Southeast Asia - Tania’s Tour
3 448 Kilometres – 52 Days
14 June – 8 August 2016
Thailand (7.1) - 718 Kilometres – 10 Days Laos (3) - 966 Kilometres – 14 Days Cambodia (3) - 1 336 Kilometres – 23 Days Thailand (8) - 428 Kilometres – 5 Days
Thailand
(7.1)
718
Kilometres – 10 Days
14
June - 25 June 2016
June
14-15 – Bangkok
The
day Tania arrived, it felt like I’d finally turned the corner and felt
marvellous compared to the previous days. Hallelujah! My breakfast miraculously
stayed down, and I even managed coffee.
“I
made it!” Tania exclaimed, smiling, arriving around midday, impressing me
with her packing skills. Her belongings fitted neatly into her bike box and only
one other bag. I instantly knew she was a winner. After my bout of Dengue
Fever, I needed to get myself into cycling shape so we could explore Southeast
Asia. In the meantime, we explored Bangkok and its pedestrian lanes, ate from the many street
vendors and, in general, enjoyed the craziness of Bangkok.
June
16-17 - Bangkok – Ayutthaya – 83 km
After
two days of exploring, the time came to leave Bangkok, which I was pleased about
as I’d enough of my fleapit. Getting underway earlier than anticipated was a
good thing. The weather was pleasantly cool and the traffic not too horrendous.
Riding
out of Bangkok can be stressful, and it took forever to clear the city limits.
However, Tania did exceptionally well, and we left mighty Bangkok without hick-ups.
Once along the city’s outskirts, a rural path along a canal made relaxed biking
past luminous green rice paddies and delicious-looking eateries. With its
magnificent ruins, Ayutthaya made a perfect overnight stop. That night, a
lovely, old, wooden schoolhouse building on extensive grounds became home.
The
following day was spent exploring the ruins and eating our way through the day.
Once the capital of the Kingdom of Siam, Ayutthaya was founded around 1350. Having
an ideal location between China, India and the Malay Archipelago, Ayutthaya was
Asia’s trading capital. By 1700, it had become the largest city globally with
one million inhabitants. All this ended abruptly when Burmese forces invaded
Ayutthaya in 1767 and almost completely raised the city to the ground. These
ruins are today a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
18
June - Ayutthaya - Lopburi – 63 km
The
weather was moderately overcast and roughly 30-34 degrees Celsius, making our second
day of riding another perfect day. Thailand is littered with fascinating sights,
and first up was an elephant kraal. The elephants and mahouts were preparing
for a day of tourist rides, and the elephants
were dressed in their Sunday best.
Next
up was a bizarre, if not kitsch, temple sporting a humongous dragon or dragon
tail surrounding the entire property. A multitude of small paths led to
Lopburi, making an enjoyable day out on the bike. En route, a kind lady flagged
us down and handed us a bag of bananas, which kept us going through the day. In
the country side it’s virtually impossible to pass villages unnoticed, as white
women on bicycles couldn’t easily fly under the radar in the country. We were observed
by slacked-jawed villagers and nervous-looking kids and dogs.
Our
way led past gigantic Buddha statues, incredibly ornate temples, bamboo forests,
and, of course, the ever-present carts selling exotic nibbles. Once in Lopburi,
the popular Noom Guest House lured us in and once settled in, we explored the
town’s attractions. Lopburi is an ancient town with an abundance of old ruins all
within comfortable walking distance. However, today, the old city is occupied
by ordinary Thai life and a gang of monkeys. A visit to the Monkey Temple left
me in awe of how similar monkey family life is to ours, and I could spend hours
observing them.
Tania
took to life on a bike like a fish to water, as no sooner was her shirt washed than
a line was strung.
19
June - Lopburi – Pak Chong – 103 km
In
a haze of smoke from breakfast BBQs, we departed Lopburi, a far more
substantial town than expected, as the well-visited touristy area was in the
old part. It took forever to clear the
city limits. Eventually, our chosen route led along farm tracks, a beautiful
stretch through the countryside dotted by tiny hamlets. Sadly, our rural road
spat us out on the highway, which shocked us as the traffic was terrible. The
way was hilly as we biked over the pass in the midday heat. However, all
uphills come to an end. Eventually, we descended onto Pak Chong, reaching
nearly 60 kilometres per hour. Clouds gathered, making a considerably cooler
ride towards the end of the day.
Pak
Chong signalled the end of the day’s ride, mainly due to the sight of washing
machines, which I desperately needed as I hadn’t done any laundry since departing
Bangkok and even the stray dogs kept their distance. The dogs appeared to
respond well to the word “voetsek,” as they retreated to a safe distance if
uttered with enough conviction.
20
June - Pak Chong – Starwell Bali - 107 km
From
our overnight accommodation the way led past innumerable statue-making areas displaying
all shapes, sizes,
and colour Buddhas. We pedalled past villages surrounded by luminous green rice
fields where vendors keenly offered exotic fruit. The most amusing was coming
upon an elephant waiting for a ride at the bus shelter. Only in Thailand!
Again,
a secondary road led through farmlands, but on this day our path turned into a
muddy track. Surprisingly, the trail petered out completely, leaving us no
choice but to backtrack to the main road. Tania and I cared little for the city
of Nakhon Ratchasima and gave the town a wide berth. In the process, we uncovered
comfortable accommodation consisting of wooden chalets surrounded by lush
greenery.
21
June - Starwell Bali – Phimai - 60 km
“Did
you see the weather?” Tania asked, frowning, as we emerged to bucketing rain. Mercifully,
the weather soon cleared, making a short and pleasurable ride to Phimai to explore
Prasat Hin Phimai, one of Thailand’s biggest and most important religious
sanctuaries. Our abode of choice was the Phimai Paradise House, a lovely hostel
revealing wooden floors and high ceilings.
Once
settled, the ruins begged to be investigated, and our efforts were well
rewarded. Constructed around the 11th–12th century, it
must’ve been a significant town in its day. Inscriptions discovered on one of
the doors indicate the city has existed since the ancient Khmer Empire. The
fascinating part is that these temples were constructed a century earlier than Cambodia’s
strikingly similar Angkor Wat. The town of Phimai marks one of the furthermost
western outposts of the Khmer Empire’s holy highway. I thought all this fascinating
and was happy we made the detour.
