Janice
& Chris Cycle Touring Southeast AsiaThailand (14.1)- Laos (7)- Thailand (15)2
422 Km – 51 Days11
February - 2 April 2018
MAP
PHOTOS - THAILAND (15)
PHOTOS - LAOS (7)
PHOTOS - THAILAND (14.1)
THAILAND
(14.1)
825 Km
– 19 Days
Bangkok
I
was excited to meet Janice and Chris, who arrived stiff and puffy-eyed after a
24-hour long-haul flight from Cape Town, South Africa. We wasted no time investigating
Khao San Road where we drank a few beers and ate a few bugs. Chris and I indeed
ate cricket, frog, silkworm and grasshopper; all served with a spray of soy
sauce and a dash of pepper. For Janice, Bangkok was familiar territory, and
Chris enjoyed the madness of Banglampu while strolling the crowded pedestrian
lanes, nibbling from mobile carts.
Bangkok
The
morning was spent reassembling bicycles. Unfortunately, our guesthouse was
closing at the end of the month, meaning Janice and Chris couldn’t leave their
bike boxes there, and we searched for alternative accommodation. The evening
was spent doing a budget “sunset cruise” on the River Phraya, which involved catching the late ferry to its final
destination and returning on the last boat. All at 30 THB. Luckily, the weather
was good and we were blessed with a lovely sunset. After snacking on a few
nibbles from the night market, we settled in for our nightly beer.
Bangkok
We
were up at 6 a.m. and set off to uncover Bangkok. We witnessed barefoot monks
collecting food and viewed the sunrise over the Royal Palace. I considered it a
privilege walking the city’s ancient monuments without a soul in sight.
On
returning to our abode, a place was uncovered to store Janice and Chris’s bike
boxes and we took a test ride to see if the bicycles survived the flight. Weaving
through the hectic Bangkok traffic was quite challenging, and better to return to
our guesthouse and explore the rest of Bangkok by river ferry or on foot. The
ferry to China Town made it convenient to pop into the hugely impressive and
newly renovated Temple of Dawn.
Bangkok
– Ayutthaya – 50 km (& 30 km by taxi)
Taxi4bikes
picked us up and took us 30 kilometres outside the city in the direction of
Ayutthaya. I was impressed as the driver phoned to let us know he was stuck in
traffic and was 30 minutes late. On his arrival, he had a three-bike roof rack,
and even though the front wheels had to be removed, he had three wheel covers.
The taxi dropped us at Rangsit Station, making an effortless escape from the
city. After loading the bikes (with help from countless onlookers and helpers),
we said, “Bye-bye, Bangkok”.
It
took no time at all to find minor roads. Rangsit Station to Ayutthaya was a
short and lovely rural ride through typical Thai countryside. Our route
followed the Prem Prachakon canal past temples, simple eateries, and canal-side
communities. People went about their daily lives, fishing, preparing food,
worshipping and working in paddy fields. The canal ride made an enjoyable amble,
past bright green rice fields, banana plantations and ancient ruins.
On
reaching Ayutthaya, a lovely, old, wooden schoolhouse building on extensive grounds became home that night.
Following a quick shower, all were hungry and we set out to a pavement restaurant
to have well-deserved supper and beer.
Ayutthaya
– 26 km
The next
day was spent exploring Ayutthaya’s ruins. Once the capital of the Kingdom of Siam, Ayutthaya was founded around
1350. With its ideal location between China, India and the Malay Archipelago, Ayutthaya
was Asia’s trading capital. By 1700, it had become the largest city in the
world with a total of one million inhabitants. However, all this ended abruptly
when Burmese forces invaded Ayutthaya in 1767 and almost completely raised the
city to the ground. These ruins are today a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Ayutthaya
– Lopburi – 68 km
We
were determined to leave as early as possible to beat the heat and were on our
way shortly past 7 a.m. I was thrilled with our early start, as the light was gorgeous,
and it was pleasant to be out in the cooler
morning air. Soon after departing, we landed on a rural road and cycled past an
elephant kraal. I thought it sad to see those lovely animals chained and
domesticated. I understand only too well it’s a practice that has been part of
Thai culture for millenniums. Still, I wasn’t too fond of it.
The
route took us along farm roads. Although early, the weather was already sweltering,
making challenging riding, especially if one comes from a cooler climate. Finally,
our path became far too busy and it was better to turn off onto a minor road. The way was so small it turned into a narrow dirt track,
but remained a lovely ride past bright green rice paddies, fish drying
in the sun and giant Buddha statues.
Luckily, a paved road made comfortable pedalling into Lopburi, arriving
at around 14h00. Chinese New Year was being celebrated and we strolled through crowded
streets in the company of thousands of others, enjoying the festivities. Virtually
everyone was beautifully dressed in traditional Thai costumes, and historic
ruins were lit and open to the public. Trees were covered in fairy lights, and cultural
shows, music and fireworks entertained visitors.
