173 CYCLE TOURING CAMBODIA (10)

 173 CYCLE TOURING CAMBODIA (10)
2 October - 19 October 2024
1 042 Km – 17 Days

MAP

 

 

2-3 October - Muang Khong - Stung Treng - 100 km

I began my day with a steaming cup of coffee as I prepared for my ride across the bridge to join Route 13 South. Despite the brisk wind tugging at my clothes, I felt a surge of excitement at the prospect of returning to Cambodia after nearly five years when I cycled the country with my friends Megan, Erma, and Janice.

The process of getting stamped out of Laos turned out to be surprisingly straightforward, despite the border post's notorious reputation for bribery. The officers requested a $2 stamp fee, but I firmly declined, and they didn't push the issue. The Cambodian immigration process was much smoother, and I paid the $35 visa fee before resuming my journey.

The road leading south was in a sorry state due to ongoing repairs, covered in a thick layer of gravel that made cycling a challenge. Fortunately, motorbikes had carved out a single track next to the road. Although signs periodically indicated the "End of road work," the gravel would quickly reappear, and I kept reassuring myself with the mantra, "This too shall pass."

On a more positive note, I had the pleasure of meeting another cyclist from Japan who was also on a cycling adventure through Asia. I also discovered that Cambodia was in the midst of celebrating Pchum Ben, or the Festival of the Ancestors, one of the country's most significant and grandest festivals. I caught glimpses of the festivities, witnessing two-wheel tractors laden with villagers passing by in the opposite direction.

By the time I arrived in Stung Treng, it was late, and I struggled to find a hotel with available rooms, most likely due to the festivities. I settled for one that offered an air-conditioned room with a window for $12, but I found the cleanliness lacking, and I wondered if my frugality was worth it.

I decided to stay in Stung Treng the next day to withdraw Cambodian Riel or Khmer Riel (KHR) (4 000 KHR = 1 US$), a SIM card, and take care of a few other things.

 

4 October – Stung Streng – Preah Vihear – 140 km

I felt remarkably energetic, and the weather and the road were good. As a result, I pushed on. I forgot just how scenic Cambodia is. Numerous unusual sights kept me occupied, and I again realised just how comfortable the Cambodians are on a motorbike, as twice I saw people returning from the clinic with an IV drip bag on a stick attached to their arm.

I don't know what was in the drink I bought from a roadside vendor as I was so energetic that I cycled the 140 km to Preah Vihear. Once there I was more than happy to find Javier Guest House, which has a lovely large room for only $7.

 

5 October – Preah Vihear – Phumi Moreal, Heng Heng Guest House – 83 km

I wasn’t all bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, and my morning search for a baguette revealed nothing, so I got on the road and headed toward Siam Reap. Again, the scenery was unsurpassed, and it turned out to be a lovely day of riding. Sixty km later, I came upon Koh Ker, a UNESCO World Heritage and Archaeological Site. This Ancient capital of the Khmer Empire between 921 and 944 CE is now partially hidden in a dense forest; I dropped my bags at a guesthouse and went exploring. It was after six p.m. that I returned and headed straight to a restaurant, starving.

 

6 October – Phumi Moreal – Siam Reap – 100 km

It rained throughout the night, and I could still hear it pouring when I woke up. I stayed in bed with a coffee and played on my phone until I heard that the rain subsided. It was thus late morning by the time I saddled my old iron horse for the ride to Siam Reap. I felt immensely happy to be on the bike, pedalling down a rural road. The sound of children calling “Hello Farang” always brought a smile to my face, their voices blending with the sound of cattle. If you didn’t respond, they would keep calling louder and louder, their excitement echoing through the countryside.

This is such a rural part of Cambodia that, at times, I could imagine I'm on a different planet. By the time I neared touristy Siam Reap, I was somewhat taken aback by the urgency of the drivers and the chaotic dance of traffic, which sharply contrasted with the peaceful countryside. Still, I joined this dance and made my way to Smiley Guesthouse, which has ground-floor budget rooms and a swimming pool. It’s a good place to lay low, and I paid for three nights.

On stepping out, I thought I could easily spend the three days eating as the aroma of the local delicacies wafted through the air. I imagined myself exploring all the culinary delights of the area.

The following day, I took the bicycle to the bike shop to be cleaned and oiled. I was shocked at the prices in Siam Reap. When prices are quoted in US$, you know you have been overcharged. So, nothing much came of eating at all the restaurants that looked so inviting the previous evening as they were clearly priced with tourists in mind. Eventually, I grabbed a baguette with egg and salad from a mobile vendor at less than half the price at the sit-down restaurants. I also handed in my laundry to get a proper machine wash as it’s a fee I never complain about.

 

9 October Siam Reap – Stoung – 102 km

I made a bit of a detour because I didn’t want to cycle along the main road, but the minor road I chose soon spat me out on the main road south. I guess I’ll never get used to Cambodia's ingenious means of transport. There is nothing they cannot transport by bicycle or a two-wheel tractor.

Once away from Siam Reap, the road was quiet and a pleasure to cycle. The rain lasted no more than 10 minutes, and soon, the sun was shining bright again. I met the nicest people; a man stopped and handed me a Pocari Sweat. How nice was that? Later, I stopped to take a break and met a mum and her daughter who could speak some English. She was ever so helpful, and we took a few selfies.

I was on the old Khmer highway between Angkor and Phnom Penh. It's a new road today, but surprisingly, the Kampong Kdei Bridge is still in use. Built in the 12th century, Spean Praptos, also known as Kampong Kdei Bridge, used to be the longest corbeled stone-arch bridge in the world, with over twenty narrow arches spanning 87 metres.

I arrived in Stoung around four p.m. It is a typical Cambodian small town with a market, a temple, muddy roads, a petrol station, bug vendors, and the ever-present mobile food carts. My guest house cost 8 Dollars, and the room was as big as a dancehall. Taking the stir my presence created, I didn’t think a farang had ever stayed at this establishment; great was my surprise thus when I discovered a young American lady also staying at the guesthouse and travelling by bicycle. She was heading to Siam Reap and this was her fourth day on her first cycling holiday.

 

10 October - Stoung – Won With Guest House – 110 km

In a 2021 survey, it was found that approximately 63 percent of households in Cambodia are engaged in agricultural production. It's thus common to see wooden houses on stilts with chickens, buffalos, cows, palm and mango trees next to rice fields. Today, I came across many "Ambok" or flattened rice producers along the road. The rice seemed to be first roasted in a pan with a mechanical stirrer, then pounded in a wooden bowl and separated from the husk in a sieve. During the rice harvest, some rice is specially prepared for certain Khmer ceremonies and family gatherings. I regret not buying any, but hopefully, I'll find them again tomorrow. After 110 km, I found Win With Guesthouse, a perfect spot midway between Phnom Penh and Stoung. Once again, the experience of finding food was fascinating and amusing.

 

11 October – Win With or Von Vith guest house - Phnom Penh 110km

The ride to Phnom Pehn was surprisingly easy, as it is a new road. Still, it was pretty boring, and I believe that my ride along the river trail was far more interesting. However, it was easy riding, although not much happened except for stopping at Skun, known as Spider Village. The reason is that it’s a place well known for the exotic cuisine of tarantulas. Vendors sold deep-fried tarantulas coated in garlic and chillies, and although the aroma was appetising, I don’t think I can ever get myself to eat a tarantula. The last stretch into the capital was easy-going except for the chaotic traffic. I rarely made a booking, but this time I did, and as always, it was a total disaster, and I didn’t stay at the place booked. I, however, easily found a room as just about every second building in Phnom Pehn is a guesthouse.

I stayed in Phnom Penh for three nights as I quite like the place, and I had the usual housekeeping to attend to. I also met up with Matt, a friend for many years and we had supper at the Addis Restaurant. I love Ethiopian food, and the food at Addis is excellent and it made for a lovely and relaxing evening.

 

14 October – Phnom Penh – Krong Doun Kaev – 103 km

As I left the bustling city of Phnom Penh, I found myself navigating through the chaotic Monday morning traffic. It always takes some time to adjust to the constant flow of vehicles and the need to trust the traffic around me. Once I cleared the city limits, I followed a narrow path along the serene Bassac River. A sign directed towards Chisor Mountain Temple caught my eye, prompting me to change my course to the west. To my delight, I stumbled upon the ancient ruins of this 11th-century temple perched high on a hill, accessible by a lengthy staircase. Despite the heat and swarms of mosquitoes, I persevered and was delighted to reach the remains of this old temple. However, my battle with the mosquitoes eventually forced me to cut my visit short. By the time I finished, it was already late afternoon, but I decided to cycle to the next village, which was only 30 km away.