After
inspecting the ruins, we pedalled to Sai Ngam, a 350-year-old Banyan tree. En
route to our digs, the night market made convenient pickings. A wide variety of
food was available, including surprisingly tasty ant salad.
22
June - Phimai
Phimai
was a lovely laid-back little village, and we stayed another day.
Early morning made a perfect time to jog and explore the area on foot. However,
I soon realised all wasn’t well yet, as the dengue fever drained me of all
energy.
The
remainder of the day was spent catching up on outstanding housekeeping –
organising and re-organising photos, doing laundry and making a few long
overdue phone calls.
On
my walkabout, I met the (retired) town photographer. At age 78, he was still an
avid photographer and collector of antique cameras. We’d a lovely chat, and he
insisted I take a photo of him with a self-portrait, taken 50 years ago, in the
background. Before I knew it, the day was over, and time to frequent the night
market.
23
June – Phimai – Ban Phai – 119 km
Getting
away early, coupled with overcast weather, made relaxed pedalling. The northern
part of Thailand is pretty rural, and our route passed a multitude of small
villages, each with a temple and a herd of buffalo.
A
dirt path took us to a small silk-weaving community where women still weaved
silk threads by hand. Not a word of English was spoken. Still, they were happy
to show us around. The remainder of the day was filled with scenes of women
cutting reeds and we understood it was used in weaving sleeping mats.
The
no-man’s-land adjacent to the tarmac was extensively farmed and not significantly
further; villagers were harvesting lotus flowers and seeds. Before Ban Phai, farming
activities changed to bee farming and vendors sold honey and honeycombs. The
small village of Ban Phai surprisingly sported a relatively modern hotel. Once
offloaded, we hurried to the mobile food carts to grab our daily dose noodle
soup.
24
June - Ban Phai – Khao Suan Kwang – 115 km
It
poured all night but the weather subsided in the early morning, leaving a
lovely fresh ride to Khao Suan Kwang. Midway, a sign pointed to a King Cobra
Village. Veering off in the direction of the village came naturally and we
proceeded along a highly scenic rural path.
These
farm trails made fascinating biking. As my Google Map was set to “walk”
directions, it sent one along minor routes through people’s backyards and, at
times petered out completely. Rides like these are enjoyable, and this day was
no different.
People
were drying thin slivers of meat in the sun, known as “Pork One Sun”, one of
those traditional Thai recipes that got its name because the meat is left to
dry one day until cooked. Others extended invitations to share their lunch or
tended paddy fields and buffalo. So naturally, I was excited to visit the King
Cobra Village. Still, I was sorely disappointed as the village was a tourist
attraction. Sadly, these beautiful snakes’ mouths were tied closed as they
tried to make a show. Still, the ride through the countryside was a lovely.
Almost
20 kilometres further, we came upon a “resort”, which must’ve been stunning in
its heyday, but in ruins and neglected on our visit. Later, a 24-hour joint,
usually let on an hourly basis, got our attention. Still, we managed to negotiate
a reasonable rate. I think Tania was shocked at the state of the room and it came
with just one bed. Fortunately, the bed was huge, and neither was very large.
25
June – Khao Suan Kwang – Udong Thani - 68 km
Our
ride to Udong Thani was short, effortless and a typical cycle-touring day. Stopping
to take a picture, a watermelon vendor presented us with an already cut
watermelon. It was delicious, and the lady wanted no money. I felt terrible receiving
these gifts and we invested in 3-in-1 coffee sachets, which we could give in
return. Of course, they like their sweet stuff and one sachet was almost the
same price as a watermelon: still, the thought counts.
Scenery
wise, the day was lovely; butterflies darted around as we peddled past substantial
cassava plantations and sugarcane fields. En route, one of the many monasteries
made taking a few pictures and a chat with the monks. The following stop was a
durian vendor, where Tania sampled Thailand’s most famous (or infamous) fruit.
Thai
ladies fished in large ponds alongside the way, using earthworms as bait, but they
never caught anything; maybe the fish didn’t like the earthworms. Finally,
Tania joined them but was equally unsuccessful.
Later,
Tania and I made our way towards the big city of Udon Thani, passing more
monasteries and
lakes featuring fishing platforms that looked a tad more promising than the
ponds. We’d one final stop to buy sticky rice cooked in segments of bamboo
tubes. The bamboo tubes are filled with rice and beans in coconut milk and
plugged using coconut husk wrapped in a banana leaf to keep in the steam. In
Thailand, this dish is called Kao Lam, but in Malaysia, it’s known as lemang.
In
Udon Thani, the budget King’s Hotel had a massive double room and ensuite. I’d business
to see to, and Tania wanted to stock up on stuff believed not available in Laos.
Laos
(3)
966
Kilometres – 14 Days
26
June – 9 July 2016
26-27
June – Udon Thani, Thailand – Vientiane, Laos – 80 km
“I’m
bursting with excitement to go to Laos; I can’t get the smile off my face,”
Tania said, biking past the traditional smoky breakfast BBQ stands. So keen to reach
Laos, we only stopped once to drink coconut juice en route to the Thailand-Laos
border.
Once
at the immigration, a $30 visa allowed entry into the country. Reaching Laos
meant cycling across the mighty
Mekong River via the Friendship Bridge. It soon became apparent how different
things could be on the opposite side of a border.
The
French influence from yesteryear was still visible, especially in the architecture.
The baguette was in abundance and the smell of coffee permeated the air. I
withdrew 1,500,000 Laos kip, which stretched my wallet to nearly breaking point.
Once
these formalities were done, we cycled into Vientiane, the capital city, which
must be the most accessible capital by bicycle. We’d barely crossed the border,
and Tania stopped to sample the local cuisine. Unfortunately, the place I’d in
mind no longer existed, but there were plenty to choose from. Once unpacked and
showered, we headed towards the riverside eateries where one could sip a cold Lao
beer and watch the comings and goings of Vientiane. The green curry ordered was
delicious; we almost ordered a 2nd portion. Thank goodness we came
to our senses before placing the order.
