CYCLE TOURING THAILAND (18.2) - Bangkok to Phuket - Jan 2018

THAILAND (18.2)
Bangkok to Phuket
1427 Km – 23 Days
1 November – 28 November 2018

Photos

Map

 

 

 

1 November – Bangkok

Jan arrived in the afternoon, looking nonplussed following an exceptionally long flight from South Africa. As Jan needed no rest, enough time remained to walk around famous Khao San Road and do my favourite budget sunset cruise on the Chao Phraya River. The trip involved catching the late ferry to its final destination and boarding the last boat back. All at 30 THB. Luckily, the weather was good and the ride offered a spectacular sunset. The Chao Phraya River is a busy river with a constant flow of traffic and the river breeze made a welcome relief from the Bangkok heat. Our ferry passed barges carrying huge loads moving slowly upstream, and people commuting to and from work filled the boat.

On returning, we hurried to one of the backstreet restaurants to find a plate of green curry and a few Chang beers. 

 

2 November – Bangkok

Our plans of waking early never materialised, and thus mid-day by the time our exploring started. Walking the streets of old Bangkok is always a pleasure. Our meander took us past the old Phra Sumen Fort, one of only two remaining forts out of 14 built more than two centuries ago. Following the Burmese destruction of Ayutthaya in 1767, Bangkok was established as the new capital. Initially, Bangkok was a walled city with canals dug to act as a moat. However, the university campus, has an excellent location, right on the busy River Chao Phraya, and a walkabout revealed ruins of the old city wall.

The amulet market sported a beautiful and bizarre collection of amulets, albeit somewhat creepy. The market sold small talismans and is primarily frequented by collectors, monks and, taxi drivers. The majority of clientele appeared men looking through magnifying glasses at tiny amulets, mainly used for “good luck” or fertility. Several items appeared more ominous looking than innocent Buddha necklaces. In fact, a few seemed downright voodoo-ish!

Before popping into one of Bangkok’s most visited spots, Wat Pho temple, home to a massive reclining Buddha, it was necessary to remove our shoes. The statue measures 46 metres long and 15 metres tall and is covered in gold leaf, an impressive sight by anyone’s standards. The reclining Buddha represents the historical Buddha during his last illness, about to enter parinirvana. On leaving the vast hall, one could purchase a bowl of coins which were then dropped in the 108 bronze bowls lining the length of the wall. Dropping the coins into the bowls made a beautiful ringing sound, and I understood the money went towards helping the monks renovate and preserve Wat Pho. One hundred and eight is a significant number in Buddhism, referring to the 108 positive actions and symbols which helped lead Buddha to perfection.

From there, our path followed old canals past noodle soup eateries, and we couldn’t resist sitting down to a steaming bowl of their delicious soup. Finally, our little walking tour brought us to the Golden Mound, sporting a golden stupa on top, offering stunning city views.

We set out again at sunset and sat on the pavement at small tables on equally small chairs, enjoying a plate of Pad Thai. Pad Thai, Thailand’s most famous dish: is a sweet and spicy combination of noodles, eggs, and vegetables. All washed down with a large Chang Beer. On our way home, the Blues bar was an excellent place to drink a glass of chilled red wine on the pavement, albeit at an astronomical price.

 

3 November – Bangkok

One more day was spent in Bangkok, as there was no rush to go anywhere. Our test ride was a short but pleasant trip around the Royal residence and back. The search to find a new cap was on in all earnest as my old one had fallen apart. Finally, after taking the canal ferry to the city centre, I uncovered a suitable cap, though at a hefty price. As always, central Bangkok was intriguing. Amidst the chaotic public transport network and shopping malls sat the Erawan shrine, one of Bangkok’s most famous shrines. The smell of incense hung thick in the air as devotees stopped to pay their respects.

Then back to our guesthouse using the Sky train and the river ferry. Midway through our journey, our ferry, however, came to an abrupt halt. Lacking any command of the Thai language, the affair turned out a bit of a mystery. There was little choice but to follow the other commuters and abandon our ride, leaving us to make the rest of our journey on foot. Fortunately, a pleasant walk led along the river and through the flower market, laughing at our odd situation. We still couldn’t figure out why we were so promptly dumped by the side of the river. Our walk back took us past the second-hand false teeth salesman, and I was surprised to note the false teeth and bridges were slowly becoming less. (I’m not kidding you)

Back at our digs, beer was enjoyed watching the sunset from the roof terrace of the Riverline Guesthouse.

 

4-5 November – Bangkok – Ayutthaya – 80 km

Finally, the time came to start cycling, and what a delightful day it turned into. Being a Sunday morning, the traffic was light, allowing us an easy escape from hectic Bangkok. Our route followed the Prem Prachakon canal giving a little insight into the daily life of the Thai people. With that, it was weekend people were in a laidback mood, fishing or paying their respects at the temple. Others were preparing rice paddies or peddling their wares by motorbike.

We slowly made our way past modest houses on stilts, bright green rice fields and welcoming villagers. Men proudly showed off their fighting chickens, and narrow, ramshackle makeshift walkways led to homes on the opposite side of the canal.

Shortly before reaching Ayutthaya, a short detour went to the Bang Pa-In Palace, built on an island in the Chao Phraya River. The palace dates back to the 17^th century and revealed a rather amusing history, at least to me. The story goes: the illegitimate son of King Ekathotsarot, King Prasat Throng, constructed the palace. King Ekathotsarot was shipwrecked on the island and fathered a son by a woman who befriended him (it’s an age-old thing in Thailand). The son became king, maybe merely of the island!

Just ahead of Ayutthaya, our path ended abruptly at a river, but fortunately, a ferry took pedestrians across. Once in town, Baan Lotus Guesthouse, an old schoolhouse, made a comfortable stay. I was surprised and at the same time, immensely impressed the owner remembered me. She was of advanced age but still as sharp as a pin.

Our lack of lunch left us starving and sent us rushing to a nearby restaurant.

