174 Cycle Touring Thailand (23.1)

  

174 CYCLE TOURING THAILAND (23)

KOH KONG – PATTAYA
20 OCTOBER – 23 OCTOBER
4 DAYS – 355 KM

PHOTOS

MAP

  

20 October – Koh Kong – Trat – 100 km

My abode in Koh Kong was so comfortable that it made it hard to get moving in the morning. Every task seemed to drag on forever, and I even considered staying another day. However, since my bags were packed, I decided to cycle to the money exchange and convert my remaining Cambodian Riel to Thai Baht.

The distance to the Cambodia-Thailand border was only about 10 kilometres, but by the time I left the immigration office, it was already past 12 o’clock. I felt completely drained and lacked the energy for the 90-kilometre ride to Trat.

The route to Trat was quite hilly, and my legs were not cooperating. Still, I persevered, knowing the ride ahead was beautiful and the road well-maintained. I entertained the idea of settling for a roadside motel, but I daydreamed so much that I suddenly realised I was only 30 kilometres from Trat.

Fifteen kilometres from Trat, the sky darkened, and someone jokingly shouted, "Rain is coming!" Before I knew it, it was dark and raining, and I couldn't help but think I must be crazy to cycle in this weather. However, at that point, I had no choice but to keep going. It was a nerve-racking experience.

Eventually, I arrived in Trat and had to walk the bike through the darkness and rain, searching for a guesthouse. Finally, I spotted one and knocked on the closed door. Being incredibly kind, the owner let a drenched farang (me and my bicycle) into his guesthouse. The room was available for just $7, and I couldn't believe my luck.

 

21 October - Trat – Chantaburi – 70 km

Although this is usually a pleasant ride, I wasn't in the mood for cycling. Fortunately, the ride was short, and the weather was perfect, making biking a pleasant experience. I chose a delightful route through old hamlets and passed even older temples. I love these country lanes.

I arrived in Chanthaburi just as a few raindrops began to fall and checked into the nearest hotel. The Muangchan Hotel is hidden but offers ground-floor rooms at 350 THB. I would have easily paid more to avoid carrying my panniers up a few floors. Later, I strolled to the night market, which was always a fascinating affair, but it was impossible to find vegetarian food.

 

22 October – Chantaburi – Rayong - 115km

I didn't want to go back to Thailand and was not keen on the ride to Pattaya. Still, I thought it best to extend my handy non-immigrant visa. It's not that this part of Thailand isn't interesting; it's just that I've cycled it too many times, and it's never nice to return to where you started just a few months ago.

Anyway, I reluctantly made my way in that direction and, after 115 kilometres, arrived in Rayong, where I cycled straight to Rich Grant Guesthouse. It's easily the cheapest accommodation in town and comes with washing machines, which is always a bonus. I've been here so many times, the owner gave me a discount on the room. LOL.

 

23 October – Rayong – Jomtien, Pattaya – 70 km

Instead of taking my usual coastal route, I took the main road and cycled (almost) nonstop to Jomtien. I arrived hungry because I didn't stop for food. I finally found my key, though I had completely forgotten where I had put it.

Everything was exactly as I left it, except for a layer of dust, which didn't bother me too much. It was good to have a decent shower, coffee, and beer. While hanging out the laundry, I heard someone call my name. Leo and Sammy were on their way to the Corner Bar, so I went downstairs to join them for a cold one.

 

24 October – Jomtien

I did nothing productive all day except watch the robot vacuum, sweep, and mop, LOL. However, I did walk across the road to the day market to stock up on eggs and potatoes, as putting eggs in a steamer and a potato in the microwave is pretty straightforward. By late afternoon, I strolled to the beach, and it was a real privilege. I sat on the sand, scolding myself for feeling restless, when I should be grateful for the opportunity to have just completed a lovely circular route in Southeast Asia through three countries in eight leisurely weeks, covering 3,371 kilometres.

 

 

174 THAILAND (23.1)

JOMTIEN - MALAYSIA

4 DECEMBER - 31 DECEMBER 2024

1,300 KILOMETRES – 24 DAYS

 

4 December – Jomtien

Jomtien, with its serene beaches and vibrant local life, had been an excellent base, and the days passed in a blur. In the evenings, the streets were filled with the scent of street food and bustling markets. My days were spent enjoying the local culture and preparing my bike for the anticipated long ride ahead. Yet, as departure day approached, unexpected setbacks tested my patience and resolve. My bike had undergone a thorough service, complete with brand-new components, including a shiny chain and cogs, new tyres, a rear light, and a water bottle. However, when I reached for the pump this morning, I found it was completely non-functional.