 

15-17 - October – Krong Doun Kaev – Kampot - 86 km

Again, the Main Road to Kampot was a dead boring affair. That said, the road was new, wide and in good condition, so I shouldn’t complain. It’s just that I don’t like such predictability. In any event, I stuck to the main road and soon landed in the lovely riverside town of Kampot. I’ve visited Kampot on many occasions and this time I chose to stay in the village. Good Morning Kampot Guesthouse was an ideal place to stay as it was slap bang in the centre and right on the river. It also offered spacious budget rooms on the upper floors with a restaurant below. Reviews stated that the food was excellent; I think whoever made those comments must have been British, as the food was so bland that I had to ask for a portion of fresh chillies to make it more palatable. LOL

I paid for two nights and was thus slow to rise the following morning. With no plans for the day, I handed in my laundry as whenever I have a chance of having my laundry done for a dollar, I can’t resist. I did truly little the rest of the day except visit the Kampot market as no one can be in Kampot and not go to the market or buy the famous Kampot pepper, known as the best pepper in the world.

I was up early to collect my laundry, but the lady couldn’t find it and asked that I return later. There wasn’t much to do in Kampot, so I took my bicycle and cycled to the old fishing village on the opposite side of the river. Much later, I returned and was happy to find that my laundry was located. I was so happy that I treated myself to Nachos & Gaugamela in Kampot Alley, where noodles are still handmade, and something is always steaming in a pot.

 

18 October – Kampot – Srae Ambel – 108 km

After doing almost nothing for two full days, I felt pretty energetic and was eager to get underway. I had no specific plan and contemplated going to Sihanoukville.

The day started with a lovely scenic ride, and I was happy to be out on the bike. This euphoria, however, came to a grinding halt when the paved road abruptly disappeared after approximately 25 km. It was not a disaster until I realised this was no ordinary dirt road but one that had been neglected for years, and I thought it resembled a minefield (not that I knew what it looked like). In any event, I persevered, bouncing over the potholes and slip-sliding through the muddy patches. Conditions worsened as the day progressed, and I had my eye set on the junction 20 km away, believing conditions would improve from there. I clawed onto the handlebars for dear life, and after 5 km, I stopped to take a breather, feeling happy I managed 5 km. My wrists and arms felt shaky, but I returned to the bike, determined to reach the main road. And so it went until I reached the junction.

It was already quite late, and instead of going to Sihanoukville, I decided to head straight to Srae Ambel. You can imagine my surprise when I found the road (although paved) in dreadful condition, busy and narrow. So narrow was the road that two trucks could barely pass one another, let alone avoid bicycles or motorbikes. Motorbikes mainly used the no-man’s land next to the paved road, and I followed suit. This was no easy ride as the no-man’s land wasn’t meant for vehicles and was by then potholed and muddy. I was in this mess and had to persevere. The continuous rain didn’t make the ride any more manageable. Once, I stopped for coffee to get out of the rain and rest my wrists, but I still had a way to go and soon got back on the bike.

A new road was in the process of being constructed, which made the way one huge construction site. The hills encountered at the end of the day left me gasping for air, but I pushed on, and 5 km from Srae Amble, the weather came in again, and I pedalled like a woman possessed to reach the town before the storm broke. I reached the town just as raindrops started falling and pulled into the nearest Guest House. I was relieved I made it but soon discovered it was a brothel, LOL, not that I could care less as I was far too tired to be concerned about that.

 

19 October - Srae Ambel - Koh Kong – by bus

I was optimistic about the new road leading to the border being completed, but unfortunately, that wasn't the reality. Despite my determination to continue, the mud clogged the chain and gears, forcing me to stop and clear the wheels. What a mess! Seeking advice on the road conditions ahead, I stopped at a roadside eatery, only to be informed that the road was impassable for a bicycle. Although I usually take such warnings lightly, I decided to heed the advice this time. I was directed to a bus, where I was surprised to find no seats, just an open space. As we traversed the bumpy road, the driver and his companion were incredibly amiable, even buying me a coffee and offering water and a baguette. Initially told that the journey would take seven hours to cover 125 km, I was relieved when we arrived in Koh Kong after just 5 hours. I paid the driver 50,000 riel for the ride, which I thought was a bargain. He seemed content with the payment and even offered me change, which made me chuckle. Afterwards, I cycled around town searching for budget accommodation and found Rene’s Pasta Bar & Guesthouse, which offered a fan room for only $11. The room was sparkling clean, the staff helpful, and the food delicious. I couldn’t be happier.

 

CYCLE TOURING THAILAND

KOH KONG – PATTAYA

20 OCTOBER – 23 OCTOBER

4 DAYS – 355 KM

 

20 October – Koh Kong – Trat – 100 km

I had a slow start this morning. Every task seemed to drag on forever, and I even considered staying another day. However, since my bags were packed, I decided to cycle to the money exchange and convert my remaining Cambodian Riel to Thai Baht. The distance to the Cambodia-Thailand border was only about 10 km, but by the time I left the immigration office, it was already past 12. I felt completely drained and lacked the energy for the 90 km ride to Trat. The route to Trat was quite hilly, and my legs were not cooperating. Despite this, I persevered, knowing it was a beautiful ride on a well-maintained road. I entertained the idea of settling for a roadside motel, but I daydreamed so much that I suddenly realised I was only 30 km away from Trat. Fifteen km from Trat, the sky darkened, and someone jokingly shouted, "Rain is coming!" Before I knew it, it was dark and raining; I couldn't help but think I must be crazy. However, at that point, I had no choice but to keep going. It was a nerve-racking experience. Eventually, I arrived in Trat and had to walk the bike through the darkness and rain, searching for a guesthouse. Finally, I spotted one and knocked on the already closed door. Being incredibly kind, the owner let a drenched farang (me and my bicycle) into his guesthouse. The room was available for just $7, and I couldn't believe my luck. The room was quite colourful. 🤣🤣🤣

 

21 October - Trat – Chantaburi – 70 km

Even though this is usually a pleasant ride, I was not in the mood for cycling, but knew it had to be done. Fortunately, the ride was short, and the weather perfect, making biking easy. I chose a pleasant route through old hamlets and passed even older temples. I love these country lanes. My arrival in Chanthaburi was just as a few raindrops started falling and checked into the nearest hotel. The Muangchan Hotel is hidden but offers ground-floor rooms at 350 THB. I would have easily paid more to avoid carrying my panniers up a floor or two. Later, I strolled to the night market, always a fascinating affair, but it remained virtually impossible to find vegetarian food.

 

22 October – Chantaburi – Rayong - 115km

I didn't want to be back in Thailand and wasn't keen on the ride to Pattaya. Still, I thought it best to extend my non-immigrant visa as it's a pretty handy visa. It's not that this part of Thailand isn't interesting; it's just that I've cycled it too many times, and it's never nice to return to where you started just a few months ago. Anyway, I reluctantly made my way in that direction and, after 115 km, arrived in Rayong, where I cycled straight to Richy Grant Guesthouse. It's easily the cheapest accommodation in town and comes with washing machines, which is always a bonus. I've been here so many times, the owner gave me a discount on the room. LOL.

 

23 October – Rayong – Jomtien, Pattaya – 70 km

Instead of taking my usual coastal route, I took the main road and cycled (almost) nonstop to Jomtien where I arrived hungry because I didn't stop for food. I eventually found my key, which I had forgotten what I had done with. Everything was exactly as I left it, except for a layer of dust, which didn't bother me too much. It was good to have a decent shower, coffee, and beer. I decided to do the laundry later. While hanging out the laundry, I heard someone call my name. Leo and Sammy were on their way to the Corner Bar, so I went downstairs to join them for a cold one.

 

24 October – Jomtien

I did nothing productive all day except watch the robot vacuum, sweep, and mop, LOL. However, I did walk across the road to the day market to stock up on eggs and potatoes, as putting eggs in a steamer and a potato in the microwave is pretty straightforward. By late afternoon, I strolled to the beach, and it was a real privilege. I sat on the sand, scolding myself for feeling restless, when I should be grateful for the opportunity to have just completed a lovely circular route in Southeast Asia through three countries in 8 leisurely weeks, covering 3,371 km.