The next day was spent exploring Ayutthaya’s ruins. Once the capital of the Kingdom of Siam, Ayutthaya was founded around 1350. The city enjoyed an ideal location between China, India, and the Malay Archipelago and soon became Asia’s trading capital. By 1700 Ayutthaya had become the largest city globally with 1 million inhabitants. All this came to a swift end when the Burmese invaded Ayutthaya in 1767 and practically raised it to the ground. The ruins are today a UNESCO world heritage site.

The perfect weather made for a sunset boat ride on the river surrounding Ayutthaya, disembarking at a few temples and ending the trip at the night market.

 

6 November - Ayutthaya – Lopburi - 67 km

Following breakfast, Jan and I biked out of Ayutthaya and slowly made our way into the breeze towards Lopburi. A quick visit to the elephant kraal left me depressed. I thought it sad to see those magnificent animals chained and trained to do elephant rides. Baby elephants had nowhere to run or play, and their mothers looked agitated.

The path ran past bizarre temples and farmers working in the fields. Shortly before Lopburi, a sign pointed to a 300-year-old rubber tree as well as a boat museum making an interesting stop. A kind man offered to show us around. He explained the uses and names of the many wooden boats on display in broken English. Monks used some in their daily food collection and others for fishing. The king apparently used the near 300-year-old dragon boat look-alike powered by 12 rowers.

Then on to Lopburi, where Noom Guesthouse (where I usually stay) was fully booked. They pointed us to the Nett Hotel, a sister hotel around the corner. The rooms revealed permanently closed windows as the monkeys forced their way in, even with bars fitted to all the windows. Cute as they were, they could be quite a menace.

Once our exploring was done, food and beer were at the Noom Guesthouse restaurant. I was thoroughly impressed by the owner who not simply recognised me but mentioned that I departed without collecting the key deposit staying there nine months earlier (in the company of Janice and Chris). I couldn’t recall the occasion, but the money was duly deducted from our bill. How fantastic is that!

 

7 November - Lopburi – Suphan Bhuri - 100 km

“Good morning,” Jan called as he walked past my room earlier than usual. The monkeys causing havoc on the tin roof must’ve woken him early. Breakfast was sitting on the pavement outside the 7-Eleven, and then, dodging monkeys, we cycled out of Lopburi. A tailwind made pleasant and effortless riding along the smallest of rural roads.

Villagers were selling tiny dried fish, while others were drying rice or fishing in the canals. A great deal of rural life in Thailand revolves around rice, and farmers were preparing rice paddies, while others were busy planting or harvesting.

At midday, a delicious and sweet watermelon, from a roadside stall made a perfect lunch. Not a great deal further, a sign pointed to a Buffalo Village. It turned out a resort offering bungalows and an insight into rural Thai life.

Though a pleasant day of biking, the distance was slightly longer than anticipated. Maybe too much time was spent zigzagging through the countryside. Once an abode was located, we headed straight to the nearest restaurant.

 

8-9 November – Suphan Buri – Kanchanaburi – 115 km

In the morning, our path proceeded through farmlands in the direction of Kanchanaburi. Weaving our way through hamlets and past vast areas of wetlands, farmers, water buffalo, and cows with long ears all looked up in surprise as we biked past. It appeared a rarity seeing farangs on bicycles.

I was pleasantly surprised to see communities declaring war on aquatic weed, threatening to choke their waterways. Water hyacinth is considered one of the most dangerous invasive plant species worldwide. Innovative Thais were drying this weed and creating water hyacinth handicrafts, such as woven bags and baskets.

The road led past a string of ornate Buddhist temples, rice fields, and duck farms.

The Don Chedi Monument, dedicated to King Naresuan the Great’s victory over Burmese forces, made a surprise stop. It’s said in 1592, King Naresuan the Great defeated Phra Maha Upparacha, leader of the Burmese army, in a fierce royal duel on elephant back. I wondered how fierce a battle could be on elephant back?

Hundred and fifteen kilometres later we reached Kanchanaburi, made famous by the legendary bridge over the River Kwai. Kanchanaburi was a pleasant town on the banks of the Kwai river. Basic A-frame bungalows, right on the river, provided accommodation perfect for spending a day at leisure and visiting the bridge and graveyard.

 

10 November – Kanchanaburi – Samut Songkram – 117 km

An early start made easy cycling as country lanes followed the Mae Klong River the best part of the morning. Our narrow path twisted and turned through rural areas and past impressive-looking temples. Wat Tham Suea, situated on a small hill surrounded by bright green paddy fields, made a pretty picture. Shortcuts brought us face-to-face with surprised farmers and equally surprised kids. Even village dogs seemed too overwhelmed to give chase.

En route to Samut Songkram the Amphawa floating market made a fascinating detour. The market offered a large variety of food, and one could nibble on all offered. Finally, we returned to the bicycles and onto Samut Songkram where the night market was already in full swing. It’s impressive the amount one can eat when travelling by bike.

 

11 November - Samut Songkram – Hua Hin – 123 km

Samut Songkhram was home to the Maeklong Railway Market where the warren of stalls spilt over onto the railway line. As the train approached traders hastily packed up produce and canopies, allowing the train to pass. Once passed, everything went back into place in record time and trade continued as if nothing happened.

From our hotel, a ferry took pedestrians across the river, allowing easy access to country lanes and a scenic route close to the shores of the Gulf of Thailand. The scenic road led past large salt farms and now and again, information boards provided interesting titbits on our surroundings. I found it fascinating that roughly 50 different species of birds from as far afield as Alaska and Siberia flew to these salt pans to nest and breed. That’s one heck of a long way to fly. Although I kept an eye out for the spoon-billed sandpiper, I didn’t spot any.

The path was littered with temples and crab vendors, frequented by city folk on a relaxing day out. Fishing boats were lying three-deep in rivers, and the smell of dried fish hung heavily in the air as we cycled past large bamboo drying racks.

Once in Hua Hin, Bird Guesthouse revealed rooms on stilts over the water and it became our establishment of choice, and a great place to put your feet up, cold beer in hand.

