Malaysia (5.1) – Thailand (14)3
January – 19 January 20181296
Km – 17 Days
Malaysia (5.1)
644
Km – 7 Days
3
January 2018 - Kuala Lumpur – Selangor – 87 km
After
Linda’s departure, there remained no reason to hang around Kuala Lumpur,
besides taking the bicycle she used to the bike shop to box it and send it onto
Pattaya. Once done, the owner promised to phone Malaysia Post to collect it. The
necessary money was left at the shop and hopefully, all would work out as
intended.
Departing
Kuala Lumpur was surprisingly effortless as I found myself on a bicycle path,
making an easy escape
out of the city centre. These dedicated bicycle/motorcycle paths came complete
with road signs and hiding places during heavy weather. It all would’ve been simple
if not for the lane closure due to roadworks.
On
taking a wrong turn, I landed upon a busy freeway and discovered it virtually
impossible to exit. I got swept along by traffic flying past at high speed and
miraculously escaped by eventually finding an exit. The way led past no fewer
than three golf courses, each more tranquil than the last. The road continued
over hills and through oil palm plantations offering beautiful vistas.
At
last, my intended route reappeared, and I called it a day at lovely Kuala
Selangor, situated on the Selangor River, well known as a place to watch fireflies.
Once settled, I took to the streets in search of a new cup water heater as mine
was broken, as well as a new mug which I lost. Later, on sorting out the
panniers, the cup was hidden underneath all the other crap. There’s something to
be said for being well organised, a skill I never acquired.
4
January – Kuala Selangor – Teluk Intan – 105 km
The
day was one of backroads, butterflies, beautiful flowers, friendly folk, and
bike problems. Shortly after leaving, the crank arm needed tightening, a demanding
job without the right tools. The owner of a nearby house came to help, and albeit
not having the right tool either, he used a spoon handle. I love people who can
make a plan!
I
was happy the bike was fixed and turned off onto an even smaller track which turned
out a relaxed cycle through plantations and tiny settlements, each sporting a mosque
and a few Chinese or Hindu temples. Butterflies and dragonflies were out in
force and swarmed around me as my path slowly made its way north while playful
monkeys scooted across the way. Midday revealed a stall selling “Kari kambing”
(curried goat), which reminded me of Jamaica.
My
path followed the Perak River, which I hadn’t cycled previously. The first town
was Teluk Intan, and on pulling into town, the bicycle’s rear hub eventually
gave in. Fortunately, it happened right outside a hotel. After booking in, I set
out in search of a bicycle shop. Not expecting to find any, a friendly
restaurant owner pointed me to a motorbike repairman. Though trying his best, the
hub was beyond repair and best to fit a new one. Finding a suitable hub in such
a small town was virtually impossible and better fit a new wheel. Still, being
late, places were already closed. He promised to phone other shops in the
morning to check whether they’d a wheel, and I returned to the hotel. This was
entirely my fault as I had this problem for quite some time and did nothing
about it. I spent four days in Kuala Lumpur wandering the streets instead of taking
the bicycle for a service.
5
January - Teluk Intan
To
make a long story short (which remains a long story), I was up early, had
coffee, and then walked the 2.5 kilometres into town to find the very
professional JTC Bike Centre. However, the shop was,
closed as staff only arrived at around 10h00. On closer inspection the shop was
far too professional for my ageing bicycle. There was no hub or wheel to suit
my requirements, as a 26” wheel with a V-brake was needed. I returned to the
motorbike shop where I left the bike. Again, the shop was closed, and the owner
of the adjacent mini-mart indicated “1 jam.” And I wasn’t sure if he meant in
one hour or one o’clock.
In
the meantime, I’d a delicious bowl of noodle soup, paid the hotel an additional
night (as there was no getting out of town that day). On my return to the shop,
I found the owner had uncovered a new set of wheels (both front and rear)
complete with rim, spokes, and hub, since they were only available in a pair. I
paid his expenses and indicated I would return later. It needs to be mentioned all
this happened without us speaking a single word. My Basa Malay was practically
non-existent, and the owner clearly didn’t speak any English. But miraculously,
I was soon ready to roll.