Lopburi
The forecast predicted a high of 38˚C and a decision was made to stay put. The oppressing heat was exhausting
and as 38˚C was hot by anyone’s standards,
we considered it best to spend a day in Lopburi and enjoy the New Year’s
celebrations. Typical Thai hats were purchased to keep the anticipated heat at
bay.
Lopburi is an ancient town offering an abundance of old ruins,
all within easy walking distance. The old city is today occupied by ordinary
Thai life and a gang of monkeys. A visit to the Monkey Temple left me in awe of
how similar monkey family life is to our own, and
I could spend hours observing them.
Lopburi – Pasak Jolasit Dam – 65 km
We got underway relatively early to maximise the cooler morning
air. I say “cooler” as temperatures weren’t a great deal cooler in the morning than later in the day. A
stop at an organic market revealed exotic
food and herbal products. Again, it turned out scorching. It took stopping as often
as possible to fill our water bottles, which made meeting interesting people.
Towards day’s end, we slinked
into Pasak Jolasit dam. The dam was a popular recreational area offering
camping as well as food. Camping spots were right on the dam under trees, and
featured grand vistas and a short walk to ablutions. After sunset, a short stroll
brought us to a restaurant situated outside the gate of the recreation area where
a delicious meal was ordered without speaking or reading a word of Thai.
Pasak Chonlasit Dam – Wat Nong Bong – 67 km
Waking up next to the dam was a joy, as a tad of cool air came
off the water. Breakfast was coffee and oats while watching the sun trying to
shine through the ever-present haze (highly likely from burning sugarcane
fields).
A
pleasurable ride led along the opposite side of the dam, past massive areas of
sugarcane fields as well as cassava plantations. Our first stop was at the dam’s
White Buddha, where we watched the Buddha’s circumambulation. At first, I thought
it strange to do but then realised that circumambulation of temples, deity images, or
other holy objects isn’t only part of Buddhism but present in other religions
including Christianity, Judaism and Islam.
Our
ride passed workers in the process of cutting sugarcane and I wondered what all was hiding in those fields; rats, snakes
and numerous other things, I guessed. On reaching Wangkanlueang waterfall, a
watermelon made a great picnic while soaking our feet in the stream and enjoying
the relative coolness of the picnic area. Soon, the time came to saddle up our
mobile homes and resume our ride.
Janice had the first flat tyre of the trip, which took us surprisingly
long to fix. Soon after, we started looking out where to pitch our tents. Wat
Nong Bong (a Buddhist temple) came at the right time, and a small store across
the road provided enough ingredients to concoct supper. The temple was welcoming,
and monks pointed us to the Wat (temple) where they offered sleeping mats and
requested that we speak to the students about our trip in the morning. Janice
was appointed to talk, and Chris cooked
our instant noodles on his small stove, which we ate while listening to monks
chanting prayers.
Wat Nong Bong – Wat Ban Na Samakee – 50 km
Breakfast was courtesy of the monks; a simple but delicious dish
of fried noodles. Janice (as requested the previous night) spent a few minutes talking to the school kids about our
trip. Afterwards, we attempted to adjust the disc brakes on Janice’s bicycle.
None of us knew anything concerning disc brakes, but after YouTubing, we managed
to free the wheel and were on our way.
Our way took us north and, as
the previous day, it went past endless sugarcane plantations. Being harvesting
time, we encountered innumerable large trucks piled high with sugarcane en
route to the market. The initial plan was to cycle 34 kilometres to the Si Chep
Historical Park and then continue a further 30 or 40 kilometres. However,
Chris, found the heat unbearable. So we decided to hang around in the shade at
the historical park until 16h00. An enjoyable way to spend an afternoon. Afterwards,
Chris still had enough energy to cycle an additional 10 kilometres to the
village temple. The friendly monks allowed sleeping at the Wat and even provided
mattresses and pillows. Nevertheless, the temple dogs were not so welcoming.
Our nightly camping spot mainly depended on where Chris could
find ice. He needed to keep his diabetic medication at an optimum temperature and needed ice.
Wat Ban Na Samakee – Wat Sap Ta Khaek - 50 km
Our alarm went off at five, and by the time it got light, all
were ready to roll. So, following waving the monks goodbye, we rode along, with
the sun peeking through a smoky haze.
Our path ran through farmlands, passing villagers cutting
sugarcane by hand and dodging muddy puddles created
by the previous night’s rain. Finally, our little path turned into a
dirt track, shared with two-wheel tractors, trucks, and monks collecting food. It
became blistering; mercifully, a nearby temple permitted camping.
The temple was basic, offering only one dusty undercover area
and a massive dirt yard swept continuously. The sweeping caused more dust than
the few leaves gathered were worth. Nevertheless, cleaning the undercover area kept us occupied. After dusting
the Buddha, and lighting a few incense sticks, we settled in.
