HONG KONG

Hong Kong & Macau 

28 March - 5 May 2014

(0km – 36 Days)

 

28 March - Hong Kong

At seven o'clock the following morning, the bus arrived at the border. After crossing into Hong Kong, I decided to continue by bike but was stopped by police a few kilometres later. They informed me that cycling wasn’t allowed on these roads, and the area had no bicycle-friendly roads leading to Hong Kong. A few minutes later, the same bus I had taken earlier came by and picked me up, which I thought amusing.

Once on Hong Kong Island, I decided to try cycling and asked the bus driver to drop me off. I was amazed by how busy and developed the area was. Skyscrapers and high-rise buildings surrounded me, and buses and trams crisscrossed the island. I felt small and insignificant as I navigated through this massive city.

Finding affordable accommodation in Hong Kong was my top priority. Still, my plans hit a snag when I realised that the World Rugby-7s event was taking place that weekend, making it nearly impossible to secure a place to stay.

After searching, I managed to find a room at Alisan Guesthouse, but it was only their "staff" room which had a small bed and limited space. Despite its shortcomings, it was one of the cheapest options in Hong Kong, so I took it and continued my search for a place to stay for the night as the room was only available from the following day.

The only hotel with rooms available was the Holiday Inn, which made me question its value for money. Nevertheless, I planned to meet with Carlos, a South African friend who lived in Hong Kong, later that evening. Carlos had a meeting on the island, but once he was done, we met for coffee and had a long chat, catching up on the years we had missed. 

29 March - Hong Kong

The main reason for visiting Hong Kong was to obtain a new Chinese visa, so first thing in the morning, I went in search of the China Visa application centre, only to be told the longest they could grant was a seven-day stay. However, a bigger problem was that my passport was almost full, with only two empty pages.

Since access to the room at Alisan was only at 13h00, I roamed the city’s busy streets and was amazed by the large number of rugby fans dressed in their team colours for the big game. Despite my passport crisis, I pretended everything was fine and headed to the port, where a ferry ride across the bay was only $2.80.

Once back on the island, I climbed an escalator that led to Mid-Level. From there, one could walk to the tram station, taking people to the viewpoint. However, I didn't want to wait in the long queue and continued on foot.

The plan was to wait until the following day to search for the South African Embassy to enquire about obtaining a new passport, and then locate the China Resource Centre and see if it was possible to secure a new visa.

 

31 March

My endeavours were fruitless as the embassy informed me that a new passport would take four months. Despite this, I filled out the necessary forms, took pictures, and paid the fee. However, I had no intention of waiting for four months!

At the China Visa Office, the line was incredibly long. When it was my turn, the staff informed me that the maximum stay was 15 days and that one needed to provide proof of accommodation and transportation. I was frustrated and tempted to say, “Fuck that”, but instead, I gathered my things and took a coffee break. Later, I realised that I’d left my recently purchased umbrella behind. At that point, nothing surprised me anymore and best to expect the worst.

At least when the city got too much, there was always a temple nearby, including a few interesting ones. Dwarfed by the high-rises, these tiny temples offered peace and calm in contrast to the hectic city life. Giant incense coils hung from ceilings, from which smoke slowly rose. It's believed some of them can burn as long as three weeks.

To put matters in perspective, without a Chinese visa, I was virtually stuck in Hong Kong, from where it would require flying out. More urgent was a new passport, as most countries needed at least two empty pages.

 

1-3 April - Hong Kong

I revisited the South African embassy, to learn the procedure for my sister to collect my passport in South Africa, and courier it to me, as waiting four months wasn't an option. I then went to the Giant bicycle store to check if they could box the bike as I would be flying out of Hong Kong regardless of my destination. The only positive thing that day was that the umbrella was still at the coffee shop. When I picked up my laundry, I didn't check it as it wouldn't be surprising to find a few items missing. The rest of the day was spent trying to load a Garmin map of South Korea and Japan but to no avail. The only official Garmin map was their "world map," which one couldn't download but had to purchase on a disk or memory card that would be sent to you. Frustrated, I went to a pub, but they didn't have Wi-Fi, which was disappointing. Everything seemed to end in disaster, but I knew this unlucky and disastrous stage would pass.