172 Cycle Touring Laos (9)

                                    

   Cycle Touring Laos (9) 2024
13 September – 2 October 2024
964 Kilometres – 19 Days

MAP

 

13 September – Nong Khai, Thailand – Vientiane, Laos – 29 km

As it was drizzling, I was in no hurry to get underway, so I chatted with the lady who owned the guesthouse. Eventually, I left and cycled to the Thailand immigration office, where checking out was easy. Entering Laos was slightly more complicated as I needed a visa, which usually is a breeze, but this time, they charged me $50 instead of $30. This was a scam, but there was little one could do about it, as it’s the immigration office.

Pissed off, I cycled into the city, and with the result, almost everything after that pissed me off. Still, I strolled to the riverfront, which was nearly flooded, as the Mekong was in full flood. Lots have changed since I was here six years prior, some for the better and some not.

 

14 September – Vientiane

I woke to a drizzle, a drizzle which continued throughout the day. Later, I grabbed the umbrella and searched for a lens cap for my camera, which I lost the day before. It just wasn’t my day. I also wanted to get another mirror for the bicycle as I was in a country that drove on the opposite side of the road to Thailand. These two simple tasks kept me busy almost the entire day. In the process, I strolled past some of the oldest temples in Laos and numerous eateries, all offering traditional Lao food as well as international cuisine. Still, mostly, there was the ever-present baguette, which I enjoyed.

 

14 September – Vientiane – Pak Ngum – Dokphet Hotel. – 78 km

I woke to a bright, sunny Sunday morning and hurriedly packed up. My urgent departure was twofold: I wanted to get underway before more rain set in and before Vientiane woke up. Seeing I was early, I decided to swing by Buddha Park, situated just outside town on the banks of the Mekong River. The previous time I went there, it was along a terribly potholed dirt road, and I wasn’t sure I could get there, taking the rain of the past few days.

I was, therefore, surprised to find a new paved road and was grinning from ear to ear. Soon, however, I noticed the flooding, and most structures between the road and the river were already underwater. Thus, it was no surprise to find Buddha Park nearly completely submerged. Still, I continued along the new road, even though I was unsure if it would lead me to Route 13, the main road south to Cambodia. I sure hoped so, as I didn’t want to land on a muddy dirt track.

You may wonder why I didn’t just ask the people if the road to Route 13 was paved. I did try a few times, but they just smiled politely. The signs of flooding increased, and I noticed that the Military was called in to try and stem the flood waters by packing sandbags along the road. Still, the road was flooded in places, but I could get through. Eventually, I was delighted to find that the road spat me out on Route 13. My delight was short-lived as it was in such poor condition that it was downright dangerous. Not only is it a busy, narrow road, jampacked with busses, trucks, and cars, but the road has fallen in disrepair and now sports potholes the size of small cars. I kid you not! Luckily, I caught up with a “two-wheel tractor,” for lack of a better word, and sat in his slipstream for a few kilometres until he turned off.

The ride was stressful, and there was no time to enjoy the scenery, so when I spotted the Dokphet Hotel, I pulled in even though it was only 15h30. I needed to get my head around this road. The room was cheap as chips at 150,000 LAK (Lao kip) or $6.75. It is large and clean, and the complex is situated in a large, lush garden. With a restaurant just outside the complex, it was a real bargain. I felt that I would deal with the dreaded Route 13 the next day.

 

16 September - Pak Ngum, Dokphet Hotel – Paksan, BK Guesthouse – 86 km

I set out anew and was ready to tackle that horrid road. A massive storm came in during the night, which meant the potholes were filled with water and branches were strewn all over the road. It was a complete nightmare as I waded through the water, not knowing if large potholes were waiting to swallow me. In these flooded areas, it was better to wait and watch the cars and motorbikes to determine the best route to take. You can just imagine my delight when 10 kilometres down the drag, I reached a brand-new road. Hallelujah! I've never loved a road as much as that one! From then on, biking was easy, and I could enjoy the quintessential Laos scenery of farmlands (now flooded) with misty mountains in the distance.

Most rural people could be seen in the flooded areas, fishing net in hand and calling, “Sabai-dee, felang!” (Hello, foreigner!) on spotting me. The Laotians are gentle and very kind. Thus, there was no chance of a quick water stop as it usually comes with a photo shoot of the children. Even the shy ones will come closer. Too cute.

On reaching Paxan, I investigated a guesthouse indicated on the map. Again, the lady was super friendly. The little bungalow cost a mere 100,000 LAK (US$4.50) and came with air conditioning and a hot water shower (not that I needed a hot shower). Considering it a bargain, I stayed put.

 

17 September - Paksan, BK Guesthouse – Vieng Kham, Khamphone Keokhamphan Guest House - 90 km

On a beautiful, overcast morning, I set out to enjoy the mild weather. The road was in good condition, although the shoulder was, at times, pretty narrow. Still, it was easy cycling, and I enjoyed the scenery. I was again amazed at how easily the country folk adapted to the flooding. Each household had a boat, and even the youngest child could row.

I'm used to cycling through these villages, with a few young ones giving chase on their bicycles until a flip-flop or pedal comes off. I find it amusing that, nowadays, they give chase on an electric scooter! How times are changing.

I reached Vieng Kham around midday, and although early, I stayed the night. The room was even cheaper, at 80,000 LAK, but by far, it was not as nice as the previous night.

 

18-19 September – Vieng Kham – Thakhek -104 km

I had an incredibly restless night. I had just settled into bed around midnight when I was startled awake by an unexpected knock on the door at 1 a.m. It turned out to be a mistaken visit, but the adrenaline rush kept me wide awake. Unable to fall back asleep, I whiled away the early hours watching YouTube until I finally managed to turn off the lights at 3 a.m. My attempts to rest were further thwarted as I found myself awake before 6 a.m., lying in bed and listening to the relentless drumming of heavy rain outside. The downpour finally relented around 9 a.m., and I got underway.

By 10 a.m., I was drenched in sweat, labouring up the little inclines. After covering about 50 kilometres, it dawned on me that I desperately needed to stop and refuel, having had very little sleep and no breakfast. If I wanted to reach Thakhek, sustenance was a must. Following an omelette on rice at a local restaurant, the weather took a turn, and I encountered road construction with ominous clouds looming in the distance. Thankfully, the roadwork concluded after five kilometres, and the threatening clouds dissipated.

It was a stunning journey, with the magnificent Annamite Range always gracing my left side. Stretching across approximately 1,100 kilometres through Laos, Vietnam, and a small region in northeast Cambodia, the range offered a breath-taking display of typical Vietnamese scenery.

I rolled into the riverside town of Thakhek at around 5 p.m., secured an affordable room at the Mekong Hotel, and settled into a family room on the ground floor. Famished, I dined at the hotel's outdoor restaurant, savouring the view of the swift-flowing Mekong River and the sparkling city lights of Thailand.

 

20 September – Thakhek – Roadside Guesthouse – 75 km

I didn’t get underway until almost eleven, as it had rained nonstop since early evening the previous day. Eventually, I cycled out of Thakhek, and my decision to take the river road was clearly wrong. With all the rain, the road was one muddy, potholed mess, which slowed the ride to five kilometres in 30 minutes. Needless to say, it was frustrating, not to mention exhausting. There wasn’t anything one could do so I pushed on as best I could. It’s only 120 kilometres to Savannakhet, but after 75 kilometres and spotting a guesthouse, I called it a day as rain once more set in.

The lady charged me 100,000 LAK for the room, and I surmised I was overcharged. I guess she looked at this mud-covered person and thought that cleaning the room would be a whole day's affair. I wasn’t going to argue, as any room at $4.50 is a bargain. The only drawback was that the area was somewhat remote, and no food vendors were nearby. Thus, I hauled out the instant noodles I kept for such situations and went to bed early.

 

September 20 -21 - Roadside guesthouse - Savannakhet – 45km

I wasn't full of energy when I left my roadside accommodation, but luckily the road conditions improved. They weren't perfect, but they were better than the previous day.

I arrived in Savannakhet early, which gave me enough time to look for a few items I might need further south. There seemed to be few shopping facilities in the 460 kilometres between Savannakhet and Stung Treng in Cambodia, so it was best to stock up.

