175 Cycle Touring Malaysa (7)

175 Cycle Touring Malaysia

1 January 2025 –11 January 2025
693 Kilometres – 11 Days

PHOTOS

 

 

January – Padang Besar – Alor Setar – 98 km

I woke determined to visit Langkawi since I hadn’t been there in years! So, I set off on a beautiful, clear morning, heading to Kuala Perlis, the launching point for ferries to Langkawi. The ride turned out to be marvellous. The scenery looked straight out of a tourist brochure, and the traffic was light. Although the distance was only about 45 kilometres, I was taken aback by the endless row of vehicles waiting to board the ferry to the island.

Still, I made my way to the ticket office, only to be informed that I needed customs clearance for my bicycle! Can you believe it? It seems that crossing borders by bicycle is generally hassle-free, but customs clearance is required to go to Langkawi. This sounded like too much trouble, so I turned around and headed along the coast to Alor Setar.

It turned out to be another excellent ride on a country road hugging the coast. I had the ocean to my right and the bright green rice paddies (dotted with buildings for swiftlet farming) to my left. The lighting was beautiful, and I couldn't have asked for a better ride.

Once in Alor Setar, I headed to the Comfort Motel, probably the cheapest accommodation in town. The place has been around forever and is as basic as you can expect for 50 ringgit. Still, the elderly owners (LOL, they are most likely younger than me) were super friendly, and the accommodation came with air conditioning, a shower, and ground-floor rooms where I could wheel my wagon right into the room.

The official language is Malay, also known as Bahasa Malaysia, but due to its multicultural population, an array of other languages is spoken nationwide and I learned my Bahasa Malay from the road signs, LOL.

 

2 January - Alor Setar - George Town. Penang – 103 km

Alor Setar is a far more substantial town than I recalled from my previous visits, and I couldn’t resist snapping one more picture of the stunning Zahir Mosque with its Moorish-inspired architecture.

No sooner had I left than I found myself on a tranquil canal path that wound through lush rice fields. Being situated only 5.5 degrees north of the equator, the warm sun beat down upon me, and I was soon drenched in sweat. Yet, amid the heat, I felt like the luckiest person on the planet as I biked through charming settlements. Here, friendly, burka-clad women offered an array of delectable homemade snacks.

I know I keep harping on about the scenery, but the Malaysian countryside is simply breathtaking. Every twist and turn revealed distant hills draped in lush greenery and bright green rice paddies against a clear blue sky. I hummed along to my music, lost in the moment, as I made my way toward Butterworth.

At Tanjong Dawai, a ferry carried me and my bike across the sprawling Merbok River. The ride came at a hefty fee, but it saved me from cycling a long detour along the main road and was worth every ringgit.

I stopped numerous times to take pictures or admire the scenery, and it was already late by the time I arrived at the ferry terminal in Butterworth. The new terminal was quite a rigmarole and more cumbersome than its predecessor. Eventually, I secured a ticket and boarded the ferry to George Town on Penang Island.

Cycling into the famous George Town felt like a homecoming, so I headed straight to Hotel Noble. This establishment has been around for decades and is undoubtedly the most budget-friendly accommodation available.

I barely had time to unload my panniers before I dashed off to the famous food stalls, my stomach growling in protest for having gone without food all day.

Penang didn’t appear historic from the ferry, as high-rise buildings dominated the skyline. However, my short walk to the ATM revealed just how George Town has earned its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. With Penang's central location in the Strait of Malacca, the island was an essential stopover along the ancient trade route connecting Europe, the Middle East, India, and China. Since the Strait of Malacca lies at the intersection of two monsoon seasons, ships couldn’t set sail until the winds were favourable. Consequently, Penang became a diverse melting pot of cultures, a diversity that remains evident to this day.

It was blisteringly hot, and I didn’t do much exploring. Most of my day was spent at the Clan Jetties, established over 100 years ago. The Clan Jetties are historic Chinese villages built over the water on long jetties. Typically, each jetty is owned by a single family clan, with dozens of wooden houses on each one.

Later I had the pleasure of meeting Connie Chew, a friend I know through social media. Although we've never met in person, we have closely followed each other's travels around the world for the past 10 years. I can't imagine two people more different, and I genuinely appreciate social media for making such connections possible.

Connie is a fermentation specialist known for her expertise in fermentation science, particularly in food and beverage production. Connie is also dedicated to educating others about fermentation techniques and is involved in developing sustainable fermentation methods. Her work contributes to the broader movement of using fermentation for culinary purposes and innovative applications related to health and environmental sustainability.

We spent the entire day being driven around by her lovely son, Mark, to sample Penang's famous delicacies—quite different from my usual fare! I had the opportunity to enjoy a delicious iced coffee and tea mix. I never imagined such a concoction could taste so good! Just as delightful was the humble coconut roti. Thank you, Connie and Mark, for a wonderful day!

 

6 January – George Town, Penang – Bagan Serai - 98km

The time was 10 o'clock when I cycled onto the ferry for the short trip to the mainland. What I expected to be a quick ride turned into a whole-day affair as I was determined to avoid toll roads and highways. Malaysia is developing at an alarming rate, and I tried various routes to steer clear of traffic. Eventually, I found myself on a coastal road that offered pleasant cycling conditions.

When the weather began to look threatening, I searched for a hotel, but the only one nearby was expensive. Rather than cycling 40 kilometres to Taiping, I decided to head back to the main road, which had more accommodation options. The only hotel that offered a somewhat reasonable rate was still pricey and situated near a mosque, and it was no surprise that it seemed to cater only to Muslims. Although almost all hotels come with a prayer mat and a Qibla indicator, this one had a list of what not to do as long as my arm.

 

7 January – Bagan Serai – Taiping – 37 km

Malaysia’s one-hour time difference kept me awake until 1 a.m. It also meant it didn’t get light until well past 7.30 a.m. If it weren’t for the sounds of other guests stirring, I would have probably slept even later. This morning was no different. By the time I woke up, it was still raining, and I reluctantly started loading my bike.

As the rain eased, a beautiful, fresh morning emerged, and I set off through the rice fields. It turned out to be a fantastic day of cycling with stunning scenery. Malaysia's landscapes away from the cities and highways are truly remarkable. I soon arrived in Taiping, where I decided to stay as I received documents that needed signing, which meant I needed access to a printer and scanner. Unfortunately, my chosen accommodation was a disappointment. All I'll say is that I will NEVER use OYO accommodations again.

