper was done in true Khmer style by ordering various dishes and sharing them amongst the four of us. The frog was delicious, as were the salad spring rolls and the other dishes.

 

4 February – Phnom Penh - Koh Dock - 52 km

Preparations for Chinese New Year were in full swing as our little group pedalled out of Phnom Penh in the direction of Koh Dach, or Silk Island, situated at the confluence of the Tonle and Mekong Rivers. The route to the ferry was approximately nine kilometres. It took us through typical Cambodian suburbs, wooden houses on stilts and hand-drawn carts pulled and pushed by manpower. Greetings of “Happy New Year!” were called from doorways, and others burned paper money offerings in honour of ancestors. Temples were hives of activities as Chinese New Year was when people gifted monks with vast quantities of food.

On reaching the ferry, a short ride took us to the island known for its silk weaving. Cambodia has a lengthy silk-weaving history, believed to date to pre-Angkorian times. Albeit a dwindling art, Koh Dach was still dotted by weaving communities. On the ferry, a lady befriended us and offered to show us her home where they spun silk. We watched in fascination as they went about their trade, and were in awe of their ability to weave such intricate patterns.

A country lane circumnavigates the island, making for a pleasurable ride and an opportunity to drink coconut juice. The lady skilfully hacked open the coconuts using a machete. Once finished, we handed them back to the vendor, who cracked them open and crafted spoons from the side to scrape out the coconut meat within. The path led past small kids, giving the impression they were a tad nervous seeing four “farangs” on bicycles.

Following a light lunch of pork pau and ice cream, our slightly dusty path took us to the ferry. Unfortunately, Erma discovered her seat stem broken, and we hailed a tuk-tuk to take her to our abode. On arrival at the guesthouse, Erma and I searched for a bike shop. Still, the majority were closed due to Chinese New Year celebrations. I thought us super lucky to find a shop still open to replace the seat stem. Then, back to have a shower before returning to the night market.

 

5 February – Phnom Penh – Oudong(k) – 52 km

Leaving Phnom Penh was on Chinese New Year and in the direction of Oudonk. Getting out of Phnom Penh was surprisingly effortless, and I was impressed by how well my friends handled the horrendous Phnom Penh traffic, which can intimidate newcomers.

Soon, the hectic road spat us out on a country lane and past fascinating brick-making kilns. Our route took us past rural areas where kids still rode a “broom-horse” or played “kick the flip-flop”, the rules of which still elude me. Roadside stalls sold tamarind and lotus seeds, which were not as tasty as anticipated. But, to the surprise of one eatery owner, four foreign women on bicycles stopped and ordered noodle soup. The soup was delicious, albeit prepared using instant noodles, but they were forgiven as it was, after all, Chinese New Year.

With renewed energy, we set off and came upon the remarkable Wat Sowann Thamareach. This wasn’t a traditional temple but seemed a copy of an ancient one. The buildings were exquisite with amazing light inside; still, it appeared little known.

A country lane led to Phnom Udong, past a hill topped by spires of stupas resembling a fairy castle. The stupa on the central hill was rumoured to house the remains of past kings and once at the top stunning scenes greeted us. Such vistas seldom came without first having to ascend a few stairs. My friends took the stairs in their stride and never complained about being dragged up a hill after a day on the bike.

From Phnom Udong, a short ride took us to Oudonk which sported a few places to stay and we picked one across the road from a restaurant. So came to an end our first day of riding. Kudos to Janice, Megan and Erma, who rode like seasoned cycle tourers, never complaining even when the road was poor.

 

6-7 February - Oudongk – Kampong Chhnang – 55 km

On waking, our room had been invaded by ants. Just about the whole shebang was covered in ants, from our snacks to the towels! I dressed in a great hurry to take my panniers outside, only to discover I’d not only the proverbial ants in my pants but real ones. The pants were promptly ripped off but I was already covered in ant bites by then! Phew!

