Wednesday, 25 January 2012

CYCLE TOURING BRAZIL (2) - PART 3 - EN ROUTE TO VENEZUELA


 
BRAZIL (2) - PART FOUR
Manaus, Brazil – Santa Helena, Venezuela
9 January - 24 January 2012
1 162 Kilometres – 15 Days

 


 MAP

PHOTOS

E-BOOK


9 January - Manaus – roadside restaurant - 64 km

I said goodbye to Amanda (who was catching her flight the following day). Then, Ernest and I headed out of Manaus in the direction of Venezuela. Unfortunately, we had a slow start as Ernest’s chain broke four kilometres out of town. Not much later, significant storm clouds gathered, and it soon started bucketing down. Not liking how the lightning hit the overhead wires, I thought it best to take shelter until the worst was over.

The road north ran through a dense forest on a slightly hilly route. Albeit scenic, the weather remained sweltering. When the weather came in the second time, a roadside restaurant with an old chicken shed made an excellent place to set up camp. The owners didn’t mind and even showed us the shower and toilets. Ernest swept the chicken shed, so we could pitch the tents under cover. The adjacent restaurant had a reasonably priced buffet, making it a natural choice for supper.

 

10 January - Roadside restaurant - Presidente Figueiredo - 67 km

Following coffee and back on the bikes, it became clear this was indeed the Amazon basin as macaws, parrots, love birds, and bright blue butterflies kept us company while we were climbing hill upon hill. The road led through dense forests and across countless rivers and ponds that looked undisturbed for centuries.

Around Presidente Figueiredo, a few waterfalls with lovely picnic areas looked too organised for wild camping. So, we settled for a room in Presidente Figueiredo instead.

 

11 January - Presidente Figueiredo – Da Tia Restaurant - 128 km

A short but hilly section ran to Da Tia Restaurant, where Ernest previously overnighted en route to Manaus. The owner (Antonio) was accommodating, and we pitched out tents under a gazebo adjacent to the restaurant. Our early arrival gave Ernest time to service his bicycle and fix what was broken. The place was lush, and a short walk through Antonio’s garden revealed loads to eat, including mangoes, avocados and bananas.

 

12 January - Roadside restaurant – Petrol station - 76 km

There’s nothing better than waking to the sound of birds; add being offered a complimentary breakfast made it the perfect start to the day. Luckily, the weather was overcast, which made the hot and hilly road more bearable. The ride was incredibly scenic with lush, green trees and sunlight filtering through the leaves, and I was happy with my decision to bike to the border instead of taking a bus. I would deal with the visa problem later.

We continued until reaching a petrol station, which Ernest spotted on his way to Manaus. It made a perfect place to spend the night as it had a gazebo, showers and toilets. Later, Ernest cooked pasta in anticipation of a long ride the next day.

 

13 January - Petrol station – Vila Jundia - 133 km

Six kilometres after leaving, the road entered the Waimiri indigenous people reserve. The reserve stretched 120 kilometres, and camping was out of the question as even stopping or taking photos was prohibited. Nevertheless, it remained a stunning ride through virgin forest but sadly with nor villages or roadside restaurants to fill our water bottles.

Towards the end of the reserve, I was delighted to notice a road sign indicating 10 kilometres to Vila Jundia. Following a long, hilly, hot day, we left the park just as the sun started setting. A pousada sporting tiny colourful bungalows caught our attention. It wasn’t merely inexpensive but sported hot water and air-con.

I couldn’t wait to drag my body into the shower while Ernest rode to the supermarket and conjured up a pasta dish.

 

14 January - Vila Jundia – Nova Colina - 98 km

After eating the leftover pasta with fresh rolls from the bakery, we hopped on our mobile homes. Our route and the forest flattened out somewhat, but a headwind and the muddy and potholed road slowed our efforts. Authorities were busy building a new road; some sections were smooth and paved while others were under construction.