 

8 January – Taiping – Lumut – 93 km

I might be getting used to the time difference, or perhaps it was due to the lumpy mattress, but I found myself awake at 6 o'clock. It was still dark because, theoretically, it was winter, and the sun didn’t rise until about 7:30 a.m. I lingered for a while, and it was nearly 9 o’clock before I finally set out. Not much happened during the ride and I spent most of the day on a proper road. Although it was a secondary road, it was relatively busy with trucks.

My route took me through dense oil palm plantations, lush with ferns and mosses. I didn’t stop often since there wasn't much to explore. As I approached Lumut, I crossed the Sungai Munjung, which appears as an inlet from the Strait of Malacca. This area is home to Lumut Port and the Industrial Park, which provides space for warehousing and transhipment. It's not surprising that the road was crowded with trucks.

I was pleased to see that the region also contains a large and protected mangrove area as mangroves are essential to coastal ecosystems. Their roots play a crucial role in coastal protection, acting as a buffer against storm surges and providing unique habitats for various species. I often forget just how good mangroves are at capturing and storing carbon.

 

9 January - Lumut – Sungai Besar – 121 km

From the beginning, I was on one-lane country roads. It was quiet, and I hardly ever saw anyone. Once along the coast, I stopped to fill up with water and also had a portion of nasi lemak, folded up in a triangular parcel. It consisted of rice, peanuts, a boiled egg, and a fiery sauce with tiny fish, no more than a centimetre or two. It took me forever to scoop out these tiny fishes. I ate my food while watching fishermen on a boat chasing a school of fish into their net, or at least that is what I thought they were doing.

Malaysia experiences a tropical rainforest climate with high rainfall throughout the year. I understand that the average annual rainfall typically ranges from 1000 mm to 2500 mm per annum. Some regions, especially the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia and certain highland areas in Borneo, get even more rain. The country’s unique position near the equator means there isn’t a real dry season, and it can rain at almost any time. Most of my day was thus spent cycling through rice fields and oil palm plantations. Malaysia is the world’s second-largest palm oil producer, after Indonesia.

Towards the end of the day, I crossed the mighty Perak River, or Sungai Perak. It is the second-longest river in Peninsular Malaysia after the Pahang River. Its source lies near the Thailand-Malaysia border.

 

10 January – Sungai Besar – Kaula Selangor – 64 km

Shortly after leaving, I stopped at a roadside vendor to enjoy my daily portion of roti canai, which was delicious. I continued to find rural roads leading me past rice fields ready for harvest. It was easy cycling, and I rolled into Kuala Selangor early, as the distance was only about 60 kilometres.

After arriving, I took a short walk up the historic hill of Bukit Melawati, where I came across monkeys, cannons, and various fascinating artefacts. Bukit Melawati once served as the administrative centre and stronghold of the Selangor Sultanate in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The hill features remnants of a heavily fortified fort built between 1782 and 1826. This fort fell to the Dutch in 1784, but it is historically significant as it was the first time a sultan managed to recapture a fort from a foreign power.

 

 

11 January - Kaula Selangor – Puchong, Kuala Lumper – 77 km

I woke not feeling bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, and finding a tick in my bed didn't help. It's highly likely I brought the tick home after my meander in the little Nature Park, and I hoped I wouldn't succumb to tick-bite fever.

The ride into a big city is seldom scenic, and I tried my utmost to stay on a smaller road. Unfortunately, the smaller roads were narrow and equally busy with trucks and buses. I was relieved to arrive at my friend, Peter. Peter is a popular WarmShower host, and I’ve known him for the past 10 years. I was surprised to find I had a lovely flatlet to sleep in, and the fridge was even stocked with beer. Peter, you are the best!

I spent the next day doing virtually nothing, just chilling in my very comfortable room. By then, the bite under my arm was a large, red, blistery area, and although I didn’t feel sick, I was somewhat lethargic.

I hung about at Peter’s, waiting for documents that needed to be verified at the embassy.

 

 

13 January - Puchong

I planned to fly to India and had a few things to prepare before my flight. Peter kindly provided me with a bike box.

The following morning, we had breakfast at a nearby food court, where I enjoyed the most delicious kari laksa which became my go-to breakfast. Later, Gan, Peter's friend and a social media friend of mine, dropped by, and we shared a few beers and stories as we are all cycle tourers.

 

The following morning, I slept in because Saras, a lady I met five years ago in Kuala Selangor, came to visit. We had lunch together, and I felt somewhat embarrassed since I didn’t think I paid for a single meal since my arrival at Peter's place. I feel like I should be the one paying, given that I stayed free of charge.

 

Peter planned to go camping, at Sungai Sendat, Ulu Yam, and I spent the following night at Saras’s place to celebrate the start of Pongal, the harvest festival. In the kitchen she prepared a traditional Pongal meal of sour and sweet rice before donning a salwar kameez for our visit to the temple.

The bite under my arm spread across my chest and back, and I thought seeing a doctor before our planned camping trip was a good idea. At the clinic, I learned that it wasn’t a bite but shingles. Have you ever! Peter picked us up at around 10 a.m. and we drove to Sungai Sendat, Ulu Yam. Peter prepared a feast and the weather was great.

Returning to Peters, I was in agony, and I stocked up on painkillers after another visit to the clinic, where they prescribed ani-viral tablets and cream. I also stocked up on two different types of painkillers as I was determined to kill this virus.

 

16 January – Puchong

The much-awaited documents arrived, and I ventured into the city centre. Unfortunately, my day at the embassy was unsuccessful as back home I discovered the most important document wasn't signed! To top off an already bad day, three of my attempts to draw money were declined, but still, the money was deducted from my account. Thanks to my host, Peter, I had a very comfortable place to stay. After transferring money into his account, I had cash in hand, all made possible with the Wise app. I planned on repeating the embassy process the following Monday, hopefully with more success.

 

20 January - Puchong

My second visit to the embassy was more successful but, unfortunately, my visit to the bank wasn’t. After speaking to customer care, I was told there was nothing they could do to unlock the account, and I had to visit a Bangkok Bank in Thailand.

 

22 February – Kuala Lumper, Malaysia – Jomtien, Thailand

Although my flight to Bangkok was only at 12h00, I was up early to pack my panniers, which I left at Peter’s place. Later, he drove me to Putrajaya station, where I caught the KLIA line to the airport. It's all so easy.

My short flight to Bangkok was uneventful, as in such a confined space, everyone pretends they don’t see anyone else. It’s what we do when people move into our personal space. Bangkok Airport was busy, and the buses to Pattaya were fully booked, so it took some time before I was seated on the bus to Jomtien. Once there, I walked the two or three kilometres back to my room to get some exercise.