 

There's not much to do in Savannakhet, but I quite liked its collection of decaying French colonial buildings. However, at sunset, the town came alive with food stalls along the riverfront, and it was hard to believe it was the same place. I considered staying another day as I never got a chance to clean my muddy cycling gear or bicycle, and with a 30-day visa, there was no need to rush anywhere.

Between 1964 and 1973, the USA conducted one of the largest sustained aerial bombardments in history, flying 580,344 missions over Laos and dropping two million tonnes of bombs, costing US$2.2 million a day. Around 30% of the bombs dropped on Laos failed to detonate, leaving the country littered with unexploded ordnance (UXO). For people all over eastern Laos (the most contaminated provinces being Xieng Khuang, Salavan, and Savannakhet), living with this appalling legacy has become an intrinsic part of daily life.

Hence, I stayed on the well-trodden path. I know it didn’t look like it, but at least I was on a road of sorts. I downloaded the book "The Ravens: The True Story Of A Secret War In Laos" and I guessed it was going to be a late night for me. I decided to do my laundry the next day. LOL.

The following day it rained nonstop, and I did little else but read and eat. I quite liked that. By late afternoon, the rain subsided and I walked out in search of more food.

 

23 September – Savannakhet – roadside accommodation – 107 km

Well-fed I biked out of Savannakhet despite the weather app predicting rain and thunderstorms. Luckily, the bad weather never materialised, and I enjoyed a pleasant overcast ride.

It was evident that it was the rainy season as I passed roadside stalls selling bamboo shoots, mushrooms, and lotus seeds. I also saw women walking their water buffalo to greener pastures and villagers fishing in the rice paddies, creating a typical Laos scene. Watching children play soccer among the cattle reminded me of Africa.

Around four o’clock, I spotted a guesthouse and called it a day. Since it was a roadside guesthouse, there wasn't a restaurant nearby. However, the person managing the guesthouse kindly went on his motorbike to get me a meal. It was quite interesting, to say the least. LOL. At least it came with a generous portion of rice, which would suffice until I found something in the morning.

 

24 September – Ying Luck Guest House - Bounmyxay Hotel – 74 km

I pedalled out of my overnight accommodation on a wet and overcast morning. Despite the weather, I felt happy to be on a bicycle with no particular destination in mind. It is such a privilege. I smiled at the typical scenes of Laos with cattle and herds of goats blocking the road. However, that came to an abrupt end when I encountered the dreadful potholes, causing traffic to move at a snail's pace. I think I found it easier to navigate on a bicycle. Nevertheless, I was amazed at the motorbike salespeople selling almost anything imaginable from a bike.

Realising that I hadn't had breakfast, I stopped for a bite to eat, which turned out to be an interesting affair, to say the least. At times, I felt it was more interesting for the staff than for me, as they hardly took their eyes off me. I must have made quite a sight.

With a full belly, I continued my journey, passing by raging rivers, luminous green rice fields, and the ever-present ornate temples until I spotted a hotel. Although it was still early, I decided to stop for the day to avoid getting caught in the afternoon storms. And because I did that, it never rained.

 

25-27 September - Bounmyxay Hotel – Pakse 64 km

When I woke, the nightly storm had passed, and I headed out into a wonderfully fresh morning, which made me smile. Energetic children greeted me with "Sabai-dee!" from their stilted homes.

The road was peppered with roadside markets selling bamboo shoots, freshly picked mushrooms, eels, and skewered grilled frogs and snails. Aided by a slight tailwind, I arrived in Pakse early and had plenty of time to find a place to stay. I think I found the best place in town. Kaemse Guest House is right on the Ex Don River, just before it flows into the Mekong, and at US$6 per night, I paid for two nights. At sunset, I sauntered along the bank of the Mekong and found the riverfront festive with the usual kiddie's carnival and food vendors.

I shouldn't have said the guesthouse is the best in town, as the room needed a serious scrubbing. So, I walked to the local convenience store and bought a bathroom cleaner and a can of insect repellent. LOL. Gosh, I sure stay in some weird places.

Seeing that I had paid for two nights, I slept in as I could feel a cold coming on and spent most of the day organising my photos, which were in quite a mess by then.

 

28 – 29 Pakse – Muang Champassak – 45 km

The journey to Champassak was relatively short, only 35 kilometres. I stopped in Champassak to visit the UNESCO World Heritage site of Vat Phou. Although the ride was short, it was enjoyable, and the guesthouse I chose was so charming that I decided to stay for two nights. Instead of heading straight to the ruins, I cycled the Rice Field Trail, which seemed quite pleasant. Everything was going well for about five kilometres until the path turned into a clay pit, and I decided to turn back. Luckily, the guesthouse had a garden hose where I could wash off most of the clay. What a mess!

The next day, I cycled 10 kilometres to explore the remains of the ancient city, an excursion that kept me occupied the entire morning. I especially enjoyed climbing the hill to reach the highest level, where I was rewarded with a breath-taking panoramic view of the fields below. It's truly remarkable what they constructed on such a steep slope.

About a kilometre south lay the ruins of Prasat Hong Nang Sida, and I decided to head in that direction. As I made my way, I was accompanied by a lively seven-year-old girl who acted as my impromptu tour guide. She chattered animatedly in Lao throughout our walk, and although I couldn't understand her words, her enthusiasm and gestures indicated she was giving me historical information. Upon reaching the temple, which was being renovated, she sweetly took my hand, seemingly to ensure safety as we navigated the area. On our way back, she skipped ahead and picked us each a lotus leaf to shield us from the sun. How cute is that?

 

30 September - Muang Champassak – Do Khong island – 112 km

I started my day early, taking advantage of the dry weather. However, the day turned out to be slower than expected. I first had to cross the Mekong River by cycling to the Temple, from where wooden boats ferried passengers across the river. I was initially worried about getting my bicycle and bags onto the small boat, but after seeing them load motorbikes, I felt more at ease. We crossed the river without any issues.

Once on the main road, I enjoyed the beautiful scenery, despite feeling a bit under the weather. I observed young boys fearlessly jumping off a high bridge and also stopped at a roadside store for a noodle soup lunch, where I sat under strings of drying meat. Dark clouds appeared, and I anticipated getting caught in a storm. Shortly after, I heard a loud clap of thunder and sought shelter in an abandoned structure.

Upon reaching the ferry port to Si Phan Don, or the Four Thousand Islands, I was informed that there were no boats available. Unsure if it was due to the river being in flood, I found a bridge a few kilometres further south. Si Phan Don is a riverine archipelago in the Mekong River in southern Laos, known for its numerous islands and beautiful landscape. I decided to stay an extra day to update my journal, do the usual housekeeping and spend my remaining Lao kip before crossing the border, as it’s a currency that’s pretty useless anywhere else.

 

171 THAILAND - The South Coast and Beyond

 171 THAILAND 
The South Coast and Beyond – 2024

PHOTOS

THAILAND (22.2) – The South Coast

305 Km - 4 Days

10 July – 20 July 2024

 

July 10 - Pattaya – Rayong – 62 km

I was ready surprisingly early. Perhaps it was because I wasn’t embarking on a long journey, just a 10-day adventure before Dawn arrived on the 20th. I couldn’t wait for her visit and the fun activities we had planned (definitely not cycling, LOL). My time in Thailand was drawing to a close. I didn’t want to jinx it but, hopefully, I'll be able to leave Thailand (as much as I love it) before the year ends. Being holed up in nothing more than a hotel room for such a long time is challenging.

As I pedalled out of Jomtien, I couldn't help but chuckle. There's always an exhilarating feeling when I set off towards an unknown destination, even if the area is familiar. Despite the overcast weather, I daydreamed so much that I hardly took any pictures. Most of my time was spent figuring out my new Garmin watch. I still don’t know why I thought getting it was a good idea. It's too complicated, and I don't see much difference from my inexpensive Xiaomi Redmi watch. Oh well, what's done is done, and I'll have to make it work.

Reaching Rayong, I decided it was time to call it a day, mainly because the Richy Grant guesthouse is cheap as chips and provides washing machines and filtered water. Plus, there's a night market nearby! Before heading to the market, I should have grabbed a small bite to eat, as I returned with enough food to feed an army. The rest of the evening was spent reorganising my panniers while eating through my mountain of food.