 

12 November – Hua Hin – Sam Roi Yot Beach - 50 km

A cycle-path led out of Hua Hin, providing leisurely riding out of town. However, as cycle paths can be a tad predictable, we turned off and headed to the coast. Our route remained along the coast past Pranburi Beach. Following a coconut juice stop, the way veered in the direction of Sam Roy Yod Beach where budget rooms were hidden along a sandy lane.

 

13 November - Sam Roi Yot Beach - Prachuap Khiri Khan – 78 km

Early morning a stunning sunrise included fishermen and women going about their business that provided excellent photo opportunities. Next, a short and pleasant ride took us to Sam Roi Yot National Park famous for its cave temple. Next, a boat ride took us around the headland and after a steep walk up the mountain, we came upon the Phraya Nakon Cave. A hole in the cave ceiling allowed light to shine onto the temple, making great photo opportunities.

Then back down the mountain and onto the bikes from where a picturesque ride took us to Prachuap Khiri Khan. Bunking down at Maggie's Homestay was interesting for the people. A walk to the night market provided enough choices to satisfy even the pickiest eaters. Smiling at our fortune, we sat on the boardwalk railing eating our food, looking out over the ocean.

 

14 November - Prachuap Khiri Khan – Bang Saphan Beach – 101 km

The road to Bang Saphan ran along the coast, a relaxed and lovely ride. Scenes of beachside settlements and low-key beach resorts tucked away behind palm trees, and bougainvillaeas were the order of the day. Our path twisted and turned through coconut plantations until reaching our destination at Bang Saphan Beach. Supper at a beachside restaurant sealed another fabulous cycling day in Thailand.

 

15–16 November - Bang Saphan Beach – Wua Laen Beach – 100 km

A beautiful sunrise greeted us, something I never seem to tire of and after breakfast, Jan and I set out on one more stunning ride along the coast. The day slipped by as an amble took us south past idyllic beaches and through rubber tree plantations. The route continued across numerous rivers where colourful boats lay side by side, ready to go fishing when the tide came in. Seabeach Bungalows made perfect overnight accommodation, and soon we plunged into the warm waters of the Gulf of Thailand. A pleasant evening was spent enjoying supper in the company of guests from Seabeach Bungalows. The next day was spent on Wua Laen Beach, unwinding and doing the usual rest day chores.

 

17-18 November – Wua Laen Beach – Ranong – 144 km

We waved the Gulf of Thailand goodbye in the morning and headed over the hills to the Andaman coast. The initial plan was to overnight in Kraburi, 80 kilometres away. Still, Jan was on fire and aided by a tailwind, we sped right past Kraburi and onto Ranong. Jan's pace made the members of a private bicycle tour think we were e-bike assisted!

Once over the central cordillera, the mountain chain from Tibet through the Malay peninsula (only a few hills), a quick stop was made at the Kra Isthmus. The Kra Isthmus is the narrowest part of the Malay Peninsula in southern Thailand and is bordered to the west by the Andaman Sea and to the east by the Gulf of Thailand. Between the Kra River and the Bay of Sawi near Chumphon, the narrowest part was a measly 44 kilometres.

The Andaman coast was hillier but beautifully lush and green. The road passed waterfalls and densely wooded areas until reaching Ranong, where we bedded down at the well-priced Asia Hotel. Feeling lazy in the wake of our mega-long ride the previous day, Ranong made an excellent spot to have a rest day and do the regular rest day chores.

 

19 November - Ranong – Bang Ben Beach – 59 km

After a leisurely start and breakfast from a 7-Eleven, it was a pleasant surprise to land ourselves on a brand-new bike path leading out of Ranong. Our first stop was at the grassy hill tourist attraction, with a temple and steps to the top. So unusual is it in Thailand to see a grassy hill; it has become a tourist attraction.

Later we continued to Bang Ben Beach, a settlement 10 kilometres off the road. Again, Wasana Resort made perfect digs. A leisurely cycle took us to the fishing harbour and a nearby beach. We returned shortly before dark and the ideal time to settle, cold Chang in hand.

 

20 November - Bang Ben Beach - Khura Buri – 83 km

Departing sleepy Bang Ben Beach was after a hearty breakfast, following which we set off anew. A relaxed bike ride led past large and tropical-looking rivers sporting an abundance of birdlife. Roadside eateries provided more than enough to eat and drink, and monks and monkeys kept us entertained en route to Khura Buri. The overcast day made pleasant biking as the road proceeded south over the hills. In Khura Buri, bungalows at Tararin Resort consisted of rickety wooden structures on stilts right on the Nang Yon River. It started raining, and a break was made to the nearest restaurant, and we managed to get back without getting soaked.

 

21 November – Khura Buri – Happy House, Khao Lak – 98 km

The previous night’s rain made a lovely, fresh morning ride as our path took us over more hills in the direction of Khao Lak. Once again, passing a multitude of colourful temples and various interesting markets.

It started drizzling, but our plastic raincoats soon became too hot and uncomfortable, and better to get wet. Finally, the rain cleared around midday and turned into a casual ride into touristy Khao Lak. An abode in a garden setting close to the beach at 400 THB was considered a bargain in Khao Lak. The sunset was watched from the beach, enjoying our beer and watching fishermen cast their nets. A simple pavement restaurant provided an inexpensive but tasty supper.

 

22 November - Happy House, Khao Lak – Villa Viking, Patong Beach – 112 km

Sadly, this was our last day of riding to Phuket. The way to Patong Beach, Phuket, was hilly, no matter which route one picked. Still, it remained a fascinating ride, past villagers making cigarette paper from dried palm leaves and mobile carts selling sugarcane juice. The sugarcane helped churn our way over the last few steep hills to Patong Beach.

It isn’t easy to find budget accommodation in touristy Patong. Still, we located Villa Viking, a guesthouse offering large, clean air-con rooms at 600 THB.

By evening a short walk brought us to the famous or infamous “walking street”- a lively pedestrian street jam-packed with bars and dance clubs. We’d a few beers staring, slack-jawed, at what was playing out in front of us.