The way was unpleasantly congested, but the lack of minor roads made us continue along the highway, only turning off once to follow a rural route through the countryside. On rounding a corner, Megan slipped in the loose sand and landed herself in a ditch in a cloud of dust. Before she could dust herself off, the entire community was there to help. Mercifully, she was unhurt and apart from a dirty bum and bruised ego, all was good. Not much further, a shady coconut seller allowed a breather. The lady (as always) hacked it open so one could eat the flesh inside. Janice wanted to try the “hacking open” but nearly chopped her thumb off! Clearly, she needed a great deal more machete practice. Before we proceeded to Kampong Chhnang, her wound was cleaned and bandaged as best we could.

The Garden Guesthouse, a real traveller’s lodge, lured us in. Janice and I caught a tuk-tuk to the health care centre where they cleaned her wound and re-bandaged it. An additional day was spent in Kampong Chhnang to allow Janice to get an anti-tetanus injection and investigate the nearby floating village.

The next morning, Janice and I woke early to go to the health care centre where she received the necessary injection. Better safe than sorry. Afterwards, Janice, Megan and Erma took a boat to the floating village, and I returned to our establishment to take care of a few chores.

 

8 February – Kampong Chhnang – Ponley – 55 km

As Chhnang means pottery in Khmer, it wasn’t surprising to find pottery in the area. Our first stop was at the pottery community of Andong Russey. Andong Russey was a small settlement where pots were stacked high under stilted homes. Stopping at various home industries, we found the process fascinating and photogenic. We clicked away before waving the families goodbye and headed further north. The route continued past an old Khmer Rouge abandoned airport, a complex built by the KR with the help of Chinese engineers. I understood the airport was never used and is still in good condition. No exploring was done.

Our path followed country roads past tiny hamlets where people still pumped water from wells. En route, we stopped spotting a young man scrambling up a makeshift bamboo ladder fixed to a sugar palm tree. It seemed containers were left in the tree overnight and full ones were collected in the morning. After being offered a sip, I was initially apprehensive but found it sweet and surprisingly delicious. The juice is boiled to make palm sugar.

The route continued past rice drying in the sun and the ever-present Buddhist temples. Farmers herd cattle along dusty roads as both kids and parents looked up in surprise as four foreign women pedalled past on loaded bicycles. Even the dogs looked too surprised to give chase.

A hawker provided watermelon which the lady peeled and cut up for us to enjoy. Janice, for obvious reasons, wasn’t allowed anywhere close to the knife. The watermelon was served with a side plate of sugar, salt and chillies, a rather unusual combination.

Then, on to the tiny community of Ponley where our arrival was in oppressing heat. The heat made exhausting riding and I think all were happy to find an air-con room to unwind the remainder of the day.

 

9 February – Ponely – Kampong Luong floating Village – 35 km

Departing Ponely was in the company of krama-clad ladies on bicycles and past stalls selling fruit we’d never seen before. Milk fruit or star apple is a round purple fruit with a soft inside and a vague blueberry taste. Other shops sold sugar discs made from sugar palm juice, fermented vegetables, and dried buffalo meat. Being weekend, several wedding ceremonies were encountered. It looked as if the entire wedding party was dressed in matching, brightly coloured silk costumes.

A road sign pointed to Kampong Luong. A few kilometres later boats waited to take people to and from the floating village of Kampong Luong. Arranging to leave our bicycles at their “office” was an uncomplicated affair. We hopped on a boat past countless floating homes to a homestay. Being a floating home, space was at a premium and the owner pointed us to two teeny rooms with mattresses on the floor and much-needed mosquito nets above. Sitting on the veranda, watching life in a floating village play out in front of us, wasn’t only pleasant but an eye-opener.

It looked as if kids who could hardly walk could quite comfortably row a boat. Kampong Luong was like any other settlement and included shops, petrol stations, schools, temples, and a police station. The only difference being the whole shebang floated. More astonishing, it appeared the water was used for pretty much everything, from having a bath to doing dishes and laundry. At the same time, everything seemed to go into the water! Staying in the village was a fascinating insight into the people’s lives.

 

10 February – Kampong Luong – Pursat – 65 km

First thing in the morning, a boat taxi collected and dropped us where we stowed the bicycles. Right from the start, our route followed rural roads past scrawny white cows and ornate temples. Houses on stilts sold petrol by the litre in Coke bottles while others were de-husking rice. Makeshift shops sold water and penny line sweets; others offered noodle soup and drinks more potent than water.