 

11 July – Rayong – Roadside guest cottage – 85 km

The previous night, the sky put on a dramatic show with heavy rain, thunder, and lightning. As the morning arrived, a drizzle persisted, giving me the perfect excuse to organise my belongings at leisure.

Finally, when the rain subsided, I set out. However, after a mere five kilometres, the rain returned, forcing me to seek refuge at a petrol station with an Amazon Café. The day, however, took a turn for the better, offering ideal cycling conditions with a gentle ocean breeze and a thin cloud cover, a complete contrast to the earlier deluge.

My progress was slow as I made adjustments every few kilometres – first, it was my watch, then the chain, and later, the tyres. I also took advantage of the conditions and frequently stopped to snap a few pics. It's always such a pleasure to cycle the South Coast. Around five o'clock, I stumbled upon charming roadside cottages with nearby shops and restaurants and thought it the perfect spot to spend the night.

 

12-13 July – Roadside cottage – Chanthaburi – 75 km

I woke up surprisingly early at six o’clock, made coffee, and sat listening to the many birds whistling their individual tunes. Later, I packed my belongings, said goodbye to the owner, and continued my bike ride along the coast.

It was a rather overcast day, but cycling the scenic route along the coast is always a privilege. Along the way, I stopped at a few viewpoints to enjoy the views, which no doubt came with a bit of a climb. With 20 kilometres left to go to Chanthaburi, I turned inland and passed emerald-green rice fields, which made the ornate Buddhist temples in the area even more striking.

When I arrived in Chanthaburi, I went straight to the old waterfront community and checked into Laluna River House. It's affordable at 420 THB per room and offers a lovely river view. Since I arrived early, I spent the rest of the day eating. The following day, I spent a super lazy day in Chanthaburi, not doing much except walking around the supermarket and investigating the old town.

The durian, also known as the "king of fruit" in Asia, remains, at least to me, one of the strangest fruits. Although native to Borneo and Sumatra, it is grown all over Southeast Asia. It is enormous, mostly 30 cm x 15 cm, and, as can be expected from such a large and heavy fruit, it grows on large branches directly on the trunk. It has a tough, spiky rind, which is nearly impossible to open unless you know what you are doing. It also comes with an overpowering (unpleasant?) odour. Despite this, it hides a soft, creamy flesh - a pricey delicacy in Thailand. I've never bought any as they are expensive, but I love durian-flavoured ice cream. The smell is so strong that most hotels and guesthouses don’t allow durian.

 

14 July - Chantaburi – Bo Rai Resort – 83 km

I was unsure where I wanted to go, so I followed minor roads until I reached the main road. Not feeling like spending time on the busy Sukhumvit Road, I veered off at the first opportunity. Soon, I found myself on a superb road heading north through dense forests. The area seemed seldom visited, as I hardly encountered any traffic or people. I was thus surprised and delighted to stumble upon quaint Bo Rai, which sported a lovely hotel and a 7-Eleven.

I also heard from my dear friend, Anil that he was in Pattaya. Since I had never managed to catch up with them when in India, and had promised to meet them in Pattaya, I hurriedly organised a ride back to Pattaya the following morning.

 

15 July – Bo Rai – Pattaya

And, just like that, I was back in Pattaya. Seeing Anil and his friends was lovely, and we spent an evening socialising at the Beer Garden in Pattaya.

As Dawn was arriving in four days, I decided to stay put.

 

19 July – 18 August

Dawn arrived, and it was a fun month of eating, drinking, and catching up with everyone. We spent a few days on Ko Samet and, as always, a few days in Bangkok, where we met Luke (her son) just before they flew home. We had plans to do much more, but the days flew by, and very few of our plans materialised.

 

20 August

Once back in Jomtien, I waited for my second bicycle to be serviced and started packing my panniers for my trip around Asia. I packed, cleaned the room, and got rid of loads of stuff I had collected during my stay in Jomtien—none of which I really needed and surely not anything I’ll lug around with me on a bicycle trip.

 

 

THAILAND (22.3) – The Road North
Jomtien – Nong Khai
28 August - 13 September 2024
1 010 Km – 16 Days

 

 

28 August – Jomtien – Khao Khan Song – 85 km

It was 28 August before I cycled out of Jomtien. The day was anything but enjoyable, as I first had to swing by the Immigration Office to get a re-entry permit into Thailand to avoid losing my Non-Immigrant visa. This little procedure took the best part of two hours, and it was 11.30 a.m. before I collected my passport and got back on the bike.

Since I didn’t have a specific route in mind, I headed north. However, the minor roads I chose were jampacked with trucks and construction vehicles, making them a nightmare to navigate.

Major construction is taking place in the area, and I couldn’t find any available accommodation due to the rooms being occupied by permanent construction workers. I continued, hoping to find something, but eventually decided to call it a day as the traffic was downright dangerous. It took retracing my steps to where I saw a guesthouse much earlier in the day. Whew, it's time to look at the map again.

 

29 August - Khao Khan Song

Even though I say Khao Khan Song, I am not sure it is the name of the town, village or guesthouse as everything is written in Thai. I might have left too much in a hurry as a few outstanding tasks remained. Fortunately, just about anything can be done online. Since I had the luxury of a room with a chair and table as well as a veranda with a resident cat, I thought staying put was a good idea. My online business took the best part of the day, and once everything was done, it was already 5 p.m. and I ambled to the supermarket for my evening meal and beer.

 

30 August – Khao Khan Song – Bang Khla – 84 km

I saddled my old iron horse late in the morning and returned to the busy main road. Luckily, the road was new and had a generous shoulder almost as wide as the vehicle lanes. I veered off onto a smaller route only once, but my euphoria was short-lived as the path petered out.

I picked up a tailwind and blitzed it to charming Bang Khla, situated on the Bang Pakong River, without being rained on. That said, it started raining just as I cycled into town, and I pulled into the first available accommodation, resulting in my paying a tad more than usual, but I was rewarded with a lovely spacious room with aircon and hot water for $14. At least I was out of the madness and looking forward to the ride north, as there's plenty to see with a good mix of natural beauty and cultural heritage.

While enjoying a delicious plate of fried rice, it dawned on me that Thailand has its own table manners, similar to other cultures in the world and, fortunately, the rules of food etiquette are pretty simple. Spoons and forks are the main eating utensils in Thailand. Generally, in Thai, a spoon is called ‘chon’ and a fork ‘som’. The spoon is used to put food into the mouth, while the fork is used to scoop and arrange rice and food onto the spoon so it doesn’t fall off on its way to your mouth. Thai people mainly eat using a spoon and do not put a fork into their mouths. They don’t typically use a knife much while eating Thai food, as most dishes are served in bite-size pieces, so there is no need to use a knife.

 

31 August – Bang Kla – Nakhon Nayok – 90 km

In the morning, I first cycled a few kilometres to Wat Pho Bang Khla, believed to have been built during the reign of King Taksin the Great (between 1767 and 1782). The temple's architecture bears the influence of the Ayutthaya and Rattanakosin-period. The most interesting thing, though, is the temple's resident fruit bats, which reside in the trees within the temple grounds.

Next, I visited the floating market, which isn’t much of a floating market but rather resembles a food market on the banks of the river. My next stop was at Wat Pak Nam Jolo, another historical temple believed to have been built 200 years ago. From Bang Kla, a lovely ride took me along the Bang Pakong River.

Around midday, I felt hungry and stopped at a roadside shelter for a bite to eat. A very surprised lady quickly prepared a delicious meal of rice and spicy vegetables topped with a fried egg. All this happened without me speaking Thai or the lady any English. Hahaha!

Just before reaching Nakhon Nayok, I turned off to the ruins of the ancient town of Dong Lakhon. The area dates back from the ninth to eleventh centuries and not many remains of the structure except a well and a moat that surrounded the city. Still, it’s a lovely area to stroll about.

 

1 September – Nakhon Nayok – 50 km

I decided to extend my stay for an extra night and ventured into Khao Yai National Park in the hope of discovering stunning waterfalls. The park is enormous, covering over 2,000 square kilometres. Not only is it the oldest park in Thailand, but it’s also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Being a beautiful Sunday morning and the park's proximity to Bangkok, nothing came of my visions of enjoying my 7-Eleven sandwich next to a waterfall with just the soothing sounds of nature. Still, the area is undeniably beautiful. If I ever find myself in the vicinity again, I will cycle through one gate and exit through another - that way, I will see far more, and I’m sure it will be less crowded.