 

23 November – Phuket

A bus ride took us over a steep hill to Phuket town in search of a bike box, found at the second bike shop. Then box and all, we got back on the bus to Patong Beach.

 

24–26 November – Patong Beach, Phuket

Too soon, the time came for Jan to catch a taxi to the airport, ending our ride from Bangkok to Phuket.

Au revoir, my friend.

CYCLE TOURING MYANMAR (3) - LINDA 2018

 

THAILAND (17.1), MYANMAR (3), THAILAND (18)

1531 Km – 36 Days

12 September – 17 October 2018

MAP

Photos 

 

12 September – Bangkok

Linda landed in Bangkok, jet-lagged following a 27-hour long-haul flight from Fort Lauderdale and after much chatting over a beer, we turned in early.

 

13 September – Bangkok

There were loads to talk about since Linda left in January and following a few coffees, the two of us headed to the familiar Gecko Bar for breakfast. The canal ferry was a fun way to explore Bangkok, and hopping on one to pick up my laptop from the Pantip Plaza saved time and money. Bangkok offered a great deal to see, and the river ferry made easy exploring and provided effortless access to the Temple of Dawn. One last job remained, and we hailed a taxi to the Myanmar embassy to collect my visa. Due to the hectic Bangkok traffic, our cab made it to the Embassy minutes before it closed.

That evening strolling the backstreets of Banglamphu, we met Edward (Ted) Jones Whitehead, author of the book Down Below. At 95, he was remarkably energetic and still with a twinkle in the eye. Typical of a real old seadog, he soon hauled out his packet of fags while enjoying a beer. A truly remarkable man and an honour to meet him.

 

14 September – Bangkok

Breakfast was a bowl of noodle soup, and then off to the supermarket to stock up on bits and bobs needed. After collecting the laundry, Linda set out exploring, and I headed to China Town to hunt for a cup water heater. With its warren of stalls and labyrinthian alleyways, Chinatown offered the whole shebang from food to fluffy teddy bears and jewellery. It’s a vast and lively area where it took pushing and shoving my way through the mass of bodies. The trick was locating the right market. Eventually, after considerable directing from traders, I came upon the electrical appliance section. Unsure if I would ever find the market again, I bought two.

My bicycle was still at the bike shop, and a visit to the shop revealed a broken spoke, meaning it would only be ready the following day. Finally, a tight squeeze on the back of a motorbike taxi, took Linda and me to Khao San Road. The motorbike raced through the traffic, arriving at our destination just as it started raining.

 

15 September – Bangkok

Plans of catching a bus to the Myanmar border went by the wayside as my bike was only going to be ready at 11 am. After a leisurely start, an amble to the Gecko Bar provided breakfast. Linda trundled off to the famous Golden Mount and I returned to the guesthouse to wait for the delivery of my bicycle.

Once all our errands were done, we could explore more of old Bangkok. The old man selling the second-hand false teeth and bridges were still there. I was surprised to notice the teeth were steadily becoming less (I kid you not!). Equally fascinating was the amulet market where they sold more ominous items than only innocent Buddha necklaces. In fact, a few looked downright voodoo-ish!

By evening, enjoying our Chang beers on the roof terrace of our guesthouse, a massive storm rolled in, making a quick escape to a nearby restaurant. No sooner seated, the rain arrived with one almighty bang! It bucketed down as we sat watching the thunder and lightning. By the time our meal was finished, the storm had passed, and we sloshed through the puddles without as much as feeling a drop.

 

16 September – Bangkok to Mae Sot (by bus)

A short cycle led to the bus terminus. Being Sunday morning, traffic was light. Once at the bus station, the bus to Mae Sot came as a pleasant surprise and was more comfortable than expected. It nevertheless remained a 7-hour ride to Mae Sot, a scruffy border town with questionable border trade.

The First Hotel was a great choice as the place was quite remarkable with an imposing Burmese teak staircase and intricate ceiling carvings. Our minds boggled at what all could be done with such an impressive building.

Then, off to the famous, Khrua Canadian restaurant. Dave, the Canadian owner, had at the time of our visit been living in Thailand for the past 20 years and, together with his wife, ran a highly successful restaurant serving Western cuisine to farangs craving food from home. We returned to our accommodation with full bellies and prepared to cross the border into Myanmar the following morning.

 

MYANMAR (3)

 

17 September - Mae Sot, Thailand – Kawkareik, Myanmar – 55 km

A short cycle ride via the Friendship Bridge, spanning the Moei River, led to the Thai-Myanmar border. Once in Myawaddy, situated on the Myanmar side of the river, we found ourselves in a substantially more chaotic area. Amidst the dust, tuk-tuks, bicycle rickshaws and trucks, we obtained new SIM cards and changed a few dollars. Quite a feat, taking neither Linda nor I had any command of Burmese. The Myanmar Kyat had an exchange rate of 1,000 kyats to 1 USD, and it took purchasing a new wallet to store all the notes. Together with minivans, busses and what looked like an endless procession of motorbikes, two bewildered foreigners cycled out of Myawaddy.

The ride over the mountain was steep but came with spectacular views; mercifully, the weather was cloudy. Once over the high point, the road sped down to the small town of Kawkareik, where a room at the Smile World Guest House came at the exorbitant rate of $20! The place was a dump, but there was nothing better in town, and as Linda commented, the only one smiling was the owner.

A suanter into town revealed a beautiful Hindu temple and a lovely Buddhist one, but only a few eateries. Once seated at the only open restaurant, we were asked quizzically, “Myanmar?” and after indicating “Yes”, we waited in great anticipation to see what our order of “Myanmar” meant. Then, finally, the food arrived and consisted of rice and many small bowls filled with exotic dishes. Even trying our level best, such a substantial amount was served, it was impossible to finish what was served.

 

18 September – Kawakareik – Hpa-An – 92 km

On departing, priority was to find something to eat before heading to Hpa-An. Unfortunately, the roadside eateries didn’t reveal much besides the fruit that Linda bought. At the same time, I opted for a bag of fried snacks, consisting of samosas, puri, and deep-fried dough. I was sure it contained enough calories to see me through the next week!