Wat Sap Ta Khaek – Ban Non-Sa-at
– 50 km
The first 15 kilometres of our route went straight up a mountain, making a slow process while edging higher
and higher. Then, after roughly 10 kilometres, an even smaller path turned off,
avoiding crossing an even higher pass. Still, it remained a pushing-up-the-hill
day. Nevertheless, the ride remained a stunning one along country lanes. We passed
tiny villages where people stared slack-jawed, as we made our way down the pass
along muddy tracks.
The area was a typical Thailand rural area consisting of small
settlements featuring basic wooden houses
on stilts. Families were swinging in hammocks underneath their homes as kids
ran amok, and livestock had the run of the farm. Unfortunately, our muddy path spat
us out on a paved road offering stunning distant scenery. The higher mountains
were visible to our right, and we were grateful our chosen route avoided them.
At around 15h00, tiny Ban Non-Sa-At,
which had a temple to spend the night, made effortless camping. Like the
previous night, a half-covered hall needed sweeping and the Buddha a tad of
dusting. I ate noodle soup bought earlier,
and Janice, not a big eater, had a can of sardines and Chris ate cup noodles to
which he added a can of sardines.
Ban Non-Sa-at – Wat Song Sila – 50 km
Our early morning wake-up call was getting to us as none heard
the alarm and it was thus way past five before we woke up. Rain was bucketing
down, allowing plenty of time to pack up and be on our way by 7h00. Donning plastic
raincoats, we got underway in a drizzle.
The day was again marred by humidity and heat which slowed the
pace considerably; mercifully, a slight breeze kept us cool. A cart provided a watermelon,
and the shop owner gave us a bag of bananas, which made an impromptu fruit
salad.
I didn’t think any foreigner had ever stayed overnight in Ban Huabua. Even the temple was abandoned.
Eventually, a monk pointed us to a wooden structure on stilts where one could
pitch a tent. The roadside restaurants were closed by then, and we’d to make do
with cup noodles.
Wat Song Sila – Ban Thaen - 66 km
The colder weather made a lovely but nippy early morning ride.
Chris was on fire and took off at a good pace with Janice and me in tow. The
early morning light made the colours pop, and rice paddies looked even greener
than previously. Lotus flowers reflected in muddy ponds as we biked past smoky,
early-morning food stalls. Butchers were selling meat on pavements and farmers carted long-eared cows to
the market.
Good time was made, stopping at regular intervals to fill our
water bottles. Around lunchtime, Chris had a quick nap after which we proceeded
to Ban Thaen, en route, stopping to drink
coconut juice. At Ban Thean’s temple, permission
to camp was sought from the chap sweeping the yard. He indicated he understood
and pointed us to an undercover area. It wasn’t entirely clear if this was
permission. After a lengthy wait, the head monk eventually appeared and gestured
we could camp.
A short walk revealed a small shop selling food. I bought soup but subsequently discovered it contained an unusual animal. The soup was bony but
delicious, but Thai food is always delicious. “Aroi mak-mak!” as they say in Thailand.
Ban Thaen - Khon Kaen – 60 km
Being a warm night, none of us used our tents, only our sleeping
mats. The mozzies didn’t bother us as a few mosquito coils were lit, and even
temple dogs kept their distance. One barely overslept at a temple as gongs were
sounded at first light, announcing it time to wake up. This got the temple dogs
howling, causing a racket that can wake even the deepest sleepers!
Saddling up was a speedy process as no tents had to be taken
down and, in the process, we witnessed a stunning sunrise. Chris was thankful
for the cooler morning air. Janice and I were
happy to take full advantage of the morning light to practice photography. A rural
road ran to Khon Kaen and the path twisted and turned through teeny hamlets where
water buffalo and cows were kept in the front yard. Being Sunday, village folk went
about their Sunday chores; doing necessary household maintenance, foraging, or
making charcoal.
The weather was boiling, and a conveniently located 7-Eleven
made an excellent rest stop. Then, onwards to Khon Kaen where a bicycle shop straightened
my front wheel that had a slight wobble. Once sorted, I paid the small fee of
20 Thai baht and we made our way into town where a hotel was a welcome sight after
all the camping.
Khon Khaen
The day was spent doing the usual rest day chores including
laundry, shopping for headlamps and returning to the bicycle shop to fit headset
extensions to Janice and Chris’s bikes. By evening, Chris made Cape Velvet
Liqueur. Thank you, Chris.
Khon Kaen – Ban Pa Kho Temple – 80 km
Before 7h00, we were on our way and
all felt fresh and energetic; as a result, we went too far and fast. Main roads never make for exciting riding but offer heaps
of facilities and fuel stations, which provide convenient food and ablutions. Roadside
vendors primarily sold bamboo crafts and furniture and I was amazed at the
strength of bamboo.