It had been raining since my arrival in Hong Kong, and the weather wasn't perfect for sightseeing. Still, I considered staying in Hong Kong until the end of the month to give the planets time to align themselves. As I was still unsure about getting the passport, waiting until the end of the month sounded like a good idea, and it would significantly reduce the room rate in this expensive city. I also needed personal maintenance, such as dental work and reading glasses. A facial and pedicure wouldn't hurt either.

The next night, I spent time with Carlos and his wife Melody at a popular drinking spot in the famous Lan Kwai Fong Street. It was a lot of fun, and I didn't get back until the early hours of the morning.

 

4 April

Hong Kong is a hectic and competitive city. It’s said up to 2.8 million of the residents suffer from insomnia, a symptom of its hectic lifestyle, as the most common problem is work stress.

I joined the crowds and pushed and shoved my way along the narrow lanes, and when it got too much, I walked up the mountain to “The Peak”. The walk was pleasant, but as it was misty, there was no view, and I bused myself back to the city's hustle and bustle.

Back on level ground, I headed to the ferry pier and took the Star Ferry across the harbour to Kowloon to visit the night market and a few temples. On the return trip, I snapped a few pics of this famous city skyline.

 

5 April

April 5 was a public holiday called “Tomb-Sweeping Day” (Ching Ming or Qingming Festival). It’s believed that temperatures would rise from this date on, and rainfall would increase, indicating the time to start ploughing and sowing. The day was also for paying respect to the dead by cleaning the tombs and by offering flowers and food, two essential parts of the celebration. With cremation taking over from burying, most only offered flowers and food.

It appeared the younger generation paid their respects by shopping as the streets were jampacked. One could barely move due to the crowds. I headed to the dried food market where one should, at least theoretically, be able to cure all ailments. I don’t know what dried gecko is used for, but if you need it, you can find it in Hong Kong.

 

6 April

With time, I jumped on the MRT to visit the outlying areas and the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery. Due to the constant rain, the temple wasn’t as impressive as expected. What was far more amazing was the fact the Qingming festival was still in full swing.

The monastery was packed with people lighting candles and incense and placing flowers and food for their deceased relatives. I got caught up in the whole ritual. It wasn’t a morbid or serious affair; people were laughing, chatting and having a good time. I further noticed it wasn’t only the deceased’s favourite food that was provided but also, in some cases, a few beers.

On my return to the MRT, I spotted a trail and walked along the path without knowing where it would lead. It turned out to be a stunning walk up the mountain - lush and green without any sign of the city. I continued until the path ended at a Christian Institute with beautiful old buildings.

Keen to visit Po Lin Monastery, I made my way to Lantau. Once there, the bucketing rain, made for leaving the cable car ride for another day.

 

7 April

I visited the New Territories the following day and encountered a strange “tree-house”. Some say the Kam Tin Tree House was originally a study hall with a banyan tree beside it. Others say it was a temple, but what was sure was that, since the abandonment of the building, the banyan tree grew bigger and bigger and eventually wholly enveloped it.

Later, I was surprised to find an old walled village on this overpopulated island. The way of life in this walled village appeared to have remained very traditional. About 400 people live in Kat Hing Wai, and I understood that most still share the same surname.

In Hong Kong, horse racing appeared the main recreational passion among all levels of society. There seemed to be off-course betting branches on every corner. In the 1990s, all stables were moved to Sha Tin Racecourse, equipped with the world’s first parade ring, covered by a retractable roof and a Diamond Vision television screen that set a Guinness World Record. Hong Kong was said to have the highest racing revenue turnover in the world. Seeing the crowds studying racing papers, I could believe it.

 

8 April

Carlos introduced me to the local hiking group, and I went on the first of many hikes with them. At first, the weather was good, but once at the top, it started raining, and it continued raining on the return trip. Besides being wet, the walk was lovely. It's incredible to think it only takes 20 minutes to leave this megacity and find yourself in a lush and rural setting. Afterwards, Carlos and I went for a much-needed coffee, dripping water all over the coffee shop.

