SINGAPORE (2) & MALAYSIA (3)
1,030 Kilometres – 36 Days
13
April – 19 April 2016
078
Singapore (2)
40
Kilometres – 6 Days
13
April – 19 April 2016
13
April 2016 – Cape Town, South Africa – Singapore (by plane)
Even
though I didn't manage to cross everything off my to-do list, it was finally
time to hit the road again. It wasn't until mid-April that I bid farewell to
beautiful Cape Town and embarked on a long flight to Singapore with layovers in
Dubai and Colombo, Sri Lanka.
My
ultimate destination was Bangkok, where I planned to meet up with my friend,
Tania, for a thrilling two-month cycling adventure across Asia. The goal was to
pedal our way through Southeast Asia from Bangkok, through Laos and Cambodia,
and back to Bangkok. I've always felt that Asia is the perfect destination for
beginner cycle tourists—with easy access to food and accommodation and
relatively gentle terrain.
The
flight wasn’t too bad as long-haul flights go, except I had a six-hour layover
in Colombo. Moreover, it was the Tamil New Year, a public holiday in Sri Lanka.
As a result, heaps of free fruit, tea, coconut milk and rice cakes were
offered. The rice cakes were lovely, especially since they were served with a
potent chilli paste.
14
April - Singapore
As
the wheels of the plane touched down on the tarmac in Singapore, I couldn't
help but feel a jolt of excitement at the thought of immersing myself in a
whole new world. Stepping into the bustling airport, I was surrounded by a
vibrant mix of cultures and nationalities, each adding its own unique flavour
to the atmosphere.
After
grabbing some local currency, I made a beeline for a SIM card and then hailed a
taxi to whisk me away to Tree in Lodge Hostel, a gem known for its warm welcome
to cyclists like me.
Upon
arrival, the hostel owner, SK, greeted me with a genuine smile, despite the
late hour. It turns out he's a dedicated cyclist who once pedalled all the way
from Finland to Singapore. He even went out of his way to help me lug my bike
and gear inside. His kindness instantly made me feel at home in this unfamiliar,
yet fascinating, land.
15
April
The
next morning, I emerged from my cosy hostel room well past midday. I set off
through the immaculate streets and orderly suburbs of Singapore, heading to
vibrant Chinatown.
The
place was a feast for the senses, with enticing aromas wafting from street food
stalls and an array of intriguing, dried goods on display - from seahorses to
flying lizards. Among the gleaming skyscrapers, the old Chinese shophouses
stood proudly, showcasing their vibrant colours and intricate designs.
After
indulging in a delightful feast of pau and dim sum, I returned to the hostel to
tackle the task of assembling my bike. As each piece came together, I couldn't
help but feel anticipation for the adventure ahead. Cycling north was top of
the agenda, and I couldn’t wait to get going.
16 April
I
had such an eventful day today! My roommate surprised me with news of a free
tour of the Parliament House, and I jumped at the chance. After hastily downing
a coffee, I set off for a day filled with history, stunning architecture, and mouth-watering
food. As I strolled along the Singapore River, I passed by intriguing art
displays, watched tourists savouring meals at riverside restaurants, and
observed busy Singaporeans hurrying to and from work.
Later,
I headed back to the hostel to grab my tripod for some night-time photography,
but my plans took an unexpected turn when two cyclists showed up, and we ended
up spending the evening chatting over a few beers. It turned into a lively and
social night without me even leaving the hostel!
17-18 April
I ended up staying there for two extra days, and it
was totally worth it! First off, I was on the hunt for a new laptop because
mine was on the fritz, but I ended up deciding against it.
Then, at sunset, I took a leisurely stroll to the
waterfront and was lucky enough to catch a glimpse of a spectacular laser show.
I attempted to capture the moment with some impromptu handheld shots, but I
couldn't help but wish I had brought my tripod along. It's always the way,
isn't it?
19 April - Singapore – Johor Bahru, Malaysia - 40
km
As the sun rose, I found myself on the road to the
Woodlands checkpoint, where I met up with SK for a refreshing cold drink.
Shortly after, I crossed the border into Malaysia at the bustling and efficient
Woodlands checkpoint. Malaysia was starting to feel like a second home to me.