Ban Pa Kho Temple – Wat Pho Chum Pattanaram – 63 km
An uneventful ride took us from Ban Pa Kho Temple to Wat Pho
Chum Pattanaram where camping was again at a temple. It must be mentioned that
one never passes through these rural areas unnoticed. It appeared a rarity to
see foreigners on bicycles. Hence, we were observed with great interest.
Wat Pho Chum Pattanaram – Nong Khai – 50 km
A rural road made it pleasurable to cycle to Nong Khai where we
overnighted at a guesthouse. Nong Khai is located on the banks of the Mekong
River at a point where the Mekong forms the border between Thailand and Laos
and, therefore, our last night in Thailand prior to crossing the border to Laos.
As always, the sunset was a stunning sight.
LAOS (7)
486 Km – 11 Days
Nong Khai, Thailand – Vientiane, Laos – 33 km
Ten kilometres from Nong Khai was the immigration office and the
Friendship Bridge, via which one could cycle across the Mekong River into Laos.
However, at the Laos immigration office, border officials pointed out that neither
Chris nor Janice was given an exit stamp. The reason was their Thailand departure
cards weren’t filled in, and the officer requested them to complete the forms,
which they did, and then departed! Fortunately, the return trip across the
river was short, and they received their exit stamps.
The short ride into laidback Vientiane allowed enough time to
explore, find new SIM cards, an ATM and food. Supper was at one of the countless
restaurants along the riverfront. Even at 9 p.m., the weather was boiling. The weather forecast for the coming days
didn’t look suitable for biking, varying
between 36˚C and 38˚C. Still, Janice and Chris managed the heat like pros, and
I didn’t think it a big problem as long as days were kept short.
Vientiane – Dokphet Guesthouse, Hai – 73 km
As predicted, the day was a scorcher that
led to an early departure, first stopping at the Patuxay Monument,
Vientiane’s Arc de Triomphe, or Victory Monument. I love the story behind it
and how the memorial was built using cement donated by the USA intended for the
construction of a new airport; hence, it’s now referred to as the “vertical
runway”.
Our second stop was at Pha That Luang, a 16th-century
Buddhist stupa believed to have been built on the remains of a 13th-century
Khmer temple, which was built on a 3rd-century temple. The reclining
Buddha represents the historical Buddha during his last illness, about to enter
parinirvana.
Our planned third stop was at the Buddha Park, but the route was
in such poor condition, cycling was no
pleasure and we decided it best to give it a miss and follow the main road. Nevertheless, Chris did remarkably well and cycled to our destination
without having lunch or a nap. Lunch was outside our guesthouse where a
rudimentary restaurant served noodle soup. In the process, generous Cambodians from
Vientiane kept buying beer. We soon had to thank them unless we later wanted to
crawl to our abode.
Dokphet Guesthouse – Saunmaiket Hongxaikham Guesthouse - 65 km
The forecast indicated temperatures between 36˚C and 38˚C, and we
were up and away even earlier than usual. Our first stop was around 15
kilometres, and roughly four kilometres later, Janice discovered she had left
her reading glasses behind. Being a short distance from our previous stop,
Chris and I proceeded as Janice retraced our steps to find her spectacles.
After riding 15 kilometres, there was still no sign of Janice
and we, subsequently, learned she couldn’t locate our rest stop, and in the
process, biked all the way to the morning’s start! Chris and I ambled along,
hoping she would catch up. As agreed, we meandered until 13h00, booked into a guesthouse
and waited until Janice arrived. It became a rather long day for her – 100
kilometres! Well done, Janice, on your first 100 kilometres and first solo ride!
Your rock, girl!
Saunmaiket Hongxaikham Guesthouse – Pakkading
Buddhist temple – 60 km
The weather was surprisingly cold in the early morning, and I stopped to buy a long-sleeved sweater. Often
restaurants had a rail with clothing outside, but
I was unsure if the clothes were for sale or laundry. Also, with only cycling
half days, arrival at our destination was usually early and slightly awkward to
seek permission to camp at such an early hour.
Monks at the Pakkading Buddhist temple pointed us to a room we
first scrub clean. Even though the building appeared new, the bathroom needed a
good scrubbing. No sooner had we sat down, than
the head monk arrived, indicating to us to move to the basement. The basement
area was a substantial, tiled room that also needed cleaning. It seemed a place
where the down-and-out overnighted or one of the monks had a drug problem.
Pakkading Buddhist temple - Somejainuek Guesthouse – 62 km
Not even the monks were awake when we departed our sparkling
clean room shortly past 6h00. The Pakkading Bridge crossed the Nam Kading River,
one of the main tributaries of the Mekong. This Russian-built bridge is where
truck drivers often stop to light a cigarette before crossing the bridge and
then throw the lit cigarette in the Nam Kading River. The reason was to appease
the water serpent believed to live in the river mouth.