The
following day was spent in Vientiane, checking out the beautiful temples and
shopping at the morning market. At sunset, everyone was enjoying the cooler
evening air and riverside restaurants. Tania and I followed suit and ordered various
dishes, all equally delicious.
28
June - Vientiane – Pak Ngum - 71 km
Our
leisurely departure was due to wanting to visit a few attractions. The first
stop was at Pha Luang, Laos’s most important national monument. Legend has it
missionaries from India erected the main stupa to enclose a piece of Buddha’s
breastbone in or around the third century.
Afterwards, a short ride led out of the city and onto rural paths, but not
before stopping to buy baguettes and bananas. Tania pointed out nearly all cars
were new and in the middle to higher price bracket – interesting.
I
loved seeing the temples jutting out of the forest and kids walking to and from
school. Having such a safe environment where kids can get to and from school
independently is refreshing. The day was very much a rice field and buffalo one
as we peddled along, admiring Laos’ scenery, temples, and welcoming people. Upon
spotting lodging, the area was immensely rural, and we called it a day, even
though still early. But looking at the map, there didn’t appear a great deal in
the line of accommodation in the next 100 kilometres. Our abode consisted of
bungalows surrounded by vast green fields and plenty of trees, making it a
lovely relaxing place to spend the remainder of the day.
29
June – Pak Ngum – Paksan – 87 km
The
early morning made a beautiful ride through the countryside with the mountains to
our left and the Mekong River to our right. Now and again, cycling was through
tiny settlements where one could get water or something to nibble on.
At
times our path led close to the river, and other times it headed slightly
inland. Dried and smoked fish stands lined the riverbanks, and sampling these odd
eats was fun. The vendors seemed happy to let us try their produce. What a friendly
nation Laos is. Kids called “Sabai dee!” from their stilted homes and not even
the stray dogs gave chase. Arrival in Paksan was in good time, leaving ample
time to shower and trundle to the river on the hunt to find something to eat.
30
June - Paksan – Vieng Kham – 90 km
We
woke to steady rain and decided to wait and see if the weather would clear. It
cleared around 9h30-10h00, allowing us to set out anew. Unfortunately, the
drizzle continued throughout the day, only clearing around 14h00. Even then, it
was still spitting from time to time. Google Maps were relatively useless in Laos;
and it appeared no Google staff had been to Laos in the past 20 years. I stayed
in Vieng Kham seven years previously but couldn’t find the town on
Google Maps; still, we cycled in that direction.
Tania
didn’t feel well but pushed on regardless; she’s tough. Due to the constant
drizzle, I scarcely took the camera out, but it remained a pleasant day. Farmers
tended their cattle while others planted rice or ploughed the fields. The area
was becoming increasingly rural the further from Vientiane—stalls sold petrol
by the bottle, charcoal, and steamed duck eggs.
The
day was wet and muddy as our path went further south, past bright green rice paddies,
exciting markets, and hospitable folk. Finally, I was delighted to roll into Vieng
Kham. Despite not being on any map, the place was quite sizable and sported a
few options to stay and a few places to eat.
1
July - Vieng Kham - Thakhek – 108 km
The
weather forecast reported rain and thunderstorms the entire day. Fortunately, they
were wrong, and we’d had a great day of cycle touring. The landscape was sublime,
revealing misty mountains in the background and
lush green forests on both sides. As we headed further south, the villages became
smaller and smaller and further and further apart.
Our
path passed vendors selling fruit; a few had stalls while others pushed mobile carts.
Herds of buffalo and cattle grazed on the no-man’s-land along the tarmac. At
the same time, farmers used highly innovative farming equipment. I’m not sure
what it’s called, but I call it a two-wheel tractor and it’s highly versatile.
It can be fitted to various innovative auxiliary equipment, including planting,
threshing, irrigation, and even carts for transporting people. Villagers carried
their wares in woven baskets on their backs and others carried them from straps
around their foreheads.
Markets
were even more fascinating, as they sold items one only read about, from
illegal wildlife to unfamiliar pieces of meat. We couldn’t figure out which
part or from what animal it came. In rice fields, people stood knee-deep in
water, planting rice, and I wondered how their backs felt after a day bent over.
Nearing
Thakhek, we came upon the Great Wall of Laos. This kilometres-long Kamphaeng
Nyak wall is a geological phenomenon caused by fissures. Still, its physical
resemblance to a human-made structure led to many Laos myths about its origin. Some
say it was made as a defence system, and others guessed the wall was used to
stem floodwaters from the Mekong.
Thakhek
offered a hotel across the Mekong River at an incredibly reasonable price. As
usual, we were starving and hurried to a restaurant beside the river where the
food and the views were excellent.
2
July – Thakhek – Savannakhet – 125 km
I
was no ball of energy as I’d hardly slept the previous night. Nevertheless, we
rolled out of Thakhek at around 7h30. The route was pretty undulating and led straight
into the south-westerly breeze. I was in no mood to take pictures
and kept a steady pace, passing markets and heaps of kids, doing what kids do
during school holidays. The schools in Laos have a three-month break during the
rainy season (July to August).
Pedalling
past temples where the monks’ bright orange robes were drying in the breeze made
a pretty picture against the green fields. Butterflies and dragonflies were in
abundance, albeit less forested.
Thirty
kilometres before Savannakhet, a shortcut took 10 kilometres off our intended
route, something we were happy about. Unfortunately, Tania fell off her bike; luckily,
she was fine, apart from a few bruises and a lump on her head. Nevertheless, she
is a tough one. Once in Savannakhet, the Savan Phattha offered convenient
accommodation near the night market and river.
3
July – Savannakhet
A
day of leisure was spent in Savannakhet,
doing laundry and checking out all the attractions and sights in the old city. An
early morning jog led through old Savannakhet, featuring ancient temples and an
ensemble of decaying buildings. Later, I popped in at the dinosaur museum, and while
small, it offered an interesting glimpse at life 110,000,000 years ago. A staff
member gave me a tour and explanation, which was helpful and informative as all
information was posted in Lao and French.
4
July – Savannakhet – Muang Lakhonpheng – 131 km
Anticipating
a long day, we were ready to roll at 7h30. Luckily, it turned out to be an excellent
day, weather-wise. Albeit cloudy, it didn’t rain, and the day came with a
slight breeze on our backs. As the weather was in our favour, we pushed on,
making good use of the favourable conditions.