To have said the road was slow going, bumpy, and potholed would’ve been an understatement. We bounced along past people working in rice fields and skilful fishermen casting nets. The congested road led us through small settlements where buses and trucks slowly manoeuvred along a narrow, potholed road. There was no other option than to follow suit and snake around the muddy holes as best we could.

Towards the end of the day, the route deteriorated further, becoming muddy or dusty as it made its way over the hills. Nonetheless, the scenery was sublime, and the roadside stalls sold an interesting array of dried and fried fish. The poor road conditions and humidity made it an exhausting ride. To our relief, Hpa-An came into view, where accommodation was substantially better than the previous night.

 

19 September – Hpa-An – Mawlamyine – 65 km

An early morning meander through the market revealed a scene that could’ve been in the days of Kipling. Men with tanned faces shaded by bamboo hats peddled sidecars in flip-flop feet. Others with heavy bags of rice on their backs shuffled to waiting trucks; boy monks collected food, and ladies with painted faces sold fruit and vegetables.

From Hpa-An, a short ride led to Mawlamyine, and the route significantly improved from the previous day. A short detour led to the surreal Kyauk Ka Lat Pagoda. The pagoda balanced precariously atop a limestone pinnacle at the centre of a manmade lake. From there our path led past ever-present, optimistic fishermen using all conceivable methods to catch something for the pot. The most successful were men snorkelling and spearing with a rudimentary spear made of bamboo, between the rice paddies. Finally, we pedalled past small rural hamlets where bare-bum kids played beside the highway and chickens pecked in the dirt.

At a river, the road abruptly came to an end. Luckily, a tiny wooden boat ferried us across from where a minor way led to Mawlamyine—formerly known as Moulmein, and famous for its pagoda-adorned Mawlamyine Ridge.

The Sandalwood Hotel was our abode of choice and, once offloaded, each wandered off in their own direction. I walked along the waterfront past old, crumbling colonial-era buildings and meandered through Mawlamyine’s chaotic market area. It could’ve been 1826! Finally, I strolled along to the Kyaik-Thanlan pagoda, erected in 875 A. D. and said to house a hair relic of the Buddha. Afterwards, I met up with Linda and walked to the Mahamuni Pagoda and the waterfront for a meal.

 

20 September - Mawlamyine

Being a fascinating and unusual place, the next day was spent in Mawlamyine. A stroll through the morning market indicated the importance of chewing paan and using traditional makeup. Even though traditional makeup is used in many ancient societies worldwide, it’s rarely used in everyday life, as in Myanmar. As in Myanmar, about every woman uses face paint. I thought it delightful that both men and women were still wearing the traditional sarong.

A tea house made an excellent place to watch the world go by. The clientele was primarily longyi-clad men with red, paan-stained teeth, sipping sweet milk tea, chatting with friends, or reading the paper. Then, off to see the enormous reclining Buddha about 20 kilometres south of Mawlamyine. Finally, the evening was spent walking along the promenade and drinking beer at a local joint—an excellent way to end the day.

 

21 September – Mawlamyine – Thaton – 70 km

Included in the room rate was breakfast, after which our path headed in the direction of Thaton. The route ran past numerous temples, and golden, stupa-adorned mountaintops. A short detour led to a nearby waterfall, once again, with a stupa at the top. After walking up the stairs and snapping a few pics of the plains below, we returned to the bikes for the ride to Thaton.

Situated on the Tenasserim plains, the route was flat and cycling enjoyable. Arrival in Thaton was early, and a basic guesthouse made good enough digs. Unfortunately, there wasn’t much to do in Thaton but walk to the Shwe Sar Yan Pagoda. It wasn’t the most spectacular Burmese temple but still a pleasant enough way to spend a few minutes. The amble to our establishment was past a roadside restaurant with tables on the pavement, which made a perfect place to watch the daily life of Thaton go by while having supper.

 

22 September – Thaton – Kyaikto – 70 km

A good road ran to Kyaikto, where the conveniently located Happy Guest House lured us in. Once the bikes were offloaded and following a shower and lunch, Linda and I headed to the Golden Rock. The famous Golden Rock of Myanmar, or “Kyaiktiyo Pagoda”, is situated atop a mountain. Reaching it first involved hailing a motorbike taxi to where large trucks ran up the mountain. The truck could take about 40 people and, once filled, it headed up the steep mountain pass. Due to the severity of the gradient, no other vehicles were allowed up the pass. Hanging on for dear life, the truck (what felt like) recklessly sped up the mountain. On top was a small community and no less than three hotels. The fog rolled in, and, in no time at all, one could hardly see anything at all. Still, we made our way to the rock, precariously balanced on top of a cliff. Then, a no less scary bus ride returned to the starting point.

 

23 September – Kyaikto – Bago –119 km

A lavish breakfast consisted of fried noodles and eggs, just the thing needed to see us through the day. Rural roads took us past tiny settlements where time appeared to have stood still. Our path slowly deteriorated, turning into a small footpath and, eventually, came to a complete halt. The only option was to return to the main road, making it a longer day than anticipated.

On reaching Bago, Linda located the Amara Gold Hotel, which was more than adequate. With its outdoor rooms, it made easy loading and offloading of bikes.

 

24 September – Bago – Yangon – 81 km

From Bago to Yangon, there was no option to take rural paths; all one could do was stick to the motorway heading into Yangon. As usual, the road was busy and, as one neared the city, the heavier the traffic became. Still, we miraculously made it to our destination unscathed.

Yangon is an old city founded at least a thousand years ago by the Mon people. According to legend, the city’s most famous landmark, the Shwedagon Pagoda, was founded during the time of the Buddha. Since then, the town has developed around the pagoda. Yangon is a fascinating city, where Buddhist monks walk the streets barefoot, men wear traditional longyi clothing, and bicycle rickshaws remain a popular form of transport. Graced with an ensemble of old colonial British rule buildings, coupled with its riverside location, made it a fascinating place to linger. The Sakura Tower, with its rooftop bar and restaurant, was a great place to share a drink and snap a few pics of the city. Supper was at the aptly named Vista Bar with a magnificent view of the impressive and beautifully lit Shwedagon Pagoda.

