SINGAPORE (2) & MALAYSIA (3)
1 030 Kilometres – 36 Days
13
April – 19 April 2016
78 SINGAPORE (2)
40 Kilometres – 6 Days
13 April – 19 April 2016
Although
I didn’t get to see everyone and didn’t do everything planned, it was time to
say goodbye to friends and family. I departed lovely Cape Town for the long
flight to Singapore via Dubai and Colombo, Sri Lanka.
The
flight wasn’t too bad as long-haul flights go, except it came with a 6-hour
layover in Colombo. Moreover, it happened to be Tamil New Year and a public
holiday in Sri Lanka. As a result, heaps of free fruit, tea, coconut milk and rice
cakes were offered. The rice cakes were lovely, especially since they were
served accompanied by a very potent chilli paste.
14
April - Singapore
The
next day, my flight touched down in Singapore, where I was instantly
transported into a foreign culture. I drew a few expensive Singapore dollars,
bought a SIM card, and hailed a taxi to the Tree in Lodge Hostel, a well-known
hostel amongst cycle tourers. SK, the hostel owner, cycled from Finland to
Singapore a few years
before and has ever since hosted cyclists from around the globe. I was
impressed that he waited until my ungodly hour of arrival and was ready to
assist in carrying my bicycle and panniers inside. Of course, this may not
sound like a big deal to anyone. Still, once on a plane that many hours, I
always disembark, half disorientated from a lack of sleep and exercise. SK’s
assistance was thus highly appreciated.
15
April
The
following day it was nearly midday before I surfaced and headed down the
well-organised Singaporean streets and suburbs to Chinatown. A place where I
found an authentic Chinatown. Albeit squeaky clean, it offered the usual
abundance of delicious food and strange dried items—from seahorses to flying
lizards. I loved how the old Chinese shophouses had been renovated and were
still in use, making a colourful picture against a backdrop of modern
skyscrapers. With a stomach full of pork pau and dim sum, I returned to the
hostel to assemble the bike and get things organised to cycle north, as it
wasn’t going to happen on its own.
16 April
I emerged to a roommate announcing a
free tour of the parliament house and quickly downed a cup of coffee and took
off. Once again, it became an enjoyable day of fascinating history,
jaw-dropping architecture, and delicious eats. An amble along the banks of the
Singapore River took me past fascinating pieces of art, tourists enjoying the
riverside restaurants, and past busy Singaporeans rushing to and from work.
Later, I returned to the hostel, to collect the tripod for a few night shots.
Things didn’t quite pan out that way, as I chatted to two cyclists who had just
arrived. We had a few beers, and it became a social evening.
17-18 April
I was warming to Singapore and stayed
two more days. Firstly, to look for a new laptop, as mine was slowly packing up
(in the end, I decided against it). Then, at sunset, I walked to the waterfront
and snapped a few bad hand-held shots of the laser show. Why is it that I never have the tripod when I
need it?
19 April - Singapore – Johor Bahru,
Malaysia - 40 km
My last day at the Tree in Lodge
Hostel arrived. My path led towards the Woodlands checkpoint, and I met SK for
a cold drink en route. Again, the Tree in Lodge Hostel staff was exceptionally
helpful and kind.
Shortly afterwards, I crossed the
border into Malaysia at the busiest (and most organised) border crossing I’ve
ever seen. Malaysia was starting to feel like home! Although relatively early,
I decided to stay in Johor Bahru as I’d never stayed there before. I found a
room and searched for the usual (an ATM and SIM card). Johor Bahru was fast
changing—from a seedy border town to a hip and modern city. Sadly, the lovely
old quarters seemed to be losing character as the old shophouses made way for
new malls and shopping centres.
Fortunately, I found a room in an
area sporting plenty of typical eateries, where toothless men sat smoking and
playing board games while sipping tea or Tiger beer. As the Malays know how to
cook a decent curry, I grabbed a curry and rice and settled in for the night.
