166 THAILAND - A RIDE ALONG THE SOUTH COAST

166 THAILAND - A RIDE ALONG THE SOUTH COAST

20 February – 26 February 2023

358 Kilometres - 6 Days

PHOTOS 

20 February - Pattaya – Rayong – 78 km

It was “take two”! Early in the morning, my panniers were packed and ready, but I wasn’t heading to India as intended last November. Instead, I planned to do a short meander around Thailand as my friend Dawn arrived on the 27th. The main aim was to ensure the bike and equipment were in good condition and working order.

Although keen to get going, it was almost midday when I cycled out of Sodom and Gomorrah. In no time at all, I found myself on rural roads past cassava plantations with elephants grazing in the far distance, colourful temples, and Buddha statues. Then, up and over Big Buddha Mountain, still grinning from ear to ear.

By the time I pedalled into Rayong, I could feel I’d spent the best part of the day on the bike and called it a day at Richy Grand. Situated in the Chinese quarters, the guesthouse is well-located close to the night market. One should never go to the night market hungry!

 

21 February - Rayong – Pak Nam Krasae – 70 km

It was almost ten before I biked out of Rayong, and it was an immense pleasure to find myself upon a minor road past grazing cattle and through tiny settlements with brightly coloured homes—places where almost everything is peddled from motorbikes with sidecars. I’m sure Thailand is the only place in the world where a BBQ is allowed next to a petrol tank.

Soon my chosen route spat me out flush next to the coast on a road sporting a bike lane. The slight breeze was refreshing in the midday heat. At one of these communities, I met a Hungarian chap who has been living in Thailand for the past 40 years, and he invited me for a cold drink. How kind of him. Refreshed, I ambled over large rivers and past mangrove swamps until crossing the Prasae Sin Bridge. Here I spotted an authentic-looking village along the banks of the river. Turning in, only a few foreigners appeared to visit Pah Nam Krassae, as no English was spoken. I love places like that! However, it isn’t rocket science to explain that you’re looking for a place to sleep, and soon I was comfortably ensconced in a lovely room with air-con and hot water. At first, I thought finding food would be more problematic, but everyone understood “mangsawirat” (vegetarian) and “khaw phad” (fried rice). I had so much time I even rinsed my clothes!

 

22 February – Pak Nam Krasae – Chanthaburi – 75 km

Twenty kilometres after leaving, I stopped at a 7-Eleven for food, after which I continued along the coastal route. I love that a cycle lane ran almost the entire way to Chanthaburi. It was easy riding and a pleasure to be out on the bike. Once in Chanthaburi, I opted for the old quarters along the river, allowing plenty of time to stroll along the river, find food and relax.

 

23 February - Chanthaburi – Roadside guesthouse - 65 km

After umming and ahhing whether to stay in Chantaburi an additional day, I eventually saddled up and slowly started the return trip to Jomtien. The ride was pleasant, and the going easy. On spotting a three hundred THB room, I called it quits as finding inexpensive accommodation isn’t easy along the coast. My 40 THB meal of fried noodles was so much I couldn’t finish it.

 

24 February – Roadside Guesthouse – Rayong – 75 km

I took a different route, which was easy as there were hundreds of more minor roads. In fact, I don’t think I could find my original way even if I tried. The South Coast is relatively flat and, in places, resembles an estuary or delta. Thus, I crossed many rivers where fishing appeared as the main occupation. Back in Rayong, I cycled straight to Richy Grant as rooms were only 300THB and a place where one could wheel the bike right in, add a nearby night market, and it was a winner.

 

25 February - Rayong – Jomtien – 70 km

I zig-zagged through the countryside along farm roads, which always makes for an enjoyable day out. Little happened, as I was in the area only a few days prior. I thus didn’t stop and cycled back non-stop. It was somewhat of a stupid thing to do as I arrived starving and couldn’t wait to unlock the door and devour whatever was available.

Time to chuck the dirty laundry in the washing machine, shower and relax.

I was pleased with my little Tour d’South; although my arms are not 100%, they held up well (if I kept the distances short). Hopefully, my arms will be much stronger when I leave on the next trip around the end of April.

 

26 February Jomtien

Sorting out photos kept me busy the entire morning, and soon it was midday and time to collect the key to Dawn’s apartment. In the process, I had a beer with Karen and friends and was thus useless for the rest of the afternoon.

 

27 February – Jomtien

Seeing I had a day of rest the previous day, I donned the running shoes for an eight km jog along the beachfront. Returning dripping with perspiration, I first swept the floor and put the bedding in the washing machine before jumping in the pool for my daily kilometre swim. Funny how swimming always feels energising. Then back in front of the computer to sort out the last photos. Staving, I fried an egg, not something I often do as I think it’s too much trouble washing a pan. LOL. I must’ve been ravenous.