At first, the temperature was mild and the day came with a good
tailwind. Sadly, these favourable conditions didn’t last and it soon became
boiling, this time with a headwind. Finally, around 13h00, a roadside
guesthouse appeared sporting a convenient restaurant that made a perfect
overnight stop.
Somejainuek Guesthouse – Roadside Guesthouse – 64 km
Packing up started at 5h00, making departing at first light
possible. The road was gently undulating, and made pleasurable biking, past
friendly kids calling, “Sabaidi falang!” Several
were curious and others seemed cautious and kept their distance. Roadside shops
provided water and snacks and sugarcane juice. A fascinating roadside market
sold dung beetle balls with the larva inside and grilled and raw rats and
squirrels. Besides the usual crabs, eels and other fishy things, live lizards
by the bag-full and other exotic (or illegal) animals were sold.
Roadside Guesthouse – Thakhek – 27 km
Even though a short day, we stuck to our early departure to make
the best of the cooler temperatures. The Great
Wall of Laos, or the Kamphaeng Nyak Wall, made an interesting detour. Although
a geological phenomenon, its physical resemblance to a human-made structure has
given rise to various Laos myths. A few claimed the wall was built as a defence
system and others argued the wall was made to stem floodwaters.
Close to Thakhek, a path turned off onto a minor road and led
past small communities on the Mekong. The
Laos baguette, or Khao Jee, is
one of Laos’s most famous street foods, stuffed with salad, pate, chilli paste
and cold meats. The baguette is usually warmed on coals, making a crispy and
delightful snack. There was no better place to eat it than right there, on the
pavement.
A short cycling distance made an early arrival in Thakhek where
the Souksomboun Hotel, situated on the banks of the
Mekong River, provided perfect accommodation. The place was a cyclist’s
dream and featured outside motel-style rooms, as one could wheel the bikes
right in.
The next day was a rest day, and a tuk-tuk ride brought us to
nearby caves. A leisurely morning was spent investigating these caves and we
were home by 14h00.
I know I’ve written many times about the Secret War in Laos.
However, still seeing people missing limbs, the reality of this war becomes
real. I quote from Legaciesofwar.org:
“From 1964 to 1973, the U.S. dropped more than two million tons
of ordnance on Laos during 580,000 bombing missions—equal to a planeload of
bombs every 8 minutes, 24 hours a day, for nine years – making Laos the most
heavily bombed country per capita in history. Up to a third of the bombs
dropped didn’t explode, leaving Laos contaminated with vast quantities of
unexploded ordnance (UXO).”
Thakhek – Savannakhet – 102 km
From Thakhek we’d all intentions to do our usual 60/65
kilometres. However, the river trail
turned out remarkably interesting and passed numerous small fishing settlements
on the Mekong. On reaching our target distance, no one seemed interested in
stopping, and by midday, I assumed we’d done enough for the day, but Janice and
Chris were keen to push on. A short while further a sign pointed to a shortcut.
Albeit rough and potholed, the route was exciting, making for adventurous riding.
The final stretch required pushing hard to reach Savannakhét
before dark. Everyone did exceptionally well, and I was happy to reach our
destination safely. Following a shower, our first stop was the Night Market,
which wasn’t operating. There was, nevertheless, a dim sum stand, where we’d
our fair share. All in all, a lovely day of bicycle touring.
11-12 March - Savannakhét
A well-deserved rest day was spent in Savannakhét, with its
tree-lined streets and an ensemble of old, crumbling French colonial buildings.
We intended to cross the border into Thailand via the Friendship Bridge on the
outskirts of Savannakhét. Still, I first had to apply for a Thai visa. Being
Sunday, I could only do it the next morning.
I handed in my application, but could only collect it the next day.
The 12th was Chris’s birthday, and we visited the small museum with
interesting artefacts collected in the vicinity of Savannakhét. Afterwards, a relaxed
cycle ride ran to a nearby lake. The lake provided a restaurant on a wooden
platform on stilts over a lake. Food was served sitting on a woven mat, not a comfortable
arrangement for Europeans, but Chris never complained. Finally, we returned along
the potholed road, making it to our digs shortly before dark.
THAILAND (15)
1111 km – 21 days
Savannakhet – Mukdahan – 15 km
Checkout from our guesthouse was at 12h00, but I could only pick
up my visa at 14h00; an excellent excuse to enjoy coffee and cake. Afterwards, I
cycled to the consulate and Janice and Chris proceeded to the border. Biking
across the Friendship Bridge wasn’t allowed, and bus tickets were sold to ferry
people across. Two buses came past, but none had space for the bicycles. We
were first in line when the third one came and could load two bikes. I chose to
make a break for the Thai border, and as the bus left, I sped across the bridge
to the great protest of border officials. Pretending not to hear I made it to
the other side without being chased down.
Once checked in at the Thailand immigration, a short and enjoyable
ride continued to Mukdahan. A Buddhist temple provided a place to sleep, and
food was from the many available options.