79 Malaysia (3)990
Kilometres – 30 Days20
April – 19 May 2016
20
April – Johor Bahru – Pontian Kecil – 60 km
My
windowless room made sleeping late; the time was past 9h00 before emerging. The
humid weather made my clothes cling to my sweat-soaked body long
before getting on the bike. The idea was to take a smaller path along the coast.
Still, Malaysia developed so quickly that the intended small road turned into a
new highway. This left little other option but to follow the highway until a minor
route appeared. The new road made comfortable cycling to Pontian Kecil where an
inexpensive hotel lured me in. A short walk led to a supermarket to buy food
and other bits and bobs, after which I hastily returned to the coolness of my
air-conditioned room. Phew.
21
April - Pontian Kecil – Batu Pahat – 70 km
The
day must’ve been unusually hot, as a
lady by motorbike handed me an ice-cold “100-Plus” sports drink. This kind
gesture was highly appreciated, and the drink went down rather well. Later, a
Malay man stopped, gave me a bottle of water, and offered me a ride to Batu
Pahat. However, he must’ve considered me a madwoman, biking in the midday heat
and refusing a ride.
The
Warmshowers host contacted the previous night never responded, and the Garden
Hotel had to do that the night.
22-23
April - Batu Phat – Malacca – 100 km
My
digs included breakfast, which came as a surprise. Then, following a good plate
of fried rice, the way led north to Malacca past plenty of stands to quench my
thirst. Even though scorching I soldiered onwards. Bustling Malacca was home to
Ringo’s Foyer Guest House and Warmshower host, Howard. The place was a cool
hostel where cycle tourists could overnight on the roof terrace free of charge.
The
next morning, a jog along the river revealed a whole new perspective of Malacca.
The sweltering weather made me appreciate my rooftop spot, which offered a
slight breeze.
24
April - Malacca – Lukut - 75 km
The
high humidity left
me drenched before even getting underway. However, the day offered pleasant
coastal riding. A humble stand provided breakfast at a fraction of the price in
touristy Malacca. One could tell the day was unusually hot as even Muslim
ladies were swimming – burka and all.
Seeing
all those ladies in their wet burkas must’ve been a tad too much for this
conservative society. No sooner had I left the coast and I came across a man
masturbating by the roadside.
The
oppressing heat made me opt for a pricey homestay, but it was worth the price for
the powerful air-con.
25
April - Lukut – Puchong – 80 km
My
early departure was due to the heat, and I made my way to Peter’s place in
Puchong and looked forward to seeing Peter and his family. Luckily, the day offered
comfortable riding, partly through palm oil plantations and partly along a busy
road past the Malaysian Grand Prix circuit and airport. At Peter’s I was
welcomed with a cold beer and a warm pie. What luxury, as there’s nothing worse
than a warm beer and a cold pie.
26
April-1 May – Puchong
Peter
put me up in an apartment, what luxury. So I decided to fly to India to collect
the stuff I’d “posted” 3 months earlier. Seeing the parcel never left Kochi
Post Office; I’d no choice but to retrieve it myself. The box contained all my
“valuable” items, i.e. sleeping bag, tent, stove, etc., and thus worth my while
to collect. The flight prices varied daily, and as the best-priced one was in 5
days, I’d a few days to lounge about. So little was done apart from going for a
morning jog and walking to the shops to get foodstuff.
2
May – Puchong, Malaysia – Kochi, India
Peter
kindly drove me to the airport at the ungodly hour of 3h00 as my flight
departed at 6h00. The flight was an uneventful 4-hour one
and we arrived in Kochi, India at 7h00. Kevin’s Homestay once again became home
for the next few days, and I went in search of my parcel, found intact at the
post office. The reason for the non-sending was listed as two-fold. Firstly, an
item contained “batteries” (maybe referring to the solar panel, which couldn’t store
energy) and secondly, due to an item containing “powder”. Could it have been
the instant noodles? The parcel was returned due to security reasons, and I wasn’t
refunded the postage.
