LAOS (4) - SEARCHING FOR A CHINESE VISA EN ROUTE TO VIETNAM897
Kilometres – 33 Days2
September – 5 October 2016
2
September- Bangkok – Nang Khai, Thailand – Vientiane, Laos - 25 km
I’d
a good sleep on the train and we reached Nong Khai at around 7h00 from where a three-kilometre
walk led to Mut Mee Guesthouse. Then, as I’d nothing more to do in Thailand, I
loaded the bike and pedalled towards the border.
The
crossing was uneventful and an easy cycle across the Friendship Bridge took me to
Laos and Vientiane. My first stop was at the Chinese Embassy to inquire
regarding a visa and collect the forms. To my surprise, the visa application
took two weeks. Not a great deal one could do, but head into the city to locate
digs at the Dhaka Hotel. Unfortunately, the place was infamous for bedbugs, and
the room required a good spray before unpacking.
As
was my habit in a new country, I drew local currency and sorted out a new SIM
card. Walking, I heard someone call my name, and lo and behold, would it not be
Ernest. Indeed, a voice from the past. We shared a beer and chatted about where
we’ve been and where we’re heading.
3-11
September - Vientiane
Time
passed slowly in Vientiane and, I moved to Christian’s place. Christian, a
Warmshowers host, hailed from Germany and worked in Laos. He’d a lovely condo
located right upon the Mekong River, and I’d a bedroom all to myself; a good
thing as well, as Christian is as neat as a pin, and it will suffice to say,
I’m not in the same class.
12
September – Vientiane – Ban Vang - 105 km
The
19th was a week away, and best to head upriver, not by boat, but by bicycle. I
thus saddled up and followed the Mekong River in a westerly direction. The
river spread big and wide in front of me as I slowly made my way along its
banks past numerous rural communities. The sweet voices of children calling,
“Sawadee, falang” (hello, foreigner) mixed with the sounds of cowbells and the bleating
of baby goats, brought a smile to my face.
The
scenery was sublime, revealing typical Laos cloud formations and low-lying fog
over the mountains, all making a brilliant day of biking. Indigenous markets, selling
a meagre collection of banana hearts and bamboo shoots, dotted the road. The
first section of the ride was along a smooth and relatively flat road, but
halfway the route changed to a narrow winding road, which led up hills and
snaked through tiny settlements where it took dodging both chickens and
piglets. Judging by the attention my presence created, this wasn’t an area
frequented by “farangs”, as kids giggled and pointed and dogs scurried away to
the safety of their yards.
Hundred
and Five kilometres later, a guesthouse got my attention. As I hadn’t seen one
all day, I believed making it my overnight stop was a good idea. It offered a
basic restaurant across the road, selling the usual noodle soup, beer, water
and sodas. Very much my kind of place, despite the bed being rock hard.
13
September – Ban Vang – 50 km
The
day didn’t start as planned as I stepped out of bed onto a scorpion. The poor
thing was dead, but it still gave a painful sting, and I jumped around, holding
my foot like a crazed woman. However, I didn’t think there were any deadly
scorpions in Laos. I thus didn’t wait until blurred vision and palpitations set
in.
Soon
after leaving Ban Vang, the road changed into a dirt track, making a bumpy and
slow ride. Nevertheless, I slowly crept up the sharp inclines and descended
equally slowly, avoiding most potholes and rough sections while watching
Thailand along the river’s opposite bank, knowing they had an excellent paved
road. Nevertheless, it remained a beautiful ride offering stunning vistas and
distant mountains.
There
were barely villages; only the odd buffalo looked up in surprise as I sped
past. An email concerning an apartment I was buying made me call it a day
shortly past midday. Paklay was a further 50 kilometres and over a
rough-looking set of mountains which helped me make up my mind.
I
might’ve been too much in a hurry departing Vientiane, as I was required to
print, sign, scan, and email several documents.
14
September - Ban Vang - Vientiane - by bus
I
woke to the crowing of cocks and cackling of hens, and I decided to bus myself
to Vientiane to do what had to be done.
