009 CYCLE TOURING CYPRUS

 

CYPRUS

120 Km – 8 Days

14 September – 22 September 2007

MAP

PHOTOS

 

14 September – Girne, Cyprus

Sigitas' acquaintance, Vidmantas, kindly offered me his house in Girne while he was away for the weekend. Staying in Girne and enjoying the comfort of his home was an obvious choice.

Cyprus, officially known as the Republic of Cyprus, is an island located in the Mediterranean Sea. It is the third-largest island in the Mediterranean and a popular tourist destination. The Republic of Cyprus claims to be the legitimate government of the entire island, with Nicosia serving as the capital and largest city.

However, in reality, Cyprus is divided into two parts. The area controlled by the Republic is in the south and west and comprises about 59% of the island. The north, administered by the self-declared Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, covers about 36%. The remaining 4% constitutes a UN buffer zone. The international community regards the island's northern part (occupied by Turkish forces) as illegal under international law.

As obtaining a visa to enter Greece was practically impossible, I stayed on the Turkish side.

 

15 September – Girne (Turkish) Kyrenia (Greek)

During my time in Girne, I attempted to obtain a Syrian visa. Unfortunately, the embassy was located in the southern part of the island, under Greek control, making it inaccessible to me. After exhausting all efforts to seek help in Girne, I opted to pamper myself with a leg wax and pedicure instead, hoping that the situation would eventually resolve itself.

 

16-17 September – Girne

I explored the coast around Girne by bicycle while having the luxury of a room. While Cyprus was mountainous and arid, its shoreline featured stunning landscapes and numerous pristine beaches. Unfortunately, many new developments have spoiled the rural feel of the area. These developments have also endangered the nesting places of sea turtles that have been breeding along the Cyprus coast for centuries.

I spent an additional day in Girne trying to contact the Syrian Embassy. Vidmantes offered to get the correct telephone number, but our calls went unanswered. So, I decided to leave it and try my luck at the Syrian border instead.

 

18 September - Girne – Kaplica – 60 kilometres

The following day, I thanked Vidmantes and continued towards Famagusta. By late afternoon, I came across a lovely location on the beach that had a bar and restaurant. I deemed it to be a good enough spot and decided to pitch my tent there. With September marking the end of the summer season, only a few tourists remained —mostly pale-skinned Brits in Union Jack swimsuits. LOL

 

19 September - Kaplica – Famagusta – 60 kilometres

The following morning, I abandoned my little paradise and cycled over the mountain (nothing like a mountain pass first thing in the morning). Although campsites were available outside Famagusta, I opted for a hotel near the harbour for convenience, as the return ferry to Mersin, Turkey departed at 8h30 a.m., with the ticket office opening at 7h00 a.m.

Famagusta turned out to be fascinating as it was from here that Silk Road merchants transported goods to Western Europe. The historic centre is still surrounded by walls built by the Venetians in the 15th and 16th centuries. I spent hours wandering its ancient ruins and the streets of the old walled city. Unfortunately, I ended up with numerous itchy bites, likely from mosquitos, covering my face, arms, and legs. Irritated by the itching, I returned to my abode.

 

20 September – Famagusta, Cyprus - Mersin (Mainland Turkey) - By Ferry

Early in the morning, I loaded my bike and headed to the harbour, expecting to catch a ferry at 8:30 a.m., as per the email I had received. However, I was surprised to find out that the ferry was scheduled for 8:30 p.m. instead.

With the entire day ahead, I decided to explore Famagusta and its Salamis Ruins, which date back to the 11th Century BC. Despite being destroyed by enemies and natural disasters such as earthquakes, an impressive amount of the ruins remains intact. Later on, I went back to the harbour, where I met two Nepali guys who were on a biking trip around the world. I couldn't help but question whether they were truly cycling or simply relied on public transport to secure free accommodation and food.

 

21 September - Mersin – Atakia - By Bus

The ferry was a shocking sight—best described as a rust bucket. I was sceptical about its ability to reach the mainland, but at least it had seats suitable for sitting or sleeping. The trip didn’t take the expected nine hours as mentioned on the ticket (not surprising, given the state it was in), and we only slinked into Mersin the following day at 9h00 a.m. En route, we had our fair share of drama as a man fell overboard, but the crew, despite the poor condition of the vessel, promptly spun around and picked him up. Not an easy feat in the dark. Hats off to the captain!

The two Nepali guys were also heading towards Syria. Once in Mersin, we decided to take a bus to Atakia on the Turkey-Syrian border. If impossible to get a Syrian visa at the border, I wanted enough time to remain on my Turkish visa to make alternative arrangements. At Atakia, we located comfortable accommodations at Sister Barbara’s, where we spent the night. After waking to one of the Nepali guys fondling my breast, I yelled at him, took my stuff, and moved to a locked dormitory for safety. The little bastard!

The following day, I packed up and cycled to the Syrian border and, luckily, never reencountered the Nepalese guys.

 

22 September – Atakia, Turkey – Aleppo, Syria – 110 kilometres

Upon arriving at the Syrian border, I met four British motorbike riders who were travelling overland to South Africa. They introduced me to Ahmed, a tour guide who helped them obtain Syrian visas. Ahmed was remarkably helpful, guiding me through the paperwork before disappearing. Three hours later, I had my visa in hand and was on my way to Aleppo, Syria. I felt incredibly lucky and grateful to have met the motorbike riders and Ahmed.

My first thought upon cycling into Syria was, “What have I gotten myself into?” Syria felt like an entirely different world, defined by its distinct culture, language, landscape, cuisine, and architecture. Not only was it a conservative Muslim and desert country, but it was also one of the oldest inhabited regions in the world, with archaeological finds indicating human habitation dating back 700,000 years.

Along the way, there was little to be seen except for cotton fields and typical Syrian communities consisting of a mosque, a market, and a few modest courtyard homes. These homes appeared modest from the outside but could be quite luxurious internally. They offered total privacy as well as a communal family area, often with a water feature or even a pool. I was so captivated by this architectural style that I vowed to one day build a courtyard-style home of my own.