Surveying
our surroundings, one felt grateful for the opportunity to cycle in this
beautiful country with its generous people. During the rainy season, each man
and his dog planted rice, leaving the daily chores to the smaller kids. I was
amazed at these tiny kids doing tasks I
never dreamt a child twice their age could do. They took over household
responsibilities, from tending cattle to caring for babies. The rice paddies were
a brilliant green, making the colourful temples appear even greener. Water
buffalo grazed lazily while goats and cattle were led off to feed elsewhere.
Wooden houses upon stilts and hammocks swinging in the breeze completed the
picture.
The
map indicated little in the line of accommodation, food, or water. Still, plenty
of villages were encountered—quite a sizable one at around 70 kilometres and
nice-looking digs at approximately 85 kilometres. En route were plenty of
stores and petrol stations to fill the water bottles. A hundred and thirty-one
kilometres later, we cycled into Lakhonpheng (not indicated on the map), which
boasted several guesthouses. Regrettably, the one picked turned out a poor
choice, and Tania wasn’t a happy chappie as the bed was lumpy and the place
offered no Wi-Fi.
5
June – Muang Lakhonpheng - Pakse - 112 km
We
surfaced to rain pelting down and waited until the weather improved. Still, by
08h30, it was clear this wouldn’t happen, so we saddled up our iron horses and
got underway. The rain continued throughout the day, sometimes a drizzle, and
sometimes it came down quite hard. It would’ve been a nice ride if not for grinding
into a gusty breeze. Unfortunately, there wasn’t a great deal one could do but
push on.
Tania
was a real sport, never complained, and stuck to the task. Thirty-five kilometres
into the day, I’d a flat tyre and realised it wasn’t the tube but the tyre
which tore along the side. I fixed the tyre using duct tape, but it only lasted
35 kilometres. Mercifully, this happened right opposite a motorbike repair
shop, and lo and behold, did they not have a used bicycle tyre hanging from the
rafters? I pointed to the tyre and my wheel, and in no time, I’d a new tyre
fitted, all at 20,000 kip. I surmised the tyre was approximately 100 years old
and hoped it would get me to Pakse, still 77 kilometres away.
Our
route continued past pink water buffalo, and I swear it had nothing to do with
drugs or the fact I’d barely drunk any water that day. People sat under their
houses, around small fires hiding from the weather. I loved the smell of the
wet, smoky wood mixed with the scent of damp soil; it’s such an earthy smell.
Ladies
sold a vast and impressive variety of mushrooms. Upon display were big and
small ones, underground and above-ground ones, single ones and ones growing in
clumps, and nearly in all the colours of the rainbow.
We
encountered motorbike salespeople on bikes loaded sky high and Gong Makers,
hard at work. Gongs are the monk’s alarm clocks as they get up at 04h30. First,
they meditate and then walk to collect food. Monks only eat twice a day, and
after their morning meal, they study and clean around the temple. Our day
dragged on, and in the dying moments of the day, we biked into Pakse, located an
abode and headed straight to a restaurant.
7
July – Pakse – Champasak – 55 km
The
rain finally subsided, allowing pedalling the short distance to Champasak.
Bright green rice fields filled our view, and the good rains of the previous
days soaked the fields, ready for planting. Misty mountains featured to our
left, and the Mekong River flowed to our right.
In
Champasak, our abode of choice was an establishment right along the river. We immediately
set off toward the picturesque Vat Phu ruins, dating to the seventh century.
Today, Vat Phu is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a ruined Khmer Hindu temple
complex. The complex has a stunning location at the foothills of Mount Phu Kao,
overlooking the Mekong Valley. We wandered around and then returned to our
humble abode, where we ordered food and sipped a Lao beer while watching the
sunset over the Mekong River.
8-9
July - Champasak - Maung Khong, Don Khong Island - 107 km
Following
breakfast, a muddy track proceeded toward the ferry to the mainland. Although
not a car ferry, one could
push bicycles without a problem. Unfortunately, another muddy, potholed track
led to the main road on the opposite side. Luckily, we escaped much of the rain
as we proceeded south towards the Cambodian border.
Approximately
30 kilometres from the border, a path turned off to where a ferry took people
to the well-known Four Thousand Islands, or Si Phan Don as it’s known in Laos.
This time, the ferry wasn’t as successful as not merely did they overcharge us,
but disembarking was disastrous, and I surmised quite a spectacle. Tania got
off first, but when I tried to push the bicycle off, the boat started moving
away from the shore, and I’d one leg on the boat and one on the shore. I clung to
the bike for dear life while doing the splits. One can only stretch yourself up
to a point. In the end, I landed in the water, but, fortunately, the boatman
caught the bike and managed to get it to shore without too much water damage.
As funny as it was,
I was fuming as all my computer and camera equipment were in those panniers. If
the bike landed in the water, all the equipment would’ve been ruined. But, all’s
well that ends well.
Tania
spotted a lovely guesthouse and a restaurant along the river’s edge, which made
up for the near disaster.
The
following morning, Tania and I woke at the crack of dawn. We followed the villagers
along a muddy track to the morning market, filling our stomachs with delicious
food and fascinating snacks.
The
rest of the day was spent doing little other than enjoying the view and eating.
Then, Tania organised a boat trip along the river. At around 17h00, our boatman
arrived and steered us upriver, past riverside villages and fishermen doing
what fishermen do.
Cambodia
(3)
1
336 Kilometres – 23 Days
10
July – 2 August 2016
10
July - Maung Khong, Laos – Stung Treng, Cambodia – 100 km
“I
feel quite emotional leaving Laos,” Tania said as we continued south toward the
Laos-Cambodian border. The ride to the Laos checkpoint was short, and all were
charged $2 each to leave Laos, which I assumed went straight into the border
official’s pockets. We, nevertheless, claimed poverty, and a long wait later,
our passports were stamped. Next, we scurried off to the Cambodian border,
where officials charged $1 for not having a yellow vaccination card. Then off
to the small blue building
where the visa fee was $35 instead of $30. Too tired to argue, we paid the
money, got the stamp, and made our way to Stung Treng, the next town indicated
on the map.