 

165 A DISASTROUS 2022

RECOVERY THAILAND
July 2022 – January 2023

 PHOTOS

 

9 July – Jomtien

Bouncing out of bed on a heavily overcast morning had nothing to do with my agility but rather the sing-along music playing. Music that made a person want to punch the air, exclaiming, “let’s go, baby”! Thus, Dire Straits was still blaring in my ears as I set off to the beach at a brisk pace. Unfortunately, the euphoria was short-lived, as I’d become rather unfit during the past six weeks. Having no running shoes, my old sandals had to do, and running in sandals isn’t all comfortable. Still, it was a pleasant walk, and the threatening rain never materialised. People were surprised to see me back in Jomtien, but so was I.  Returning, I picked up a bunch of bananas from my favourite fruit lady before heading into town to hunt for running shoes. Unfortunately, I scarcely made it to Beach Road before a storm broke. The weather came down with such force that it brought trees and electric poles down. The 7-eleven made an excellent place to hide from where a cab took me home—no point shopping in such weather.

 

10 July – Jomtien

Mundane tasks in a house or apartment take up much time. May it be sweeping, dusting, making a bed or doing dishes. These are actions not required when cycling. What a complete waste of time, as these jobs are never-ending. Thus, none of the above got done, and I lazily made coffee - left the mug on the coffee table and showered without picking up the towel. Instead, I listened to peaceful Reiki music said to increase positive energy. It was wonderfully relaxing, but still, no housework got done.

With my energy restored, I ventured to the mall, searching for new running/hiking shoes. Of course, it’s never an easy task finding such a combination. Still, I located a pair of trail running Hoka’s primarily designed for technical running and hoped they would be suitable for running.

 

11 July – Jomtien

By morning I keenly set out to test the new shoes. But, unfortunately, couldn’t say they were super comfortable as they were too narrow around the toe area. It’s so much easier to stick to shoes you know. Still, it wasn’t the end of the world, and I cut holes where the pressure points were.

Once home, it was back to finalising the last of the Malawian blog, as the longer I left it, the less I felt like doing it.

 

12 July – Jomtien

Early morning, I again set out for a jog. Being the rainy season, there weren’t many people on the beach. The umbrellas and chairs looked forlorn in the breeze, but still, stall owners were optimistic and put out tables, shrines and coconuts. The gentle breeze was a blessing as the weather remained hot and humid even though overcast.

Feeling surprisingly energetic, I pumped the bicycle tires and cautiously tested riding. Yes, it can be done, but it’s far from comfortable.

 

13 July

With nothing planned for the day, I cycled to the Lotus to test cycling and pick up a few things needed from the supermarket. Unfortunately, the hand remains uncomfortable, and I can’t see myself cycling any distance for a while.

Being Asalha Bucha day, a public holiday in Thailand, the streets and mall were quiet. This day, the first full moon of the eighth lunar month, commemorates the Buddha’s first sermon in Deer Park in Benares, India and the founding of the Buddhist sangha (monkhood) about 2,500 years ago. (The date in Thailand is thus 13 July 2565 BE)

In the sermon, known as ‘Setting the Wheel of Dhamma in Motion’, the Buddha first spelt out the Four Noble Truths and the Noble Eightfold Path.

 

July 2022 - February 2023

Eventually, my wrist healed, although it would never be 100%. But, at least I could cycle relatively easily using a wrist brace.

In the meantime, I had word from Dawn and was excited to learn she was planning on visiting Thailand. A fantastic month was spent eating, drinking, and doing other fun stuff. It was good to see my friend again.

After a month, Dawn returned to Australia, and I was excited to return to India. The Indian visa is an uncomplicated process, but the two wheel rims ordered took forever to arrive. Eventually, it took going to Bangkok myself, something that should’ve been done months ago, instead of waiting until the last minute. Finally, all was in place to leave for India. Sadly, while cycling back from the beach after taking a few sunset pictures, a scooter knocked me off the bicycle, resulting in two broken elbows.

To make a long story short, a week later, in early November 2022, I flew to South Africa. As can be imagined, I was mighty relieved to get off the chock-a-block plane. A visit to the hospital revealed what was already known. As in Thailand, doctors seemed more concerned about the fractured radial head, which I thought was my good arm. A CT scan was booked for 15 November (it’s a government hospital). Only after the scan will a decision be made. Both arms were again placed in a half cast (back slab), and there I thought I could sneak in a short jog. Unfortunately, it seems walking was my only option for a while.

All went smoothly, and I was mighty impressed with the medical service received. The dislocated elbow was realigned, and a metal plate and screws were fitted to hold the fractured olecranon together. The radial head couldn’t be repaired and was replaced with a metal piece. Finally, the ligaments around the elbow were repaired and reattached using a screw.

Phew, happy that’s behind me! I’m even more impressed that I’ve regained almost full motion and rotation barely six weeks after the operation. And to think all at US$30.00. Finally, my bags were packed, and I was ready to return to the tropics and my bike. Although I stayed with my sister, it remained less expensive in Thailand. Thanks, Amanda!

I could only hope 2023 would be kinder to me. Back in Thailand cycling remained, nonetheless, highly uncomfortable, but by changing the bike’s setup, it eventually became easier to ride the bike.