With
all my goodies safely in my possession, I rushed to my favourite steamed momo
restaurant.
Being
May, Kochi appeared slightly forlorn in the depressing heat. Virtually all
tourists had gone, and long-term tenants had already
departed in search of cooler climates elsewhere.
“What
are you still doing here?” someone asked, indicating the tourist season was
over. Even the fishing boats in port seemed sadly abandoned in the midday heat.
Fishermen, half lying, half sitting, were lethargically watching flies crawling
over their meagre catch. The usual colourful clothes on display looked faded as
they slowly flapped in the breeze. How vastly different in comparison to the
high season. Yet, even amid the heat and humidity, India remained my favourite
place to linger. Maybe it’s the madness, the contrast, the craziness of everything.
While looking at the incredible amount of plastic pollution, I noticed someone
knitted covers for the tree branches behind me. I thought, “This is indeed
incredible India”.
3-4
May - Kochi
A
free day in Kochi gave me time to discover all it offers despite the heat. In
the process, I bought a suitcase as lugging around a massive box proved
difficult.
Then,
off to the washing area, where laundry was done by hand in big concrete tubs,
wrung out and hung on a twisted rope line; no pegs were needed. Finally, all items
were neatly ironed in an old-fashioned way using oversized cast-iron irons
filled with coals.
How nothing gets lost is one of India’s countless mysteries.
Again,
the contrast in India left me speechless. At times things can be incredibly
green in this polluted country. The clothesline, made of coconut husk, isn’t simply
green, but considered one of the strongest. The line is twisted, and corners of
the laundry are slipped into the twists, making pegs unnecessary. How clever.
My
return flight to Malaysia departed at 23h30 and thus left a considerable amount
of time to kill. At 80 rupees the airport bus made more sense than a 1,200
rupees taxi ride. But being India, not all went according to plan. Soon after departing,
all were refunded their 80 rupees and told the bus was caput. So I teamed up
with Bianca, from Switzerland, and we hailed a tuk-tuk, and off we went in our “air-con
Ferrari” in bumper-to-bumper traffic, making it just in time to catch our 23h30
flight. There’s never a dull moment in India.
5
May – Kochi – India - Puchong, Malaysia
AirAsia
is a budget airline and I mean BUDGET. They didn’t even offer a glass of water;
the mere fact the toilets were free came as a surprise. Still, I wasn’t complaining;
it was simply fascinating. We landed smoothly, and the airport train took me to
Putrajaya Central, where Peter waited. Following a few winks, I slowly gathered
my stuff, ready to resume my quest. By evening a spectacular storm broke over
Puchong complete with dramatic lightning.
6
May - Puchong
The
previous night’s storm made a fresh and perfect morning jog, past municipal
workers mowing lawns, leaving the smell of freshly cut grass in their wake.
Past the lake and the new MRT still under construction, past the lady selling
fried snacks, and I enjoyed the familiarity of what has become my morning jog. My
last day in Puchong was spent doing laundry and packing my few belongings,
finding I suddenly had a whole bunch of extra stuff.
7
May - Puchong - Kuala Selangor – 73 km
I’d breakfast
in the company of Peter and Alice and knew I would miss them terribly. Still, it
was good to be on the bicycle and cycling along rural paths. Towards the end of
the day, the Melawati Ria Hotel came into view and offered tiny but cool rooms.
At the reception, I met Saras, a teacher from Puchong, who promptly invited me
to join them on a firefly trip. We boarded a tiny rowboat in bucketing rain and
surprisingly had real good sightings of fireflies.
8
May - Kuala Selangor
With
a fair amount to see in Selangor, I donned my running shoes and headed out the
door. First, in the direction of the nearby small Nature Park. Unfortunately, the
area wasn’t for the fainthearted, mosquito-wise, and I’d to step up the pace a tad
and made my way out the park with swarms of eager mosquitos in hot pursuit.