The
ride from the border was a lovely one through a rural countryside. Despite
being a dirt track, it was in good condition and sprinkled with a few small
stores where one could top up the water bottles. Mercifully, Tania could change
her remaining Lao kip at a petrol station, providing enough local currency to
buy water.
Once
in Stung Treng, we searched out an ATM and, in the process, learned one could only
draw US$. So, with a few dollars in our pockets, we located a guesthouse in the
lively market. Starving, as usual, we couldn’t wait to find food. Sadly, once
booked in, we were told the hotel had no water, and we packed up and searched
for an alternative establishment. Not something one wants to do after a day of
biking.
11
July - Stung Treng – Kratie – 140 km
While
aware it was a long distance to Kratie, our leisurely departure was due to first
wanting to change a few dollars to riel and to pop into the pharmacy. A few
photo stops and 30 kilometres later, I realised we better step on it if we
wanted to make
Kratie before nightfall. The way south led past pyjama-clad women and steamed
duck eggs piled high at makeshift stands, past wooden houses upon stilts where families
seemingly spend their days in hammocks. Welcoming kids called “hello” from
behind banana plants, and villagers extended invitations to share their meals.
Still, we wasted no time as we pushed into the mild headwind. Riding was made
even slower by roadworks and the occasional thunderstorm.
Keeping
a steady pace, we grinded into the weather until reaching the Kratie turnoff. Then,
the heavens opened, forcing us to shelter until the storm blew over. When the
weather cleared, the sun had already set, and we crawled into Kratie in
darkness, trying our level best to avoid the potholes and puddles. The digs were
located right along the river and a relief to unload our sopping wet gear and get
under the shower to wash off the day’s road muck.
12
July - Kratie
Late
morning, we set off by boat up the Mekong River to find the elusive Irrawaddy
dolphins. Great was our excitement when we eventually spotted them.
It’s
said, genetically, these dolphins are closely
related to the killer whale (orca). How interesting. Although sometimes called
the Irrawaddy River dolphin, I understood it isn’t an actual river dolphin, but
an oceanic dolphin that lives in brackish water near coasts, river mouths, and
estuaries. It has established subpopulations in freshwater rivers, including
the Ganges and the Mekong. These dolphins are vulnerable as the worldwide
population only appears to be around 7,000. One more interesting fact is that they
are nearly blind. They have tiny eyes and even lack lenses and can do little
more but distinguish between light and dark.
13
July - Kratie – Stung Trang - 89 km
The
previous night a decision was made to follow the river trail instead of the
main road. So, on a glorious day and in perfect weather, we rode, enjoying fantastic
scenery, hospitable people, exotic food, and unparalleled views of the Mekong.
Our
path led past houses precariously balanced upon stilts, making
one wonder how long they could last. The area was incredibly rural and people
farmed in old-fashioned ways using oxcarts with wooden wheels; kids skipped to
school in a typical childlike fashion and ladies on bicycles sold fresh produce
door-to-door. Rice dried in the sun, and bare-necked chickens darted across the
dusty path. The road passed numerous rivers where fishermen worked hard using
all possible means.
Small
kids called greetings from their stilted houses, and one wondered how many fell
down the rickety stairs. Water was still obtained from a communal well. Carts sold
bananas wrapped in coconut and sticky rice cooked in banana leaves. Vendors
provided sugarcane juice, and we slowly approached the ferry, which took pedestrians
across the river to Stung Trang.
14
July - Stung Trang – Kampong Thom – 97 km
At
short notice, a change of plan was made, opting for Kampong Thom instead of
Kampong Cham. Our chosen route veered slightly west (inland), which became a genuinely
satisfying ride past vast rice fields, stretching as far as the eye could see. The
area was relatively unvisited, and kids retreated a few steps
spotting us. Even the stray dogs scurried away without even as much as a bark. Our
way ran past gigantic rubber plantations and cassava fields until meeting Highway
6.
Still,
it remained a rural area where palm and banana trees surrounded stilted houses.
These homes almost always came with a stack of hay in the front yard and cows
grazing nearby. Most homes featured a “bug catching” device, consisting of a
plastic pond and a fluorescent light to attract bugs at night. One could tell
we were nearing the ancient Khmer stronghold as innumerable signs pointed to ancient
ruins. Finally, we pedalled past dust-covered statue makers, hard at work
making statues for the many temples in Cambodia.
15
July – Kampong Thom – Kampong Kdei – 89 km
On
a day when one could easily say nothing happened, we watched monks in colourful
robes collecting food. Women ploughed fields using old-fashioned oxcarts and could
only be amazed at the friendliness
of the Cambodians. We passed traders pulling carts piled high with beautiful
wooden furniture, and woven baskets, and past motorbikes stacked equally high
with live chickens or pigs.
The
route passed the ever-present wooden houses upon stilts, and we overtook kids on
their way to and from school. Their balance on bicycles is genuinely
extraordinary. Seeing even the smallest kid giving his friend a ride on his
tiny bike isn't unusual. Midday, we encountered a fellow cyclist and chatted
before continuing our quest. Watermelon and coconut juice stands provided much-needed
liquid. Both were refreshing and made us the centre of attention. Finally, our
chosen path spat us out at Kampong Kdei, where we uncovered excellent lodging for
such a small village.
16
July - Kampong Kdei – Siem Reap – 64 km
On
departing Kampong Kdei, we’d cycle through the morning market, a novelty for
the traders and us. Shortly afterwards, we came upon the Kampong Kdei Bridge,
an ancient bridge built between the 11th and 12th centuries. When built, it was
the longest cobblestone-arched bridge in the world. The bridge used to form
part of Highway 6 until 2006. The highway was since diverted but the bridge is
still in excellent condition and used by bicycles and motorbikes.
We
slowly made our way to Siem Reap, sharing our path with herds of cattle and
traders selling all conceivable goods. Although a Saturday, kids were attending
school. The route was lined by stalls selling rice cooked in bamboo or fruit
and vegetables.
Around
15 kilometres from Siem Reap, one could already see old temple ruins. Following
a quick stop, we resumed our ride into Siem Reap. The plan was to stay three
nights as we’d a multitude of things to sort out.
En
route to the night market, I popped into the camera store have my lens fixed. I
hoped they could as it was my favourite lens.