Early
morning the short ride to the bus stand was fascinating as people were out
doing what they usually did. Kids went to school; farmers were on their way to
the field, women shopped at markets, while others were coming from or going to
the temple.
At
the taxi stand, the driver had no problem taking the bicycle. Although no
English was spoken, they clearly understood my intentions. Generally, these
minivans waited until they were full before departing, and I’d a delicious
plate of noodle soup while waiting. I was happy inside the van as the rain came
pouring down, making the road a muddy mess. In Vientiane, I returned to Mixok
Guesthouse and organised all that had to be done the following day.
15-18
September, Vientiane
Once
the forms were signed and scanned, I stopped at the old city wall. Initially,
three brick walls surrounded Vientiane, but Siamese troops destroyed the city in
the middle of the 16th century. Today, only a tiny section of the original wall
remains. I was convinced most people didn’t know it existed, let alone visit
the site and I thoroughly enjoyed myself.
Then
off to the Buddha Park, quite a bizarre setup. The park is filled with
reinforced concrete Buddhist and Hindu sculptures of all shapes and sizes,
including a gigantic reclining Buddha. The park was built in the late 1950s by
a priest/monk/guru/artist who combined the Buddhist and Hindu philosophies in
his peculiar way. He subsequently left Laos (as he disagreed with the communist
view of the government) and settled across the Mekong River in Thailand.
19
September - Vientiane
In
the morning, I picked up my long-awaited Chinese visa. Afterwards, I made copies
of the documents that needed certifying prior to being scanned and emailed. I further
popped into the hairdresser and came out looking considerably better than going
in. Then off searching a place to certify a copy of my passport, which turned
out significantly harder than envisaged as I got news from the attorneys it
should be done at the South African embassy or a Notary Public. As there was no
South African Embassy in Laos, finding a Notary Public (who spoke English)
proved far more challenging than anticipated.
20
September - Vientiane
Ready
to leave, I was astounded and couldn’t believe my eyes when I received an email
from the attorneys, including seven further documents that needed signing. It
wasn’t the number of documents that shocked me, but the pure incompetence of
the so-called professional people in South Africa. I was in Vientiane for over
two weeks and sent various emails to the attorneys stating my situation,
emphasising I needed all the documents before 19 September. I was on my way to
China, where I quite possibly wouldn’t have access to the internet, let alone
find a Notary Public.
The
sad part was this firm didn’t care if they caused one to miss a bus or flight
or if they caused one to incur additional costs. They knew they were needed to
do the transfer, and therefore didn’t need to provide a service. They further
charged an astronomical amount for this so-called service; I was understandably
livid!
Nine
o’clock, I was at the Office of the Supreme People’s Prosecutor of Laos PDR to
find a Notary Public to certify the documents (which didn’t come cheap). Then
back to the internet to scan and email the papers. Late afternoon, I returned
to my room, paid an extra night at the Mixok Guesthouse, and carried my bags
upstairs. What a pain. By then, I’d changed my plans as I’d wasted far too much
time. I feared it would be far too cold up north. I hence assumed it better to
cycle China via Vietnam and cycle coastal China.
21
September – Vientiane – Thabok – 97 km
Mixok
Guesthouse felt like home, but I was ready to cycle out of Vientiane. I’d
breakfast while waiting until my laundry returned and then got underway.
Hallelujah! “Are you leaving us?” the chap at reception asked, smiling as I’ve
gone through this procedure a few times by then.
A
massive grin spread across my face as I biked out of town, seeing Vientiane disappearing
in my rear-view mirror. I am always thrilled out on the bike; it’s like a
curse—a nice one. A baguette stall made it convenient bagging lunch before
proceeding in the company of school kids on bikes down a country lane. Even
though I’d cycled this exact route not too long before, I again marvelled at
ladies in conical hats, selling their wares from shoulder poles and old ladies
sitting, bent over weaving brooms from dry wild grasses. Markets are interesting
as they sell everyday things—brooms, woven baskets for steaming rice, charcoal
stoves made of clay, and woven mats used to sit and sleep upon. I even passed
the motorbike salesman selling live goldfish in small plastic bags.