The hot and dusty day left us covered in red dust and required stopping at every shop to fill our water bottles. Spotting the ice cream man, we were as excited as the village kids and fell in line to wait our turn under scores of giggles. Pursat made a welcome sight and a place where one could still find a hotel with a bathtub!

 

11 February – Pursat – Moung Ruessei – 62 km

Exploring an old and spooky brickmaking factory made an exciting start to the day while monks and their helpers collected food. Interestingly, when collecting food monks don’t say thank you. The giving of alms isn’t considered a charity; instead, the giving and receiving of alms create a spiritual connection between the monastic and lay communities. The public has a responsibility to support the monks physically. In turn, the monks are obligated to spiritually support the community—what a lovely philosophy.

In the midday heat, temples made welcome resting areas as they usually had shade and toilets. On this occasion, it turned out a fascinating monastery with boy monks. Even though the young monks were incredibly shy, we snapped a few pics. Stopping wasn’t only to fill water bottles but to sample what was available at roadside eateries. The day’s favourite was fruit, especially the sweet and tasty pineapples.

In Moung Ruessei, the Oudom Hotel, with its pristine swimming pool, made comfortable accommodation and staying thus a no-brainer. Supper was at a nearby restaurant where we met Steve, an incredibly generous Cambodian who not only bought us beer but proceeded to pay for our meal. Thank you, Steve.

 

12-13 February - Moung Ruessei – Battambang – 86 km

In anticipation of a long day of biking, we made an early start. Our route followed a secondary road, but the paved road soon vanished and turned into a rough, bumpy dirt track. Still, it remained an interesting ride past old temples and villagers going about their daily routines. An old rice mill made a fascinating stop as inside it had an array of shoots, funnels, gears and belts.

Not much further, a lady peddled grilled rats from a wicker basket balanced on her head, and one was, nervously, purchased at a mere 1000 riel ($0.25 US). Everyone tried a piece, and all agreed grilled rat was delicious and better than chicken. The meat was tender and had a faint barbeque taste. I was impressed when Megan tried a small piece, albeit under the impression it was a squirrel. After learning it was indeed rat, she politely declined one more portion of tender thigh!

Realising our chosen route would take far too long, we returned to the main road making an unnecessary 20-kilometre detour. Thankfully, a stiff tailwind assisted us en route to Banan. The excellent road cycled on came to an end, but we persevered until reaching Banan, home to an ancient hilltop temple. This Angkor-era mountaintop temple was constructed between the 11th and 12th centuries. Construction was started by King Ut Tak Yea Tit Tya Varman II (1050-1066) and completed by King Jayavarman VII (1181-1219). From Banan temple, a pleasurable 22-kilometre ride took us to Battambang where we bunked down at the Royal Hotel.

By morning, a tuk-tuk ride made exploring the outlying Ek Phnom temple easy. En route, we stopped at the rice paper makers to eat freshly made spring rolls and passed hardworking ironmongers. At sunset, we headed for the hills to watch a gazillion bats fly out of their cave searching for food. A truly spectacular sight.

 

14 February – Battambang – Siem Reap – By boat - 14 km

We were up remarkably early to catch the boat across the Tonle Sap Lake to Siem Reap. In the wet season, this involves a short and uncomplicated cycle to the ferry pier. However, in the dry season, the water is far too shallow, and it took a 50-kilometre tuk-tuk ride to get us to the boat. Albeit a fascinating trip, it remained an awfully long day on a boat and all were happy to reach the end of the boat ride.

A short pedal led into bustling Siem Reap. The Jiu Yan Wu Angkor Hotel was considered a bargain at $20 a twin room, including a pool and breakfast. The evening was spent in lively and touristy Pub Street where we not only ate but did a wee bit of shopping.

 

15 February – Siem Reap

The previous night a tuk-tuk with Mr Lam at $30 was organised. The tour included a morning at the Angkor temples and returning to the Bayon temple at sunset. Being in the company of Megan was a great advantage as she guided us through shooting inside temples. I will be forever grateful to her for showing me the light! By evening a bottle of wine was polished off before supper, making the evening even more fun.