 

2 September – Nakhon Nayok – Pasak Chonlasit Dam – 106 km

I had a delightful ride along my chosen route, which followed the boundaries of the National Park and led me through small communities. In these communities, it seemed like all the women were either using a mortar and pestle or cooking up something delicious in a wok, some so potent it made me sneeze.

The road was lined with frangipani trees and the air was filled with the smell of freshly cut grass. I didn't have a specific plan or destination in mind, so I followed the signs to the Pasak Chonlasit Dam. Since it was a Monday, there was only one other cyclist and a couple from elsewhere in Thailand at the campsite. They later came and asked if they could have a picture with me. It seems like I must make quite an impression! LOL.

 

3 September – Pasak Chonlasit Dam – Sa Kruat - 88 km

I woke up early, as the other cyclist in the camp was up at an ungodly hour. If you've ever slept in a hiking hut, you probably know the sound of those plastic bags. I always want to ask, “What are you looking for?” Hahaha! Then he started listening to his music, which must have sounded quite soothing to him as he relaxed looking out over the dam. Unfortunately, sound travels very well in environments like that, so I was also up at the crack of dawn. LOL.

As I cycled over the dam wall, I felt immensely grateful to be out and heading in a direction I wasn’t quite sure where it would lead to. My path followed the eastern shores of the dam, which was quiet with just a few motorbikes, herds of buffalo, a snake, and a large Shongololo. I couldn’t wish for more. At midday, I stopped for a plate of fried rice, which is always an interesting affair due to my being a foreigner and, as they say, “only one.”

When threatening clouds rolled in, I called it quits at the next village, which I think is Sa Kruat, in the Si Thep district. The reason for stopping there was twofold, as I was toying with the idea of going to the Si Thep Historical Park in the morning, but was still undecided.

 

4 September – Sa Kruat – Windy Guesthouse. Si Thep - 30 km

I woke up early, feeling well-rested and decided to visit the nearby Si Thep Historical Park. This archaeological site covers the ancient city of Si Thep, which was inhabited from the third to fifth century CE until the thirteenth century. Si Thep was one of the largest city-states in the plains of Central Thailand. In 2023, it was added to the World Heritage List as The Ancient Town of Si Thep.

After visiting the park, I checked into a guesthouse across the road to do laundry and fix the slow leak in the back wheel of my bicycle. Later, I cycled 1.5 kilometres to a supermarket and unexpectedly got caught in a heavy downpour. I waited at a shelter for about 10 minutes before continuing to the shop in the sunshine. Weird.

There is quite a story behind my order of fried rice tonight. When the person running the guesthouse asked if I wanted food, I said, "Fried rice," thinking they might take orders there. Instead, he hopped on his motorbike and travelled about two kilometres to a restaurant to get the meal. He came back soaked but the food was still piping hot! I felt it was fair to give him $2.5 for a $1.25 meal, as where else in the world can you get a home-delivered meal for $2.50?

 

5 September – Windy Guesthouse, Si Thep – Haus Luneburg, Phakdi Chumphon – 88 km

I first rode to Wichian Buri to buy a new inner tube because I had discarded one and I like to keep two spares. The people there were incredibly friendly. They not only directed me to a shop where I could buy what I needed but also gave me two bottles of water. This was very helpful since I ended up needing more water than I had expected due to the heat and the steep climb.

Despite the high temperature, the ride was amazing. I couldn’t seem to stick to a main road, and I soon found myself on a narrow secondary road passing through small communities. After crossing the pass, I encountered an ice cream vendor and couldn't resist buying some. It was served with sticky rice, small scoops of ice cream, peanuts, and a dash of condensed milk!

Fuelled by the sugar, I sped down the road, where I came to a screeching halt at Haus Luneburg, a lovely guesthouse with a swimming pool. I didn't waste any time unloading the bike before jumping into the pool with a Chang beer in hand.

 

6 September - Haus Luneburg – Resort roadside cottages – 103 km

Again, I was blessed with a stunning ride. Route 2037 has been an absolute delight to cycle. My path was littered with tiny hamlets, always with a temple, a school and a market. Midway, the weather came in, and in bucketing rain I continued as it wasn’t cold. The rain soon abated, and I continued until spotting roadside cottages.

Even though it was early, it looked like more rain ahead, and I called it a day. Stopping so early also meant there wasn’t much to do, and I did the dreaded laundry and went in search of a tap to wash the mud from the bike.

 

7 - 8 September -Roadside cottage – Khon Kaen – 110 km

I think I wore a permanent grin today as it was yet another fantastic ride through the countryside. The weather was great, the rice paddies were green, the corn stood high, and I counted myself among the luckiest people on the planet. The kilometres ticked by effortlessly, and not even the village dogs gave chase. With a stiff breeze on my back, I ambled through numerous settlements and colourful temples until reaching Khon Kaen, where I planned to stay for two days to do the necessary chores.

The following day, I did the laundry at a laundromat directly outside my abode. Later, I strolled around the city lake, a pleasant, shaded walk past numerous temples. Afterwards, I cycled to the bike shop, which was a lovely surprise as it was well-stocked and professional. They adjusted the gears and also fitted an odometer.

By evening, I stopped at the night market, where I found little for vegetarians except some freshly made French fries. Fearing it wouldn’t be enough, I also bought a pizza, which cost the same as my room. Well, if you want to eat foreign food, it's always costly.

 

9 September – Kong Kaen – Roadside cottage – 110 km

I slept surprisingly well on the lumpy mattress, but what can one expect for 350THB? After getting up at six a.m., I was ready to roll at 8 a.m. and found the city far more substantial than I had imagined. The morning traffic was challenging, but I realised I was in Thailand when drivers stopped to let me across the road. Only in Thailand!

I soon found myself amongst the rice paddies with my music blearing far too loud. The ride was pleasant and interesting as I came upon the holy pond at Ku Ban Na Kham Noi. I learned that the structures surrounding the pond were used as a hospital during the reign of King Jayavarman VII (1177-1237) of the Khmer Empire. Then, I went on to the Cobra Village, but I didn’t linger as I didn’t think any animal wanted to be in captivity no matter how well they were treated.

Towards the end of the day, I veered off toward the main road, where one can find accommodation and other services. Once there, I found the road smooth as a baby’s bottom and pushed on a further 30 kilometres, even though I don’t like cycling on highways. When the weather came in, I pulled into the nearest guest accommodation and was pleased to find a cute 350THB bungalow. No lumpy mattress, and with air-con, fan, two bottles of water and clean bedding, I called it a bargain!

 

10 September – Roadside cottage to Ban Daeng - 100 km

I headed through the countryside and came upon a multitude of fascinating sites. Shortly after leaving, the map indicated a Monkey Park, and I investigated only to find an ordinary city park with outdoor gym equipment and volleyball courts overrun by monkeys. LOL. I don’t think anyone is using it, as the monkeys were a menace, and I didn’t dare leave the bike. So, it is a very aptly named Monkey Park.

Not much further was a large lake known as the Red Lotus Lake. I didn’t see any red lotus flowers; maybe their time was over, or there wasn’t enough water in the lake. Still, it was a peaceful ride along its shores and through rural villages where fishing seemed to be the main occupation.

Thirty kilometres or so later, I stumbled upon the remarkable Ban Chiang. The Ban Chiang Archaeological Site is a prehistoric human habitation and burial site. It is considered to be the most important prehistoric settlement discovered in Southeast Asia so far, marking the beginning and showing the development of the wet-rice culture typical of the region. The site has been dated by scientific chronometric means, which have established that the site was continuously occupied from 1495 BC until c. 900BC., making it the earliest scientifically dated prehistoric farming and habitation site in Southeast Asia known at the time of inscription onto the World Heritage List.

After leaving Ban Chiang, I made my way north toward the Laos border. My presence created quite a stir, and I had a distinct feeling that the area was seldom visited by foreigners. This was such a rural area that I never spotted any accommodation, and when it started raining, I pulled into the nearest Buddhist temple, where I asked if I could set up my tent. I was pointed to a large, covered area, and no sooner was the tent up and the lady monks started chanting. What a pleasant way to spend an evening.

 

11-12 September – Ban Daeng Temple – Nong Khai – 62 km

At three o'clock in the morning, the nuns were rummaging through their meagre belongings and by four, the chanting was in full swing. LOL. I was on the road by six, I’m sure it’s a record!