As the days passed, I became increasingly fond of Hong Kong. The city ran like a well-oiled machine, 24 hours a day. I loved the sounds of the town; the buses, the trams, the cars, the subways, the chatter at the sidewalk eateries, the distant music, the police sirens and car alarms. This constant humming made me feel at home and secure. The sounds relaxed me, and I drifted off to sleep, knowing the world was alive and well, without me caring for it.

 

9 April

As mentioned before, I stayed in Hong Kong to do a few things I’d neglected during the years. I, however, had so much fun I never got around to those tedious tasks. Finally, a hair appointment was made, and the day was spent at the hairdresser. I got the recommendation from Melody, and, interestingly enough, the salon's owner was a South African lady. With the hair done and dusted, I could at least tick one thing off the to-do list. Most people enjoy having their hair done, but I didn’t like anyone fiddling with it and was usually irritated when I got out of there.

 

10 April

The weather finally cleared, and good use of it was made by taking the bus to the top of Victoria Peak to see if one could get any pictures of the city. As always, it was a stunning bus ride, and the view from the top was equally impressive. Half of Hong Kong and all its visitors had the same idea.

 

11 April

I was off on my second hike early in the morning with the hiking group. Again, a beautiful walk along what was known as the Dragons’ back. We ended up at a scenic beach for lunch. That evening, I met with Mat (whom I met on the Tour d’Afrique ride) for a drink; it was good to see him, and I couldn’t believe he still looked the same after ten years. It seemed I was the only one ageing at a rapid rate.

 

12 April

The next day, I met Carlos and his daughter Natalie at Lantau Island, where we took the famous Ngong Ping cable car to see the Buddha. This 5.7-kilometre-long cable car stretched up the side of the mountain to the Po Tin Monastery. With views over Lantau Island and beyond, the ride is spectacular. It took climbing 268 steps to the 34-metre-high bronze Buddha which sat on a lotus leaf keeping a watchful eye over the island.

After visiting the Buddha, we bussed ourselves down the mountain, an equally spectacular ride. The small fishing village of Tai O, famous for its shrimp paste and its stilted houses made an interesting stop. A narrow footpath ran through the village, passing dried fish products, and I sadly spotted dried seahorse. With rumbling tummies, we made our way to a restaurant, and low and behold, would it not be South African, known as “The Stoep”. The location was fantastic - right on the beach, and the food was equally good. They served all the old favourites: bobotie, tomato bredie, and they even had a “braai”.

 

13 April

One of my highlights was joining Carlos and Melody on a family outing. We caught the ferry to Lamma Island, where a walking trail took us to a small fishing village for lunch. The walk led past stunning scenery and an old Kamikaze Cave, which, I believe, was constructed by the Japanese to house a flotilla of suicide motorboats.

Melody ordered (and paid for everything), and massive plates of food promptly arrived. The food (as usual) was delicious; although we did our best, we couldn’t finish it. After lunch, a ferry and bus ride took us to Stanley Market, where one could trundle around for hours. While having coffee, Melody returned with beautiful sandalwood fans for Natalie and me. I was spoiled rotten. As we strolled the market's narrow lanes, I as a gift admired a top but decided to give it a miss. On my return, I found Natalie had bought it for me. How generous of her. Too soon, the sun started setting, and it was time to return home.

 

14 April

I did nothing all day except sorting out photos and updating my diary. Afterwards, a tram ride took me to Kennedy Town, and I later returned for a foot massage. I had the whole treatment (including the tea - as it’s said to boost circulation and free the flow of the qi).

 

15 April

A tram took me downtown and to the local chop shop street. Instead of a signature, traditionally, people used hand-carved seals or stamps, typically in stone or jade, with their family name written in Chinese. These stamps were known as “chops”, and many say that, in a company, whoever holds the chop holds control.

Chop Alley was a little street lined with shops where you could get your personalised chop made at a very reasonable price. All shops had a beautiful array of choices and styles – round, square, irregular, and various sizes and colours.

