CYCLE TOURING THAILAND (10)

 

Thailand (10)

1779 Km – 58 Days

20 June – 18 August 2017

MAP

PHOTOS

 June 20 – Poi Pet, Cambodia – Sa Kaeo, Thailand – 85 km

A short cycle led from the dusty border town of Poi Pet to the Cambodia/Thai immigration. The border was chaotic, with cross-border traders pushing and pulling produce-laden carts. Foot passengers formed long queues and motorised traffic weaved randomly, switching from right-hand drive to left-hand drive. But, on a bicycle, I could zig-zag through the horrendous traffic to where I was waved to the front of the queue. Yay!

Once across the border, I sought out a cash machine, but this time didn’t use my South African bank account, but my Thai bank card and drew money paid in by the tenant. It made me giggle.

The day turned out exactly what I loved about cycle touring as I’d no plan or destination. A limestone pinnacle loomed ahead, and it seemed an excellent place to explore as it was bound to have a temple and a cave. My early arrival gave ample time to climb the steep staircase to a gap in the mountain which offered scenic views of the countryside. I even received a blessing from a monk midway up.

The area would’ve made perfect camping, wasn’t it for the many monkeys who were sure to trash the tent.

The nearby town of Sa Kaeo looked a viable option, and I meandered in that direction. Sa Kaeo didn’t offer a considerable amount in the line of attractions; still, it was the provincial capital. Like every provincial capital, it sported a Big C supermarket and KFC. Regrettably, finding accommodation was more difficult than anticipated as nearly all signs were in Thai script.

The plan was to make my way in the direction of Jomtien, as the tenant renting the condo purchased was moving out. Although sorry the tenant was relocating, I was super keen to see what I’d bought.

 

21 June – Sa Kaeo – Ban Plaeng Yao - 110 km

The following day’s ride became relatively uneventful (it’s not often that happens). My decision to follow the main road made it uninteresting riding. Still, I came upon two Chinese cyclists having a nap at a bus shelter. We tried to make conversation, but I’d no command of Mandarin. The reason I seldom encountered other cyclists was primarily due to me barely ever using main roads. Afterwards, my path veered onto a smaller track, which featured a few temples and opportunities to sample unusual fruit. Sometimes the dullest looking fruit turns out the tastiest.

The route continued until Ban Plaeng Yao, which sported The Rich Inn. I wouldn’t have guessed the place even had a name, let alone accommodation. It turned out a charming room, providing air-con, a fridge and even hot water in the shower. Unfortunately, the Rich Inn was off the road, without any nearby facilities and thus nothing to do but laundry.

 

22 June - Ban Plaeng Yao – Jomtien – 123 km

Luck was on my side, and I located rural paths leading through tiny settlements. Older men guarded their single cow while others sat under shady trees fanning themselves with hats watching women weed rice paddies. A wave of gratitude washed over me, cycling past the ever-present ornate temples and ladies selling simple snacks. To have the luxury of no destination and time on my hands was one of my greatest privileges.

I bought a flower garland from a vendor at 10 Thai baht. “It’s for good luck,” they said. So, garland dangling from my handlebar bag, I pushed on past humble homes sporting ornate birdcages on front porches.

My path zig-zagged through the countryside, eventually ending up in Pattaya, where I headed straight to the Property Agent’s office to collect the key. I felt genuine excitement unlocking the first home I’d in 10 years. A place where one could leave stuff and even hang clothes. Even though it needed improvement, all could be done later. It was never meant to be a real home but an emergency bunker when push came to shove. The plan was to fix the necessary ahead of my departure to China on July 22. In the meantime, the plan was to play in my tiny bunker.

 

June 23 – July 31 - Jomtien

I scrubbed and cleaned. No one will believe me if I say the tenant moved out, taking merely her handbag and clothes. She must’ve been a hoarder of sorts, as I threw out no less than seven large garbage bags of stuff. It needs mentioning it was a tiny room. Primarily empty containers, including six empty lip balm holders, several empty lipstick holders, numerous plastic bags containing old receipts, piles of empty shoeboxes and more. Phew, what demanding work housework is. I was completely pooped and more tired than following a day of riding.

The next day my back was off, and my legs ached in places I didn’t know I’d muscles. I bought new bedding and towels. I’m not the cleanest of persons, but at least it’s my dirt.