Mukdahan – Khemmarat – 91 km
Well-rested we were off at a good pace, on a route close to the
Mekong River. Though hilly at times, it remained comfortable riding to
Khemmarat.
Temples made convenient camping, and at Wat Pho, the monks didn’t
only allow camping but promptly pointed us to a lovely room. The room even had
an air-conditioning unit as well as a bunch of mats and pillows. Comfortably ensconced
in our abode, the heavens opened up, and it didn’t take long to discover why
the mats were all piled up in one corner. The roof wasn’t only leaking, but
water came pouring in as if through a misplaced gutter. A mad scramble occurred
to get all electronics out of harm’s way and move mats and cushions to the room’s
driest corner. Thank goodness, rain in Southeast Asia came quick and hard and
soon the storm abated.
Khemmarat – Ban Pakhachomson - Ubon Ratchathani – 42 km &
105 km by bus
As was our habit by then, we surfaced at 5h00 and got going at
around 6h30, along a pleasant rural road
past tiny hamlets. Again, I was in awe of how peaceful these communities were.
Cattle grazed in backyards, kids travelled to school on little bicycles, women
sold snacks and men herded goats and cattle.
The map indicated a slightly hilly
day, which was no exaggeration. Reaching Ban Pakhachomson,
we called it quits and instead took a bus to Ubon. Once in Ubon, a six-kilometre
cycle took us into the city centre. We tried to sleep at two of the city
temples, but without success. It’s far more challenging to get permission to
sleep at temples in big cities,
especially in the presence of a whole plethora of guesthouses and hotels.
Eventually, Ubon Hotel, right across from the night market, made
a perfect overnight stop. The hotel wasn’t only conveniently located but one of
only a few where water pressure was (nearly) high enough to blow one out the
door.
Ubon Ratchathani – Si Sa Khet
– 86 km
We were well entrenched in the familiar routine of loading the
bikes, cycling, stopping to fill our bottles or getting a bite to eat, all
while getting a good few stares.
This day was no different and became a lovely day pedalling
along minor roads via rural communities. On arrival in Si Sa Khet, we couldn’t sleep at the city temple but discovered
camping at a secluded temple almost six kilometres out of town.
Si Sa Khet – Khun Han - 78 km
The overcast weather made it enjoyable to cycle. Scrawny cows
with long ears were grazing in dry rice fields, and
smoke billowed from charcoal pits as our route veered south to Khun Han.
On arrival at Khun Han, we headed straight to a temple known as
Wat Pa Maha Chedi Kaew (The Temple of a Million Bottles). This unique temple was
made of over 1.5 million Heineken and Chang beer bottles. The original temple
was built in 1984, but the monks expanded the site. During our visit, there were
over 20 structures, including sleeping bungalows and ablutions. Afterwards, a nearby
lake appeared an excellent place to camp. Regrettably, it wasn’t suitable, and we
sought out the town temple where camping was allowed under a covered area.
Khun Han – Surin – 120 km
The following day we rolled into Surin shortly before 6 p.m after
biking the mega distance of 120 kilometres. Needless to say, there were a few
sore backsides. Saying that, I think all
was chuffed for cycling such a long distance. After a quick shower, the time came
to have our usual Chang beer (or two) and dim- sum from a stall outside our
hotel entrance.
Surin
The next day was a well-deserved rest day in Surin, as all had housekeeping
to do.
Surin – Buri Ram Forest Park – 60 km
What a lovely day of riding it turned out to be. Our path
followed country lanes through rural areas where cattle had the right of way
and were kept in front yards or under stilted homes. Old ladies worked in fields
as men collected animal feed. We pedalled past rice fields and small communities
where the main junction was a well. Unfortunately, the road abruptly ended at a
railway line, resulting in us carrying our bikes across, which was not an easy
task. Basic camping was provided in Buri Ram Forest Park, and tents could be
pitched under a covered area. Although there was no electricity, there were
clean toilets where one could wash.
Buri Ram Forest Park consisted of an extinct volcano that rose 265
metres and was home to Devil Yoni Trees found only in volcanic areas. Chris
kept the fort while Janice and I walked to the top and came down the 297 Naga Raj
steps, featuring Buddha statues in various poses.
Buri Ram Forest Park – Ban Khok Mueang – 66 km
We biked out of Buri Ram on a heavily overcast morning, making effortless
biking and a fun day of cycling. A short detour led to Phanom Rung Historical
Park, and being up a steep hill, I offloaded my panniers at a shop at the start
of the climb and flew past Janice and Chris. They were both labouring up the
hill laden with panniers. They weren’t amused.
A good laugh was had at the silly situation as we strolled around
ruins dating back a thousand years. The park was situated atop an extinct volcano
400 metres above sea level. It’s assumed the buildings were constructed between
the 10th - 13th centuries as a Hindu shrine dedicated to
Shiva.