Once outside the park I dragged my, by then, weary body up Bukit Malawati, a
small hill where once stood a fort, captured by the Dutch in 1867 and
recaptured by the Sultan in 1873. The only remains were part of a retaining
wall, a few cannons, a poisoned well, a 200-year-old Angsana tree, and a
bedrock believed to be used for beheading traitors but highly likely utilised
by the Sultan as a lookout over his stronghold. Although the outing was more
sightseeing than running, it remained fascinating.
9
May - Kuala Selangor - Melintang - 75 km
Early
morning the tarmac was already baking in the sun, but I filled my water bottles
and went in search of rural routes, of which there were plenty. These small secondary
paths through palm plantations were quiet, with practically no traffic, only
the occasional small kampung and playful monkeys darting across the way. Interestingly,
these Selangor silvered langurs are
born sporting orange fur while the adults are black. The fur doesn’t change
colour until three to five months after birth. The young are cared for by
females communally and aren’t weaned until 18 months, even though the
biological mother stops lactating after 12 months. How fascinating.
Pantai
Redang was home to a wishing tree and sported branches entangled by red
ribbons. One could buy the ribbons, knotted both ends with coins, and throw them
into the tree to make a wish. I threw one lying on the ground and wondered if
it would have the same effect.
My
chosen path continued across countless rivers, crammed by fishing boats, past
ornate Hindu temples and small villages until Melintang. Almost 16h00, the
usual food carts were already in full swing. The smells drifting across from
these stalls was enough to make me call it a day.
10
May - Melintang – Setiawan – 60 km
The
stretch between Melintang and Setiawan turned out uneventful as it didn’t offer
any rural paths. Under normal circumstances, I wouldn’t have stopped in Setiawan
was it not for me leaving my laptop charger behind. To my shock and horror, I learned
there wasn’t a charger available for my brand
new laptop. How on earth do they launch a new laptop without providing the
necessary support? All my ranting and raving didn’t make one iota of difference
and certainly, wouldn’t make one fall out of the sky.
Contacting
the Kuala Selangor hotel to inquire about the charger was a priority, but the
answer was negative. A subsequent phone call revealed the charger was indeed located.
Happy dance. This was expected to be the happy ending. Unfortunately, the saga
continued as no direct bus ran to Kuala Selangor. The sole bus option ran:
Setiawan - Kuala Lumper – Klang – Kuala Selangor, a 2-day overnight journey, returning
the same way. Phew, best to sleep on it.
11
May - Setiawan
Packing
a small bag of necessary items, I made my way out the door, mentally prepared
for a long bus ride, but midway opted for a costly taxi ride. At 500 Malaysian
Ringgit (App. $125), the fee was nearly the laptop’s price. On the positive
side, I would be back the same day. This was likely not the best option, but
the deed was done. In the process, I became the proud owner of the costliest
laptop charger in Malaysia.
12
May - Setiawan – Taiping - 90 km
“How
old are you?” and “You must be very strong.” are two typical remarks in this
part of the world. My usual reply is I’m not doing anything remarkable, seeing women
give birth naturally. That is strong and brave! I’m simply pedalling a bicycle—not
pushing a baby out of my vagina! There is no comparison!
Taiping
made a short cycling day but I’d no desire to push on to Panang, an additional
80 kilometres down the drag. During the day, I met two Belgian cyclists nearing
the end of their year-long cycle journey from Belgium to Singapore. They looked
fit, lean, and tanned—but most of all, happy. Though they were looking forward
to seeing their children and grandchildren, I was sure they would miss their
life on the road. We chatted a while before continuing our separate ways.
I
pulled into Taiping, thinking I might give the zoo at night one more try, this
time, tripod in hand, but the weather came in and it started raining, and
nothing came of my nightly visit to the zoo.