 

25 September – Yangon

The following day was spent in Yangon as there was a multitude of things to see and do.

 

26 September - Yangon – Okkan - 101 km

Again, there was no other option but to follow the main road, making getting out of Yangon a nightmare. The main road didn’t make exciting riding, but, eventually the road spat us out in the countryside, exactly where we wanted to be and amongst familiar rice fields. Our route continued past lone monks and fishermen. Men in lungis, under bamboo hats, peddled bicycles with sidecars, and women with painted faces sold wares from woven baskets balanced on their heads. Parents sat on their haunches outside schools waiting to collect their little ones, and, as always, the path led past numerous Buddhist temples, some more lavish than others. Rudimentary houses and small food stalls lined our route. Kids sporting umbrellas returned from school as we made our way past forgotten graveyards.

A light lunch was from a roadside stop. Shortly afterwards, Linda and I rolled into Okken, which sported comfortable lodging. The staff was incredibly accommodating, and I had the feeling that not many foreigners overnighted in Okkan.

 

27 September – Okkan – Gyobingauk - 93 km

Following breakfast, we biked on to Gyobingauk. The ride was an effortless one, mostly past rice paddies and temples. We meandered through rural areas and past teeny hamlets and a multituede of roadside vendors. There wasn’t much to see in Gyobingauk and overnighting was purely due to its location midway between Okkan and Pyay.

 

28 September – Gyobingauk – Pyay – 90 km

The way to Pyay was flat and in good condition, making effortless pedalling. The area was a rural one where people fished with rudimentary nets and paid their respects at temples. In Pyay we bedded down at the upmarket Hotel Irrawaddy right on the Irrawaddy River. A considerable discount provided a double room at $25, a bargain compared to other places.

 

29 September – Pyay

There was indeed something very romantic about Myanmar. I don’t know if it’s due to the vibrant colours, the hazy sunrises and sunsets, the ladies with painted faces, or the men with conical hats cycling bicycles with sidecars. Maybe it was a combination of all these beautiful images. Waking to the chanting of monks, drifting across from the immensely impressive Shwesandaw Paya, one couldn’t help but fall in love with Myanmar. Perched atop a central hill, Pyay’s Shwesandaw Paya is slightly taller than Yangon’s Shwedagon Paya and dates from 589 BC.

 

30 September – Pyay – Aunglan - 75 km

Departing Paya was amidst lady monks (nuns) collecting food, who seemed more jovial than their male counterparts. The road was rough but flat as we made our way past beautiful scenes of rice fields with blue skies and colourful temples. Halfway through the day, the vegetation changed and became similar to the Pampas in Argentina. Like there, the area was a cattle-farming one.

Men on oxcarts called cheerful greeted, as ladies in conical hats worked the fields. The road followed the Irrawaddy River and, from time to time, ran flush next to it and, at other times, headed inland. Finally, Aunglan signalled the end of the day’s ride.

 

1 October - Aunglan – Magway – 140 km

The stretch between Aunglan and Magway became a tiring and slow day of biking along a bumpy road with many steep little hills. The oppressing heat made exhausting riding. Nevertheless, we slowly churned our way up the hills, only crawling into Magway reasonably late.

 

2 October - Magway – Chauk – 120 km

With tired legs we cycled the 120 kilometres to Chauk. The road led slightly uphill for the first 90 kilometres and then a steady downhill took us to Chauk where a brand-new establishment at $30 was available. We couldn’t be happier.

 

3 October - Chauk – Bagan – 45 km

A short and effortless ride along a rural road ran to Bagan. The way into Bagan was along many ancient temples, and one couldn’t help but snap a few pics.

 

4–5 October - Bagan

It’s said Bagan was the capital of the first Myanmar Empire, it’s situated on the bank of the Ayeyarwady River and coveres an area of 42 sq. km. The town was built around 849 AD and became a city of great importance in the mid-9^th century under King Anawrahta, who unified Burma under Theravada Buddhism. Over the next 250 years, Bagan’s rulers and their wealthy subjects constructed over 10,000 religious monuments in the Bagan plains. In 1287, nearly all were destroyed by the Mongols during their wide-ranging conquests.

Today, over 2,200 temples and pagodas still survive, and I’m not exaggerating if I say there are temples everywhere. The people of Bagan live and work amongst these ruins; cattle graze, kids play in the dusty roads and people still worship at these old temples. Bagan is indeed a magical place, especially at sunrise and sunset.

Eventually, time came to move on, and a boat trip up the Irrawaddy River connected Bagan with Mandalay. The boat ride avoided a two-day bicycle ride along a rough road to Mandalay. The trip further allowed enjoying the mighty Irrawaddy River, the country’s backbone.

 

6 October - Mandalay

Making the tiny gold leaf sheets worshippers use at temples is an industry that has existed in Myanmar since ancient times. Walking the streets of Mandalay, I came upon an alley where a rhythmic pounding could be heard. On closer inspection, I found muscled gold beaters beating small packages with big hammers. I subsequently learned that refined pieces of gold are liquefied and turned into thin, flat gold sheets. Each piece was put between two layers of bamboo paper and pounded with 6-lb hammers for about 30 minutes. This resulted in a small, flat part of gold leaf mainly used as offerings at pagodas.

It felt like around every corner was an ancient monastery. These were beautiful wooden buildings dating to the 1800s. The Shwenandaw Monastery was one of the country’s most significant examples of traditional 19^th-century wooden monastery buildings. Carved from teak, the monastery was located outside the Mandalay Royal Palace and, I understood, was part of the palace. I read that when the capital moved to Mandalay, the building was dismantled, transported to Mandalay, and rebuilt as part of the new all-teak Royal Palace in 1857.