Shortly before reaching my emergency bunker, I met my neighbours, Peet and Charmy, and we had a few beers before I stumbled home. I took two painkillers before going to bed and slept like a baby.

 

23 February – Jomtien

First thing, I was at the bank to change my bank card. This little excursion took the best part of the morning, and when I returned, I found I couldn’t get into the banking app. I thought it best to wait until the following morning. Even this will end!

174 Cycle Touring Thailand (23.1)

  

174 CYCLE TOURING THAILAND (23)

KOH KONG – PATTAYA
20 OCTOBER – 23 OCTOBER
4 DAYS – 355 KM

PHOTOS

MAP

  

20 October – Koh Kong – Trat – 100 km

My abode in Koh Kong was so comfortable that it made it hard to get moving in the morning. Every task seemed to drag on forever, and I even considered staying another day. However, since my bags were packed, I decided to cycle to the money exchange and convert my remaining Cambodian Riel to Thai Baht.

The distance to the Cambodia-Thailand border was only about 10 kilometres, but by the time I left the immigration office, it was already past 12 o’clock. I felt completely drained and lacked the energy for the 90-kilometre ride to Trat.

The route to Trat was quite hilly, and my legs were not cooperating. Still, I persevered, knowing the ride ahead was beautiful and the road well-maintained. I entertained the idea of settling for a roadside motel, but I daydreamed so much that I suddenly realised I was only 30 kilometres from Trat.

Fifteen kilometres from Trat, the sky darkened, and someone jokingly shouted, "Rain is coming!" Before I knew it, it was dark and raining, and I couldn't help but think I must be crazy to cycle in this weather. However, at that point, I had no choice but to keep going. It was a nerve-racking experience.

Eventually, I arrived in Trat and had to walk the bike through the darkness and rain, searching for a guesthouse. Finally, I spotted one and knocked on the closed door. Being incredibly kind, the owner let a drenched farang (me and my bicycle) into his guesthouse. The room was available for just $7, and I couldn't believe my luck.

 

21 October - Trat – Chantaburi – 70 km

Although this is usually a pleasant ride, I wasn't in the mood for cycling. Fortunately, the ride was short, and the weather was perfect, making biking a pleasant experience. I chose a delightful route through old hamlets and passed even older temples. I love these country lanes.

I arrived in Chanthaburi just as a few raindrops began to fall and checked into the nearest hotel. The Muangchan Hotel is hidden but offers ground-floor rooms at 350 THB. I would have easily paid more to avoid carrying my panniers up a few floors. Later, I strolled to the night market, which was always a fascinating affair, but it was impossible to find vegetarian food.

 

22 October – Chantaburi – Rayong - 115km

I didn't want to go back to Thailand and was not keen on the ride to Pattaya. Still, I thought it best to extend my handy non-immigrant visa. It's not that this part of Thailand isn't interesting; it's just that I've cycled it too many times, and it's never nice to return to where you started just a few months ago.

Anyway, I reluctantly made my way in that direction and, after 115 kilometres, arrived in Rayong, where I cycled straight to Rich Grant Guesthouse. It's easily the cheapest accommodation in town and comes with washing machines, which is always a bonus. I've been here so many times, the owner gave me a discount on the room. LOL.

 

23 October – Rayong – Jomtien, Pattaya – 70 km

Instead of taking my usual coastal route, I took the main road and cycled (almost) nonstop to Jomtien. I arrived hungry because I didn't stop for food. I finally found my key, though I had completely forgotten where I had put it.

Everything was exactly as I left it, except for a layer of dust, which didn't bother me too much. It was good to have a decent shower, coffee, and beer. While hanging out the laundry, I heard someone call my name. Leo and Sammy were on their way to the Corner Bar, so I went downstairs to join them for a cold one.

 

24 October – Jomtien

I did nothing productive all day except watch the robot vacuum, sweep, and mop, LOL. However, I did walk across the road to the day market to stock up on eggs and potatoes, as putting eggs in a steamer and a potato in the microwave is pretty straightforward. By late afternoon, I strolled to the beach, and it was a real privilege. I sat on the sand, scolding myself for feeling restless, when I should be grateful for the opportunity to have just completed a lovely circular route in Southeast Asia through three countries in eight leisurely weeks, covering 3,371 kilometres.

 

 

174 THAILAND (23.1)

JOMTIEN - MALAYSIA

4 DECEMBER - 31 DECEMBER 2024

1,300 KILOMETRES – 24 DAYS

 

4 December – Jomtien

Jomtien, with its serene beaches and vibrant local life, had been an excellent base, and the days passed in a blur. In the evenings, the streets were filled with the scent of street food and bustling markets. My days were spent enjoying the local culture and preparing my bike for the anticipated long ride ahead. Yet, as departure day approached, unexpected setbacks tested my patience and resolve. My bike had undergone a thorough service, complete with brand-new components, including a shiny chain and cogs, new tyres, a rear light, and a water bottle. However, when I reached for the pump this morning, I found it was completely non-functional.

My panniers, already packed, stood ready and waiting by the door. Argh! Frustrated, I set off to the local bike shop, but discovered they didn’t carry the pump I needed. They assured me they would check their warehouse and get back to me in a few days.

In the meantime, I decided it might be wiser to order a pump online, even though that meant I’d be twiddling my thumbs for a few more days. With all my belongings stowed away, I lived out of my panniers. Come hell or high water, I had set my sights on departing on the 9th. If the pump hadn't appeared by then, I would have to improvise and make do without it. Adventure awaits!

 

7 December – Jomtien – Chon Buri - 70km

I was mighty surprised when the bicycle pump arrived much earlier than anticipated. With a sense of urgency, I hurriedly repacked my panniers and tidied my room in preparation for the ride south. As always, I was excited as I set off from Jomtien.

As I pedalled away, I quickly found myself on rural roads that wound through lush farmlands, leading me the short distance to the sun-soaked beach of Bang Saen in Chon Buri. Although the ride was pleasant, I couldn't help but notice just how swiftly one can lose fitness. Although the ride was easy and brought the familiar feeling of freedom, I was relieved to arrive in Chon Buri, where the beach was alive with sunbathers.

To my dismay, I noticed that room prices had skyrocketed, nearly doubling due to the influx of weekend tourists. After some searching, I finally found a modest $12 room, which I considered perfectly satisfactory. It was a convenient, ground-floor motel-style accommodation, allowing me to easily wheel my bike into the room. The only downside was the mattress which was long past its expiry date! I guess one gets what you pay for.