The dried fish street was equally fascinating. To an outsider, the ingredients seemed an overwhelming random jumble. But I was told they were all carefully selected for their contributions to yin and yang, chosen to create balance in the body by traditional Chinese medicine. For instance, dried seahorses were used to remedy kidney and respiratory ailments and were said to help balance and clear up skin.

 

16 April - Macau

The following day was fun and exciting as I joined Melody, Carlos and Natalie for a daytrip to Macau. The ferry to Macau only took an hour, and what a fascinating little country. Macau was tiny and only measured 115 square kilometres. Being a former Portuguese colony, it was very different from Hong Kong. Firstly, the two official languages were Cantonese and Portuguese, and although Macau was equally populated, it seemed to have more low-rise areas. Well-known for its gambling halls, Vegas is the only place that eclipses Macau in gambling income. The big difference is that, beyond the gambling halls, one could find cobblestoned streets with a curious mix of Chinese temples and Portuguese buildings. The ruins of the Church of St. Paul, where only the façade remains, draw crowds of tourists, and it took a walk up the hill to get any half-decent picture.

Later, we dined at a Portuguese restaurant, after which we strolled around the massive casinos and stared in awe at the money spent.

 

17 April

A fun day was spent on a walkabout with the local photography group. The theme was visual density and great fun. I, once again, realised just how talented these people were - wow. Once done, we met for a beer, and by the time I went home, I was just in time to watch the light show at the waterfront. It was a beautiful, clear evening, and it was magical to be out watching the show.

 

18 April

Hong Kong was an extremely liveable city, and everything was convenient. I have to mention the Octopus card, which didn’t only get you on a bus, tram or ferry, but it could pay for your supermarket shopping, parking, fast food, sandwich and coffee shops, and a round of drinks in a pub. You just swiped and go. I loved it.

Up earlier than usual, I headed to Hong Kong’s New Territories. The further away from the city centre, the quieter the metro became. The plan was to locate the seldom-visited Ping Shan Heritage Trail. The walk was short but interesting; my favourite part was the moon gate at Chin Shu.

Miss Smarty-Pants took the camera but had no memory card. Oh well, at least it allowed me to experiment with the phone camera. Afterwards, I stopped off at the Wetlands Park, but being a holiday, the park was packed with families enjoying their day off. Someone said about 60% of the land in Hong Kong was countryside; with the land supply so tight and the need for accommodation so high, I wondered how long the country parks would remain.

 

19 April

I joined a lovely group on a short night hike that day. It took no more than 10 minutes, and we were out of the city and into the woods. Being a clear evening with great views, we chatted nonstop as we ambled along. Afterwards, the group again stopped at Slims for beer and snacks. What a great evening, and what a friendly group of people. Hong Kong is very cosmopolitan, and more than half the hikers were people from other countries residing in Hong Kong.

 

20 April

It felt like I had truckloads of karmic debt. The Universe had blessed me with so much love and random acts of kindness I didn’t think I could ever repay it. Today, I discovered someone had paid my Ace membership on the 365-project. How awesome was that?

 

21 April

My visit to the New Territories was to visit Carlos and Melody, and I was again impressed with the convenience of amenities in Hong Kong. Their complex was just as convenient, with everything one needed close by, from parks to shopping centres, movie houses and restaurants.

 

22 April

An online company was located which could arrange South African passports in as short as 15 days (instead of the embassy’s four months). After completing the forms, I decided against it due to the hefty price tag. The price, I should mention, included a courier service which collected and delivered the documents and passport.

The time arrived for the dreaded dentist appointment, which was never pleasant, but it had to be done. A follow-up appointment was made for the third, which was later than expected. I was getting itchy feet and was keen to get going.

 

23 April

A rainy morning made the perfect time to update travel logs and have a pedicure (long overdue, I should mention).

The best thing about Hong Kong was that it was probably one of the safest places in the world. There is no need for a “reclaim the night” movement here. I like that one could walk home late at night without worrying about personal safety.