6
January – Teluk Intan – Taiping – 130 km
I
headed out of Teluk Intan on a misty morning and across the Perak River. Monkeys
darted across the path while others sat in treetops, protectively clutching
their young on spotting this strange spectacle. The following 50 kilometres
followed the river, past lakes and communities of rustic homes on stilts. Past
banana plantations and rice paddies. The previous night’s rain filled the
paddies and farmers were busy preparing rice fields. Flocks of egrets hung around,
waiting for an easy meal.
A
shortcut led over the hills, past large oil palm plantations and the Ulu
Recreational forest. The scenery was sublime and the mist swirling around the
higher peaks made me wonder if it would be possible to escape the approaching
storm. But, mercifully, the storm never materialised and my fears of having to
cross the mountains looming in the distance never became a reality.
My
arrival in Taiping was in good time and where the cheapest lodging in Taiping
was discovered. The Peking Hotel was built in 1929, and it appeared no maintenance
work had been done since. The building had a fascinating history and was
believed the residence of a wealthy Taiping businessman. The Taiping Rubber
Association subsequently used the building as offices. However, during the
Japanese Occupation from 1941 – 1945, the premisses became the headquarters of
the notorious Kempeitai.
I
was happy with my shabby abode, as the room was a ground floor one, and one
could push the bicycle right inside. I’d a quick shower, rinsed my clothes, and
then set off in search of dim sum discovered in a side street. There are few
things I like more than sitting at a sidewalk café behind huge steaming baskets
of dim sum and ordering plate upon plate of these tiny but delicious morsels! Once
in the room, working on my laptop kept me busy and it was two in the morning
before turning in.
7
January – Taiping - Sungai Petani – 125 km
As
the sun peeked over the highlands, I biked out of Taiping. It turned out a
beautiful Sunday
morning, with numerous cyclists, out on their morning ride. Like the previous
day, I tried taking shortcuts and alternative paths, which inevitably offered stunning
vistas and sudden dead ends.
I
pedalled past indigenous forests where monkeys swung from branch to branch, and
bright blue birds chirped from treetops. Although a tad undulating, the route
was magnificently scenic. The earthy smell of damp soil and rotting leaves filled
the air. The road meandered along narrow trails over ramshackle bridges, past
mosques, and Hindu temples. Eventually, my path turned into a dusty dirt track,
and I’d to retrace my steps to the main road. By evening a hotel appeared just
as a storm rolled in, a good thing as well, as it soon started bucketing down—my
previous night’s lack of sleep made a good night’s rest.
8
January – Sungai Petani – Changlun - 100 km
At
times I’m not hungry; as a result, I don’t eat enough and then pay the price
the next day. That was precisely what happened the previous night. I departed
Sungai Petani with heavy legs and headed towards the Thai/Malaysian border.
On
contacting the bike shop in Kuala Lumpur to check on the bike’s progress, I discovered
they haven’t even boxed it yet. I didn’t want to leave the country without a
tracking number from the post office. I’d a 2-month single-entry Thai visa, and
I didn’t want to use it unnecessarily. Besides the cost, I ran out of pages in
my passport and didn’t want to waste the four remaining ones running to and
from Malaysia. Best to sort things out before crossing the border, and if need
be, I could bus to KL to make sure all was in order. What a pain – I was appalled
at the poor service and, as always, thought it best to do things myself.
Another
strange thing was the hotel where I wanted to check in didn’t allow me in! Have
you ever? The reason might’ve been the establishment only catered to men and or
Muslims. They didn’t say it outright but claimed one couldn’t bring the bicycle
inside or leave it outside or lock it to the pipes as the pipes “may break”.