My panniers, already packed, stood ready and waiting by the door. Argh! Frustrated, I set off to the local bike shop, but discovered they didn’t carry the pump I needed. They assured me they would check their warehouse and get back to me in a few days.

In the meantime, I decided it might be wiser to order a pump online, even though that meant I’d be twiddling my thumbs for a few more days. With all my belongings stowed away, I lived out of my panniers. Come hell or high water, I had set my sights on departing on the 9th. If the pump hadn't appeared by then, I would have to improvise and make do without it. Adventure awaits!

 

7 December – Jomtien – Chon Buri - 70km

I was mighty surprised when the bicycle pump arrived much earlier than anticipated. With a sense of urgency, I hurriedly repacked my panniers and tidied my room in preparation for the ride south. As always, I was excited as I set off from Jomtien.

As I pedalled away, I quickly found myself on rural roads that wound through lush farmlands, leading me the short distance to the sun-soaked beach of Bang Saen in Chon Buri. Although the ride was pleasant, I couldn't help but notice just how swiftly one can lose fitness. Although the ride was easy and brought the familiar feeling of freedom, I was relieved to arrive in Chon Buri, where the beach was alive with sunbathers.

To my dismay, I noticed that room prices had skyrocketed, nearly doubling due to the influx of weekend tourists. After some searching, I finally found a modest $12 room, which I considered perfectly satisfactory. It was a convenient, ground-floor motel-style accommodation, allowing me to easily wheel my bike into the room. The only downside was the mattress which was long past its expiry date! I guess one gets what you pay for.

 

8 December - Chon Buri – Samut Prakan – 86 km

It dawned windy and overcast, casting a grey hue over the landscape that made me hesitant to get going. Reluctantly, I finally set off from Chon Buri at around 10 a.m. The first leg of my ride was a delightful stretch of roughly 20 kilometres, featuring a designated cycle lane along a road built over the ocean.

However, the tranquillity soon faded as I reached a busy highway. Thankfully, it was Sunday, so the roads were less congested than usual, but the experience was still nerve-racking, especially with construction work disrupting the flow.

Rounding the northern tip of the Gulf of Thailand is never a pleasant ride, as sprawling Bangkok stretches all the way down the mighty Chao Praya River to where it drains into the Gulf. Upon reaching Samut Prakan and the banks of the Chao Praya River, I decided I had pedalled enough for the day. My search for budget-friendly accommodation proved fruitless, forcing me to choose a more expensive option.

Hunger gnawed at my stomach, and I nearly robbed a fellow guest returning from the market. I wasted no time, dropping my bags and rushing to where he pointed. The market offered an overwhelming assortment of food. I returned to my room laden with an impressive bounty, far more than one person could reasonably devour.

 

9 December – Samut Prakan – Samut Songkhram – 86 km

In a desperate bid to avoid the notorious traffic of Rama 2 road, I opted for a more pleasant route, taking a ferry across the Chao Phraya River. The crossing was only made possible with the help of fellow passengers, who kindly lent a hand in loading and unloading the bicycle from the ferry.

Once on the other side, I zig-zagged and backtracked through a maze of small paths, leading me on a detour to a dolphin-watching area, where I hoped to catch a glimpse of these elusive creatures. Although the dolphins remained hidden from view, the area was alive, with abundant birdlife flitting through the air.

Eventually, I landed on the service road alongside the busy highway. Thankfully, it was just a brief foray before a tranquil rural road promised a more scenic route toward Samut Songkhram.

This region of Thailand is like a vast floodplain, a landscape dominated by flat terrain where countless canals snake through the area, flanked by salt farms and fishing-related industries. Here, flooding is not just a seasonal occurrence; it’s a rhythm of life, shaping the community and its culture. Fascinating.

The following day was spent relaxing. I had a bit of a runny nose and thought it best to hang low and do the necessary housekeeping.

 

11 December – Samut Songkhram – Cha-Am – 100 km

I woke up energetic. I am sure it was due to all the eating I had the previous day, as Samut Songkhram is well known for its night food market. I crossed the river by ferry and immediately found myself in a rural area that leads underneath the busy Rama 2 freeway to join the scenic route heading south along Thailand's Gulf. I made a short detour through the mangrove area to see the swimming monkeys, but they were not there.