A visit to Tesco Lotus provided new cutlery and crockery, no more than two of a kind apart from the wine glasses, as one should never only have two wine glasses. However, small things amuse small minds!

I’d an absolute ball. I even sported a file holding personal stuff. But, unfortunately, there wasn’t a significant amount in the file, merely the legal documents from the apartment and my Thai Bank account.

What fun to go to the shop and buy coffee and not care if in a glass container. Purchasing cleaning materials wasn’t something I’ve done in the past ten years. The biggest novelty of all was going to the bookstore. I usually read books online but holding a paper book in my hand and laying on the bed reading till my eyes fell shut was pure pleasure.

I sat on the balcony, grinning from ear to ear, noisily swirling the ice in my wine glass. I’ve already overspent my budget, and if I wanted to continue travelling, I needed to pull in the reins and lay low a while. Still, I bought a sleeper sofa, deemed essential for a small apartment.

Pattaya is a sex-tourism destination and has a slightly sleazy feel to it. The town is well known for its “walking street”, go-go bars and massage parlours. Virtually all its 10 million annual visitors are older men on the prowl for young girls. It’s nothing new and has been happening since the ‘60s when American GIs were sent to Pattaya for a bit of R&R. It’s therefore not unusual to see drunk men hanging onto bar counters at 10 in the morning - Thai girls by their side.

As you can imagine, Pattaya isn’t where people go to make friends. The condo bought was due to its cheap price tag and would give me a place to stay whenever needed (something which stood me in good stead years later). I was sure the people believed me somewhat weird (to say the least) as, by the time they were crossed-eyed and slack-jawed, I set out on my daily jog. The lifestyle in Pattaya is slightly depressing and immoral, and I couldn’t wait to get going.

I used my time to explore the area and cycled to the viewpoint on the hunt for a picture of Pattaya Bay at sunset. Sadly, the evening revealed no colour, but I saw a storm roll in and hurried to the bike. Peddling like the clappers, I made it just as the first drops started falling.

 

August 1 - Pattaya – Prok Fa - 102 km

Time to lock up and go exploring. Albeit the initial plan was to sit it out for two months to save money, I’d no patience and had done almost everything Pattaya offered. The running kept me occupied, but it wasn’t enough, and the novelty of staying in the same place soon wore off.

Mobile home packed, I pedalled out of Sodom and Gomorrah without as much as a glance in my rear-view mirror. Soon, I was in the countryside and far away from sleazy Sin City. The greatest joy was not having a plan or even an idea of where I was going. Instead, I marvelled at ornate temples and vast coconut palm plantations. I swore loudly to myself, landing on a sandy track past pineapple plantations. The area was clearly seldom-visited, and I received loads of thumbs-ups and surprised looks. A mild tailwind made an already good day even more enjoyable.

A temple, way up on a hill, looked worthwhile exploring and as I was the lone person there, the monks handed me the key to the shrine/temple. More stairs than anticipated led to the top, which featured lovely vistas. I thought it pretty exciting being the sole one and unlocking the building to peep inside to see dimly lit Buddha statues. A few pictures later, I locked the building and returned to the bicycle. Shortly past 4 p.m., I came across a tiny village revealing a significant market. I bought food, and on rounding the corner, spotted a sign to accommodation. I succumbed to temptation and followed a dirt track to said accommodation. The place was inexpensive but basic. Still, it was good enough for me.

 

August 2 - Phrok fa – Khlong Hat – 111 km

Packing was at leisure, and by the time I started hooking the panniers onto the bike, the owner was already hanging out the sheets from the previous night’s occupants. Still, he was generous and offered me coffee and a bunch of bananas. My chosen path veered in an easterly direction and along excellent rural roads. The landscape was exceptional as the route ran close to the Cardamom mountains forming the Cambodia border. The way ran past all kinds of farms, from rubber tree plantations to chilli peppers and pineapples. Route 3259 ran through a protected area. Although I kept an eye out for elephants, I didn’t spot any; however, elephant dung indicated they were indeed in the area.