 

8 December - Chon Buri – Samut Prakan – 86 km

It dawned windy and overcast, casting a grey hue over the landscape that made me hesitant to get going. Reluctantly, I finally set off from Chon Buri at around 10 a.m. The first leg of my ride was a delightful stretch of roughly 20 kilometres, featuring a designated cycle lane along a road built over the ocean.

However, the tranquillity soon faded as I reached a busy highway. Thankfully, it was Sunday, so the roads were less congested than usual, but the experience was still nerve-racking, especially with construction work disrupting the flow.

Rounding the northern tip of the Gulf of Thailand is never a pleasant ride, as sprawling Bangkok stretches all the way down the mighty Chao Praya River to where it drains into the Gulf. Upon reaching Samut Prakan and the banks of the Chao Praya River, I decided I had pedalled enough for the day. My search for budget-friendly accommodation proved fruitless, forcing me to choose a more expensive option.

Hunger gnawed at my stomach, and I nearly robbed a fellow guest returning from the market. I wasted no time, dropping my bags and rushing to where he pointed. The market offered an overwhelming assortment of food. I returned to my room laden with an impressive bounty, far more than one person could reasonably devour.

 

9 December – Samut Prakan – Samut Songkhram – 86 km

In a desperate bid to avoid the notorious traffic of Rama 2 road, I opted for a more pleasant route, taking a ferry across the Chao Phraya River. The crossing was only made possible with the help of fellow passengers, who kindly lent a hand in loading and unloading the bicycle from the ferry.

Once on the other side, I zig-zagged and backtracked through a maze of small paths, leading me on a detour to a dolphin-watching area, where I hoped to catch a glimpse of these elusive creatures. Although the dolphins remained hidden from view, the area was alive, with abundant birdlife flitting through the air.

Eventually, I landed on the service road alongside the busy highway. Thankfully, it was just a brief foray before a tranquil rural road promised a more scenic route toward Samut Songkhram.

This region of Thailand is like a vast floodplain, a landscape dominated by flat terrain where countless canals snake through the area, flanked by salt farms and fishing-related industries. Here, flooding is not just a seasonal occurrence; it’s a rhythm of life, shaping the community and its culture. Fascinating.

The following day was spent relaxing. I had a bit of a runny nose and thought it best to hang low and do the necessary housekeeping.

 

11 December – Samut Songkhram – Cha-Am – 100 km

I woke up energetic. I am sure it was due to all the eating I had the previous day, as Samut Songkhram is well known for its night food market. I crossed the river by ferry and immediately found myself in a rural area that leads underneath the busy Rama 2 freeway to join the scenic route heading south along Thailand's Gulf. I made a short detour through the mangrove area to see the swimming monkeys, but they were not there.

For once, I met another lady cyclist who was also heading south. She hails from the UK and comes to Thailand to escape the harsh winter in the north. We chatted for a while and then continued at our own pace.

With a stiff breeze from behind, I flew right past Phetchaburi, where I thought I might overnight to explore the nearby caves. The going was good, the weather pleasant, and I continued south past vast salt farms. These wetlands attract large numbers of birds during their migration south, and I kept a keen eye out for the tiny spoon-billed sandpiper, but didn’t see many birds that day.

Most of the way was on a cycle path or a dedicated cycle lane, and I pedalled into Cha-Am at around 3.30 p.m. I didn’t wait for the night market, as I was starving, and grabbed a bit to eat from one of the street vendors.

 

12 December – Cha-Am – Sam Phraya Beach Camping – 90 km

The route along this coast is one of my favourite rides, as it is truly stunning. Add a stiff tailwind, and I found myself grinning from ear to ear.

I zipped through Hua Hin without stopping and followed the cycle path along the highway for a short while before veering off to the beautiful Pranburi and then heading south to Sam Roi Yot, before entering Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. This scenic park is famous for its numerous beautiful caves and beaches, but I headed straight to the Sam Phraya Beach camp site. Initially, it was a bit windy, but fortunately, it soon subsided. The ants drove me to a nearby shop about three kilometres away to get something to deter the “wee buggers”, as my dear friend Esther Burns will say.

Walking along the deserted beach made me realise how lucky I was to be there. I had everything I needed: food, water, a little tent, a comfortable sleeping mat, and clean ablutions, and I was happy as the proverbial pig.

I thought I was the only guest there, but the restaurant remained open, and they served me a bowl of delicious fried rice.

 

13 December - Sam Phraya Beach Camping – Prachuap Kiri Khan - 53 km

I woke to a slight drizzle and hurriedly packed up before everything became sopping wet. Once I was on my way, the drizzle grew heavier, which I did not enjoy. I stepped on the pedals and gunned it to Prachuap, which was fortunately only 50 kilometres away, where I came to a screeching halt at Maggie's Homestay.

Staying at Maggie's is always an enjoyable experience, and this time was no exception. UK John has been there for over a year, and USA Mike, who relocated from Indonesia, seems to have settled in quite nicely. Australian surfer Darren lives on the island of Sumatra, Indonesia, but was visiting Thailand for a few months.

I paid for two nights, and as Maggie’s sported washing machines, I did my laundry and spent the rest of the evening chatting to the other guests.

I did absolutely zilch the next day except for socialising with the other guests. I haven’t talked that much in months, as I hardly ever speak to anyone. Hahaha.

 

15 December – Prachuap – Bang Saphan -102km

I nearly stayed an extra day at Maggie's, as almost everyone extended their stay there. However, with the wind still from the northeast, I decided it was best to take advantage of the favourable conditions and hit the road.

As I left Prachuap, the sea was more turbulent than it had been the previous day, with waves crashing over the promenade and onto the road, and I opted for an alternative route.

With the wind at my back, I sped down the coast. The road veered back toward the highway to navigate a small national park, which I didn’t mind since the highway was quiet with a wide shoulder. A local cyclist caught up, and after a brief chat, I let him pass, but he waited. I turned into the national park to give him space, then returned to find him still waiting. Uncomfortable with his close following, I encouraged him to go ahead. Once past the park’s boundary, I veered off the highway towards the coast, and still he followed. I stopped to let him go first, but his glances back made me rethink my decision, so I returned to the highway, only turning off closer to Bang Krut.

In Bang Krut, I tried to find a spot out of the wind to drink some water and chatted with a friendly guy from Canada. We had a pleasant conversation before going our separate ways. I often encounter wonderful people during my travels.

I continued cycling until I reached Bang Saphan, where I considered camping in the national park. However, a tree had fallen due to the wind, landing on some campers and causing the campsite to close. As a result, I had to settle for a room in town.