For once, I met another lady cyclist who was also heading south. She hails from the UK and comes to Thailand to escape the harsh winter in the north. We chatted for a while and then continued at our own pace.

With a stiff breeze from behind, I flew right past Phetchaburi, where I thought I might overnight to explore the nearby caves. The going was good, the weather pleasant, and I continued south past vast salt farms. These wetlands attract large numbers of birds during their migration south, and I kept a keen eye out for the tiny spoon-billed sandpiper, but didn’t see many birds that day.

Most of the way was on a cycle path or a dedicated cycle lane, and I pedalled into Cha-Am at around 3.30 p.m. I didn’t wait for the night market, as I was starving, and grabbed a bit to eat from one of the street vendors.

 

12 December – Cha-Am – Sam Phraya Beach Camping – 90 km

The route along this coast is one of my favourite rides, as it is truly stunning. Add a stiff tailwind, and I found myself grinning from ear to ear.

I zipped through Hua Hin without stopping and followed the cycle path along the highway for a short while before veering off to the beautiful Pranburi and then heading south to Sam Roi Yot, before entering Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. This scenic park is famous for its numerous beautiful caves and beaches, but I headed straight to the Sam Phraya Beach camp site. Initially, it was a bit windy, but fortunately, it soon subsided. The ants drove me to a nearby shop about three kilometres away to get something to deter the “wee buggers”, as my dear friend Esther Burns will say.

Walking along the deserted beach made me realise how lucky I was to be there. I had everything I needed: food, water, a little tent, a comfortable sleeping mat, and clean ablutions, and I was happy as the proverbial pig.

I thought I was the only guest there, but the restaurant remained open, and they served me a bowl of delicious fried rice.

 

13 December - Sam Phraya Beach Camping – Prachuap Kiri Khan - 53 km

I woke to a slight drizzle and hurriedly packed up before everything became sopping wet. Once I was on my way, the drizzle grew heavier, which I did not enjoy. I stepped on the pedals and gunned it to Prachuap, which was fortunately only 50 kilometres away, where I came to a screeching halt at Maggie's Homestay.

Staying at Maggie's is always an enjoyable experience, and this time was no exception. UK John has been there for over a year, and USA Mike, who relocated from Indonesia, seems to have settled in quite nicely. Australian surfer Darren lives on the island of Sumatra, Indonesia, but was visiting Thailand for a few months.

I paid for two nights, and as Maggie’s sported washing machines, I did my laundry and spent the rest of the evening chatting to the other guests.

I did absolutely zilch the next day except for socialising with the other guests. I haven’t talked that much in months, as I hardly ever speak to anyone. Hahaha.

 

15 December – Prachuap – Bang Saphan -102km

I nearly stayed an extra day at Maggie's, as almost everyone extended their stay there. However, with the wind still from the northeast, I decided it was best to take advantage of the favourable conditions and hit the road.

As I left Prachuap, the sea was more turbulent than it had been the previous day, with waves crashing over the promenade and onto the road, and I opted for an alternative route.

With the wind at my back, I sped down the coast. The road veered back toward the highway to navigate a small national park, which I didn’t mind since the highway was quiet with a wide shoulder. A local cyclist caught up, and after a brief chat, I let him pass, but he waited. I turned into the national park to give him space, then returned to find him still waiting. Uncomfortable with his close following, I encouraged him to go ahead. Once past the park’s boundary, I veered off the highway towards the coast, and still he followed. I stopped to let him go first, but his glances back made me rethink my decision, so I returned to the highway, only turning off closer to Bang Krut.

In Bang Krut, I tried to find a spot out of the wind to drink some water and chatted with a friendly guy from Canada. We had a pleasant conversation before going our separate ways. I often encounter wonderful people during my travels.

I continued cycling until I reached Bang Saphan, where I considered camping in the national park. However, a tree had fallen due to the wind, landing on some campers and causing the campsite to close. As a result, I had to settle for a room in town.

 

16 December – Bang Saphan – Wua Laen Beach – 110 km

When I left Bang Saphan, it was already late, but with a strong tailwind at my back, I continued my journey further south. This stretch of the coast is a joy to cycle, and while I mainly followed the Royal Coastal Road, I often detoured to explore charming fishing villages and scenic viewpoints. I primarily travelled along rural lanes that wound through coconut, palm oil, and rubber tree plantations.