Even though it was still early, I headed to Johor
Bahru to experience all this new country had to offer - finding an ATM, getting
a local SIM card, and soaking in the atmosphere.
Johor Bahru was undergoing rapid transformation,
evolving from a gritty border town into a vibrant, modern city. Sadly, the
charming old neighbourhoods were giving way to shiny new malls and shopping
centres, but I managed to find a room in an area where traditional eateries and
local culture still thrived. I enjoyed a delicious curry and rice while
observing toothless men engaged in board games, sipping tea or Tiger beer. The
flavours of the curry reminded me of why I loved Malaysian cuisine so much. It
was a perfect way to end the day.
079
Malaysia (3)
990
Kilometres – 30 Days
20
April – 19 May 2016
20
April – Johor Bahru – Pontian Kecil – 60 km
My
windowless room was made for sleeping late, and the time was thus past 9h00
before emerging. The humid weather made my clothes cling to my sweat-soaked
body long before I got on the bike.
Initially,
I planned to take a smaller coastal path, but to my surprise, I found it had
become a new highway, clearly indicating Malaysia's rapid development. This
left me with little other option but to continue along the highway until I
found a minor road. Despite this, the highway made for comfortable riding to
Pontian Kecil, where an inexpensive hotel beckoned me to stay.
After
checking in, a short stroll led me to a supermarket to buy food and other bits
and bobs. However, the scorching heat made me scurry back to the coolness of my
air-conditioned room. April is one of Malaysia's hottest months, and I could
feel its intensity even indoors.
21
April - Pontian Kecil – Batu Pahat – 70 km
It
must have been a scorching day as a kind lady on a motorbike pulled up beside
me and offered me an ice-cold "100-Plus" sports drink. Her gesture
was greatly appreciated, and I eagerly gulped it down. Feeling refreshed and
grateful, I continued, but the midday heat remained unforgiving.
Later,
a Malay man stopped and offered me a bottle of water. He also offered to give me
a ride to Batu Pahat. He must have thought I was a bit crazy for biking in the
heat, but he wished me well and continued.
The
Warmshowers host I contacted the previous night never responded, so I had to
stay at the Garden Hotel. Still, it was a good day, and the kindness of
strangers reminded me of the good in the world.
22-23
April - Batu Phat – Malacca – 100 km
My
digs included breakfast, which came as a surprise. Then, following a decent
plate of fried rice, the way led north to Malacca past plenty of stands to
quench my thirst. Despite the scorching weather, I soldiered on and eventually
arrived at bustling Malacca.
Malacca
was home to Ringo’s Foyer Guest House and Warmshower host, Howard. The place was
a cool hostel where cycle tourists could overnight on the roof terrace for free.
The
next morning, a jog along the river revealed an entirely new perspective of
Malacca. The sweltering weather made me appreciate my rooftop spot, as it offered
a slight breeze.
24
April - Malacca – Lukut - 75 km
The
high humidity left
me drenched before even getting underway. However, the day offered pleasant
coastal riding. A humble stand provided breakfast at a fraction of the price in
touristy Malacca. One could tell the day was unusually hot as even Muslim
ladies were swimming in their burkas and all.
Seeing
all those ladies in their wet burkas must’ve been a tad too much for this
conservative society, and no sooner had my path left the coast than I came
across a man masturbating by the roadside.
The
oppressive heat made me opt for a pricey homestay, if only for the powerful
air-con.
25
April - Lukut – Puchong – 80 km
My
early departure was due to the heat, and I headed to Peter's place in Puchong,
hoping to meet him and his family. The day turned out to be comfortable for
riding, with the route taking me partly through palm oil plantations and partly
along a busy road that passed the Malaysian Grand Prix circuit and airport.
Upon
reaching Peter's place, I was greeted with a cold beer and a warm pie - what a
lovely treat.
26
April - 1 May – Puchong
Peter
arranged for me to stay in an apartment as the flatlet he usually used for Warmshowers
guests was already occupied. Meanwhile, I made plans to fly to India to
retrieve the package I had sent from there three months earlier. Unfortunately,
the parcel had never left Kochi Post Office, so I had to go there myself. The
box contained all of my “valuable” items, such as my sleeping bag, tent, and stove,
so it was worth the effort to retrieve it.