The sweltering weather required numerous water stops and was quite entertaining. Thais appeared obliged to offer you something to eat. As a result, I tasted various Thai delicacies. At Khlong Hat, permission was granted to pitch my tent at the police station. The staff was accommodating, offered me food, and pointed out the toilets to wash using a plastic bucket. Later, I was given a delicious sizeable crispy crepe with a sweet filling.

 

August 3 - Khlong Hat – Aranyaprathet - 85 km

The previous day a sign indicated caves four kilometres down the drag. I cycled in the direction shown but could find no sign of caves at the four-kilometre mark. I proceeded until a sign pointed in the direction of nearby hills. The signboard indicated two caves and a viewpoint three kilometres off the road. I discovered the entrance, parked the bike, and walked where an overgrown path took me up the mountain. The trail was scarcely visible, leaving me to think not many ventured there. Only a few overgrown Buddha statues and faded flags indicated I was on the right track. Eventually, I reached what I presumed the top to discover the trail continued up the next hill. I was clearly on my way to the viewpoint but decided to turn around as I’d no water. Once on level ground, I uncovered the caves but didn’t explore as they were pitch dark and needed a torch.

My route continued in Prasat Khao Noi’s direction, ruins of a 6th-century, pre-Angkorian-style Khemar sanctuary. The ride was enjoyable and picturesque. I left my bicycle at a shelter at the base of the hill and ascended the hill on foot. Once at the top, rain came down in true tropical style. Best to return to the bike and wait out the weather before proceeding to nearby Aranyaprathet. The Aran Garden Hotel didn’t have a trace of garden. The green painted floors reminded of a prison, but it had a balcony and was squeaky clean. Finally, after sunset, the mobile food stalls made their appearance, and I ordered noodle soup while waiting for my laundry.

 

4 August - Aranyaprathet- Non Din Daeng – 108 km

Refreshed, I cycled out of Aranyaprathet and was barely out of town until finding the smallest of country lanes. The area offered more than enough bizarre attractions to keep me occupied and I landed up at the ruins of Prasat Sadok Kok Thom, an 11th-century Khmer temple. The temple was dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. I assumed the ruins were seldom explored as entry was free. The single other person was an older man guarding his water buffalo grazing the grounds of these ancient temples.

My path passed luminous green rice fields, more grazing buffalo, ornate temples, and the tiniest hamlets where the Friday market was in full swing. I could hear whispers of “farang, farang” (foreigner) cycling past.

Non Din Daeng housed another temple ruin, but all ruined out, I opted for digs allowing inspecting the ruins in the morning.

 

5 August - Non Din Daeng – Khao Kradong Forest Park – 111 km

Following breakfast, a short distance led to the ruins of Nong Hong Sanctuary. Again there was no one there except grazing cattle. The temple dates to the 16th Buddhist century, and I took a few pictures before continuing my ride. Next, was Prasat Muang Tam. These ruins were extensive and well preserved and one could only stand in awe of these magnificent buildings, built so many years ago. Prasat Muang Tam is a Khmer temple dating to the 10th and 11th centuries.

I cycled in the direction of Buri Ram, and en route, a truck stopped and the driver hopped out and gave me much needed water and cola. Then, on the outskirts of Buri Ram was the Khao Kradong Forest Park. Not expecting a great deal, I turned in anyhow. The site was surprisingly interesting and offered food carts, walks and even a place to pitch a tent. Luckily, camping was under cover as no sooner was the tent up and it started raining.

 

6 August - Khao Kradong Forest Park – Surin – 50 km

Woken by the crowing of cocks there was no point in staying put. I thus took the tent down and got underway in an easterly direction. I love central Thailand with its fertile plains and ancient history. Ruled by the Khmer Empire, it shaped modern-day Thailand and left many fascinating ruins. The day turned out completely different to what was anticipated. I turned into the small town of Surin, home of the Surin Elephant Round-up, a yearly festival. Surin’s indigenous people started training elephants as working animals when the Ayutthaya Kingdom came into power.

I came upon “My Hotel” opposite the station and called it a day. I’d plenty of catching up to do, and the afternoon was a productive one.

The following day was spent in Surin as it rained the best part of the day, only clearing in the afternoon.

 

August 8 - Surin - Uthumphon Phisai - 125 km

Barely two kilometres out of Surin, I landed on a rural path. The day turned into a marvellous one, as there’s nothing greener than the rice paddies of Isan. My chosen route was cross-country the majority of the day. It merely once did it require backtracking, quite remarkable, really, taking where I wandered.