The reason was obviously not the bike. That said it was their hotel, and they could
allow whoever they wanted. I nevertheless thought they should’ve stated their
intentions instead of wasting my time using trivial excuses. On leaving, I’d an
overwhelming desire to give him a boob-flash!
9
January – Changlun, Malaysia – Rattaphum, Thailand – 97 km
There
was no response from the shop, and I was unsure whether to continue
or not. Eventually, and naturally impatient, I packed up and biked to the
border. Unfortunately, the Hat Yai border wasn’t the best border to use. The
border was a busy one and made entry into Thailand difficult. (i.e. one had to
show 20000 baht in cash - what a pain).
Once
done and following a late breakfast, I headed out of town. I’d no specific
destination in mind and followed my nose in a northerly direction. As the
weather was favourable, I ambled along, making the best of the good conditions.
On
spotting what looked like a village, I thought it an excellent place to bunk
down, albeit still early. The map didn’t show any other locations, and as it
sported budget accommodation, I was happy with my choice.
Thailand (14)
652 Km – 10 Days
10
January – Rattaphum –Motel – 116 km
I
was operating in low gear as there was no rush to go anywhere. It’s funny how
unprecedented things can occur one upon the other. Ambling along in my sweet
time, I became aware of a person following me, something always a tad
disconcerting. After a while, he pulled
up next to me and began chatting away in a foreign language (not Thai). Smiling,
I tried my best to communicate, thinking he was, highly likely, asking the usual,
where are you from? Where are you going? And “how old are you? Eventually, he
gestured to follow him as he pulled into an establishment that rented rooms by
the hour. Pretending not to understand, I waved him goodbye and continued my
ride. Later, I realised he was still behind me. I was unaware of as he was on
an electric scooter. It must be mentioned the situation prevailed over an hour
before I lost my cool.
Stopping,
I waited until he pulled up next to me and shouted at the top of my lungs and in
his face: “What the fuck do you want? Get away from me, creep!” Knowing he didn’t
understand a word, my tone of voice, body language, and facial expressions must’ve
successfully conveyed the message, as I never saw him again. I must mention,
for those who’ve never done it, there is an immense pleasure in telling someone
to “fuck off” in a language they don’t understand.
11
January –Motel – Bali Boutique Hotel - 142 km
Getting
underway was in a drizzle. A drizzle that continued throughout the day. I
became so used to good weather; I found this mildly irritating. There’s not a
great deal one can do but put your head down and follow the road. I barely
stopped except to fill my water bottle. Highway cycling is soul-destroying,
and, if it weren’t for the rain, I very likely would’ve taken a country lane. I,
nevertheless, chose the comfortable option and stayed on the highway the entire
day.
Later,
I started looking for a camping spot or guesthouse, but I never saw anything
suitable. On reaching 140 kilometres, best to settle for whatever came up next,
which happened at the Bali Boutique Hotel. The name may conjure up images of a far
more luxurious establishment, but it made good enough digs to wash the day’s
drizzle fuelled grime off.
12
January – Bali Boutique - Motel - 113 km
On
a heavily overcast morning, I pedalled out of Bali Boutique straight into a
brisk headwind. Not having cycled into the wind for ages, I guessed your time
is your time. Headwinds never make pleasant cycling, and like the previous day
I didn’t stop much and kept to the task at hand. Nevertheless, a friendly lady
selling steamed palm cakes made me pull off to buy a few, if only to keep my
head in the game, as cycling into a headwind is indeed a head game.
In
Thailand, the route led past exciting shrines and temples. Still, the truly interesting
was the Suan Mokkh Garden of Liberation. Founded in 1932 by a Buddhist monk,
his goal was to teach basic Buddhism. The monastery was founded by Buddhadāsa
Bhikkhu after giving up the monastic system in Bangkok as he thought the Wats
dirty, crowded, and corrupt. He dedicated the remainder of his life to pursuing
the pristine Dhamma. True Suan Mokkh can only be achieved within a silent mind,
and the complex is located on 60 hectares of land at the Phutta Thong Hill’s
foothills. Suan Mokkh is a forest monastery and the best was people are
encouraged to hug trees and talk to the stones. I loved it and I’m sure I’ll
return to this place in the future. The visit was just what was needed to quiet
my mind and the rest of the way was more relaxed, albeit still into the wind.