 

16 February - Siem Reap

Templed out, all slept late. I went for a run, and we later met for breakfast. Then, each went off in their respective directions. The previous night’s wine gave a taste of the good life, and an additional bottle was purchased to take to the restaurant. It turned out a fun evening - so much fun was had, the bill was paid twice!

 

17 February – Siem Reap – Svay Leu temple – 67 km

After breakfast, we pedalled out of Siem Reap. It took no time at all to find a rural path leading through tiny hamlets and seldom-visited areas. Ladies carted toddlers (to school?) in homemade wooden carts. Our dirt path was shared by pot salesmen, tuk-tuks and ladies leading cattle to greener pastures. Kids sold boiled corn which made convenient snacking, after which we popped into a temple and found the monks preparing their midday meal. A few pics were snapped before continuing our ride.

Eventually, landing in Svay Leu, permission was granted to sleep at the temple. Sleeping at the temple turned out a fascinating experience as monks prepared to celebrate Meak Bochea. Meak Bochea is a religious holiday in Cambodia commemorating Buddha’s final sermon. To the villagers’ surprise, four foreigners made their way to a nearby restaurant where noodle soup was ordered following a lengthy discussion and sign language.

 

18 February - Svay Leu Temple – Preah Vihear – 98 km

I can’t say we’d a peaceful night’s sleep as the temple dogs howled the best part of the night and temple music played (what felt like) the entire night. Early morning, chickens started crowing, which also got the dogs going. I guess it was time to get up anyhow. The commotion led to an earlier than usual start, first stopping for breakfast which consisted of yet another bowl of noodle soup.

The section between Svay Leu and Preah Vihear was a longer than usual day of riding. Mercifully, the day was cloudy, making for pleasurable cycling and stopping numerous times to fill our water bottles.

There weren’t many photo stops as we stuck to the task at hand and headed to Preah Vihear. The road passed huge cashew nut plantations where these strange fruits were in the process of becoming ripe. A great deal of the way was either planted under cashew nuts or were cashew nut nurseries. Towards the end of the day, four hot, tired, dusty farangs slinked into tiny Preah Vihear, ready to devour whatever was on offer.

 

19 February – Preah Vihear – Chhaeb - 57 km

Our leisurely start was due to the previous day’s long ride. Following a breakfast of rice porridge, we continued our quest. Our first stop was at a Buddhist temple where Meak Bochea was being celebrated. Devotees brought food to the temple and monks and nuns sat on mats, enjoying the feast.

After taking a few pics and thanking the monks, we continued in the direction of Chhaeb along a somewhat desolate stretch of road. Not a great deal was happening, and good time was made, only stopping to fill our water bottles. The weather was sweltering; even motorbike salesmen pulled off to rest in the shade. The four crazy women, nevertheless, continued and reached Chhaeb relatively early.

A guesthouse provided reasonable accommodation and only a short walk to the temple where monks weren’t only chanting but where a small fanfare was in progress. We hung around, waiting for the full moon, but nothing came of our full moon photoshoot as the sky was too hazy. Megan, not surprisingly, managed to get a few brilliant shots. Returning to our abode, a street-side eatery provided beer, fried noodles and rice.

 

20 February – Chhaeb – Stung Treng – 88 km

Before leaving one more visit was paid to the temple, but it turned out already too late to get any decent pictures. Megan went far earlier and captured the best pics of the trip.

The way to Stung Treng was effortless riding and the weather was in our favour. The tarmac was excellent, and the route gently undulating, just enough to keep the boredom at bay. Loading the bikes, cycling, stopping to fill our water bottles or admiring the landscape became a familiar routine.

Our day’s ride finished in Stung Treng, where the Golden River Hotel, situated right on the river, was home that night.

 

21 February – Stung Treng – Kratie – by minivan

The stretch between Stung Treng and Kratie was 130 kilometres and offered little of interest. While considering taking a bus, our decision was made even easier when we were approached and offered a minivan ride to Kratie. The quote of $20 per person, including bicycles, was considered a fair price. Once in Kratie, a tuk-tuk ride took us to the pier, where boats departed to the river dolphin viewing. The skipper didn’t have to go far as the dolphins were playing close by, and we sat watching them in fascination.

