119 - 120 CYCLE TOURING - MALAYSIA & THAILAND

Solitude, Freedom, and the Quiet Rhythm of the Road

 

Malaysia (5.1) & Thailand (14)
3 January – 19 January 2018
1,296 Km – 17 Days

PHOTOS

FLIP-BOOK

VOICEOVER

PDF

Prelude 

I boxed up the bicycle Linda had ridden and sent it ahead to Pattaya. A simple shipment, on paper. I left cash with the bike shop owner, trusted his promise that Malaysia Post would come, and walked away with that peculiar traveller’s faith: the faith that what you can’t control will still, somehow, work out. Then I did what I always do when life becomes too loud inside me—I rode. Kuala Lumpur let me go more easily than expected, as if the city itself understood. Ahead was the north, the border, the ticking awareness of plans already reshuffled. And yet, with every kilometre, the road offered its oldest promise: keep moving, and the world will keep opening.

 

Malaysia
Riding North Through Memory and Change
644 Km – 7 Days

 

Kuala Lumpur to Selangor (87 km)

After bidding Linda farewell, I found myself in Kuala Lumpur with little reason to linger. I had to box up the bicycle she used and send it off to Pattaya, a task that felt oddly symbolic of moving on. The bike shop owner assured me he would call Malaysia Post to arrange a pickup, and I left the necessary cash with him, fingers crossed that everything would go smoothly.

Leaving Kuala Lumpur turned out to be surprisingly easy. I stumbled upon a dedicated bicycle path that whisked me away from the bustling city centre. These paths, complete with helpful road signs and hideaways for shelter during downpours, made my escape comfortable—well, nearly. A lane closure due to roadworks threw a wrench in my plans, but a wrong turn on my adventure led me onto a busy freeway. Heart racing, I was swept along in a torrent of speeding vehicles, and it took some time before I found an exit. The detour, however, led me past three tranquil golf courses, each one more serene than the last, before winding over hills and through oil palm plantations that offered breathtaking views.

Finally, my intended route reemerged, and I rolled into lovely Kuala Selangor, nestled on the banks of the Selangor River, famous for its mesmerising firefly displays. Once settled in, I ventured out in search of a new water heater and a new mug for my morning coffee. But as fate would have it, while sorting through my panniers, I found that my beloved cup was just hiding beneath the chaos. It seems organisation was not a skill I had mastered in more than ten years on the road.

 

Kuala Selangor to Teluk Intan – 105 km

This day was a delightful mix of backroads, vibrant butterflies, stunning blooms, and lovely encounters with locals, yet it was also riddled with bike troubles. Just after I set off, I noticed my crank arm needed tightening—a rather tricky job without the proper tools. Luckily, a local man came to my rescue. Though he didn’t have the right toolkit either, he ingeniously used a spoon handle! I adore people who can think on their feet!

Once the bike was back in working order, I veered onto an even narrower track, where the world opened up into quaint plantations and tiny settlements. At each stop, I saw a mosque and a few colourful Chinese and Hindu temples. Butterflies and dragonflies danced around me as I cycled on, and playful monkeys scampered across the path. When midday rolled around, I stumbled upon a small stall selling “Kari kambing” (curried goat), which instantly transported me back to my cycling days in Jamaica.

As I followed the winding banks of the Perak River—a stretch I had yet to explore—I had my first glimpse of Teluk Intan. Just as I rolled into town, my bicycle's rear hub chose that moment to surrender completely. Fortune smiled on me as I found myself right outside a hotel. After checking in, I hit the pavement again in search of a bike shop. Expecting little, I was pleasantly surprised when a friendly restaurant owner pointed me to a local motorbike repairman. Despite his best efforts, the hub was beyond repair, and I realised I needed a new wheel. In this small town, finding the right one would be a challenge, particularly since many places had already closed for the day. It was a bit of a wake-up call for me—I had let this issue linger far too long while I idly wandered through Kuala Lumpur for four days.

 

Teluk Intan

To sum things up (though I could write an epic), I woke up early, enjoyed a cup of coffee, and walked the 2.5 kilometres into town to locate the seemingly professional JTC Bike Centre. However, the shop was still shut, as staff only began to arrive around 10:00 AM. Upon closer inspection, it became clear that the shop was far too upscale for my ageing bicycle; they didn’t have the right hub or wheel for my needs.

As I made my way back to the motorbike shop, I found it still closed. The owner of the nearby mini-mart gestured to me, saying “1 jam,” leaving me puzzled—was that one hour or one o’clock?