No less impressive was the adjacent Kuthodaw Pagoda, situated on a 5.2-hectare site. It contains the entire Theravāda Buddhist scripture. The scripture was carved on 729 marble stelae known as the ‘World’s Biggest Book’. The complex was created between 1860 and 1868 by Myanmar’s penultimate king, King Mindon (1853–1878). The Kuthodaw Pagoda is on UNESCO’s ‘Memory of the World register.

My next stop was at the equally impressive Why Shwe In Bin Monastery. The monastery was built in traditional Burmese fashion and was constructed in 1895 by Chinese merchants. During my visit, 35 monks lived there, and I heard them chanting as I roamed the grounds.

At the puppet factory, I was astounded by the workers’ skills and expertise. All the puppets and clothing were handmade. I could carry on and on about the fantastic work done there.

My last stop was at the U Bein Bridge, said the world’s longest teak footbridge. The bridge spanned Taungthaman Lake and seemed a popular spot. That said, I didn’t see any other Caucasians exploring the area. The bridge and the fishermen would make fantastic pictures at sunset, but I was, sadly, too early.

 

7 October – Mandalay – Thabyewa, Tha Phay Wa – 142 km

From Mandalay, a short 76 kilometres route led to Kume, our planned destination, which made a leisurely start, first stopping at the U Bein Bridge as Linda missed it the previous day. The ride was effortless, but the two guesthouses (contrary to what was confirmed the previous night) didn’t allow foreigners. There was nothing to do about the situation but continue to Meiktila, 75 kilometres further.

Being well-rested, biking was easy, albeit far. Then, dark clouds started forming, and following a loud crack of thunder, it started bucketing down. A mad scramble followed in packing away our electronics, after which we proceeded with rain beating down. Eventually, the storm dissipated, and a mild tailwind made pleasurable riding.

Seventeen kilometres from Meiktila, Linda suddenly pulled off the road, and I wondered what the problem was but then realised she spotted a guesthouse. The rooms were a mere $10 and came with air-con and a hot water shower; we couldn’t be happier.

 

8 October - Thabywea – Meiktila – 17 km + Inle Lake – 173 km (by bus)

During the evening, the route was discussed, and there seemed little of importance along the main road. Instead, taking a bus to Inle Lake and spending our last few days in Myanmar at the lake sounded far more exciting.

A short cycle took us to Meiktila bus station from where minivans ran to Nyaung Shwe, the gateway town to the lake area. Judging by the condition of our minivan, it was doubtful whether it would be capable of making it over the steep pass. But, miraculously, it made it to Nyaung Shwe with only stopping twice to do quick repair jobs.

The driver dropped us outside Inle Inn, with extremely comfortable accommodation at $18. Already late by then, only enough time remained to enjoy a quick meal at the Indian restaurant.

 

9-10 October – Inle Lake, Nyaung Shwe

I was up early as I arranged a boat to take me out on the lake to see the sunrise and maybe get a glimpse of the fishermen. These iconic fishermen of Inle Lake, known as the “Leg-Rowing fishermen” of Myanmar, steered their boats with one leg. They stood on one leg, wrapping their other leg around an oar, leaving one hand free to fish.

I was unlucky with the sunrise as the sky was completely overcast. Still, it remained fun trying to photograph the fishermen. Not an easy task in low light and on a moving boat.

 

11-12 October – Inle Lake

Our hanging around the lake wasn’t purely because of its laidback atmosphere but also to experience the Phaung Daw U Pagoda Festival.

The Phaung Daw U Pagoda Festival is held annually for 18 days. It’s one of the most famous festivals in Myanmar. Phaung Daw U Pagoda was best known in the Inle Lake region and housed five small, gilded images of Buddha. These images were covered in gold leaf to such an extent that their original forms could no longer be identified.

A large boat with a Golden Hintha (Hamsa) Bird creation was constructed and formed part of the festival. On this boat, the Buddha images toured around Inle Lake from village to village, taking 18 days to do so. The leg-rowers of Inle Lake, dressed in shiny colourful costumes, towed the decorated barge.

Myanmar is a multi-tribe country with about 135 ethnic tribes. I understood that the oldest of these tribes is the Padaung long-neck tribe. Surprisingly, they kept many unique customs and rituals, including wearing many necklaces to ensure longer necks. Legend has it a tribe leader dreamt a tiger would attack the community and break their necks when his daughter gave birth. He thus made all children wear necklaces. It’s said the practice dates to the 11th century. However, the long-neck look is not achieved because the neck is stretched. Instead, the weight of the weighty rings pushes the shoulders down, creating an illusion that the neck is longer. Although women still wear these necklaces, nearly all are decorative and removable.

 

13-14 October - Inle Lake – Mywaddy (Myanmar/Thailand border) by bus

So much fun was had at Inle Lake; we had to rush off to the border to get out before our visas expired. Tickets were arranged on the night bus, and rumoured a direct bus to the border.

The coach left shortly past 16h00, but it only made 30 kilometres before coming to a halt. All watched in anticipation when the toolbox came out. An hour later, the verdict was that the bus was “kaput”, and a new coach was ordered to transport us the rest of the way. The bus ride was a long ride without a toilet. If someone needed to use the bathroom, one could ask the bus driver to stop, and all would pile out and do the necessary. It thus turned out to be long past midday before reaching the border town of Myawaddy.

Linda and I packed the bicycles and biked to the Immigration Office, where one was stamped out. Waving Myanmar goodbye we headed to the Thai immigration to get our entry stamps and then returned to the First Hotel in Mae Sot. A meal and beer were precisely what we needed.

 

 

THAILAND (18)

 

15 October - Mae Sot – Bangkok by bus

We emerged leisurely and decided to spend the day in Mae Sot and take the night bus to Bangkok. This allowed us the entire day to relax and do whatever we wanted. I bought myself a new mobile phone as my old one had seen better days.

The ride to the bus stop was in the dark, a scary experience. The bus left at 20h00 and 4h30 when we reached Bangkok bus station. Albeit still pitch dark, we saddled up and headed into the city via a busy road, making it a hair-raising experience. Reasonable people might’ve had coffee and waited until daylight, but not us! We headed out in the dark and, mercifully, made it to our guesthouse in one piece.