It needs mentioning that the Irrawaddy dolphins are rare freshwater dolphins. Unlike most dolphin species with long noses and pointed features, the Irrawaddy species have a blunt nose, straight mouth, rounded tail, and fins. It’s said genetically; these dolphins are closely related to the killer whale (orca). How interesting! Although called the Irrawaddy River dolphin, I understood they are not actual river dolphins but oceanic dolphins living in brackish water near coasts, river mouths, and estuaries. By now, it has established subpopulations in freshwater rivers, including the Ganges and the Mekong. These dolphins are highly vulnerable as the worldwide population appears around 7,000. One more interesting fact is they are practically blind. They have tiny eyes, lack lenses, and can do little more than distinguish between light and dark. What a fascinating world!

 

22 February – Kratie – Peace Hut – 86 km

From Kratie, we opted for the river trail. The Mekong River forms the heart of Cambodia, and 80% of Cambodians still follow a traditional lifestyle. Our route felt like a never-ending village, past people living simple lives by fishing and farming rice. The Khmers have a close connection to family and generally live together in extended families. With Cambodians loving big families, plenty of kids were running amok.

Towards the end of the day, The Peace Hut signalled the end of our day’s ride. The Peace Hut was a pleasant surprise and came with two basic nipa huts on stilts right on the banks of the Mekong River. The two rooms had mats for sleeping and a small bamboo deck to unwind and watch the river. In addition, a bamboo viewing platform was the perfect place to enjoy our nightly beer. All at $2 per person!

 

23-24 February - Peace Hut – Kampong Chan - 40 km

Shortly after departing, our path crossed the river. It then ran along the opposite bank to Kampong Cham, a short but exciting ride. The Mekong Hotel was a good choice offering $15 air-con rooms with river vistas.

The next day was spent in Kampong Cham, as it turned out a relaxed place to hang out and enjoy our last day of cycle touring. A short cycle took us to the bamboo bridge, rebuilt each year after the rainy season. The Mekong River separates Kampong Cham town from Koh Paen. However, the river becomes too shallow in the dry season for a ferry. So, the island’s residents each year build a seasonal, kilometre-long bamboo bridge.

At first, the plan was to cycle from Kampong Cham to Phnom Penh. However, the ride into the city came with horrendous traffic. Furthermore, the ride is mainly along a highway, which doesn’t make a good combination for cycle touring. We thus arranged a minivan to take us into the city, making it a more enjoyable way to end the holiday.

 

25-27 February - Kampong Cham – Phnom Penh (by minivan)

The minivan picked us up at 9h00, and with bikes strapped to the rear, it headed to Phnom Penh, where we were relieved to arrive, finding all four bikes still intact.

Megan and Erma’s last few days were spent shopping, eating, and doing a few things not done previously. However, enough time remained to re-visit the morning market, where ladies fried and steamed their respective delicacies. Through a cloud of steam, we watched early morning shoppers filling their bags or eating from the endless array of vendors where pots and pans were clanging, steaming, bubbling and sizzling.

With Megan and Erma’s bikes boxed and shopping done, they soon headed to the airport to catch their return flight to Namibia.

CYCLE TOURING CAMBODIA (9) - THAILAND TO PHNOM PENH - JANICE 2019

 

CAMBODIA (9)
220 Km - 7 Days
25 January – 1 February 2019

MAP

PHOTOS 

 

25 January - Ban Phakkat, Thailand – Pailin, Cambodia – 20 km

In the morning, a short bike ride took us to the border, where we’d a breakfast of noodle soup and omelette before continuing to the immigration office. For our exit stamps, locating the departure office was surprisingly tricky. A massive and brand spanking new building loomed ahead but without a single occupied office. Instead, we were pointed to a pre-fab building where one got stamped out of Thailand. Then on to the Cambodian immigration where a 1500 Thai baht visa allowed entry into Cambodia.

Janice didn’t feel her usual energetic self as she suffered from a cold and an upset stomach. Still, she managed to make her way up the hill until reaching the first settlement in Cambodia.