Shortly after departing, a sign indicating the equator called for a photo stop. It wasn’t the first time I crossed that line, and I was sure it wouldn’t be the last.

Nova Colina was more extensive than anticipated and revealed a “hotel”, two supermercados and two bakeries. Nevertheless, Ernest recommended pitching the tents behind a church with a shelter outback, but I headed straight to the “hotel”.

 

15 January - Nova Colina – Rorainopolis - 45 km

The section to Rorainopolis was poor. The route was dusty, hilly and into the wind, and I was happy to reach this tiny community. Rorainopolis sported accommodation where we could do laundry and connect to the internet, but the connection was weak, and too frustrating.

 

16 January - Rorainopolis – Nova Paraiso - 36 km

Rorainopolis was barely 36 kilometres from the tiny settlement of Nova Paraiso. Although the settlement didn’t have anything of interest, neither Ernest nor I felt well, and on spotting a small pousada hidden behind a petrol station, we called it a day. Nova Paraiso was hardly a “New Paradise” but it was an excellent place to chill.

 

17 January - Nova Paraiso – Caracarai - 127 km

From our guesthouse to Caracarai was a long, hot 127-kilometre bike ride. Fortunately, the route was relatively easy. There wasn’t anything to look at besides roadworks and a few roadside eateries, and we felt it was best to push on. Once in Caracarai Ernest cycled to the supermarket and returned with ingredients to make a potato salad.

 

18 January - Caracarai – Mucajai - 87 km

The dense forest slowly gave way to cattle ranches, and it seemed cattle replaced the parrots and macaws. Mercifully, the weather was cloudy, which made it easy pedalling. Mucajai was a tiny settlement that, surprisingly, had accommodation and offered an internet connection. I spent most of the evening uploading photos and playing on the internet.

 

19-21 January - Mucajai – Boa Vista - 63 km

I was looking forward to Boa Vista and having a day of leisure. Unfortunately, since the forest had disappeared, it became windier, and we battled into a headwind for most of the day. As was the norm, accommodation could be found around the bus station. Boa Vista was a strange town in that the centre was quiet. The majority of business was around the bus station and outlying areas.

I thought I could sort out my expired visa in Boa Vista but I couldn’t find the appropriate office. I gave up and did laundry instead.

 

22 January - Boa Vista – Rosa de Saron - 106 km

Cloudy weather, a slight drizzle, and a tailwind made it easy riding. In the late afternoon, an under-cover spot beside a restaurant provided a place to pitch the tents. Unfortunately, it was a busy, noisy area where busses and taxis stopped for snacks and a toilet break.

 

23 January - Rosa de Saron – Indiu Village- 92 km

Some days bring more difficult pedalling than others and this was one of them. It was scorching and mountainous, and we climbed hill after hill in stifling heat. I thought I would pass out as I started seeing black and yellow spots. The road was exposed with nowhere to hide.

Eventually, we reached a small indigenous community that, fortunately, had a good enough covered area to set up camp.

 

24 January - Indiu Village, Brazil – Santa Elena, Venezuela - 40 km

By early morning, the weather was already boiling. As more hills were waiting, I left while Ernest was still busy getting ready.

A slow climb of nearly 1,000 metres in sweltering heat led up the Gran Sabana plateau, Pacaraima (the border), and Santa Helena in Venezuela. On arriving in Pacaraima, I bought more Brazilian coffee, which became a favourite during our Brazilian travels.

Concerned about my Brazilian visa, which had expired 16 days previously, I wasn’t sure what the procedure would be. Thank goodness, the fine of 132 reals was only payable on re-entry into Brazil. That was great news, as the more cash I could take into Venezuela, the better. At that time, changing money on the street was twice as good as drawing from the ATM.

Once immigration was cleared, a short cycle led into the touristy border town of Santa Helena. The town sported ample accommodation as it was the starting point for people wanting to climb Mount Roraima. I would’ve loved to have done that, but Ernest wasn’t one for such ventures.

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