My first stop was a little silk village outside Surin, and even if nothing was purchased, the process was intriguing. The next stop was Prasat Chom Phra, a Mahayana Buddhist temple that served as a medical station between 1181-1218. The rest of the day was a lovely ride through the countryside. The people were super friendly, waving and giving me the thumbs-up. I was gifted ice-cold water as well as fruit, and towards the end of the day, a nice chap stopped and gave me a bun with a sweet filling—just the thing needed to see me through the last few kilometres.

Road signs pointed towards an additional set of ruins 10 kilometres further, but 13 kilometres later, there was still nothing. By then, I’d lost my enthusiasm. Instead, I popped into a Tesco Lotus, bought enough food to feed an army, and settled for the first available digs.

 

August 9 - Uthumphon Phisai – Phibun – 130 km

On this day, nothing tickled my fancy, and I cycled the 130 kilometres to Phibun. But, sadly, the way to Phibun was primarily via the highway and, therefore, not overly exciting.

 

10 August – Phibun – Pha Taem National Park – 65 km

In sharp contrast to the previous day, this day turned out pretty extraordinary. The time was past 9 o’clock before cycling out of Phibun. My path followed the Mun River until it flowed into the Pak Mun Dam. Recent floods filled the dam to near-breaking point, and all sluice gates were wide open. At first, the plan was to cycle through the national park but realised I must’ve given somewone a thousand-baht note instead of a hundred.

I hence had no choice but to head to nearby Khong Chiam to find an ATM. Khong Chiam offered oodles of accommodation, beautiful temples and a lovely riverside setting. My first stop was at the Two-Colour River Viewpoint, and, yes, the river did indeed have two colours. Khong Chiam was located on the banks of the Mekong River, with Laos on the opposite bank. Still, I stayed as close to the river as possible and soon found myself on a small dirt road, which came to an abrupt halt at a river. I noticed a boat but no boatman. Like in a dream, the boat started floating across the river. What the heck? Only then did I see the boat was tied to a cable and pulled across by whoever needed it. I waited for it to reach my side and loaded the bicycle and panniers. A chap watching from afar stopped what he was doing to help me across the river. He must’ve thought a farang couldn’t do such a thing. Still, I was grateful for his help, gave him a small donation, and set off along a rutted and narrow dirt track. The route passed a simple Meditation Centre, and if ever I wanted to spend time at such a place, I’d return to this one. It appeared the real deal and offered few modern facilities.

Not significantly farther, a turn-off led to Pha Taem National Park. A short cycle brought me to PK Riverside Resort, where one could camp on the banks of the Mekong under a canopy. Not free, but worth the 100 TB. I pitched the tent and watched the river flow past en route from Tibet to the South China Sea.

 

11 August - Pha Taem National Park – Khemmarat - 117 km

Having coffee, watching boats moving upriver, I imagined I could sit there all day but folded up the tent, loaded panniers and cycled up the hill. The remainder of the day turned out a wee bit undulating, to say the least. The hills weren’t steep or long but lasted all day. Albeit all hunky-dory in the morning, it wasn’t all fun towards the end of the day, and I cursed while slowly making my way up the last few hills.

The route veered inland, and although not flush next to the river, it remained a stunning ride. The way north ran through a National Park and thus lush and green. The area seemed seldom visited as I hardly encountered any traffic. Nevertheless, the park offered exciting sites: unusual pillar-like rock formations and huge stones on a small base. Not much beyond that was what is known as the 3000 Stones. Khemmarat, a surprisingly substantial town, marked the end of the day’s ride. Hungry, I rushed to the food stalls and then searched for either a place to pitch a tent or a room. I found the room first and was happy to settle in an air-con abode.

 

12 August - Khemmarat – Mukdahan – 85 km

Of course, there are days one can cycle endlessly, but there are also days I can scarcely get going. This day was the latter, and I’d to work hard up the slight inclines. These are not my favourite days, and dead-tired I crawled into Mukdahan, booked into a room, ate, and flopped onto the bed.