Another reason I like Hong Kong is how cosmopolitan it is. Ethnic Chinese comprised the bulk of its population, but there is a sizeable presence of expatriates and people of different ethnicities. Many Indians could trace their roots in Hong Kong to when India was under British rule. Sikh soldiers participated in the flag-raising ceremony in 1841 when Hong Kong was declared British. It’s believed the earliest police officers in Hong Kong were Indians (Sikhs), and during my stay, the police force still had a few Indian members.

 

24 April

My early start was due to meeting hikers on Lantau Island for yet another hike. This time, the group followed the Olympic trail, which headed over the mountain to Discovery Bay, where lunch was had. With it being foggy, there was no view, but it was still an enjoyable walk past small rural settlements, something I didn’t expect in such a congested country.

 

25 April

The old streets of Hong Kong were lined with Chinese medicine shops that sold all sorts of exotic products, from herbal medicines to dried snake meat. In between the suppliers of the dried goods were TCM practitioners, some with a pot or two of prescribed herbs simmering in earthenware pots. I guessed they were good; otherwise, they wouldn’t still be around.

 

26 April

Walking the “Avenue of Stars”, I only recognised one person, the famous Bruce Lee. That evening, the hiking group again went on a short night hike. Carlos joined the walk, and we ended up at Slims for a beer and a shared plate of nachos.

 

27 April

I was sure getting my share of hiking as I set off on another hike. This time, we ended up at Stanley on the other side of the island. Some hikers left after the walk, but most stayed for lunch. Afterwards, a few beers were bought from the 7-Eleven, and we sat on the beach enjoying it.

 

28 April

First thing in the morning, I searched for a post office and mailed a letter to Amanda, permitting her to pick up the passport on my behalf. Gosh, I haven’t posted anything in years. It suddenly felt so old-fashioned. The stamps were, however, beautiful. After that little task was done, I continued to Kowloon and handed in my camera to be cleaned.

 

29 April

Just after midday, I joined Carlos for a walk along the old Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail. It was a fascinating walk through 5 of the ancient walled villages. Most of these villages are enclosed by brick walls and fitted with an entrance typically facing east to generate a good feng shui. We met another traveller and joined forces for the rest of the walk. We ended up in Kowloon, where Carlos treated us to coffee.

 

30 April

For once, I had nothing planned and visited the hairdresser for hair treatment. As usual, it took forever; at least they offered you a glass of wine while waiting. Afterwards, I searched for a new nose ring, as I’d been wearing the same one for decades.

 

1 May

I caught wind of another photography walk, and being May Day (or Worker’s Day), the theme was “People at work”. With a beautiful bunch of people, we explored the markets and streets and, like the previous time, met for beer and to share photos.

 

2 May

As almost no one in Hong Kong had a garden the city’s urban parks were very well used and clever landscaping meant it never felt crowded. I was getting itchy feet and couldn’t wait for the 5th to move on. There was only one more dental appointment on the 3rd, and it couldn’t come soon enough.

With only two blank pages left in my passport, it would require jumping through some hoops to avoid countries requiring visas, or at least until the new passport arrived. Therefore, I opted for South Korea.

 

3 May

Finally, the third arrived, and I cycled the short distance to the bike shop to have the bike boxed, after which I visited the dentist and only emerged a few hours later. After all was done and in the company of Carlos and Melody, we had one last meal before my departure.

 

4 May - Hong Kong

I booked a dive and was up early to get the MTR to the pier because I had a day free. Our dive boat was impressive and resembled a liveaboard, with cabins, a lounge, a kitchen and a deck area - all very fancy. The dive, however, was a bit of a disappointment as the visibility was poor, and one could hardly see anything at all—at least the food made up for the poor dive as it was excellent. I didn’t even bother doing a second dive, which should tell you something about the poor quality of the water.

 

5 May - Hong Kong – Seoul, South Korea - By plane

With my meagre belongings packed, I hailed a taxi to the airport. The baggage fee came as a shock, but there wasn’t anything one could do but pay and get it over and done with. The flight arrived in Seoul three hours later (but the time difference made it four hours). It was discovered I couldn’t draw money but could at least pay with the card—what a pain. I contacted the bank and hoped it would all be sorted out by morning. At least I was on the move again.