Flight
prices varied daily, and I was able to find the best-priced option for five
days later, so I had a few days to relax. I spent most of my time lounging
about, going for a morning jog, and strolling to the shops to buy food.
2
May – Puchong, Malaysia – Kochi, India
Peter
kindly drove me to the airport at the ungodly hour of 3:00 a.m. as my flight
was scheduled to depart at 6:00 a.m. The flight was uneventful and lasted for 4
hours. We arrived in Kochi, India at 7:00 a.m.
I
stayed at Kevin's Homestay for the next few days as I searched for my parcel,
which was found intact at the post office. The reason the parcel was not
delivered was listed as two-fold. Firstly, an item contained
"batteries" which may have referred to the solar panel that couldn't
store energy. Secondly, an item contained "powder". Could it have
been the instant noodles? Since the parcel was returned for security reasons,
the postage was not refunded. Finally, with all my goodies safely in my
possession, I headed straight to my favourite steamed momo restaurant.
It
was May, and the oppressive heat made Kochi appear quite desolate. All the
tourists had left, and even the long-term tenants had departed in search of
cooler climates. When someone asked why I was still there, it became clear that
the tourist season had long been over. The fishing boats in the port seemed
abandoned, and the fishermen were lethargically watching flies crawl over their
meagre catch. The colourful clothes on display looked faded as they slowly
flapped in the breeze. Despite the heat and humidity, India remained my
favourite place to linger. Maybe it’s the madness, the contrast, the craziness
of everything.
While
observing the incredible amount of plastic pollution, I saw someone knitting
covers for nearby tree branches. I thought to myself, “This is indeed
incredible India.”
3-4
May - Kochi
I
had a free day in Kochi, which allowed me to explore the city and all it had to
offer. I also realised that carrying a large box was impractical, so I
purchased a suitcase instead.
Afterwards,
I went to the washing area, where laundry was still done by hand in large
concrete tubs. The clothing was then wrung out and hung on a twisted rope line.
The clothesline, made of coconut husk, isn’t just green; it's considered one of
the strongest. The line is twisted, and corners of the laundry are slipped into
the twists, making pegs unnecessary. How clever?
Finally,
all the items were neatly ironed with old-fashioned cast-iron irons heated over
coals. It's amazing how nothing ever gets lost in India; it's just one of the
country's countless mysteries. Again, the contrast in India left me speechless.
My
return flight to Malaysia departed at 23h30, leaving me with considerable time
to kill. At 80 rupees, the airport bus made more sense than a 1,200-rupee taxi
ride. But, being India, not everything went according to plan. Soon after departing,
all were refunded their 80 rupees and told the bus was kaput. Teaming up with
Bianca from Switzerland, we hailed a tuk-tuk, and off we went in our “air-con
Ferrari” in bumper-to-bumper traffic and made it just in time to catch our 23h30
flight. There’s never a dull moment in India.
5
May – Kochi – India - Puchong, Malaysia
AirAsia
is a budget airline, and I mean BUDGET. They didn’t even offer a glass of water;
the fact that the toilets were free was a surprise. Still, I wasn’t complaining
- it was simply fascinating. We landed smoothly, and the airport train took me to
Putrajaya Central, where Peter waited. Following a few winks, I slowly gathered
my stuff, ready to resume my quest. That evening, a spectacular storm broke
over Puchong, complete with dramatic lightning.
6
May - Puchong
The
previous night’s storm made for a fresh and perfect morning jog. I jogged past
municipal workers mowing lawns, leaving the smell of freshly cut grass in their
wake. Past the lake and the new MRT still under construction, past the lady
selling fried snacks, and I enjoyed the familiarity of what has become my
morning jog. My last day in Puchong was spent doing laundry and packing my
belongings, and I suddenly found I had a whole bunch of extra stuff.
7
May - Puchong - Kuala Selangor – 73 km
I
had breakfast in the company of Peter and Alice and knew I would miss them
terribly. Still, being on the bicycle and biking along rural paths was good. Towards
the end of the day, the Melawati Ria Hotel came into view. At the reception,
Saras, a teacher from Puchong, promptly invited me to join them on a firefly
trip. We boarded a tiny rowboat in bucketing rain and surprisingly had good
sightings of fireflies.