 

13 August - Mukdahan - Sakhon Nakhon - 122 km

Feeling energised, I opted for Savannakhet on the Lao side of the Mekong River instead of heading north on the Thailand side of the river. However, once at immigration, I was told one couldn’t cross the Friendship bridge by bicycle (not an especially friendly bridge after all). I, therefore, resumed my ride on the Thailand side.

It became an excellent day of vastly varied routes and vistas. Veering off the main road, I landed on a dirt track amongst rubber plantations. Awesome stuff. In true Thai style, villagers looked up in surprise and called for me to share their food. Afterwards, I pressed onto Sakhon Nakhon, as I needed to get to Vientiane, Laos, to renew my Thai visa before Tania’s arrival. Regrettably, she contacted me to say she couldn’t make it. Though sorry to hear this, things didn’t always work out as planned. I was starving and was happy to find a night market directly behind the hotel. I was famished. I bought two meals but could hardly finish one, let alone two.

 

14 August - Sakhon Nakhon - Sawang Daen Din – 90 km

Since Tania wasn’t coming to Thailand any longer, my plans have changed considerably. I didn’t have to extend my Thai visa and could thus visit China as planned. Yay! I needed to get to China before September 5 and roughly 200 kilometres remain to the Thai/Laos border.

The North-eastern part of the country received a tremendous amount of rain during the previous two weeks and whole towns were flooded. There were concerns about dam walls breaking. Although I escaped practically all the rain, the rivers crossed were in full flood. Villagers used this opportunity to fish and used all possible means.

The weather was sweltering and the rest areas at police stations came in handy. I followed farm tracks nearly all day, only reaching the main road at the small village of Sawang Daen Din. If wanting to go to Laos, this was where I’d turn off to cut a straight line through the countryside. Not having made up my mind which direction to go, I settled for a room in the village. At 250 Thai Baht, the room was somewhat bare-bones but provided air-con. The remainder of the evening was spent eating.

 

15 August - Sawang Daen Din – Nong Khai – 125 km

I’d worked late the previous night, and I was slow to emerge. Recent floods washed away countless country lanes and workers were frantically busy repairing the damage. The floods were a disaster for some, but the bright green paddies fields made a spectacular sight. Sadly, several areas were still underwater. Unfortunately, the rain wasn’t over, as I could see dark clouds moving in from the north.

My path took me through tiny settlements where villagers were siesta-ing in their hammocks. Farmers used the tarmac to dry colourfully dyed grasses for weaving sleeping mats. It’s incredible how people can sleep simply using a grass mat between them and the floor.

Eventually, I landed on a gravel track through the plantations and was a tad peed off getting a flat tyre. Nevertheless, my dirt trail proceeded, past people, doing their daily chores, farmers making charcoal, fishing or selling food and snacks. Older ladies were attending cattle or foraging—a fascinating glimpse into the life of the average farmer in Thailand.

The threatening weather made me push on to Nong Khai, situated upon the banks of the Mekong River. The town was next to the Friendship Bridge and immigration checkpoint to Vientiane, Laos. Slinking into Mut Mee Guesthouse was in the nick of time, as no sooner was I in a room and rain came gushing down. Mut Mee is an outstanding guesthouse providing a great selection of rooms. I opted for the most inexpensive one at 200 TB and, albeit basic, was a super clean room in stark comparison to the previous night.

 

August 16– Nong Khai, Thailand – Vientiane, Laos – 35 km

Tania contacted me to say she’d changed her mind, and we arranged to meet in Bangkok on September 1. Sadly, it meant I wasn’t going to China after all. Marguerite Marais confirmed she’d bought her ticket and would land in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, on December 4. I’d work to do, and long past 3h00 before turning in. I was relatively slow in packing but eventually cycled the short distance to the Thai/Lao border, bought my visa, and cycled into the most relaxed capital in the world.

The first stop was at the money changer and the phone shop. Then, with a wallet full of Lao Kip ($1 – 8300 LAK) and a new SIM card in my phone, I proceeded into town. Starving, the familiar sight of the Laos Baguette (Khao Jee) vendor was a welcome sight. The baguette is filled with lettuce, sliced tomatoes, carrot, onion, moo (pork), chopped ham, and topped with a chilli sauce. Next up was the Thai consulate, but as expected, they were already closed, and my visa application had to wait until the morning.