17-18
July - Siem Reap
Two
full days were spent in Siem Reap. Tania investigated Angkor, and I did as
little as possible except the usual housekeeping. I had the bike serviced and
was delighted to find the bill a mere $3. I was equally delighted that the shop
could fix the lens, albeit at a pricy $60. Still, it remained a bargain
compared to a new one.
The
circus turned out an absolute delight. I was thoroughly impressed by their use of
the small space available and how entertaining they were.
19
July - Siem Reap – Battambang – by boat
From
Siem Reap, Tania and I opted for the boat across the Tonle Sap Lake to
Battambang, an enjoyable, albeit long, day. The trip led past numerous floating
villages with police stations, political party offices, restaurants and
schools. These villages resembled traditional villages, apart from everything
floating and kids being able to steer a boat before walking.
Our
boat was old and broke down twice; the empty beer cans under the driver’s seat
didn’t instil much confidence either. Still, the only worrying sight was a crocodile
farm; imagine one of those getting into the rivers where people live, bathe and
work. Albeit enjoyable, all were happy to get off the boat as those benches
became pretty hard, even for seasoned cyclists.
Nevertheless,
Battambang was reached safely, and the many guesthouses made finding lodging
easy. The lively night market provided a meal and Two-and-a-half Street revealed
plenty of pubs where one could’ve a cold beer.
20
July - Battambang – Pursat - 118 km (app 8 km by trolly)
A
dirt track led to the legendary “bamboo train”, which turned out not a train but
a trolly. The trolley wobbled
along a narrow path through the forest; what a fun thing to do. We didn’t go
far and hopped off at the next “station”.
Locating
the way to the main road was equally fascinating. Once at the junction, we pointed
our bikes toward Phnom Penh. Again, scenes of friendly kids, small villages,
and the ever-present rice paddies became a familiar sight. The way passed,
traders loaded with pottery and others carted pigs in woven baskets on
motorbikes. Colourful trucks were poorly loaded, and we debated whether they
would make their destination.
Towards
the end of the day, one could see the weather coming in, and gunned it to
Pursat to escape the approaching storm. Luckily, we made it in time and were
hardly indoors when the storm broke.
21
July - Pursat – Kampong Chhnang – 96 km
“This
is Cambodia, baby!” Tania exclaimed with a smile as she biked out of Pursat in
a cloud of lead-laden fumes from the morning traffic. In the company of motorbikes,
tuk-tuks, cars, busses and water buffalo, we proceeded further south, past the
ever-present steamed pau vendors. Encountering a watermelon cart, we devoured an
entire watermelon. Neither could we cycle past the ice-cream man selling the
unique Cambodian coconut ice cream, served on bread and drizzled with condensed
milk. The dried buffalo meat was different, but we stopped short of purchasing
the fermented ant and ant larvae mix. The weirdest thing encountered was what
we called flying snakes. These snakes dropped from above and once on the ground
slivered into the tall grass. I sure didn’t want any of them landing on me. We
subsequently discovered they were indeed called flying snakes.
22
July - Kompong Chhnang – Phnom Penh - 93 km
One
can be excused thinking, “Nine years of cycle touring, there can’t be a great
deal more to see”. How wrong would that be?
Past
more beautiful rural and ornate monasteries we went, past families planting
rice, and past “petrol stations” where fuel was pumped from a drum, by hand or
sold by the litre in Coke bottles. Slaughtered animals hung from branches; what
animal it was, is still a mystery. Motorbikes and small trucks were piled high
with chickens while farmers walked cattle and buffalo through rivers. Trying to
converse was in vain as English wasn’t well understood in these rural parts.
Eventually,
and in horrendous traffic, we biked into bustling Phnom Penh. Phnom Penh
conjures up romantic and exotic images. Still, a Friday afternoon isn’t the
best time to cycle into any city, and Phnom Penh was no exception. The route
into the city was congested and was made worse by ongoing roadwork. It took
ducking and diving mobile carts and markets, spilling onto the tarmac. Finally,
we slinked into the city centre, where the digs uncovered looked good enough to
stay a week. Time to explore, and we searched for the riverfront and the night market.
The
following day was spent doing the usual rest day tasks and discovering all Phnom
Penh had to offer, including visiting the depressing Killing Fields and Tuol
Sleng Museum. I popped in at the Canon store as I wasn’t happy with the repair
work done in Siem Riep. The verdict wasn’t good and confirmed what I already
knew. The focus was off and the lens could only be calibrated in Singapore. Oh
well, I guess I will pack the lens away until Bangkok.
In
the meantime, I applied for a two-month Thai visa, as I was unsure where I was
heading once Tania returned home. The most exciting thing was buying Tania a
tent. She planned on camping as much as possible for the remainder of her time
in Southeast Asia.
24
July - Phnom Penh – Takeo - 77 km
Leaving
Phnom Penh was a challenging task (traffic-wise), as the
route was chock-a-block with all kinds of vehicles. Stuck in the morning
traffic, we were passed by flatbed tuk-tuks crammed with elderly, toothless ladies
under wide-rim hats and trucks loaded to the hilt with hay, topped with whoever
needed a ride. Commuters laughed and waved, and Tania again exclaimed, smiling,
“This is Cambodia, baby!”
Hours
later, we cleared the city limits and continued toward the Phnom Tamao Wildlife
Rescue Center (PTWRC). Established in 1995, the centre covered over 6,000 acres
of protected, regenerating forest. The Cambodian Forestry Administration runs
the centre in partnership with a non-profit environmental organisation, Wildlife
Alliance. PTWRC currently houses over 1,200 rescued animals from 102 species,
including endangered Asian
elephants, tigers, pileated gibbons, Siamese crocodiles, and Malayan sun bears,
among many others. As this is Tania line of work in South Africa, we stopped to
investigate.
A
good few hours were spent wandering about before returning to the task at hand.
Once again, the roadside stands encountered didn’t disappoint and offered interesting
fruit and BBQ frogs, cockroaches, and crickets. Eventually, we crawled into Takao,
where permission was asked to camp at the monastery. The monks were exceedingly
kind and even suggested sleeping inside the temple. We were happy with the
bucket of water to shower and electrical point to charge whatever needed
charging.