8
May - Kuala Selangor
With
a fair amount to see in Selangor, I donned my running shoes and headed out the
door, first toward the nearby small Nature Park. Unfortunately, the area wasn’t
for the fainthearted, mosquito-wise, and I had to step up the pace a tad and
make my way out of the park with swarms of eager mosquitoes in hot pursuit.
Once
outside the park, I dragged my then weary body up Bukit Malawati, a small hill
where once stood a fort, captured by the Dutch in 1867 and recaptured by the
Sultan in 1873. The only remains were part of a retaining wall, a few cannons,
a poisoned well, a 200-year-old Angsana tree, and a bedrock believed to have
been used for beheading traitors, but was highly likely utilised by the Sultan
as a lookout over his stronghold.
Although
the outing was more sightseeing than running, it remained fascinating.
9
May - Kuala Selangor - Melintang - 75 km
Early
morning, the tarmac was already baking in the sun. Still, I filled my water
bottles and searched for rural routes, of which there were plenty. These small secondary
paths through palm plantations were quiet, with practically no traffic, only
the occasional small kampung and playful monkeys darting across the way.
Interestingly,
these Selangor silvered langurs are born sporting orange fur, while the adults
are black. The fur doesn’t change colour until three to five months after
birth. The young are cared for by females communally and aren’t weaned until 18
months, even though the biological mother stops lactating after 12 months. How
fascinating?
Pantai
Redang was home to a wishing tree with branches entangled in red ribbons. One could
buy the ribbons, knotted both ends with coins, and throw them into the tree to
make a wish. I threw one lying on the ground and wondered if it would have the
same effect.
My
chosen path continued across countless rivers, crammed with fishing boats, past
ornate Hindu temples and small villages until reaching Melintang. Almost 16h00,
the usual food carts were already in full swing. The smells drifting across
from these stalls were enough to make me call it a day.
10
May - Melintang – Setiawan – 60 km
The
stretch between Melintang and Setiawan turned out to be uneventful, as it didn’t
offer any rural paths. Under normal circumstances, I wouldn’t have stopped in Setiawan
had it not been for me leaving my laptop charger behind. To my shock and
horror, I learned that no charger was available for my brand-new
laptop. How do they launch a new laptop without the necessary support? All my
ranting and raving didn’t make one iota of difference, and certainly wouldn’t
make one fall out of the sky.
Contacting
the Kuala Selangor hotel to inquire about the charger was a priority, but the
answer was negative. A subsequent phone call revealed that the charger was
indeed located, and a happy dance marked the expected happy ending. Unfortunately,
the saga continued as no direct bus ran to Kuala Selangor. The sole bus option
ran Setiawan—Kuala Lumpur—Klang—Kuala Selangor, a two-day overnight journey
returning the same way. Phew, it's best to sleep on it.
11
May - Setiawan
Packing
a small bag of necessary items, I made my way out the door, mentally prepared
for a long bus ride. Midway, I opted for a costly taxi ride. The fee was nearly
the laptop's price at 500 Malaysian ringgit (approximately $125). But, on the
positive side, I would be back the same day. There were probably better options,
but the deed was done. In the process, I became the proud owner of the costliest
laptop charger in Malaysia.
12
May - Setiawan – Taiping - 90 km
“How
old are you?” and “You must be very strong” are typical remarks in this part of
the world. My usual reply is that I’m not doing anything remarkable, seeing there
are women who give birth naturally. That is strong and brave! I’m simply pedalling
a bicycle—not pushing a baby out of my vagina! There is no comparison!
Taiping
made for a short cycling day, but I had no desire to push on to Panang, an
additional 80 kilometres down the drag. During the day, I met two Belgian
cyclists nearing the end of their year-long cycle journey from Belgium to
Singapore. They looked fit, lean, and tanned—but mostly happy. Though they were
looking forward to seeing their children and grandchildren, I was sure they would
miss their life on the road. We chatted for a while before continuing our separate
ways.
I
pulled into Taiping, thinking I might give the zoo at night one more try, this
time with a tripod in hand, but the weather came in and it started raining, and
nothing came of my nightly visit to the zoo.