13-17
May - Taiping – Penang - 98 km
It
was late morning before pedalling out of Taiping, as I didn’t fall asleep until
the early hours of the morning. Fortunately, the day was overcast, making effortless
riding to Penang. Not that
one wasn’t sweating buckets, but at least it wasn’t under the scorching sun.
Penang
was meant to be a quick in and out to arrange a Thailand visa. But, being Friday,
meant waiting until Monday to hand in the passport and hopefully receiving it
the following morning, making it Wednesday before resuming my ride. In the
meantime, a budget room at the Love Lane Inn was as bare-bones as they came, providing
only a mattress on the floor. The price, however, reflected the lack of
amenities.
Soon
the famous street food got underway, and I rushed to my favourite food stand
and gulped down a good dose of exotic eats. Then, after making a copy of the
passport (needed for the visa application), I returned to my mattress on the
floor.
In
the morning I donned running shoes and set off to discover the area on foot.
First to the water’s edge, and then along the promenade, past the old fort and
heaps of old colonial buildings, some renovated and others still waiting in
line.
One
could hardly call it “running” as I was merely chugging along grimacing,
gasping for air, arms flailing wildly. Taking all that effort, I should’ve
moved at quite a pace but scarcely moved at all. It’s extraordinary how others
can make jogging look so comfortable. Drenched in sweat, I returned to my
mattress, only to find no water in the shower due to a broken pipe. The lack of
amenities made me load up and move around the corner to another, and considerably
better joint at the same price. At least I’d a bed, bedside table, writing
table and two chairs, as well as a “shower inside” but toilet still outside.
Following
my morning run, I met up with Rickee Lee, a native of Penang and fellow cycle tourer.
We had breakfast together and jabbered on about all kinds of things. It’s amazing;
the awesome people one meets while cycling.
The
following day, a bus took me to the snake temple situated along the outskirts
of town. The temple is quite old and was constructed in 1850 by a Buddhist
monk. Surprisingly, the snakes weren’t in cages but slithered at random. One
had to tread carefully as these Pit Vipers were everywhere. After a few
pictures, I made a hasty retreat.
Finally,
Tuesday arrived, and time to collect the passport containing a new two-month Thailand
visa.
18
May - Penang – Alor Setar - 103 km
I
just about had enough of the negativity in Southeast Asia. If one more person told
me I was too old to cycle, I thought I was going to fucking punch them in the
face. I look old, but, Christ, I wasn’t 100
years old. All the “How old ARE you?” said with a lifting of the eyebrows was
getting on my droopy tits. I guessed I could’ve donned a burka. One would swear
the right to ride a bicycle was strictly reserved for the under 25s. Rant over.
I
didn’t get underway until 9h00, but the day offered pleasurable biking and the
weather a pleasant 30–33°C. My chosen route followed the main road past a
multitude of eateries selling interesting snacks and drinks. The area further revealed
huge high-volume buildings used for farming swiftlet nests. These edible nests
are made of solidified saliva and used in soups, an immensely popular, albeit
expensive, dish.
The
rainy season was fast approaching, and paddies fields were prepared for
planting. This labour-intensive job made me appreciate every grain. Alor Setar
(Alor Star) was reached in good time. The Comfort Hotel was easily the most affordable
in town. There was no “bathroom inside”, but the bicycle could be inside, and
the communal bathrooms were sparkling clean. The conveniently located night
market behind the hotel, provided easy pickings.
19
May - Alor Setar, Malaysia – Hat Yai, Thailand - 106 km
There
wasn’t a single “How old ARE you?” on this day. I guessed my aura clearly
stated, “don’t even think about it”. The 60 kilometres to the border was
uneventful, and the crossing into Thailand, was easy-peasy. Then followed the usual
SIM card/draw money thing, and a further 57 kilometres cycle ride spat me out
in Hat Yai. The area around the railway station came with a plethora of
inexpensive digs. Park Hotel turned out quite reasonable at 350 Thai Baht (app.
$10) for a sizable room sporting wi-fi and a bathroom.