25
July - Takao – Roadside camping – 104 km
By
morning we waved goodbye to the monks and continued past luminous green rice
paddies and piles of coconuts watched over by owners lazily swinging in
hammocks. Duck stalls sold BBQ duck and ducks’ eggs, intestines, and heads.
Nothing goes to waste. Nevertheless, the eggs intrigued us the most.
The
closer to the coast, the hillier our route became. It unexpectedly started
bucketing, and we hurriedly sheltered. Unfortunately, I’d a flat tyre (oh, how
I miss my Schwalbe tyres). Fortunately, it didn’t take long to fix.
Bypassing
Kampot, and almost 15 kilometres further, a sign pointed to Café & Camping,
a foreign concept in Cambodia. What we found was Destan Kilic and Eyup Kostan,
both from Turkey. They travelled by bicycle but sold their bikes in Iran and continued
their travels by public transport. In the meantime, they rented a plot and basic
house and were in the process of making a movie about their adventures. While
doing so, they offered camping and coffee to passers-by.
26
July - Roadside camping - Sihanoukville – 85 km
The
day was marred by malfunctions as Tania’s $20 tent didn’t make it through the
night, and she emerged into a relatively flat tent. Although funny, it remained
a disappointment as we dearly wanted to camp the last stretch of the journey.
So, following coffee, we said goodbye to our lovely hosts and made our way to the
town of Sihanoukville, where I planned to catch a bus to Phnom Penh to collect
my passport and Thai visa.
We
rode past oyster farms and small fishing villages where fishing boats lined the
shore, and past fluorescent green rice fields, and countrywomen guarding their
one and only cow. When my cheap tyre tore along the side, I fixed it using duct
tape, which lasted until the next town, where I, once again, purchased a $5
tyre.
My
sandal also broke and flopped like an old rag. All this happened while the rain
came gushing down. Still, we pedalled over the hills and into touristy
Sihanoukville. Sihanoukville was swarming with tourists and thus home to innumerable
joints to stay, making locating a room effortlessly. After a good scrubbing, we
repacked our panniers and tried to fix Tania’s tent poles the best we could,
but, sadly, to no avail. Nevertheless, I managed glue my sandal, hopefully with
more success than the tent poles.
27
July – Sihanoukville - Phnom Phenh (by bus)
An early
morning bus ride took me to Phnom where the camping shop refunded the money for
the faulty tent. Afterwards I further popped in at the Giant Store and bought a
tyre, a tube and a pair of gloves.
Then,
off to the visa agent, where it was discovered the visa would only be ready at
17h00. The remainder of the day was spent at the mall like a true ex-pat. At
17h00, I picked up the visa and hailed a tuk-tuk to the central market, to
catch the Sihanoukville bus. On arrival, I learned the bus had already departed
and on the back of a motorbike, we gave chase and caught the bus a few
kilometres down the drag. Only in Cambodia!
28
July - Sihanoukville – Sre Ambel – 98 km
By
morning, Tania and I emerged to rain gushing down and waited until the weather subsided.
Finally, the rain eased, but the drizzle continued throughout the
day as we retraced our steps to Veal Renh, from where the road swung west in
the direction of Thailand.
Tania
didn’t feel well and was lethargic as we slowly made our way toward the border,
still a good few days’ pedalling away. Soon it started raining, forcing us to
take cover. On spotting a petrol station, we asked permission to pitch the
tents. The staff was helpful and accommodating, allowing camping at the rear
under a canopy with lights and electrical points.
29
July - Sre Ambel – Andong Tuek – 43 km
As
can be imagined, there’s no sleeping late when overnighting at a gas station. So,
although Tania wasn’t feeling 100%, we made our way to Andong Tuek.
Closer
to the Cardamom mountains, the vegetation became even lusher and greener. At
Andong Tuek, boats headed upriver to the small village of Chi Phat situated in
the Cardamom protected area. Once home to loggers and poachers, Chi Phat is a
community-based eco-tourism centre. I was impressed by how well-organised they
were. Once off the boat, a tourist centre listed all the accommodation and
activities in the area. We opted for a lovely, rustic bungalow and a
one-and-a-half-day trek into the mountains. Supper was a dull affair of rice,
boiled cabbage and goose eggs.
30-31
July – Andong Tuek
Cambodia
continued to surprise us; it’s where cattle have the right of way and people collect
water from a communal well. Small kids, half the size of livestock, herd them
along. I thought this was an extremely responsible job for such tiny kids.
Still, they appeared to take on
responsibilities very young and could ride a motorbike (seemingly) from age
five.
Early
Friday morning, we set off in the company of a guide and cooked into the fabled
Cardamom mountains. At first, the hike took us through a planted forest; a good
thing as well, as no sooner had we left, than my “fixed” sandal broke. Next, our
guide phoned a friend to look in my panniers and bring my sneakers by moto.
It’s extraordinary where Cambodians can go by “moto”. Donning my new shoes, a
short meander led to the forest, a lovely area with streams, rivers, and thick
vegetation.
The
cook quickly had a fire going at our lunch stop to prepare rice and vegetables.
It felt like we’d scarcely arrived and the food
was ready. Our stroll soon resumed, and our guide pointed out beautiful and
exotic plants and insects. Included were a few nasty-looking ones seemingly
waiting for unsuspected hikers (like us) to pounce upon.
Around
16h00, our little group slinked into camp, where we stayed with a family and
hung our hammocks under their wooden house in what I would call their kitchen
area. Although a protected area, people still live and farm along the river. We
swung in hammocks while chickens and dogs scurried about searching for
something to eat and while the family prepared food. The most interesting was
watching them cook. The ingredients consisted of pumpkin flowers, grated bamboo
shoots, loads of chillies, garlic, and other green grasses we didn’t recognise.
The resulting dish was a delicious vegetable soup and, of course, rice.
How
fascinating to watch a slice of Cambodian life play out right before our eyes.
These people lived extremely basic lives without luxuries; everything was used
sparingly. The fire was made using a minimum of wood; they’d no electricity,
running water or toilet. Once dark, all went to bed and we crawled into our
hammocks while listening to the sounds of the forest, a true privilege.