My first stop was at one of the food vendors, which is always an interesting experience. Riding was a wet affair, but I still reached Nong Khai before midday. My abode of choice was Mud Mee Guesthouse, a well-kept and inexpensive place right on the Mekong River. The guesthouse also has a lovely garden restaurant and coffee shop, and I paid for two nights as I felt tired. I did little of note for the rest of the day and, by evening, had a beer and a vegetarian green curry at the restaurant. A massive storm came in at night with loud thunder that shook the building! I was mighty pleased I wasn’t camping.

I slept in and, in the late morning, sauntered to the nearby supermarket to get a few items I may need in Laos. The day flew by, and I did nothing but stroll along the riverfront and watch the mighty Mekong flow by.

 

13 September – Nong Khai, Thailand – Vientiane, Laos – 29 km

As it was drizzling, I was in no hurry to get underway, so I chatted with the lady who owned the guesthouse. Eventually, I left and cycled to the Thailand immigration office, where checking out was easy. Entering Laos was slightly more complicated as I needed a visa, which usually is a breeze, but this time, they charged me $50 instead of $30. This was a scam, but there was little one could do about it, as it’s the immigration office.

Pissed off, I cycled into the city, with the result almost everything after that pissed me off. Still, I strolled to the riverfront, which was nearly flooded, as the Mekong was in full flood. Lots have changed since I was here six years prior, some for the better and some not.

169 Thailand (22) - Exploring the Central Plains

169 Thailand (22)
9 January – 20 January 2024
1 377 Kilometres – 22 Days

PHOTOS
MAP

9 January - Jomtien – Bang Saen Beach – 83 km

It was already past midday when I finally set out, and I was determined to stick to rural roads and avoid the chaotic traffic that plagues the route between Pattaya and Bangkok. Despite the challenges, I navigated my way through the winding roads until I finally arrived at the tranquil Bang Saen Beach in Chon Buri. The sense of relief was palpable as I found a comfortable $10 room and settled in for the night, feeling as happy as the proverbial pig.

As the sun began its descent towards the horizon, I walked the short distance of less than 200 meters to the beach. I sat on the sand, feeling the warmth of the grains between my toes and the gentle breeze of the sea on my skin. The colours of the sky changed with each passing moment, creating a breathtaking spectacle that left me feeling blessed and privileged to be back on the road.

10 January – Bang Saen Beach – Chachoengsao – 65 km

The first 30 kilometres of the ride ran along a scenic part of the Gulf of Thailand partly via a road built over the ocean. The Northern Gulf of Thailand is shallow, with abundant birdlife and fishing opportunities. Afterwards, I veered inland along the Bang Pakong River but couldn't find country lanes, which is a rarity in Thailand.

Interestingly, authorities have persuaded fishermen on the Bang Pakong River to stop shrimping to protect the Irrawaddy dolphins, and 30 to 40 fishing boats have been modified to offer dolphin sightseeing tours. I was hoping to find a path along the river, but it never happened, and I never saw the dolphins.

Heavy traffic made cycling unpleasant, so I called it a day in Chachoengsao. I found an inexpensive room and needed to look at the map more closely.

My early arrival allowed me to explore the area, including the 100-year-old Banmai Market. Nowadays, the market is only a weekend market, but traders live inside this ancient riverside complex. The light was beautiful. Back in my room, it was time to do the dreaded laundry.

 

11 January - Chachoengsao – Amphoe Nong Khae, Saraburi – 110 km

From Chachoengsao, it was a much better day of cycling as I had plenty of rural roads to choose from. It was an absolute pleasure to pedal past rice paddies and tiny hamlets.

At one point, I picked up a red cloth, which I thought of using as a flag, but it was too large, and I tied it to the rear rack, hoping it would make me more visible. For most of the day, my chosen path ran alongside a canal until, after 110 kilometres, it spat me out at a busy intersection where I decided to end my ride. I was surprised to find a fancy room for only $14! Hahaha, or as fancy as a $14 room can be.

 

12 &13 January - Nong Khae – Lopburi – 80 km

I took far too many pictures during the ride to Lopburi. It was a brilliant ride, partly along the railway line and partly next to a canal. Lopburi is an ancient town filled with old ruins that are all within easy walking distance. Nowadays, the old city is home to ordinary Thai life and a group of monkeys, who even have a temple of their own.

I'm glad that I arrived early as it was pretty warm (35°C). The $10 room that I rented wasn't very fancy, but it had a fan, which was good enough for me. I felt like all I did was eat since I arrived, but there are so many good food options in Lopburi.

There's much to see in Lopburi and I decided to stay one more day. The windows of my room couldn’t open, as the monkeys were notorious for breaking into rooms through the windows despite having bars on them. They can be quite a menace. The rest of the day was spent exploring the ruins of Lopburi.

 

14 January – Lopburi – Khok Mai Den – 110 km

Not much happened en route to Khok Mai Den. I again followed a canal, or maybe it was a river, meaning there were many luminous green rice paddies and people fishing. I must have been way off the beaten track as I encountered very few villages. I loved the ride and felt energetic and happy to be out there. What a privilege.

Of course, there’s always the ever-present Buddhist temple with its bright yellow Dharma flags blowing in the wind. These temples make peaceful and convenient stopping places, offering plenty of shade. Eventually, after 110 kilometres, I veered towards the highway to find food and accommodation.

At my accommodation I realised you'll hardly ever find a bed in Asia facing the door as it's the worst possible position, according to feng shui principles. People who practice feng shui call it the ‘dead man’s position’ or the ‘coffin position’ because it resembles how we carry the dead through the door.

I was well into the Thai lifestyle and ordered a takeaway from 7-Eleven. Delivery is free, and even with a good tip, I still considered it a bargain as I didn't feel like getting on the bike to cycle the two kilometres to the shop in darkness.

 

15 January – Khok Mai den – Nakhon Savan (Anodard Hotel) 53 km

I dawdled and didn't leave my comfortable bungalow until past nine in the morning.

My first destination for the day was the Khok Mai Den Ancient City ruins, located just two kilometres away. The city was founded between 457 and 957 AD during the Thawarawadi period. I parked my bike at the temple and walked to the top of the hill to explore the ruins. Upon my return, I found a bag hanging from my bike's handlebars containing rice and soup. The monk who left it gave me a Buddhist talisman as well. I expressed my gratitude and proceeded to a roadside shrine to eat the food, but I couldn't stomach the soup, which was a watery broth with bird-like chunks.

From the ruins, I followed the Chao Phraya River upstream to its origin at the confluence of the Ping and Nan rivers in Nakhon Sawan. From here, the river flows 372 kilometres south to the Gulf of Thailand, and the surroundings are mostly farmland with small villages. The fried banana snack is a popular treat in these hamlets, and petrol is sold in Coca-Cola bottles from hole-in-the-wall shops. Although most rice farming is still done manually, I saw farmers using drones to spread either seeds or fertiliser, but I couldn't determine which one.

 

16 January - Nakhon Savan - Tha Makhuea – 92 km

Biking out of Nakhon Savan was amidst heavy traffic and workers installing decorations for the upcoming Chinese New Year festivities. A path next to the Ping River took me north through small riverside villages. I passed by sleeping cats and dogs and chickens pecking in the dirt. Women were selling goods on their bicycles, and I could hear monks chanting at colourful temples. The ride was easy, and the kilometres flew by quickly.

At my many water stops, people would shyly ask, "Where are you from?" and I would respond, "Africa Thai" (one of the few Thai words I know). They would usually exclaim, "Oh, you speak Thai!" The next question was generally about my destination, but as I was not sure where I was headed, I replied with the name of the next big town, to which they would always ask, "By bicycle?" LOL. Eventually, they would ask, "Only one?" My answer usually ended the conversation as a woman travelling alone by bicycle isn't something rural Thai people seem to understand.

 

17-18 January - Tha Makhuea – Kamphaeng Phet – 56 km

The way to Kamphaeng Phet was along a busy road with large trucks carrying sugarcane to the mill, and the road surface was littered with sugarcane stalks.

My visit to Kamphaeng Phet was to explore its UNESCO World Heritage Site, which features ruins of structures dating to the 14th century, roughly the same time as the better-known kingdom of Sukhothai, a bit further north. Three J Guesthouse offers cute wooden bungalows at 350 THB. The guesthouse has a friendly owner and heaps of information, and is set in a jumble of arty nooks and crannies. Due to the short distance, I arrived early, but it was already 4 pm before I put my laundry in the machine and went to the famous Heritage Park. Unfortunately, it was too late to explore, but I snapped a few pictures before they closed the gates.