 

16-17 October – Bangkok

I could not sleep, even though I hadn’t slept all night. Ultimately, I gave up, sauntered around the Khao San Road area, and took the bicycle to Bok-Bok Bike for a service. Linda packed her bags as her flight to the Philippines was at midday and with that came to an end, another enjoyable ride in Southeast Asia.

SOUTHEAST ASIA - Vietnam (4.1), Camboida (8), Thailand (17), Heading back to Bangkok after Caron left

 

VIETNAM (4.1), CAMBODIA (8) THAILAND (17)
1 September – 10 September 2018
6 Days – 702 km

MAP

PHOTOS

 

VIETNAM (4.1)

 

2 September – Saigon, Vietnam – Svay Rieng, Cambodia – 125 km

Departing Saigon was on a Sunday morning and I hoped it would be an easy escape from sprawling Saigon. However, no such thing happened, and I ducked and dived through the traffic, ignoring traffic signs like a true Vietnamese. Eventually, Saigon disappeared in my rear-view mirror, and I caught one last ferry ride across a river. Unfortunately, another rough path was on the opposite side that later spat me out at the Vietnam/Cambodia border. However, the crossing into Cambodia was uncomplicated. Surprisingly, I was charged only the $30 visa fee and no extra, “for their children”!

I pushed on as I’d approximately 900 km ahead of me and only about a week to do it. In Svay Rieng, a $5 room turned out one of the worst ever encountered, but you get what you pay for and one can’t expect much when paying $5. Phew! Time to hunt down food and beer.

 

CAMBODIA (8)

 

3 September - Svay Rieng – Phnom Penh – 131 km

Cycling wasn’t particularly effortless as a headwind hampered my efforts considerably. Rice paddies rolled past rather slowly as I stuck to the main road in the direction of Phnom Penh. That said, there are always exciting things to see, and on this day, people made and sold flattened rice. At the beginning of the rice harvest, some rice is set aside to be specially prepared and eaten during certain Khmer ceremonies. Flattened rice can be eaten year-round but is often eaten during special family gatherings.

The rice is roasted in a wok, then put in a wooden cylinder and pounded using a large pole. After the pounding, the hull is separated and discarded. Flattened rice can be eaten dry as a snack (quite lovely); most families, however, add coconut milk, sugar and banana.

Eventually, my path crossed the Mekong River and I was surprised at the vast amount of water flowing downstream.

My arrival in Phnom Penh was in peak hour traffic and in a drizzle, not the best conditions to bike into hectic Phnom Penh. Nevertheless, I made my way to Grand View Guesthouse, where I met up with my lovely friends, Matt, Dan, Chop, Phillipe and Teresa. Copious bottles of red wine were consumed and I later stumbled to my room. Phew.

I surfaced late sporting a (not surprising) headache and knew I wasn’t going anywhere that day. The rest of the crowd was equally slow to emerge but were ready for a few beers by evening.

 

5 September – Phnom Penh – Kampong Chhnang – 108 km

After breakfast, I pedalled out of Phnom Penh, trying my best to stay off the busy main road. In the process, I came upon the most unusual temples, Wat Sowann Thamareach was one of them. I pedalled past carts laden with pottery, sold door to door. Finally, I popped into the Vipassana Meditation Centre, where one can enrol in meditation courses. I think one can also overnight there, but I pushed on. I was slightly behind schedule and pointed my bicycle in Kampong Chhnang’s direction along the busy and narrow main road. Barely 12 km from my destination, dark clouds gathered and I wondered if it would be possible to escape the storm. I picked up an unexpected tailwind and powered by the wind, flew towards Chhnang. Amidst roaring thunder and streaks of lightning, I rolled into Kampong Chhnang just as raindrops started falling and made it to a guesthouse by the skin of my teeth.

 

6 September – Kampong Chhnang – Pursat 98 km

Feeling lethargic, the day dragged on endlessly. I amused myself checking out the stalls selling bugs (a typical snack in Cambodia) as well as, to my horror, skinned Leopard cats. These beautiful wild cats are regrettably hunted as food and, I’m sure, will soon be on the endangered list. I was more than happy to cycle into Pursat, sporting a good enough room to overnight. Stalls at the market sold heaps of fried crickets and I thought I’d post the recipe if anyone is inclined to give it a go. Here we go:

Preparation

Before cooking crickets, you should place the insects in a refrigerator until immobilised. The cold air slows a cricket’s metabolism and prevents your food from hopping away.

Fried

Pan-frying crickets is quick and easy. Heat olive oil in a pan. Place the insects in the hot oil and fry until brown and crispy. Drain the crickets, season to taste (a pinch of pepper and a dash of soy sauce usually does the trick) and enjoy. You can eat it as a snack or serve it on a bed of rice or noodles.

 

7 September – Pursat – Battambang – 110 km

What a dreadful day of cycling. Not only was I into a headwind, but the route was in a horrible condition. It became best to ride on the no-man’s-land next to the road as it had been patched once too many times, making a rough and bumpy ride. The lack of a shoulder and traffic added to the horrendous conditions. If not in such a hurry, I indeed would’ve taken a rural track. Once in Battambang, I opted for Hotel Royal, which offered clean budget rooms.

 

THAILAND (17)

 

8-11 September – Battambang, Cambodia – Aranyaprathet, Thailand - 130 km

I realised I was out of time and caught a train to Bangkok as I still needed to take the bike for a service and fit a new tire. Catching a train with a bicycle was surprisingly easy. Once at Bangkok station, I biked the short distance to my usual guesthouse, leaving three full days to do laundry and take the bicycle to the bike shop. However, my rushed departure from Aranyaprathet was mainly due to me needing a Myanmar visa, a three-day process as Linda and I planned on cycling this fascinating country.

 

12 September – Bangkok

Linda landed in Bangkok, jet-lagged following a 27-hour long haul flight from Fort Lauderdale and a considerable amount of chatting and beer later; we turned in.