A sign to the Bamboo Guesthouse lured us in. On closer inspection, it turned out to be lovely bungalows with a swimming pool and top-class restaurant, all in a beautiful setting between bougainvillaea. The price for the room was the “exorbitant” sum of $12. We happily offloaded the bikes to enjoy a day at leisure.

The restaurant served delicious food, and we couldn’t believe our luck scoffing massive plates of wholesome Cambodian cuisine, all washed down with an Angkor beer. Mercifully, we got away by paying in Thai baht as there was no ATM nearby, all making a comfortable and relaxing day, albeit its history.

Pailin is where numerous Khmer Rouge leaders came from and retreated after their fall. It’s said practically 70 per cent of the area’s older men were fighters for the Khmer Rouge but, sadly, none have yet been brought to justice.

 

26 January - Pailin - Sdao – 60 km

First thing in the morning we searched for an ATM and bought new SIM cards. Janice also bought a blanket to use when camping. Then, on spotting a pharmacy, we picked up an entire box of Royal-D – the Asian oral rehydrate.

The day was marred by rutted dirt tracks where we bounced along to the delight of kids. Water stops came with plenty of stares and it appeared a rarity to see foreign women on bicycles. However, our back road eventually spat us out on the main road from where it was easy riding to Sdao.

Roadside stalls never fail to amaze and offered, amongst other things, horseshoe crabs. The fascinating part is that the earliest horseshoe crab fossils date back roughly 450 million years! Another interesting fact is horseshoe crabs use hemocyanin to carry oxygen through their blood. Because of the copper present in hemocyanin, their blood is blue. Also present was the immensely popular grilled chicken tails and, of course, the ever-present mice, rats and squirrels.

Janice wasn’t feeling well and camping was early at a Buddhist temple in Sdao. Supper was somewhat of a disaster as I went to the shops while Janice set up her tent. I found cup noodles and the famous Cambodian baguette. Sadly, Janice found the cup noodles too spicy and didn’t enjoy the strange variety of ingredients on the baguette. It’s a tricky thing to buy food for others. Sorry Janice.

 

27 January - Sdao – Moung Ruessei – 68 km

The monks were still chanting prayers when we departed. Ladies were selling pork pau outside the temple gates in a typical Cambodian setting under a huge tree. I’d the feeling the entire community came to watch two “farangs” having breakfast. With dust swirling, our path continued along a dirt track past naked-neck chickens and bare-bum kids playing in the dirt.

While overtaken by carts carrying monks under yellow umbrellas, I realised how foreign we must seem to rural Cambodians. The cultural gap felt even more significant as I watched elderly ladies shuffling along the dusty track. In contrast, others sold beef feet or carried massive piles of hay on their heads to wooden carts. Our path was highly rural and offered sights of houses on stilts where cattle were kept in the front yard.

Having had enough of the jarring and dust, we headed to the paved road passing carts laden with pottery. Janice felt unwell and, covered in dust, Moung Ruessei came as a welcome sight. The highly comfortable Kheang Oudom Hotel sported a swimming pool and all the necessary facilities. We wasted no time dipping our dusty bodies in their pristine pool. I smiled at our fortune, sipping a Cambodian beer on one of their deckchairs.

The next day was also spent in Moung Ruessei.

I was dragging Janice to Phnom Penh to meet Megan and Erma for a month-long cycle ride around Cambodia. Both Megan and Erma hailed from Namibia. I couldn’t imagine two more contrasting countries! Namibia is a desert and the driest country in Sub-Saharan Africa, whereas Cambodia has a tropical climate. Namibia measures 825,419 square kilometres and has a population of 2,620,000. On the other hand, Cambodia only measures 189,000 square kilometres with a population of 16,382,000. In addition, the average rainfall in Phnom Penh is 1,407 mm per year, whereas Windhoek has a mere 370 mm. Megan is a talented photographer (see https://www.24atlantic.com), and Erma a pharmacist and avid hiker.