 

16 December – Bang Saphan – Wua Laen Beach – 110 km

When I left Bang Saphan, it was already late, but with a strong tailwind at my back, I continued my journey further south. This stretch of the coast is a joy to cycle, and while I mainly followed the Royal Coastal Road, I often detoured to explore charming fishing villages and scenic viewpoints. I primarily travelled along rural lanes that wound through coconut, palm oil, and rubber tree plantations.

As the wind picked up, I was relieved not to be heading north. Instead, it helped propel me across large rivers, past colourful fishing villages, and the ever-present Buddha statues. My destination was Chumphon, but I couldn't resist stopping at the beautiful Wua Laen Beach, where I found a simple beach hut at 350 THB. In fact, I was so comfortable that I decided to stay for two days to sort out a few urgent matters.

Ultimately, I realised it was better to relocate to Chumphon town, which had all the necessary facilities. Once in Chumphon, I found an affordable hotel and booked a room for a few days. Soon, I signed all the required documents and just had to wait for the dentist to create a new retainer. Initially, the plan was to move and then take a bus back to pick up the retainer, but that seemed like an unnecessary hassle, so I decided to stay and additional three days.

There really isn’t much to do in Chumphon except visit the substantial night market to see what is on offer. A motorbike taxi took me to the Lotus shopping mall on the outskirts of town, and I learned to say “law-tis” instead of lotus! LOL. The poor motorbike taxi driver had no idea where I wanted to go until I figured I was pronouncing it wrong.

 

23 December - Chumphon – Fisherman Bangalow – 84 km

At last, I left Chumphon, even though I had received no word about the retainer I had ordered from the dentist. I was peed off, to say the least. Fortunately, it was another fantastic day on the road as I slowly made my way further south.

The tailwind prevailed, making cycling easy as I meandered through the countryside on quiet one-lane roads, taking me past more banana, coconut, and oil palm plantations. At times, I landed next to the ocean, and at other times, my chosen route took me inland. What a pleasure.

When I spotted Fisherman's Bungalows, I pulled in as I couldn't resist the basic accommodation on the beach. My humble bungalow was awfully small and felt somewhat rickety and I hoped it would survive the night. The beach was littered with ocean debris, blown onshore by the stormy north-easterly winds. Later, I cycled to a nearby shop, grabbed a few bits to nibble on, and then sat on my small veranda watching the angry waves.

 

24-25 December – Fisherman Bungalows – Surat Thani – 123 km

It was already late when I pedalled out of my overnight accommodation, as it took a while to get my bus rolling in such a confined space. LOL. One more superb day was spent cycling this delightful coastal area. Cycle touring doesn’t get much better than this, and I was grateful for the opportunity to live this life.

With all my stopping, it was well past four when I rolled into Surit Tani, where I headed straight to the well-known My Place Hotel, as they have budget rooms. Unfortunately, the cheaper options were all taken, and I settled for a more expensive room as I didn’t feel like schlepping my bags up to the fourth floor.

I spent a relaxing day in Surat Thani, a typical Thai city that is modern yet traditional. Strolling the street and gazing at the various stores was a pleasure. Some sold fish, others temple paraphernalia, or rice, and all happily coexisted on the same street.

 

26 December – Surat Thani – Tha Sala – 107 km

At first, I considered following the coast, but the weather was a bit blustery, so I decided to head slightly inland and take the main road instead. Although this option was easier, I often find the main road to be quite boring. Fortunately, I had a tailwind, which made the ride much easier.

The most enjoyable moment of the day was meeting a young cyclist from Russia named Valentine. He had been travelling for a few months and was on his way to Kuala Lumpur to catch a flight to India. The main road had a wide shoulder, allowing us to chat while cycling. Eventually, we parted ways, and shortly after that, it started to rain. Just then, I reached Tha Sala, and since there was a $10 room available along the main road, I decided to call it a day.

 

27 December – Tha Sala – Nikon Si Thammarat – 27 km

I left my humble abode on a wet and grey morning. The ride was comfortable despite the weather, even though it occasionally poured heavily. I remembered Valentine, the Russian gentleman I met the day before, mentioning that the forecast predicted heavy rain. Once I arrived in Si Thammarat, I decided it best to find a place to wait out the weather. Perhaps I overreacted a bit, as it rained intermittently throughout the day, but it wasn't as bad as predicted.

There isn’t much to do in Si Thammarat, but I walked to explore the remaining sections of the old city wall. It led me past the City Pillar Shrine, which is entirely white, and eventually through Sanam Na Muang Park.

Nakhon Si Thammarat is also famous for its traditional art of handmade shadow puppets. Finally, I learned that the black statue with the red finger I often see along the road represents one of the characters in this performance. Additionally, I discovered that traditional healing practices and folk medicine are still very much alive in Thailand. Rain or shine, I planned to move on the next day.

 

28 December - Nikon Si Thammarat – Cheewaporn Resort – 93 km

As soon as I left, I found myself on my usual route through coconut palm plantations. Despite the intermittent rain, I enjoyed biking this stretch. My chosen path eventually led me to the coast, where I encountered impressive wind turbines. I’m continually amazed by the size of these massive structures. Although the wind wasn’t as favourable as on previous days, the ride remained easy and the weather cleared around midday.

Around four o'clock, however, the weather turned again, prompting me to call it a day. I arrived at the Cheewaport Resort, located along a sandy track next to the ocean. The prices were higher than expected, but I was wet and didn’t feel like biking any further. The little bungalow I rented was well-equipped and spacious. When the lady offered to send someone to the shop to get me snacks and beer, I decided to go ahead despite the cost. I have such a rubber arm! LOL!

 

29 December - Cheewaporn Resort – Songkhla – 84 km

Early in the morning, the wind was already strong, stirring the sea into even rougher waves than the day before. At first, I considered following the coastal road, but the crosswind was too unpleasant, so I decided to take the main road, which seemed more sheltered. I didn't stop often—only to grab a quick drink of water—before continuing my ride. It wasn't that I was in a hurry; I just wanted to avoid the uncomfortable weather. How spoiled I've become!

Still, I found a surprising amount of history, here in the “Deep South”, and I cycled past several old temples. As I neared Songkhla, I discovered the remains of an ancient city and fortresses, and a bit further on, I found a Dutch cemetery. It appears that the Dutch were also present under the VOC's flag, searching for valuables. Shortly afterwards, I found a ferry operating across the opening of Songkhla Lake, saving me 10 to 15 kilometres of cycling along the main road.