13-17
May - Taiping – Penang - 98 km
It
was late morning before biking out of Taiping, as I didn’t fall asleep until
the early morning hours. Fortunately, the day was overcast, making riding to
Penang effortless. Not that
I wasn’t sweating buckets, but at least it wasn’t under the scorching sun.
Penang
was meant to be a quick in-and-out to arrange a Thailand visa. But being Friday
meant waiting until Monday to hand in the passport, and hopefully receiving it
the following morning, making it Wednesday before resuming my ride. In the
meantime, a budget room at the Love Lane Inn was as bare-bones as they came, providing
only a mattress on the floor. The price, however, reflected the lack of
amenities.
Soon,
the famous street food got underway, and I rushed to my favourite food stand
and gulped down a good dose of exotic eats. Then, after making a copy of the
passport (needed for the visa application), I returned to my mattress on the
floor.
In
the morning, I put on running shoes and set off to explore the area on foot. First,
I went to the water’s edge, then along the promenade, past the old fort and heaps
of old colonial buildings, some renovated and others still waiting in line.
One
could hardly call it “running” as I merely chugged along, grimacing, gasping
for air, arms flailing wildly. Taking all that effort, I should’ve moved at
quite a pace but scarcely moved at all. It’s extraordinary how others can make jogging
look so comfortable. Drenched in sweat, I returned to my mattress and found the
shower empty due to a broken pipe. The lack of amenities made me load up and move
around the corner to another and considerably better joint at the same price.
At least I had a bed, bedside table, writing table, two chairs, and a “shower
inside”, but the toilet was still outside. LOL.
Following
my morning run, I met up with Rickee Lee, a native of Penang and fellow cycle tourer.
We had breakfast together and jabbered on about all kinds of things. It’s incredible — the awesome people one meets when travelling
by bike.
The
following day, a bus took me to the Snake Temple along the town's outskirts.
The temple is quite old and was constructed in 1850 by a Buddhist monk.
Surprisingly, the snakes weren’t in cages but slithered at random. One had to
tread carefully, as pit vipers were everywhere. After a few pictures, I made a
hasty retreat.
Finally,
Tuesday arrived, and it was time to collect the passport containing a new two-month
Thailand visa. The reason for the two-month visa was that I planned to meet
Tania in Bangkok around mid-June for a three-month cycling trip in Asia.
18
May - Penang – Alor Setar - 103 km
I
just about had enough of the negativity in Southeast Asia. If one more person told
me I was too old to cycle, I thought I was going to fucking punch them in the
face. I look old, but Christ, I wasn’t 100
years old. All the “How old ARE you?” said with a lifting of the eyebrows was
getting on my droopy tits. I guessed I could’ve donned a burka. One would swear
the right to ride a bicycle was strictly reserved for the under 25s. Rant over.
I
didn’t get underway until 9h00, but the day offered pleasant biking and 30–33
°C weather. My chosen route followed the main road past a multitude of eateries
selling interesting snacks and drinks. The area further revealed huge,
high-volume buildings used for farming swiftlet nests. These edible nests are
made of solidified saliva and used in soups, an immensely popular, albeit
expensive, dish.
The
rainy season was fast approaching, and paddy fields were being prepared for
planting. This labour-intensive job made me appreciate every grain. I reached
Alor Setar (Alor Star) in good time and the Comfort Hotel was easily the most
affordable in town. There was no “bathroom inside” but the bicycle could be
inside, and the communal bathrooms were sparkling clean. The conveniently
located night market behind the hotel provided easy pickings.
19
May - Alor Setar, Malaysia – Hat Yai, Thailand - 106 km
There
wasn’t a single “How old ARE you?” on this day. I guessed my aura clearly
stated, “Don’t even think about it!”. The 60 kilometres to the border was
uneventful, and the crossing into Thailand was easy-peasy.
I
followed the usual SIM card and ATM routine before a 57-kilometre cycle ride
spat me out in Hat Yai. The area around the railway station came with a plethora
of inexpensive digs. Park Hotel turned out quite reasonable at 350 Thai baht (app.
$10) for a sizable room sporting wi-fi and a bathroom.