While I waited, I treated myself to a delicious bowl of noodle soup and arranged for another night at the hotel, realising there was no way I’d be leaving town that day. Upon returning to the shop, I was thrilled to find that the motorbike shop owner had miraculously uncovered a new set of wheels—both front and rear—with rim, spokes, and hub included, since they only came as a pair. Without a need for words, we conducted our business, showing that sometimes, communication transcends language barriers. I paid the necessary expenses, feeling a rush of excitement as I prepared to hit the road again.

 

Teluk Intan to Taiping (130 km)

On a misty morning, I set off from Teluk Intan, feeling excited about the day ahead. As I crossed the Perak River, the playful monkeys caught my attention—some darted across my path while others snugly clutched their young in the treetops, clearly intrigued by my presence. The first stretch of my journey took me along the riverbanks, where beautiful lakes glistened and charming stilted homes painted a picturesque scene. Banana plantations and lush rice paddies flanked the road, their fields replenished from the previous night’s rain; I watched as dedicated farmers readied their rice crops, while flocks of graceful egrets lingered nearby, ever watchful for a meal.

Embracing a sense of adventure, I veered onto a shortcut that took me over rolling hills, past expansive oil palm plantations and into the Ulu Recreational Forest. The scenery was nothing short of breathtaking, with the swirling mist around the higher peaks adding a touch of mystery to the landscape. I felt a flutter of concern about a potential storm, but thankfully, it never arrived, and the daunting mountains I had initially feared were merely a striking backdrop to my delightful ride.

I arrived in Taiping well ahead of schedule and excitedly stumbled upon the most budget-friendly accommodation in town—the historic Peking Hotel, built in 1929. Although it showed signs of age, the building's intriguing past captivated me. It was once the residence of a prosperous Taiping businessman and later served as offices for the Taiping Rubber Association. During the turbulent years of the Japanese Occupation from 1941 to 1945, this very building became the headquarters for the infamous Kempeitai.

I was quite content with my quaint room on the ground floor, which conveniently allowed me to roll my bicycle right inside. After a refreshing shower and a quick wash of my clothes, I was off in search of culinary delights! Dim sum, heavenly little parcels of goodness, awaited me just around the corner. There’s truly nothing quite like sitting at a cosy sidewalk café, surrounded by steaming baskets of these delicious treats, ordering plate after plate of sheer delight! Once back in my room, I found myself engrossed in my laptop, and before I knew it, it was two in the morning before I finally turned in for the night.

 

Taiping to Sungai Petani (125 km)

As the sun began to peek over the highlands, I happily pedalled out of Taiping on what was shaping up to be a beautiful Sunday morning. Cyclists were out in droves enjoying their morning rides, which added to the uplifting energy around me. In my usual spirit of exploration, I tried taking shortcuts and alternative paths, enjoying the stunning vistas but occasionally encountering unexpected dead ends.

My journey led me through enchanting indigenous forests where monkeys playfully swung between branches and vibrant blue birds sang from above. While the terrain was slightly undulating, the scenery was absolutely magnificent, filled with the earthy aroma of damp soil and decaying leaves. The road wound along narrow pathways that crossed rickety bridges and passed by majestic mosques and colourful Hindu temples. Eventually, however, my adventurous spirit led me onto a dusty dirt track, prompting a brief backtrack to reconnect with the main road.

By evening, just as a storm rolled in, I spotted a cosy hotel—what a fortunate sight that was! The heavens soon opened up, and rain poured down, making my earlier sleep deprivation a perfect reason to embrace a restful night’s sleep ahead. With each day filled with new experiences, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the journey I was on.

 

Sungai Petani to Changlun (100 km)

Today was a struggle. As I rolled out of Sungai Petani, my legs felt like lead, and an unsettling ache of hunger nagged at me. Last night’s neglect of my appetite was catching up. With the Thai/Malaysian border in my sights, I pushed through the thick fatigue weighing me down.

The bike shop in Kuala Lumpur was a frustrating thorn in my side. After eagerly reaching out to check on the status of my bike, I learned it hadn’t even been boxed yet! Who runs a shop like that? The last thing I wanted was to leave Malaysia without a tracking number. My two-month single-entry Thai visa loomed over me like a ticking clock, and I wasn't keen on wasting it or my precious passport pages. I’d carefully rescheduled my plans, and I wasn’t about to risk all that by crossing the border unprepared. The thought of a bus ride to KL crossed my mind as I grumbled about the lack of proper service. If I wanted something done right, I clearly had to do it myself.

Adding to my woes, the hotel I approached next refused me entry! Can you believe it? Their excuse? They couldn’t accommodate my bicycle—not that I thought that was the real reason. The place seemed to cater strictly to men and possibly to a specific demographic. Instead of bluntly stating their policies, they fed me some nonsense about the bicycle damaging their pipes. If only they understood how much I wanted to cheekily flash them and walk right back in!