Once in Songkhla town, an affordable-looking hotel lured me in and I decided not to look for a cheaper room since it was located in the vibrant old town I wanted to explore. As I wandered around, I noticed large groups of Thai tourists with cameras in hand. I felt like I was the only foreigner in the crowd. There's much to see in the area as Songkhla has a history dating back to the 10th century when it was a significant settlement that traded with places as far away as Quanzhou, China.

I spent the day in Songkhla, mostly wandering around the old city. Later, I took a motorbike taxi to the supermarket at the mall, which is always a nerve-wracking experience, LOL. What I found most interesting was how busy the mall was. I thought I was the only foreigner there, which attracted quite a few stares.

Although Thailand celebrates the Gregorian New Year enthusiastically, it is less significant than the Thai or Chinese New Year celebrations. I also realised that I was within spitting distance of Malaysia and, as a result, there is a strong Malay culture prevalent in this region. Although, in general, the Malaysians also celebrate the Islamic New Year, the Gregorian New Year is a big event, and the supermarket was filled with hijab-wearing women pushing trolleys filled to the brim. A smile crossed my face as I imagined the aroma wafting from Malay kitchens in Cape Town, South Africa. I eagerly anticipated my arrival in Malaysia to enjoy an authentic Malay samosa.

 

31 December – Songkhla – Padang Besar – 85 km

As I cycled out of Songkhla, the sun was already high in the sky. The ride was surprisingly pleasant, starting in the old town and continuing along the shores of Lake Songkla. I passed the large city of Hat Yai and made my way to the border town of Padang Besar via secondary roads.

I planned to cycle to the border and find a place to stay for the night, then cross into Malaysia in the morning. However, whenever I have a fixed idea of where I will stay or what route I will take, I can almost guarantee that I will do the exact opposite. Hahaha.

Today was no different and before I knew it, I found myself at the immigration office, where I hurriedly purchased travel insurance for the next two months, as it cannot be bought while already in a country. The border crossing was quite confusing! Eventually, I was stamped out of Thailand and into Malaysia.

Buying a new SIM card and withdrawing Malaysian currency took some time. The oil-rich Malaysian ringgit is somewhat stronger than the Thai baht, equating to approximately 4.3 to 4.5 ringgit per USD, while the Thai baht is around 30 to 35 THB per dollar. As a result, things are pricier in Malaysia.

I decided it was best to stay in the village since it was already past four o’clock. As always, I was taken aback by the significant difference that just a few kilometres can make. Buddhist temples were replaced with mosques, and ladies were dressed far more conservatively. Although there was an abundance of food, vegetarian options were nowhere to be found, and not a single shop sold beer. Eventually, I found a shop that sold beer from under the counter. LOL, I guess it won't be a very festive New Year! Happy 2025!

 

173 CYCLE TOURING CAMBODIA (10)

 173 CYCLE TOURING CAMBODIA (10)
2 October - 19 October 2024
1 042 Km – 17 Days

MAP

 

 

2-3 October - Muang Khong - Stung Treng - 100 km

I began my day with a steaming cup of coffee as I prepared for my ride across the bridge to join Route 13 South. Despite the brisk wind tugging at my clothes, I felt a surge of excitement at the prospect of returning to Cambodia after nearly five years when I cycled the country with my friends Megan, Erma, and Janice.

The process of getting stamped out of Laos turned out to be surprisingly straightforward, despite the border post's notorious reputation for bribery. The officers requested a $2 stamp fee, but I firmly declined, and they didn't push the issue. The Cambodian immigration process was much smoother, and I paid the $35 visa fee before resuming my journey.

The road leading south was in a sorry state due to ongoing repairs, covered in a thick layer of gravel that made cycling a challenge. Fortunately, motorbikes had carved out a single track next to the road. Although signs periodically indicated the "End of road work," the gravel would quickly reappear, and I kept reassuring myself with the mantra, "This too shall pass."

On a more positive note, I had the pleasure of meeting another cyclist from Japan who was also on a cycling adventure through Asia. I also discovered that Cambodia was in the midst of celebrating Pchum Ben, or the Festival of the Ancestors, one of the country's most significant and grandest festivals. I caught glimpses of the festivities, witnessing two-wheel tractors laden with villagers passing by in the opposite direction.

By the time I arrived in Stung Treng, it was late, and I struggled to find a hotel with available rooms, most likely due to the festivities. I settled for one that offered an air-conditioned room with a window for $12, but I found the cleanliness lacking, and I wondered if my frugality was worth it.

I decided to stay in Stung Treng the next day to withdraw Cambodian Riel or Khmer Riel (KHR) (4 000 KHR = 1 US$), a SIM card, and take care of a few other things.

 

4 October – Stung Streng – Preah Vihear – 140 km

I felt remarkably energetic, and the weather and the road were good. As a result, I pushed on. I forgot just how scenic Cambodia is. Numerous unusual sights kept me occupied, and I again realised just how comfortable the Cambodians are on a motorbike, as twice I saw people returning from the clinic with an IV drip bag on a stick attached to their arm.

I don't know what was in the drink I bought from a roadside vendor as I was so energetic that I cycled the 140 km to Preah Vihear. Once there I was more than happy to find Javier Guest House, which has a lovely large room for only $7.

 

5 October – Preah Vihear – Phumi Moreal, Heng Heng Guest House – 83 km

I wasn’t all bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, and my morning search for a baguette revealed nothing, so I got on the road and headed toward Siam Reap. Again, the scenery was unsurpassed, and it turned out to be a lovely day of riding. Sixty km later, I came upon Koh Ker, a UNESCO World Heritage and Archaeological Site. This Ancient capital of the Khmer Empire between 921 and 944 CE is now partially hidden in a dense forest; I dropped my bags at a guesthouse and went exploring. It was after six p.m. that I returned and headed straight to a restaurant, starving.

 

6 October – Phumi Moreal – Siam Reap – 100 km

It rained throughout the night, and I could still hear it pouring when I woke up. I stayed in bed with a coffee and played on my phone until I heard that the rain subsided. It was thus late morning by the time I saddled my old iron horse for the ride to Siam Reap. I felt immensely happy to be on the bike, pedalling down a rural road. The sound of children calling “Hello Farang” always brought a smile to my face, their voices blending with the sound of cattle. If you didn’t respond, they would keep calling louder and louder, their excitement echoing through the countryside.

This is such a rural part of Cambodia that, at times, I could imagine I'm on a different planet. By the time I neared touristy Siam Reap, I was somewhat taken aback by the urgency of the drivers and the chaotic dance of traffic, which sharply contrasted with the peaceful countryside. Still, I joined this dance and made my way to Smiley Guesthouse, which has ground-floor budget rooms and a swimming pool. It’s a good place to lay low, and I paid for three nights.