 

29-30 January - Moung Ruessei – Pursat – 62 km

A highway ran to Pursat, which didn’t make exciting riding. Janice’s backside needed a rest and the paved road made more comfortable cycling than the rutted dirt track. Nothing of interest happened along the way and we soon arrived in Pursat, capital of Pusat province. Janice once again picked up the tab for the room. A short walk led to a lively market housing a warren of covered stalls.

An additional day was spent in easy-going Pursat as Janice felt unusually tired. Pursat is an old railway town but, visiting the old railway station, we found it demolished. Later we returned to the market where the hunt was on to find cooler clothes suitable for cycling, not an easy task in Cambodia, where people are tiny. There wasn’t significantly more to do in Pusat but eat. Although several interesting restaurants and street vendors were scattered about, ordering remained problematic as our lack of Khmer and their lack of English made communication a tad difficult. Still, that’s what makes travelling so interesting.

 

31 January - Phnom Penh

Being out of time I believed it best to take the bus to Phnom Penh. I wanted to get there before Megan and Erma arrived. A room at the Golden Boat Guest House was our abode of choice. Although not the cleanest of places, the room was reasonably priced at $15.

We trundled to the waterfront in the cooler evening air and later met up with friends Dan, Chop and Teressa for a beer. It’s always a pleasure seeing them and an enjoyable evening was spent in their company.

The following day was spent wandering about town, not doing a great deal apart from visiting the central market and searching for a bike shop where Janice wanted to purchase an inner tube.

 

1 February - Phnom Penh

Jogging along the riverfront is thoroughly enjoyable when in Phnom Penh. The promenade makes a perfect running route, as it comes with grand vistas of the river as well as a sunrise. Our amble to the supermarket necessitated weaving our way through bumper-to-bumper traffic, and one can only stand in awe of drivers’ patience. Walking in the road, trying our level best not to get knocked down, was more doable than the pavement. The pavement was taken up by mobile carts, motorbikes and baguette vendors. The baguette remains a favourite in Cambodia.

Remarkably, in such chaos, it’s possible to round a corner and find a peaceful temple amidst extensive grounds and old trees. By evening, the sun set over the city, monks returned to the monastery, pigeons flew home in a golden sky, and ferries carried passengers to the opposite side of the Mekong River. Sitting on a low wall overlooking the river, we watched as a multitude of boats took visitors on a sunset cruise. Then off to the night market where a considerable selection from which to choose awaited us.

CYCLE TOURING THAILAND (18.4) - EN ROUTE TO CAMBODIA - JANICE - 2019

 

THAILAND (18.4)
334 Km – 5 Days
18 January – 24 January 2019

MAP

PHOTOS

 

18-20 January - Jomtien – Phale Beach – 60 km

Janice landed at Bangkok Airport following a mega long flight from South Africa to Thailand. I met her at the airport and the two of us hopped on a bus to Jomtien where one could kick back, eat noodle soup on the beach and drink smoothies from the night market.

After three days of organising bikes and panniers, Janice and I finally set out in the direction of Cambodia, where the plan was to meet Erma and Megan for a month-long cycle around Cambodia.

Cycle touring comes with a kaleidoscope of colours, sounds, smells and sights. This day was no different, and I thought it overwhelming for a person on their first day of riding. Even though our ride was only 60 kilometres, our route was filled with an abundance of interesting sights. The first stop was at Ban Chak Ngaeo.

Ban Chak Ngaeo is a community of Thai Chinese who still maintain their traditional lifestyle. The tiny settlement is adorned with red lanterns and comes with an abundance of old, wooden shophouses. Next was the enormous Wat Yansangwararam temple complex, set in a vast park, housing several buildings of vastly different architectural styles, well-kept gardens, and a large lake giving the area a peaceful vibe.

From there, minor roads led toward the coast where we settled for Phale Beach. A guest house right on the ocean offered a place where one could sit, wriggling your toes in the sand. No time was wasted dipping into the lukewarm water of the Gulf of Thailand. At sunset, a walk along the beach revealed fishermen preparing boats for their night at sea. Afterwards, a restaurant on the sand provided an excellent meal and a marvellous way to end our first day of the trip. The food was delicious, and we sat watching the moon rise over the ocean. Well done to Janice who did amazingly well on her first day of riding.