Although
hot and humid, the day was one of easy riding. Reaching Thabok, a convenient
guesthouse, got my attention, and I took it as a sign to use it as an overnight
stop.
22
September – Thabok – Pakkading – 100 km
“Sabaidee
falang,” small kids called as I pedalled past, and grownups looked up in
surprise, asking the by-then familiar question, “Where you go?” I responded
with a wave and a smile as there was no point in explaining. The visibility was
poor, and I expected rain any minute, which fortunately never materialised.
That
part of Laos was highly rural, and I never tired of watching ladies
leading buffalo to greener pastures or lone anglers sitting in a long,
narrow boat patiently waiting for fish to bite. The rice fields were still
luminous green and appeared even more so under a cloudy sky. I watched kids
jump off bridges into the river below and was happy to see them enjoying
themselves. Then, finally, I caught an excellent slipstream behind a two-wheel
tractor (lack of a better word). Not simply is it a remarkably versatile
machine, but it provides a perfect slipstream at a steady 20 kilometres per
hour.
I
thus reached sleepy Pak Kading early. It made an excellent overnight stop at
the confluence of the Mekong and Kading River, said one of the most pristine
rivers in Laos.
23
September - Pak Kading – Aomchay Guesthouse, Ban Thangbeng - 106 km
Departing
Pak Kading was in a slight drizzle, a drizzle which continued all morning. It
wouldn’t have been all terrible was it not having a stomach problem. Arggh,
there’s never a dull moment and no fun searching a bush to hide behind in the
rain. Fortunately, the weather cleared around midday, and although still
overcast, it didn’t prevent a nice ride.
Around
15h00, dark clouds gathered, and although just a few kilometres remained to the
next village, I doubted I would make it. However, my gut feel was right and no
sooner did the sky darken and rain came pelting down, making me find cover in a
hurry. In the company of motorbikes, I waited until the storm passed.
Three
kilometres further was a guesthouse, offering a warm shower which was greatly
appreciated as I felt cold by then. Then, dressed in dry clothes, I strolled to
a nearby eatery and was amazed at the food quality. In no time at all, and in
the most basic kitchen, they whipped up a dish so delicious one would still
reminisce about it years later.
24
September – Aomchay Guesthouse – Thakhek - 54 km
A
short but picturesque ride ran to Thakhek. The weather cleared, making a
perfect morning as I pedalled off. En route, I stumbled upon a traditional
market selling illegal wildlife. I say it’s illegal as they didn’t want me to
take pictures and hide items under the table (like a baby deer and a
furry-looking catlike animal). Still, I sneaked a few shots as what they were
selling was too weird: iguanas, squirrels, rats, bats, and what could be guinea
pigs. Even the fish appeared unknown.
Ahead
of Thakhek, I stopped at what is known as the Great Wall of Laos. This wall
fascinated me as it’s a geological phenomenon caused by fissures. Still, its
physical resemblance to a human-made structure gave rise to many Laos myths
regarding its origin. Some claim the wall was built during the Sikhottabong
Empire in the 19th century as a defence system; others believe it was used as a
dyke to stem rising floodwaters. I rode into town, found suitable accommodation
on the banks of the river, and, as was my habit, hurried to the market on the
hunt for food.
25
September - Thakhek
One
more day was spent in Thakhek as I explored a few nearby caves. So I packed the
camera gear, hailed a tuk-tuk and set off to the Buddha Cave. Unfortunately, I
didn’t cycle due to rumours of poor road conditions. “Poor condition” was an understatement,
as the road was one muddy mess. The tuk-tuk bounced along over potholes and
through muddy puddles. Eventually, it took pushing the tuk-tuk through the
worst of it, arriving at the cave a tad messy. The entrance fee to the cave was
Five thousand Kip, plus five thousand to rent a traditional Laos skirt. A price
I didn’t pay as I brought a sarong. The biggest surprise came once inside, as a
sign stated no photographs and that following the effort of getting there.