 

Changlun, Malaysia to the Thailand Border

Awakening to the uncertainty of whether to forge ahead, I found myself growing restless. Still no word from the bike shop, but impatience won out. I packed my gear, loaded up, and made my way to the border, feeling a rush of adrenaline as I approached this major crossing.

The Hat Yai border proved to be a chaotic scene, bustling with activity. It wasn’t the easiest passage into Thailand, especially given their ridiculous requirement to show 20,000 baht in cash. Just my luck! However, with determination guiding me, I navigated through the commotion until I finally crossed into Thailand.

 
 
Thailand
Finding Solitude in the Unfolding Journey
652 Km – 10 Days

 

Thailand Border to Rattaphum (97 km)

After a protracted morning and a well-deserved late breakfast, I found myself slipping into a relaxed groove as I pedalled away from the bustling border town. No set plan; just the open road ahead and the allure of northern adventure pulling me forward.

As I cruised along, the weather was perfect—sunny but not too hot—and I felt freedom in every turn of the pedals. Eventually, I spotted what appeared to be a quaint little village up ahead. It seemed like the perfect spot to set up camp for the night, especially since I didn’t see any other potential accommodations on the map. With reasonable lodging options calling my name, I eagerly rolled in, embracing the charm and challenge of this spontaneous detour.

 

Rattaphum to Motel (116 km)

I was enjoying a leisurely pace, feeling no pressure to rush. With a meet-up with my friends Janice and Chris in Bangkok scheduled for 11 February, I had a month to soak in the journey. It's intriguing how unexpected encounters often line up in life! As I meandered along, I noticed someone trailing behind me, which gave me pause. Eventually, he pulled alongside and began chatting in a foreign language (not Thai). I smiled and attempted to connect, guessing he was likely asking the usual questions about where I was from, where I was headed, and maybe my age. After a while, he gestured for me to follow him to a place that rented rooms by the hour. Choosing to disengage politely, I waved goodbye and continued on my way.

To my surprise, he kept pace behind me! It turns out he was on an electric scooter, and he followed me for over an hour. After a bit of time, feeling a mixture of concern and humour, I decided to stop. When he pulled up next to me again, I expressed myself loudly and clearly: “What do you want? Please go away!” While I knew he wouldn’t understand the words, my tone and my passionate demeanour definitely got the point across. Thankfully, from that moment on, I no longer had a shadow. I’ll admit, there was an odd satisfaction in expressing my feelings in a way he couldn't quite grasp!

 

Motel to Bali Boutique Hotel (142 km)

Waking to a gentle drizzle, I set off for the day. While I’ve been spoiled with beautiful weather lately, the rain added an interesting twist to my journey. It’s amazing how much we can adapt when faced with different circumstances! I found that, despite the drizzle, the rhythm of the road beckoned me. I stopped only briefly to refill my water bottle, choosing to stay on the highway for the day rather than diverting to a country lane.

As the kilometres rolled by, I began searching for a cosy camping spot or a guesthouse. However, nothing seemed suitable on my route. After biking 140 kilometres, I decided to seize whatever option came my way next—and that turned out to be the Bali Boutique Hotel. While the name might suggest a more opulent experience, it was a perfect place to cleanse away the remnants of the day’s drizzle.

 

Bali Boutique to Motel (113 km)

On a wonderfully overcast morning, I set off from Bali Boutique, excited for the day ahead, even as a brisk headwind greeted me. It's been a while since I tackled a ride like this, and I reminded myself that every journey has its challenges. While headwinds can be tough, I stayed focused on my goal. Along the way, I encountered a delightful lady selling steamed palm cakes, which gave me the perfect excuse to take a quick break. Sometimes, a little treat is just what you need to lift your spirits and keep your mind engaged, especially when cycling into the wind!

As I continued my ride through Thailand, I had the pleasure of passing by stunning shrines and temples that added a touch of charm to my journey. One standout location was the Suan Mokkh Garden of Liberation. Founded in 1932 by a visionary Buddhist monk, the garden is dedicated to teaching the essence of Buddhism. Buddhadāsa Bhikkhu, the founding monk, left the bustling monastic life in Bangkok, seeking a place of purity removed from the chaos. Located at the base of Phutta Thong Hill, the expansive 60-hectare complex invites visitors to embrace the tranquillity of nature—encouraging tree hugs and conversations with stones! It was a truly revitalising experience, allowing me to find some peace amid the challenges of the ride. I can already envision returning to this serene haven!

 

Motel to Chumphon (89 km)

After my inspiring visit, I faced another day of powering through a strong breeze, but that didn’t dampen my spirit! Arriving in Chumphon, I discovered the cozy Farang Bar, which offered some simple accommodations. Feeling a bit fatigued from several days of riding without a break, I decided to take a day off in Chumphon. It was a perfect opportunity to catch up on laundry and update my blog, allowing me to reflect on my adventures!