Karma almost got me as it became cold up on the hill, and I didn’t
have anything warm. Phew! I nearly had to ask to borrow a sweater.
Once back to our original route, a five-kilometre ride brought
us to Ban Khok Mueang where Wat Prasat Buraparam made easy camping. The
platform where we could pitch our tents first needed cleaning. Next, Janice and
I investigated the ancient Prasat Muang Tam. We’d the ruins all to ourselves as
all visitors had already departed. Hunger pangs soon drove us back, and we were
lucky to find an open noodle soup restaurant.
Ban Khok Mueang (Wat Prasat Buraparam) – Wat Mai Thai Thavorn –
65 km
Our packing up woke the temple dogs, which started barking
continuously. By the time monks began beating the gong, the dogs were in full
swing and went from barking to howling. What a racket!
Our early start made for a lovely morning ride. Plans were to
camp at Lam Nang Rong Dam, but we reached the dam too early and carried on to
Ta Phraya National Park. Once over the mountain, one could camp at the park,
but food carts were three kilometres further.
During the hunt for food, we uncovered not only food but also a
temple to camp. Wat Mai Thi Thavorn looked slightly forlorn, but monks pointed
us to a structure on the far side of the property. The hall was dirty and
dusty, and it took hours of sweeping and dusting, and after cleaning the Buddha
and lighting a few incense sticks, the place was transformed into a very usable area. The monks must’ve been impressed by
our efforts as they provided us with water, extension leads, and even toilet
paper! Before sunset, a quick cycle to the food market provided ample to eat
and drink.
Wat Mai Thai Thavorn – Aranya Prathet – 62 km
As was our habit by then, we were up at five and en route to our
next destination shortly past six. An overcast day and a tailwind made it pleasant riding into Aranya Prathet. A rest day
was planned as I broke a spoke that needed replacement. Aran Garden Hotel 1 was
well priced and incredibly convenient for bicycle
travellers. One could cycle straight into an undercover area.
Laundry services lined the main road. Following handing in our
clothes, time was spent catching up on a few outstanding matters before hitting
the streets for our evening meal.
Aranja Prathet – Khao Chakan Forest Park – 86 km
Our first stop of the day was the ruins of Prasat Khao Noi. The
ruins (a Hindu shrine) were situated on Khao Noi, a limestone hill. Initially, the sanctuary consisted of three
prangs, of which only the middle one remained at the time of our visit. One of
the lintels discovered here dates to the seventh century. Excavations revealed fascinating artefacts and a stone lintel with
inscriptions dating back to 637 AD. The lintel was, very likely, reused. On departing,
our path led through a Sunday market; unusual for the villagers and us.
We took to picking up seeds from various trees. Upon closer
inspection, they turned out quite fascinating, and each was unique. Certain ones
were light and fluffy, while others were sticky or thorny. Some seeds were
inside a solid shell that popped open with a tremendous bang and shot them a
fair distance away.
Eventually, we slinked into Khao Chakan Forest Park, featuring three
big limestone mountains and several caves. A steep flight of stairs took us to a
massive hole in the mountain, offering a magnificent view of the countryside.
The park would’ve been a great place to camp was it not for the thousands of
monkeys. In the process, we unearthed an extraordinary resort known as the Bus
Resort. It consisted of buses converted into air-con overnight accommodation, featuring
fridges and bathrooms.
Khao Chakan Forest Park –
Sronlai Homestay – 94 km
Once again, it turned out a fantastic
day of cycle touring. The path winded over the hills and through Khao Ang Rue
Nai Wildlife Sanctuary. Plenty of fresh elephant dung was spotted but, sadly,
no wild elephants, only mischievous monkeys. Once over the mountains, a good
descent led to the small settlement of Khlong Takao.
The plan was to camp on the opposite side of the dam, and our map
indicated a shortcut via the dam wall. Unfortunately, the dam wall was flooded,
making a significantly longer day than anticipated. Nevertheless, Sronlai
Homestay provided idyllic camping. As soon as the sun started heading towards
the horizon, we paddled out and had a peaceful paddle around the dam.
Sronlai Homestay – Phanat Nikhom – 76 km
The route to Phanat Nikhom was another fabulous day of riding as
country roads ran past rubber tree
plantations and farmers preparing paddy fields. Finally, atop a hill and after
scaling a near vertical flight of stairs, one could admire the landscape and a dimly
lit sanctuary sporting several dusty Buddha statues tucked away inside.
On cycling into Phanat Nikhom, a sign pointed to a weaving
market and factory. Time was spent admiring their remarkable work and the
world’s biggest hand-woven basket. Then, we went off to find accommodation at a
temple on the outskirts of town. The temple was a lively one revealing far too
many temple dogs. A few broom and feather
duster salesmen also pulled in overnight at the temple. They were exceptionally
well organised with sleeping mats, fans and cooking equipment.