The
following morning, all woke to the crowing of cocks, and albeit still early, there
was no sleeping in as the entire household was already up and busy preparing
the breakfast fire. We were treated
to coffee (which I’m sure was a luxury) as they mainly drank weak tea. After
emerging from her morning ablutions (an experience in itself), Tania mentioned
she’d to use a leaf! Once breakfast was eaten, we waved goodbye to our family
and headed to Chi Phat.
The
hike was beautiful and enjoyable. To me, it’s always a pleasure to be in the
mountains, and I realised again how much I enjoyed walking in the forest. Upon
arrival in Chi Phat, Tania and I headed straight towards the jetty where we
hopped on a boat for the return trip. Sadly, our time was too short, and I wished
I could’ve stayed longer as I was sure there remained plenty more to see. At
the main road, we located digs and prepared for our ride over the mountains the
following day. As Tania wasn’t feeling well, suffering from stomach cramps and
nausea, we hoped she would feel better by morning.
1
August - Sre Ambel – Koh Kong – 43 km (60 km by minivan)
The
following morning however, Tania still suffered a massively bloated stomach, cramps,
nausea and was unable to eat. Still, she insisted on biking and slowly churned
her way up the Cardamom mountains.
Despite
being hilly, the ride was beautiful and 43 kilometres later, another river
appeared, where a few restaurants were scattered along the way. After a rest,
we re-examined our options. Finally, we popped into the small clinic, where the
lady gave Tania two tablets and encouraged her to lie down. Still, there was no
improvement, and I thought it best to take the bus to Koh Kong, which sported a
hospital and accommodation.
After
a long wait, a minivan on its way to Koh Kong provided a ride, and in no time, we
found ourselves in Koh Kong, where the driver dropped us right in front of the
hospital. Once all forms were filled in, Tania was led away to the doctor and returned
sporting a list of medications she’d to collect from the pharmacy. I was thrilled
her disease was identified and the proper medication prescribed.
A
decent room right along the river was our choice, and we settled in to have an
early night, hoping Tania would feel better by morning. Fingers crossed.
Thailand
(8)
428
Kilometres – 5 Days
2
August – 8 August 2016
2
August – Koh Kong, Cambodia – Trat, Thailand – 100 km
The
prescribed $2 drugs worked like a charm, and we rode towards the border, barely
10 kilometres away. The border was hectic and swarmed with tuk-tuks, trucks and
busses, all jostling for position while passing through muddy puddles.
Exiting
Cambodia and entering Thailand were uncomplicated. The stretch to Trat was a
little-visited area offering beautiful beaches
and bays. During the day, we met four Thai cyclists on a two-day ride and
chatted for a while before continuing. Tania returned to her usual energetic
self and made good time, even stopping to have lunch.
It
started raining shortly beyond our lunch stop, making a rain-soaked ride to
Trat, where we arrived sopping wet. Trat was home to a monastery featuring a
lovely jetty along a river. Following much sign language, our request to camp
was granted and we could pitch the tents. Not merely did the jetty have an
excellent view of the river but it also had a canopy, light and electrical
points. The monks offered to lock the gate to the jetty and pointed out the
toilets; how kind of them. We first had coffee and then cooked our noodles, all
while watching the tide come in, covering the surrounding mangroves.
3
August - Trat – Na Yai Am – 111 km
I
surfaced to the sound of crabs scurrying about the mangroves and Tania making
coffee, a pleasant way to greet the day. We planned on reaching Bangkok by the
evening of the 5th, leaving enough time to box Tania’s bike and do last-minute shopping
before her flight to South Africa.
That
night’s camping was at a petrol station with a 7-Eleven and a good night market
right next door. The public toilets at the petrol station provided the
necessary ablutions, and we were as happy as the proverbial pigs.
4
August - Na Yai Am – Anata Nakorn - 135 km
The
ride wasn’t the most exciting. Nevertheless, we pushed onward to put ourselves within
striking distance of Bangkok. Thank goodness cycling was comfortable, the
weather played along, and good time was made in favourable conditions. Anata
Nakorn offered a hotel and we were grateful to have a shower and electrical
points to charge devices.
5
August - Anata Nakorn – Bangkok – 82 km
Being
underway early might not have been the best idea, as the route was congested with
morning traffic. Regrettably, the traffic never improved. Still, we soon
reached the Bangkok city limits from where bumper-to-bumper traffic led into
the capital. In the process, our path took us slap-bang right through the CBD. Concentrating
on the map, watching the traffic, and ensuring I didn’t lose Tania made a
tiring ride. Finally, I was relieved to reach the famous Khao San Road area
from where we had set off almost two months earlier.
We
located a ground-floor room sporting a window, air-con and bike space;
something always considered a bargain. So came to an end Tania’s cycle tour of
Southeast Asia. I was pretty chuffed that it all went well and that the plan
came together.
6
August - Bangkok
The
following day, we had loads to do. So Tania boxed her bike, and I searched for
new panniers (as stuff started falling out of the holes of the old ones).
Finally, I handed in my camera and lenses to be re-calibrated, which would take
two weeks.
7
August - Bangkok
I
was once again in awe of Bangkok. As we took the river taxi, I watched in
amazement at what was happening around me. Colourful longtail boats stood in
sharp contrast to old wooden shacks. Askew buildings sat snuggly beside modern
skyscrapers, and ferries dodged slow-moving barges heading upstream. We zoomed
past colourful and ornate temples where traders sold noodle soup and skewers of
chicken asses to passers-by.
We
jumped off at the Taksin jetty and hopped on the Skytrain into the heart of the
city. All in search of the Canon repair centre, in the MBK building.
Fortunately, the sky train stopped right outside the mall. Once all was done, it
was back on the Skytrain to the Amarin Plaza, where K-Trade, the outdoor
specialist’ sold Ortlieb bags. I bought two brand-new, luminous green panniers,
followed by a treat of coffee and a massive slice of cheesecake. By evening, Tania
and I sought out Chinatown and the Hau Seng Hong Restaurant, which sold the
best dim sum in Bangkok. We ate so much we could barely run towards the tuk-tuk
when it started raining.
The
8th arrived far too soon, and time for Tania to return home. Sadly, shortly
after handing in my camera and lenses, I received an email from Canon stating
the repair would take three weeks.
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