 

21 January - Phale Beach – Ban Phe – 60 km

Following an early morning swim, the route headed along the coast and through the Map Ta Phut Industrial Estate. The estate is Thailand’s largest industrial area and the world’s eighth-largest petrochemical hub. The day mainly consisted of riding past long stretches of idyllic beaches with practically no one in sight. Coconut juice stops were aplenty and we sat watching the ocean, eagerly digging out the soft coconut flesh inside.

Rayong was reached around midday but, being early, we continued until reaching the coastal settlement of Ban Phe. Ban Phe had heaps of accommodation as it’s the jumping-off point to Ko Samet.

The settlement is a major hub for processing seafood, primarily fish sauce and fishing boats were anchored three to four deep along the many piers. At sunset a meander led to the dock where boats carted people to and from the nearby islands. Unfortunately, Janice came down with a cold and didn’t feel well, and we thought it best to make it an early evening.

 

22 January - Ban Phe – Kung Witman Beach – 70 km

Like the previous day, our path continued along the coast. The ride was lovely as it stuck close to the ocean for the best part of the morning. It took us across bridges with scenes of numerous brightly coloured fishing boats anchored along the banks. The surprising part was finding a dedicated bicycle lane virtually the entire way.

Eventually, picturesque Kung Wiman Beach signalled the end of the day’s ride. Kung Wiman is a one-lane fishing village sporting accommodation across the road from the ocean. We’d barely offloaded our panniers before drifting in the lukewarm waters of the Gulf of Thailand. Eating from a beachside eatery, the sunset made an almighty impressive display.

 

23 January - Kung Wiman Beach – Chanthaburi – 61 km

In the morning, I jogged along the ocean, a route that took me over two small hills to a lookout and then onto a tiny fishing hamlet. Returning, Janice was already packed and my run caused a late departure. Still, it became another marvellous day of bicycle touring as the road followed the coast past fish farms and more of Thailand’s idyllic beaches. Shortly after our breakfast stop, we met Kim, a cycle tourer I met on Facebook. Kim was heading in the opposite direction and after chatting for a while each headed off in our respective directions.

Janice and I continued to Chanthaburi where King Taksin rallied his troops at the back of the fall of Ayutthaya. En route, a bike shop fitted mirrors on our bicycles, a far safer way to travel. On crossing the Chanthaburi River, the River Guesthouse caught our eye. The place was reasonably priced and made a perfect spot to overnight. An amble to the night market ran via Sri Chan Road, known as Gem Road due to its lively gem and jewellery trade. The night market didn’t disappoint either and we found an abundance of food vendors from which to choose.

 

24 January - Chantaburi – Ban Phakkat – 83 km

Leaving Chanthaburi via the Historic Market, the oldest part of the city was highly interesting. Our route led along the narrow lanes, and it felt like we were transported back in time. We pedalled past old wooden shophouses, red Chinese lanterns and vendors selling fascinating eats.

It didn’t take long until finding ourselves on a rural road heading toward Khao Khitchakut National Park and the Khao Bunjob Waterfall. The way to the waterfall was far hillier than anticipated but it remained a beautiful and peaceful area. Searching for the waterfall, a Buddhist temple and a paved road were spotted on the opposite bank of the small river. Instead of retracing our steps, it made sense to look for a way across. A short saunter upstream revealed a path through the forest as well as a suspension bridge. The shortcut meant dragging, pushing and pulling the bicycles through the woods and across the suspension bridge. On the opposite bank, and to our delight, was a far easier way and we freewheeled to our original path.

However, the main road took us over a reasonably steep pass. Still, at a slow and steady pace, almost anything is possible. Shortly afterwards, a road turned off in the direction of the Ban Phakkat border. Cycling all those hills, I was eager to give Janice more uplifting news and mentioned that the road to Bam Phakkat would be more level apart from a few small humps. Janice, later, claimed this camel had at least 12 huge humps!

Ban Phakkat is a relatively low-key border crossing, and we were pleased to find a bungalow at the town entrance at 400 THB. The route was challenging, and Janice did exceptionally well to make it up and over those hills and to Phakkat.