The following morning, I explored Kamphaeng Phet by bicycle, a vast area of ancient ruins, trees, and shade - what a delightful experience!

 

19 - 20 January – Kamphaeng Phet – Sukhothai – 85 km

From Kamphaeng Phet, I again opted for a rural path that ran past rice, banana, corn and sugarcane plantations. The weather was perfect, and I biked along, hardly stopping as the going was super easy.

 

Thailand's central region is a fertile plain that provides easy cycling. It's also the birthplace of the culture and language that defines Thailand today. Sukhothai is, therefore, immensely touristy, and a budget room came at 400 THB. Once booked in, I realised my wallet was nowhere to be found! I have two wallets, one containing my day money, which is in my handlebar bag and the other holding my bank cards and remaining cash. At my destination, there was no sign of my main wallet! I freaked right there and then! It doesn't matter how much money you have, without access to it you have nothing!

 

I contacted my sister, Amanda: Please send money! But even that would take at least 24 hours. Adding that I couldn't access my Thai bank app, made my stress levels go through the roof! Many hours later, I had money in my wallet, and I hoped the money transfers would show the next day. Phew! What a day! Thanks to Vitoonguesthouse2Fanroom, who allowed me to book in without paying - it is much appreciated!

An additional day was spent in Sukhothai as I waited for the money transferred to show in my bank account and to investigate the area. Sukhothai was the capital of the first Kingdom of Siam in the 13th and 14th centuries, and the area has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The old walled city is home to some of the most well-preserved and impressive ruins I've seen in Thailand. A delightful day was spent cycling the outlying area. The park is open until 8 pm, and as I was staying across the road, I walked to the nearby temples. The park was much nicer to explore at sunset than in the midday heat.

 

21 January – Sukhothai – Phitsanulok 78 km

From Sukhothai, a 78-kilometre ride took me to Phitsanulok. The route was relatively uneventful, but I was fortunate to find a bike lane along the main road. With the wind at my back, I made good progress and arrived in Phitsanulok early.

 

I was surprised by the town, mainly because it reminded me of India. The old town, with its famous Buddha and charming historical structures, also gave me an Indian vibe.

 

My accommodation was quite intriguing, as it was bounded by the highway, the railway line, and a mosque! Although immensely central, I thought it best to walk to the nearest 7-Eleven to buy a two-pack, as I didn’t think I would get much sleep. LOL.

 

22 January – Phitsanulok – Taphan Hin – 100 km

I was pleasantly surprised by the comfort of my hotel despite the muezzin's call. I didn't hear the muezzin but woke to the hustle and bustle of the street below (it must have been that two-pack - LOL).

After a breakfast of coffee, fried dough, bananas, and biscuits (included in the room rate), I nervously attempted to cross the busy Main Road and I must have made such a spectacle that cars stopped allowing me to pass. I continued south along the Nan River, passing temples and people living on barges. The weather was pleasant, and most rice paddies were still green, as they were near the river and not dependent on rain.

After 100 kilometres, and spotting the New Hua Hin Hotel (which wasn't new, not even by any stretch of the imagination), I decided to call it a day. The small village was bustling as food vendors set up their stalls. After a quick shower, I barely had to walk 100 metres to find a delicious noodle dish. It was such a novelty that I opted for a takeaway.

 

23 January - Taphan Hin – Tha Tako – 98 km

The morning market was already in full swing on departing the (not-so-new) New Hua Hin Hotel. I continued south along the river, passing the, by now, familiar small villages and bright green rice paddies.

Around noon, I decided to change my route and head east instead of going through Bangkok. However, I soon realised I needed to withdraw more cash, but Miss Smarty Pants' decision to cancel her Bangkok Bank card meant I couldn't make a cardless withdrawal. The word “fuck” left my mouth with alarming frequency! Fortunately, I had just about enough money for a room and food. Still, I desperately needed to stop at the nearest Bangkok Bank, 55 kilometres to the south, first thing in the morning. The drama was never-ending!

 

24 January - Tha Tako- Nakhon Sawan – 48 km

By morning, I blitzed the 50 kilometres to Nakhon Sawan, where I came to a screeching halt in front of Bangkok Bank. Not much later, I walked out with money and a new bank card in my wallet. Phew!

I was so relieved that I booked into a nearby hotel and walked to the mall. My wandering took me through the city park, a massive area with bike and walking lanes, as well as basketball and volleyball courts. I love new destinations where everything is unfamiliar, and I can't understand the language. The city was buzzing with preparations for the Year of the Dragon celebrations, and red lanterns and dragons were everywhere.

 

25 January – Nakhon Sawan - Chai Nat – 92 km

If I followed the main road, the day’s distance would have been 62 kilometres, and if I followed the route suggested by Organic Maps, it would have been 72 kilometres. Still, I wouldn’t have it any other way.

I again followed the river, and a winding river it was. The little settlements I encountered were old-worldly, and wooden shophouses lined the path. I loved it. The Chao Phraya River is one of the main rivers in Thailand and, like any other important waterway, it comes with an ancient history. It’s a place where the temples are old and the boats long!

There was no need to stop in Chai Nat, but it looked like a sizable town with inexpensive accommodation.

 

26 January – Chat Nai - Ang Thong – 100 km

The next morning, I followed the route indicated by Organic Maps for about five kilometres before veering off onto a smaller path. What a delight to make my way through these tiny hamlets where cats, dogs and water monitors lay sleeping on the road. One can easily assume they are dead. I tried to make a noise to warn them I’m coming, but their eyelids or ears only flickered.

I dragged my heels a tad, and it must have been near 4 pm when I arrived in Ang Thong. Shortly before the town, I stopped at Wat Sukkasem Thammikaram, a 130-year-old temple home to a 38.9-metre-high statue of Phra Siwali Mahalap. The statue can be seen from many kilometres away. According to ancient belief, Phra Siwali Mahalap brings good fortune and lottery results. Hence, villagers flock here to pay homage and ask for blessings by offering honey, fresh fruit, and white or fragrant flowers. The honey may have something to do with the swarm of bees that annually nest under the arm of the statue, and hundreds of people visit the temple during that time.

Finding inexpensive accommodation was easy, and I soon spotted the popular budget Ang Thong hotel. I couldn’t wait to get in the shower - as I have often said: a shower is never overrated. Afterwards, I washed my cycling clothes in the wastepaper bin, and I’m sure they never had such a clean bin. Then, I could finally walk to the 7-Eleven for my evening beer and portion of vegetarian fried rice.

 

27-28 January – Ang Thong – Ayutthaya - 65 km

I had no intention of going to Ayutthaya but ended up there anyway. Again, the way was mainly along a canal dotted by typical Thai-style timber homes on stilts and, of course, numerous temples, one more ornate than the other.

In Ayutthaya, I cycled to the train station thinking of taking a train into Bangkok, but there was a two-hour wait for the train and, instead, I sought out my old favourite Baan Lotus Guesthouse, a converted old schoolhouse. I felt tired and only walked to the shop for food and relaxed for the rest of the afternoon.

 

29-30 January – Ayutthaya – Bangkok – 85 km

Although I wasn't feeling up to it, I decided to cycle the 85 kilometres to Bangkok. Luckily, it was Sunday and the traffic light. However, cycling into a city with a population of 11 million can be pretty nerve-wracking. I was relieved to finally arrive at my destination, but I chose to take the train from Bangkok to Pattaya as I had cycled that route too many times before and wasn't in the mood for the traffic.

I slept so well that I woke up too late to catch the train, but it wasn't a big deal since I enjoy spending time in Bangkok.

 

31 January – Bangkok – Pattaya 15 km (by train)

The previous evening, I made sure the alarm was set and I cycled the five kilometres to the train station in the dark. I was nervous because I wasn't sure if drivers could see me.

Getting the bicycle onto the train was challenging since the door was relatively narrow, and it required careful manoeuvring to get the bike into the coach. Three hours later, it took the same effort to get off at Pattaya station.

Once I arrived at my room, the washing machine worked overtime, and I cleaned the bike bags so they would be ready for use after mid-March. I'm wondering which route I should take next, as there are many exciting destinations.