On stepping out, I thought I could easily spend the three days eating as the aroma of the local delicacies wafted through the air. I imagined myself exploring all the culinary delights of the area.

The following day, I took the bicycle to the bike shop to be cleaned and oiled. I was shocked at the prices in Siam Reap. When prices are quoted in US$, you know you have been overcharged. So, nothing much came of eating at all the restaurants that looked so inviting the previous evening as they were clearly priced with tourists in mind. Eventually, I grabbed a baguette with egg and salad from a mobile vendor at less than half the price at the sit-down restaurants. I also handed in my laundry to get a proper machine wash as it’s a fee I never complain about.

 

9 October Siam Reap – Stoung – 102 km

I made a bit of a detour because I didn’t want to cycle along the main road, but the minor road I chose soon spat me out on the main road south. I guess I’ll never get used to Cambodia's ingenious means of transport. There is nothing they cannot transport by bicycle or a two-wheel tractor.

Once away from Siam Reap, the road was quiet and a pleasure to cycle. The rain lasted no more than 10 minutes, and soon, the sun was shining bright again. I met the nicest people; a man stopped and handed me a Pocari Sweat. How nice was that? Later, I stopped to take a break and met a mum and her daughter who could speak some English. She was ever so helpful, and we took a few selfies.

I was on the old Khmer highway between Angkor and Phnom Penh. It's a new road today, but surprisingly, the Kampong Kdei Bridge is still in use. Built in the 12th century, Spean Praptos, also known as Kampong Kdei Bridge, used to be the longest corbeled stone-arch bridge in the world, with over twenty narrow arches spanning 87 metres.

I arrived in Stoung around four p.m. It is a typical Cambodian small town with a market, a temple, muddy roads, a petrol station, bug vendors, and the ever-present mobile food carts. My guest house cost 8 Dollars, and the room was as big as a dancehall. Taking the stir my presence created, I didn’t think a farang had ever stayed at this establishment; great was my surprise thus when I discovered a young American lady also staying at the guesthouse and travelling by bicycle. She was heading to Siam Reap and this was her fourth day on her first cycling holiday.

 

10 October - Stoung – Won With Guest House – 110 km

In a 2021 survey, it was found that approximately 63 percent of households in Cambodia are engaged in agricultural production. It's thus common to see wooden houses on stilts with chickens, buffalos, cows, palm and mango trees next to rice fields. Today, I came across many "Ambok" or flattened rice producers along the road. The rice seemed to be first roasted in a pan with a mechanical stirrer, then pounded in a wooden bowl and separated from the husk in a sieve. During the rice harvest, some rice is specially prepared for certain Khmer ceremonies and family gatherings. I regret not buying any, but hopefully, I'll find them again tomorrow. After 110 km, I found Win With Guesthouse, a perfect spot midway between Phnom Penh and Stoung. Once again, the experience of finding food was fascinating and amusing.

 

11 October – Win With or Von Vith guest house - Phnom Penh 110km

The ride to Phnom Pehn was surprisingly easy, as it is a new road. Still, it was pretty boring, and I believe that my ride along the river trail was far more interesting. However, it was easy riding, although not much happened except for stopping at Skun, known as Spider Village. The reason is that it’s a place well known for the exotic cuisine of tarantulas. Vendors sold deep-fried tarantulas coated in garlic and chillies, and although the aroma was appetising, I don’t think I can ever get myself to eat a tarantula. The last stretch into the capital was easy-going except for the chaotic traffic. I rarely made a booking, but this time I did, and as always, it was a total disaster, and I didn’t stay at the place booked. I, however, easily found a room as just about every second building in Phnom Pehn is a guesthouse.

I stayed in Phnom Penh for three nights as I quite like the place, and I had the usual housekeeping to attend to. I also met up with Matt, a friend for many years and we had supper at the Addis Restaurant. I love Ethiopian food, and the food at Addis is excellent and it made for a lovely and relaxing evening.

 

14 October – Phnom Penh – Krong Doun Kaev – 103 km

As I left the bustling city of Phnom Penh, I found myself navigating through the chaotic Monday morning traffic. It always takes some time to adjust to the constant flow of vehicles and the need to trust the traffic around me. Once I cleared the city limits, I followed a narrow path along the serene Bassac River. A sign directed towards Chisor Mountain Temple caught my eye, prompting me to change my course to the west. To my delight, I stumbled upon the ancient ruins of this 11th-century temple perched high on a hill, accessible by a lengthy staircase. Despite the heat and swarms of mosquitoes, I persevered and was delighted to reach the remains of this old temple. However, my battle with the mosquitoes eventually forced me to cut my visit short. By the time I finished, it was already late afternoon, but I decided to cycle to the next village, which was only 30 km away.

 

15-17 - October – Krong Doun Kaev – Kampot - 86 km

Again, the Main Road to Kampot was a dead boring affair. That said, the road was new, wide and in good condition, so I shouldn’t complain. It’s just that I don’t like such predictability. In any event, I stuck to the main road and soon landed in the lovely riverside town of Kampot. I’ve visited Kampot on many occasions and this time I chose to stay in the village. Good Morning Kampot Guesthouse was an ideal place to stay as it was slap bang in the centre and right on the river. It also offered spacious budget rooms on the upper floors with a restaurant below. Reviews stated that the food was excellent; I think whoever made those comments must have been British, as the food was so bland that I had to ask for a portion of fresh chillies to make it more palatable. LOL

I paid for two nights and was thus slow to rise the following morning. With no plans for the day, I handed in my laundry as whenever I have a chance of having my laundry done for a dollar, I can’t resist. I did truly little the rest of the day except visit the Kampot market as no one can be in Kampot and not go to the market or buy the famous Kampot pepper, known as the best pepper in the world.

I was up early to collect my laundry, but the lady couldn’t find it and asked that I return later. There wasn’t much to do in Kampot, so I took my bicycle and cycled to the old fishing village on the opposite side of the river. Much later, I returned and was happy to find that my laundry was located. I was so happy that I treated myself to Nachos & Gaugamela in Kampot Alley, where noodles are still handmade, and something is always steaming in a pot.

 

18 October – Kampot – Srae Ambel – 108 km

After doing almost nothing for two full days, I felt pretty energetic and was eager to get underway. I had no specific plan and contemplated going to Sihanoukville.