The
cave, nevertheless, has an exciting history. It was said discovered in 2004 by
a farmer hunting bats. He unearthed 229 bronze Buddha statues inside the cave, presumed
more than 450-years-old. The Buddhas are assumed to have formed part of the
royal collection hidden there when the Thais ransacked Vientiane. The hills
around Thakhek are littered with caves, but I didn’t want to spend more money
and return to Thakhek. What an unsuccessful day.
26–27
September - Thakhek – Savannakhet – 125 km
I
stuck to the river trail, which eventually petered out altogether. I, however,
located a minor path running parallel to the river. The ride was a pleasant one
past innumerable fishing communities. Unfortunately, the dirt track deteriorated
further, and traffic snaked around potholes on the rough gravel road. Storm
clouds gathered, and soon it started bucketing down. A shelter provided a place
to wait out the storm, which took forever to pass; as a result, I slinked into
Savannakhet in the dying moments of the day, where I immediately made a B-line for
the night market.
I
handed in my Vietnamese visa application the following day, a straightforward
process. The form was no more than one page, and I could collect it the next
day. I consequently had the rest of the day at leisure, and stinking hot, I
stayed put and sorted out my growing number of photos, a long-overdue job.
28-29
September - Vientiane
September
wasn’t a good month for Aries, and I was pleased to see the end of it. Unfortunately,
Mercury had been retrograding since the beginning of the month and though it
ended on 22 September, I still felt the effects. In short, the Mercury
retrograde meant communication was fucked up, and things were delayed. (Think
Chinese visa and legal documents coming through in drips and drabs.)
In
Savannakhet, I received an email requesting signatures and verification of two
more documents. Give me strength! To find a Notary Public isn’t an easy task,
especially for one who owns an English stamp. Early morning, I thus hopped on a
bus to Vientiane. Unfortunately, the bus took far longer than anticipated, and
we arrived in Vientiane after 17h00. And there I thought I could be back the
same day!
My
urgency was due to my Laos visa expiring in two days and a two- or three-day
ride remained from Savannakhet to the border. However, there are certain things
one can do nothing about. (Smile and breathe deeply.)
First
thing in the morning, I was at the immigration office to extend my Laos visa.
Still, I could only pick up the passport the following day, meaning another day
until returning to Savannakhet. (Smile and breathe deeply.) Then off to the
courthouse to verify my documents, but was informed all were in a meeting and
to return later (smile and breathe deeply). Eventually, the forms were
verified, stamped, signed, emailed and DHL-ed. All that remained was to collect
the visa extension at 10h30 the following morning, then bus to Savannakhet to
collect the Vietnamese visa and head to Vietnam. The tide was changing – I
hoped. Time to relax, sit down, have a beer, and enjoy the sunset.
30
September - 1 October - Savannakhet
Ten
o’clock sharp, I was at the immigration office to collect my Laos visa
extension and then straight to the bus station to catch the Savannakhet bus,
and where we arrived shortly past 21h00. Super excited to get going, I was up
early and walked the short distance to the Vietnamese consulate to collect my
visa, only to realise it was a Saturday!
Although
Savannakhet is a small town, it’s pleasant enough to spend the weekend. I
walked around the old quarters, by then a shadow of what it was in its heyday.
Over 100-year-old buildings made great photo opportunities at sunset. The
riverfront offered countless food vendors was a perfect place to pick up a bite
to eat or try my hand at panning shots. I ended up at the night market and
realised I didn’t have my handlebar bag/camera bag. I practically had a heart
attack; not merely was the bag precious to me, but it contained my entire life,
i.e. passport, important personal documents and all bank cards!
In
a huff, I retraced my steps (the hassle of applying for a new passport flashed
in front of my eyes); First, I swung by the old quarters, but there was nothing
there. I then retraced my steps to the lively riverfront, and even from a
distance, I could see the bag exactly where I left it. Surrounded by people
enjoying the sunset, sat the bag with its valuable content!