Phatnat Nikhom – Chachoengsao
– 65 km
The night was a noisy affair, partly due to the dogs going
ballistic every time someone went to the toilet, and partly due to the Wat
being on a busy highway. The temple had extensive
grounds, and during the night trucks pulled in adding to the pandemonium. We
emerged to the revving of lorries, beating gongs, howling dogs, and the general
highway noise. Finally, we saddled up our iron horses, waved goodbye to the
feather duster salesmen and monks, and set out with temple dogs in tow. One
could only giggle at the madness of it all.
It took us precisely two kilometres before turning off and
finding a quiet rural road. Then, with a
sigh of relief, we pointed our bikes toward Chachoengsao
via minor roads. Unfortunately, our country lane
ended abruptly at roadworks. Still, a super-helpful farmer escorted us on his
motorbike via a path not indicated on the map.
Once in Chachoengsao, we
headed through this bustling city to the old market situated on the Bang Pakong
River banks. The market is believed over 100 years old. Sadly, the market is a
weekend one; still, we could wander about admiring the old wooden structures.
As is the custom, shop owners live above their shops, and were extremely
friendly, inviting us to sample their specialities. We searched for
accommodation after coffee at the little coffee shop overlooking the river.
Chachoengsao – Bangkok - by train
The previous night a choice was made to take the train into
Bangkok instead of cycling through the heavy traffic. There were various trains to pick from, and we could cycle to the
station at leisure. I had a flat tyre, and
as Janice and Chris were ready, they proceeded while I fixed the puncture. Upon
my arrival at the station, Janice and Chris were nowhere to be seen. Somehow,
they cycled to the bus station a kilometre north of the station. Eventually,
they made their way to the station, and we were on the train and into Bangkok.
A short six-kilometre ride from the Bangkok railway station brought
us to Banglamphu and the Bamboo Guesthouse, where Janice and Chris stowed their
bike boxes. Taking a train for the final stretch was unsatisfying. Still, the
traffic was far too horrendous to cycle into the city centre.
Bangkok
In the morning, a canal ferry ride took me to the city centre to
collect my new passport, only to find it was a South African public holiday. Afterwards,
I took a walk around the shops and eventually returned on foot to our
accommodation in Banglampu. Later, a short cycle brought me to Bok Bok Bike where
I handed in the bicycle to be serviced as well as to fit two new rims and a new
front fork. My front luggage rack was broken and held in place by cable ties; not
a very stable setup. A rack for a fork
with shocks was a difficult item to get
hold of and far less problematic to go for a fixed fork instead. As expected,
it all costed a pretty penny.
In the meantime, Janice and Chris packed their bicycles in the
boxes for their flight home; luckily, we still had a few days to explore
Bangkok and the surrounding area. That evening, we met with Tania and Rodd, an
amiable chap from New Zealand.
Bangkok
The previous night arrangements were made with Rodd to join us
for a day’s excursion to the Samut Songkhram Railway Market and the nearby
floating market of Amphawa. The day called for an early start to catch a taxi
to Wonwian Yai Station where we found the train in the middle of the road. The train
to Maha Chai station was only 10 THB and once at Maha Chai station, one had to
catch a ferry across the river as there was no train bridge; again, the fee was
a mere 3 THB. A short walk brought us to Ban Laem Station from where another 10
THB train ride took us to Samut Songkhram.
Samut Songkhram was home to the Railway Market, an extraordinary
place with a warren of stalls spilling over onto the rail tracks, leaving no
space for a train. Once a train approached, traders hurriedly picked up their
wares, providing barely enough room for the train to pass. Once the train had
passed, everything was returned, and trading resumed as usual. After a bowl of
noodle soup, we proceeded to the floating market by Songthaew (or Baht Bus).
We arrived at Amphawa Floating Market around midday and in the sweltering
heat. A 50 THB canal tour was the perfect option. The trip lasted over two
hours, and on returning the weather was far more bearable, and one could at
least walk around and sample the food at leisure. A minivan ride returned us to
Bangkok and the Gecko Bar for beer.
Bangkok
In the company of Rodd, a bus ride took us to the Chatuchak
Weekend Market. I spent more money than intended, but the shops were all fascinating and inviting. After hours of walking around,
sitting down for coffee was well deserved before catching the bus to
Banglamphu. As usual, the hunt to find a 70 THB beer was on and uncovered right
on Khao San Road where one could sit on tiny plastic chairs outside 7-Eleven
and watch the world go by.
Bangkok
Janice and I searched for a precision tool for her art projects
but could find none.
Meanwhile, I received a camera backpack as a thank you gift from
Janice. Of course, I was embarrassed by this immensely generous token of
appreciation, but simultaneously, over the moon with my present. I had it on my
back the rest of the day.
Then,
it was time for Janice and Chris to hail a taxi to the airport to catch their flight
to Cape Town, ending their bicycle tour of Southeast Asia.