13-14
January – Motel - Champhon – 89 km
It
became one more day of grinding into a stiff breeze, no fun at all. I continued
to Chumphon, which sported the Farang Bar, offering a few basic rooms.
I felt tired as I went a good few days without a break and stayed in Champhon
the next day, doing laundry and updating the blog.
15
January Champhon to Bang Saphan Beach – 105 km
It
wasn’t long before I learned my assumption the wind had given me a break was
clearly incorrect. Again, the day was marred by blustery weather and an
additional day was spent battling into the wind. Under normal circumstances,
the ride to Bang Saphan was lovely, but on this day, it wasn’t as enjoyable and
I did what was required. However, even after the previous days’ rest, the wind
made exhausting riding and I felt tired crawling into Bang Saphan.
16-17
January – Bang Saphan Beach – Pratchap Khiri Khan - 87 km
Departing
was remarkably early, thinking one could get a few kilometres under the belt prior
to the wind picking up. A shortcut ran through the residential area, and I got
underway with the village dogs in tow. The stretch to Pratchap is one of my
favourite rides, as the road ran flush along the ocean. The wind did pick up a
tad, but only 20 kilometres remained and thus, midday by the time I slinked
into Pratchap.
My
abode of choice was Maggie’s homestay, where one could find a bed at 180 – 200
baht. Maggie’s is a popular guesthouse and offers one or two air-con rooms in
the main house. Still, most of the accommodation is at the rear, consisting of extremely
basic fan rooms and a shared bathroom. It isn’t a great deal different from a dorm
– the only difference being you can’t see the others, but you can hear even the
slightest sound. The biggest drawcard is the communal area where one can kick
back on one of the sofas or the garden’s raised wooden deck.
Not
feeling 100%, another day was spent at Maggie’s. I later took a walk to the
shop to purchase a remote keyboard and mouse. I was becoming immensely
frustrated with the keyboard, which malfunctioned often.
18
January - Pratchap Khiri Khan – Hua Hin
Leaving
Maggie’s, the weather was much improved and half the ride was spent cycling
along country lanes but the last half was along the main road as there were no
other options.
In
the process I passed a shrine seen on previous occasions. I was fascinated by it
as by then, I’ve made up my own story about it. The shrine was situated
on a creek and to the right was a shelter housing a tiny wooden canoe. To the
left was an enclosure featuring beautiful silk clothing, a dressing table and a
few pieces of jewellery. The main shrine was adorned by flowers, female
figurines and containers of makeup. My version is - the shrine is dedicated to
a younger female (a child maybe) who drowned in the river when her boat
capsized.
19
January - Hua Hin – Pattaya - By bus
From
Hua Hin a ferry operated across the Gulf of Thailand to Pattaya and I was keen
to try it. But, unfortunately, I was informed bicycles weren’t allowed. I was
slightly disappointed as it would’ve saved me cycling around the northern tip
of the Gulf of Thailand, a notoriously congested section.
Cycling
out of Hua Hin, I passed the airport bus station and stopped to inquire. As a
bus was leaving at that exact moment and had space for the bicycle, I hopped on.
Once at Bangkok airport, an additional bus ran to Pattaya/Jomtien, a two-hour
bus ride. By the time the bus reached Pattaya, it was already dark.
Fortunately, from the bus to my place was only three kilometres and where
Ernest was taking a break from his travels.
I
had a few days to relax before meeting Janice and Chris in Bangkok for a
two-month ride in Southeast Asia and thus spent my time arranging all that
needed to be done.
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