As the wind picked up, I was relieved not to be heading north. Instead, it helped propel me across large rivers, past colourful fishing villages, and the ever-present Buddha statues. My destination was Chumphon, but I couldn't resist stopping at the beautiful Wua Laen Beach, where I found a simple beach hut at 350 THB. In fact, I was so comfortable that I decided to stay for two days to sort out a few urgent matters.

Ultimately, I realised it was better to relocate to Chumphon town, which had all the necessary facilities. Once in Chumphon, I found an affordable hotel and booked a room for a few days. Soon, I signed all the required documents and just had to wait for the dentist to create a new retainer. Initially, the plan was to move and then take a bus back to pick up the retainer, but that seemed like an unnecessary hassle, so I decided to stay and additional three days.

There really isn’t much to do in Chumphon except visit the substantial night market to see what is on offer. A motorbike taxi took me to the Lotus shopping mall on the outskirts of town, and I learned to say “law-tis” instead of lotus! LOL. The poor motorbike taxi driver had no idea where I wanted to go until I figured I was pronouncing it wrong.

 

23 December - Chumphon – Fisherman Bangalow – 84 km

At last, I left Chumphon, even though I had received no word about the retainer I had ordered from the dentist. I was peed off, to say the least. Fortunately, it was another fantastic day on the road as I slowly made my way further south.

The tailwind prevailed, making cycling easy as I meandered through the countryside on quiet one-lane roads, taking me past more banana, coconut, and oil palm plantations. At times, I landed next to the ocean, and at other times, my chosen route took me inland. What a pleasure.

When I spotted Fisherman's Bungalows, I pulled in as I couldn't resist the basic accommodation on the beach. My humble bungalow was awfully small and felt somewhat rickety and I hoped it would survive the night. The beach was littered with ocean debris, blown onshore by the stormy north-easterly winds. Later, I cycled to a nearby shop, grabbed a few bits to nibble on, and then sat on my small veranda watching the angry waves.

 

24-25 December – Fisherman Bungalows – Surat Thani – 123 km

It was already late when I pedalled out of my overnight accommodation, as it took a while to get my bus rolling in such a confined space. LOL. One more superb day was spent cycling this delightful coastal area. Cycle touring doesn’t get much better than this, and I was grateful for the opportunity to live this life.

With all my stopping, it was well past four when I rolled into Surit Tani, where I headed straight to the well-known My Place Hotel, as they have budget rooms. Unfortunately, the cheaper options were all taken, and I settled for a more expensive room as I didn’t feel like schlepping my bags up to the fourth floor.

I spent a relaxing day in Surat Thani, a typical Thai city that is modern yet traditional. Strolling the street and gazing at the various stores was a pleasure. Some sold fish, others temple paraphernalia, or rice, and all happily coexisted on the same street.

 

26 December – Surat Thani – Tha Sala – 107 km

At first, I considered following the coast, but the weather was a bit blustery, so I decided to head slightly inland and take the main road instead. Although this option was easier, I often find the main road to be quite boring. Fortunately, I had a tailwind, which made the ride much easier.

The most enjoyable moment of the day was meeting a young cyclist from Russia named Valentine. He had been travelling for a few months and was on his way to Kuala Lumpur to catch a flight to India. The main road had a wide shoulder, allowing us to chat while cycling. Eventually, we parted ways, and shortly after that, it started to rain. Just then, I reached Tha Sala, and since there was a $10 room available along the main road, I decided to call it a day.

 

27 December – Tha Sala – Nikon Si Thammarat – 27 km

I left my humble abode on a wet and grey morning. The ride was comfortable despite the weather, even though it occasionally poured heavily. I remembered Valentine, the Russian gentleman I met the day before, mentioning that the forecast predicted heavy rain. Once I arrived in Si Thammarat, I decided it best to find a place to wait out the weather. Perhaps I overreacted a bit, as it rained intermittently throughout the day, but it wasn't as bad as predicted.

There isn’t much to do in Si Thammarat, but I walked to explore the remaining sections of the old city wall. It led me past the City Pillar Shrine, which is entirely white, and eventually through Sanam Na Muang Park.

Nakhon Si Thammarat is also famous for its traditional art of handmade shadow puppets. Finally, I learned that the black statue with the red finger I often see along the road represents one of the characters in this performance. Additionally, I discovered that traditional healing practices and folk medicine are still very much alive in Thailand. Rain or shine, I planned to move on the next day.