I
wondered how many places in the world could leave a bag sitting in such a
well-visited area and return later to find it still there. I thanked the people
sitting next to it - they looked at me as if they didn’t know why I was
thanking them – and I returned to the night market where I’d left my beer.
Apart from the ice which melted, the beer was precisely where I’d left it, and
I considered moving to Laos.
2-3
October - Savannakhet – Roadside Guesthouse - 115km
Hurray!
I finally departed Savannakhet, and at 7h30, I was at the Vietnamese consulate
to collect my visa. The guy behind the counter was kind and dated the visa from
the date collected instead of the date handed in. One last hiccup remained as I
emerged, to my phone being dead as a doornail. I swung by the Samsung office
and fortunately, the culprit was only a faulty memory card. Phew! I felt good
as I pedalled out of town in the direction of the Vietnamese border. En route I
came upon one of the old war relics. The CIA operation, which ran from 1961
until 1975, became known as the Secret War. Unlike in the well-known Vietnam
War, the fighting was done not by American soldiers but by the CIA’s
mercenaries. During that period, 2.1 million tonnes of ordnance were released
over Laos. COPE (in Vientiane) aims to provide Orthotic and Prosthetic and
ensure people with physical disabilities have free access to nationally managed
rehabilitation services. I got the following off their website.
STATISTICS
TO REMEMBER:
260
Million - Estimated number of sub-munitions (bombies) from cluster bombs
dropped over Laos PDR between 1964 and 1973
2
Million tonnes - Estimated ordnance dropped on Laos PDR between 1964 and 1973
580
000 - Estimated number of bombing missions flown over Laos PDR between 1964 and
1973
30%
- An estimated failure rate of sub-munitions under ideal conditions
80
Million - Estimated number of sub-munitions that failed to explode
1,090,228
- Estimated number of unexploded sub-munitions destroyed by UXO LAOS from 1996
to December 2009
300
- Estimated number of new casualties from UXO incidents every year in Laos PDR
Sources:
NRA Annual Report 2009/NRA Website
Fortunately,
the rest of the day was in a lighter mood, although I still wanted to read “The
Ravens”. A book about the men who flew in America’s Secret War in Laos: I
intended to download it as soon as I had a better internet connection. The
section between the Mekong River and the Vietnam border is relatively rural with
vast natural forests. I understood there were still communities living off the
forest. The rice paddies were slowly changing colour, and instead of the
luminous green, it was a much softer yellowish-brown. Roughly 115 kilometres
down the drag, I spotted a guesthouse and deemed it a good enough place and
time to call it a day.
4
October - Roadside Guesthouse – Ban Dong – 120 km
I
savoured my last day of cycling in Laos. The area was as rural as I remembered
from seven years ago and as then, it reminded me of Africa. Bare-bum kids were
running amok, playing with old tyres. Yet, at the same time, heavenly smells
drifted across from women cooking on open fires. Chickens and goats had the run
of the road, and in each village, my arrival was announced by the shrill
“falang, falang” from kids.
All-day,
serious-looking mountains loomed ahead, but nothing came of it as the road
cleverly snaked around them, making easy pedalling. As rice harvesting had
begun in all earnest, women were selling bunches of dried bamboo slivers tying
freshly-cut rice into bundles. The area was exceptionally scenic, featuring
green valleys and misty mountains, none of which I captured on film. I further
met two cyclists, the first in many a month. We’d a long chat, but as they
still had a way to go and so did I, we soon parted ways. Nevertheless, I
continued an additional 20 kilometres or so. Shortly before the border, a convenient
roadside guesthouse appeared and I immediately ordered a large bowl of noodle
soup.
5
October - Ban Dong, Laos – Lao Bao, Vietnam – 20 km
A
short ride took me to the border, where a quick stamp in the passport allowed a
30-day stay in Vietnam. The small village of Lao Bao was a short distance, and
I made a quick detour into town to draw Vietnamese currency (a whopping
3,000,000 dong – $1US = 22,000 dong) and to pick up a new SIM card.