The day started with a lovely scenic ride, and I was happy to be out on the bike. This euphoria, however, came to a grinding halt when the paved road abruptly disappeared after approximately 25 km. It was not a disaster until I realised this was no ordinary dirt road but one that had been neglected for years, and I thought it resembled a minefield (not that I knew what it looked like). In any event, I persevered, bouncing over the potholes and slip-sliding through the muddy patches. Conditions worsened as the day progressed, and I had my eye set on the junction 20 km away, believing conditions would improve from there. I clawed onto the handlebars for dear life, and after 5 km, I stopped to take a breather, feeling happy I managed 5 km. My wrists and arms felt shaky, but I returned to the bike, determined to reach the main road. And so it went until I reached the junction.

It was already quite late, and instead of going to Sihanoukville, I decided to head straight to Srae Ambel. You can imagine my surprise when I found the road (although paved) in dreadful condition, busy and narrow. So narrow was the road that two trucks could barely pass one another, let alone avoid bicycles or motorbikes. Motorbikes mainly used the no-man’s land next to the paved road, and I followed suit. This was no easy ride as the no-man’s land wasn’t meant for vehicles and was by then potholed and muddy. I was in this mess and had to persevere. The continuous rain didn’t make the ride any more manageable. Once, I stopped for coffee to get out of the rain and rest my wrists, but I still had a way to go and soon got back on the bike.

A new road was in the process of being constructed, which made the way one huge construction site. The hills encountered at the end of the day left me gasping for air, but I pushed on, and 5 km from Srae Amble, the weather came in again, and I pedalled like a woman possessed to reach the town before the storm broke. I reached the town just as raindrops started falling and pulled into the nearest Guest House. I was relieved I made it but soon discovered it was a brothel, LOL, not that I could care less as I was far too tired to be concerned about that.

 

19 October - Srae Ambel - Koh Kong – by bus

I was optimistic about the new road leading to the border being completed, but unfortunately, that wasn't the reality. Despite my determination to continue, the mud clogged the chain and gears, forcing me to stop and clear the wheels. What a mess! Seeking advice on the road conditions ahead, I stopped at a roadside eatery, only to be informed that the road was impassable for a bicycle. Although I usually take such warnings lightly, I decided to heed the advice this time. I was directed to a bus, where I was surprised to find no seats, just an open space. As we traversed the bumpy road, the driver and his companion were incredibly amiable, even buying me a coffee and offering water and a baguette. Initially told that the journey would take seven hours to cover 125 km, I was relieved when we arrived in Koh Kong after just 5 hours. I paid the driver 50,000 riel for the ride, which I thought was a bargain. He seemed content with the payment and even offered me change, which made me chuckle. Afterwards, I cycled around town searching for budget accommodation and found Rene’s Pasta Bar & Guesthouse, which offered a fan room for only $11. The room was sparkling clean, the staff helpful, and the food delicious. I couldn’t be happier.

 

CYCLE TOURING THAILAND

KOH KONG – PATTAYA

20 OCTOBER – 23 OCTOBER

4 DAYS – 355 KM

 

20 October – Koh Kong – Trat – 100 km

I had a slow start this morning. Every task seemed to drag on forever, and I even considered staying another day. However, since my bags were packed, I decided to cycle to the money exchange and convert my remaining Cambodian Riel to Thai Baht. The distance to the Cambodia-Thailand border was only about 10 km, but by the time I left the immigration office, it was already past 12. I felt completely drained and lacked the energy for the 90 km ride to Trat. The route to Trat was quite hilly, and my legs were not cooperating. Despite this, I persevered, knowing it was a beautiful ride on a well-maintained road. I entertained the idea of settling for a roadside motel, but I daydreamed so much that I suddenly realised I was only 30 km away from Trat. Fifteen km from Trat, the sky darkened, and someone jokingly shouted, "Rain is coming!" Before I knew it, it was dark and raining; I couldn't help but think I must be crazy. However, at that point, I had no choice but to keep going. It was a nerve-racking experience. Eventually, I arrived in Trat and had to walk the bike through the darkness and rain, searching for a guesthouse. Finally, I spotted one and knocked on the already closed door. Being incredibly kind, the owner let a drenched farang (me and my bicycle) into his guesthouse. The room was available for just $7, and I couldn't believe my luck. The room was quite colourful. 🤣🤣🤣

 

21 October - Trat – Chantaburi – 70 km

Even though this is usually a pleasant ride, I was not in the mood for cycling, but knew it had to be done. Fortunately, the ride was short, and the weather perfect, making biking easy. I chose a pleasant route through old hamlets and passed even older temples. I love these country lanes. My arrival in Chanthaburi was just as a few raindrops started falling and checked into the nearest hotel. The Muangchan Hotel is hidden but offers ground-floor rooms at 350 THB. I would have easily paid more to avoid carrying my panniers up a floor or two. Later, I strolled to the night market, always a fascinating affair, but it remained virtually impossible to find vegetarian food.

 

22 October – Chantaburi – Rayong - 115km

I didn't want to be back in Thailand and wasn't keen on the ride to Pattaya. Still, I thought it best to extend my non-immigrant visa as it's a pretty handy visa. It's not that this part of Thailand isn't interesting; it's just that I've cycled it too many times, and it's never nice to return to where you started just a few months ago. Anyway, I reluctantly made my way in that direction and, after 115 km, arrived in Rayong, where I cycled straight to Richy Grant Guesthouse. It's easily the cheapest accommodation in town and comes with washing machines, which is always a bonus. I've been here so many times, the owner gave me a discount on the room. LOL.

 

23 October – Rayong – Jomtien, Pattaya – 70 km

Instead of taking my usual coastal route, I took the main road and cycled (almost) nonstop to Jomtien where I arrived hungry because I didn't stop for food. I eventually found my key, which I had forgotten what I had done with. Everything was exactly as I left it, except for a layer of dust, which didn't bother me too much. It was good to have a decent shower, coffee, and beer. I decided to do the laundry later. While hanging out the laundry, I heard someone call my name. Leo and Sammy were on their way to the Corner Bar, so I went downstairs to join them for a cold one.

 

24 October – Jomtien

I did nothing productive all day except watch the robot vacuum, sweep, and mop, LOL. However, I did walk across the road to the day market to stock up on eggs and potatoes, as putting eggs in a steamer and a potato in the microwave is pretty straightforward. By late afternoon, I strolled to the beach, and it was a real privilege. I sat on the sand, scolding myself for feeling restless, when I should be grateful for the opportunity to have just completed a lovely circular route in Southeast Asia through three countries in 8 leisurely weeks, covering 3,371 km.