 

Chumphon to Bang Saphan Beach (105 km)

To my surprise, the headwind was still spirited as I set out toward Bang Saphan! Although the journey wasn't as effortless as I had hoped, I kept reminding myself that every pedal stroke was bringing me closer to my destination. Typically, this ride is captivating with its beautiful scenery, but today was a lesson in perseverance. Despite feeling tired from battling the elements, I made it to Bang Saphan—each km conquered just a little more rewarding!

 

Bang Saphan Beach to Prachuap Khiri Khan (87 km)

Eager to get some distance under my belt before the wind picked up, I started my day early! I even found a shortcut through a lovely residential area, accompanied by a few friendly village dogs joining in on the adventure. The route to Pratchap is one of my absolute favourites. It winds elegantly along the ocean, offering breathtaking views at every turn. As the wind picked up a bit, I only had 20 kilometres left, and soon I found myself slipping into Pratchap by midday, feeling accomplished and excited for what lay ahead!

Every day on this journey is a mix of challenges and joys, and I’m grateful for each experience that comes my way!

Every step of this journey, with its twists and turns, brings exciting stories and lessons, and I can’t wait to see what awaits me in the days to come!

My abode of choice was Maggie’s homestay, where one could find an inexpensive bed. Maggie’s is a popular guesthouse and offers one or two air-conditioned rooms in the main house. Still, most of the accommodation is at the rear, consisting of extremely basic fan rooms with shared bathrooms. It isn’t a great deal different from a dorm – the only difference being you can’t see the others, but you can hear even the slightest sound. The biggest drawcard is the communal area where one can kick back on one of the sofas or the garden’s raised wooden deck.

Not feeling 100%, another day was spent at Maggie’s. I later walked to the shop to buy a remote keyboard and mouse. I was becoming immensely frustrated with my laptop keyboard, which often malfunctioned.

 

Prachuap Khiri Khan to Hua Hin (56 km)

As I said goodbye to Maggie’s, I was greeted by much brighter weather, which set the tone for an enjoyable ride ahead! The first half of my journey was a charming cycle through picturesque country lanes, while the latter half took me along the main road—sometimes you just have to make the best of it!

During my ride, I came across a fascinating shrine I’d seen before, and I couldn't help but let my imagination run wild with stories about it. Nestled by a tranquil creek, the shrine had a little wooden canoe sheltered to one side, while the other side showcased lovely silk clothing, a dressing table, and a few delicate pieces of jewellery. The shrine itself was beautifully adorned with vibrant flowers, graceful female figurines, and containers of colourful makeup. In my mind, I envisioned it as a tribute to a young girl who may have tragically drowned when her boat capsized—a heartfelt tale that made the shrine even more special to me.

 

Hua Hin to Pattaya (By Bus)

Excited about the journey from Hua Hin, I was thrilled to learn about the ferry crossing across the Gulf of Thailand to Pattaya. However, I learned that bicycles were not permitted, which was a bit of a bummer since it would have made my trip much easier around the bustling northern tip.

As I cycled out of Hua Hin, I passed by the airport bus station and decided to check if there were options available. Just as luck would have it, a bus was leaving that had space for my bicycle! I jumped on, and before I knew it, I arrived at Bangkok airport. From there, I hopped on another bus for a two-hour journey to Pattaya, and by the time we rolled in, it was already dark.

The good news was that it was only a short three-kilometre ride to my abode, where Ernest was taking a well-deserved break from his own travels. I was excited to have a few days to unwind and prepare for my planned two-month ride in Southeast Asia with Janice and Chris. There was so much to look forward to!

 

Epilogue

Crossings are strange: you don’t just step into a new country—you step into a slightly altered version of yourself. Thailand met me with sunlight, open stretches of road, and days that asked for little more than forward motion. I fell into the rhythm of it—the easy drift of pedalling, the small negotiations with wind and weather, the quiet recalibrations of trust after being followed too long by a stranger’s persistence. The road kept teaching the same lesson in different disguises: your voice is allowed to rise; your no can be loud; your solitude can be protected.

There were temples and shrines, and places that steadied the mind—like the Suan Mokkh Garden of Liberation, where the world seemed to invite stillness, even while I remained in motion. And there were practical endings, too—the ferry that wouldn’t take bicycles, the bus that finally would, the sudden leap forward to Pattaya, as if the journey decided to fold time for me at the last moment.

When I arrived, it was dark, and yet it didn’t feel like an ending. It felt like a pause—like exhaling- ahead of me waited another chapter: a longer ride, new company, a meeting with Janice and Chris planned in Bangkok. The road, as always, was already calling.