 

28 December - Nikon Si Thammarat – Cheewaporn Resort – 93 km

As soon as I left, I found myself on my usual route through coconut palm plantations. Despite the intermittent rain, I enjoyed biking this stretch. My chosen path eventually led me to the coast, where I encountered impressive wind turbines. I’m continually amazed by the size of these massive structures. Although the wind wasn’t as favourable as on previous days, the ride remained easy and the weather cleared around midday.

Around four o'clock, however, the weather turned again, prompting me to call it a day. I arrived at the Cheewaport Resort, located along a sandy track next to the ocean. The prices were higher than expected, but I was wet and didn’t feel like biking any further. The little bungalow I rented was well-equipped and spacious. When the lady offered to send someone to the shop to get me snacks and beer, I decided to go ahead despite the cost. I have such a rubber arm! LOL!

 

29 December - Cheewaporn Resort – Songkhla – 84 km

Early in the morning, the wind was already strong, stirring the sea into even rougher waves than the day before. At first, I considered following the coastal road, but the crosswind was too unpleasant, so I decided to take the main road, which seemed more sheltered. I didn't stop often—only to grab a quick drink of water—before continuing my ride. It wasn't that I was in a hurry; I just wanted to avoid the uncomfortable weather. How spoiled I've become!

Still, I found a surprising amount of history, here in the “Deep South”, and I cycled past several old temples. As I neared Songkhla, I discovered the remains of an ancient city and fortresses, and a bit further on, I found a Dutch cemetery. It appears that the Dutch were also present under the VOC's flag, searching for valuables. Shortly afterwards, I found a ferry operating across the opening of Songkhla Lake, saving me 10 to 15 kilometres of cycling along the main road.

Once in Songkhla town, an affordable-looking hotel lured me in and I decided not to look for a cheaper room since it was located in the vibrant old town I wanted to explore. As I wandered around, I noticed large groups of Thai tourists with cameras in hand. I felt like I was the only foreigner in the crowd. There's much to see in the area as Songkhla has a history dating back to the 10th century when it was a significant settlement that traded with places as far away as Quanzhou, China.

I spent the day in Songkhla, mostly wandering around the old city. Later, I took a motorbike taxi to the supermarket at the mall, which is always a nerve-wracking experience, LOL. What I found most interesting was how busy the mall was. I thought I was the only foreigner there, which attracted quite a few stares.

Although Thailand celebrates the Gregorian New Year enthusiastically, it is less significant than the Thai or Chinese New Year celebrations. I also realised that I was within spitting distance of Malaysia and, as a result, there is a strong Malay culture prevalent in this region. Although, in general, the Malaysians also celebrate the Islamic New Year, the Gregorian New Year is a big event, and the supermarket was filled with hijab-wearing women pushing trolleys filled to the brim. A smile crossed my face as I imagined the aroma wafting from Malay kitchens in Cape Town, South Africa. I eagerly anticipated my arrival in Malaysia to enjoy an authentic Malay samosa.

 

31 December – Songkhla – Padang Besar – 85 km

As I cycled out of Songkhla, the sun was already high in the sky. The ride was surprisingly pleasant, starting in the old town and continuing along the shores of Lake Songkla. I passed the large city of Hat Yai and made my way to the border town of Padang Besar via secondary roads.

I planned to cycle to the border and find a place to stay for the night, then cross into Malaysia in the morning. However, whenever I have a fixed idea of where I will stay or what route I will take, I can almost guarantee that I will do the exact opposite. Hahaha.

Today was no different and before I knew it, I found myself at the immigration office, where I hurriedly purchased travel insurance for the next two months, as it cannot be bought while already in a country. The border crossing was quite confusing! Eventually, I was stamped out of Thailand and into Malaysia.

Buying a new SIM card and withdrawing Malaysian currency took some time. The oil-rich Malaysian ringgit is somewhat stronger than the Thai baht, equating to approximately 4.3 to 4.5 ringgit per USD, while the Thai baht is around 30 to 35 THB per dollar. As a result, things are pricier in Malaysia.

I decided it was best to stay in the village since it was already past four o’clock. As always, I was taken aback by the significant difference that just a few kilometres can make. Buddhist temples were replaced with mosques, and ladies were dressed far more conservatively. Although there was an abundance of food, vegetarian options were nowhere to be found, and not a single shop sold beer. Eventually, I found a shop that sold beer from under the counter. LOL, I guess it won't be a very festive New Year! Happy 2025!