85 CYCLE TOURING THAILAND (8.1) - WAITING FOR THE CAMERA - BANGKOK TO LAOS

 85 Thailand (8.1)

899 Kilometres – 26 Days
8 August – 2 September 2016

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94 Thailand (8.1)

899 Kilometres – 26 Days

8 August – 2 September 2016

 

7-11 August - Bangkok

Tania returned home, and time for me to think about where to head next. However, shortly after handing in my camera and lenses, an email from Canon stated that the work would take three weeks.

I needed to figure out what to do and rented the room for an entire week, allowing time to explore options. Unfortunately, a minor running injury stopped me in my tracks, and I thus couldn’t even jog in the morning. The camera was my only toy, and I, consequently, had little to entertain myself. I’d clothes repaired, did laundry, and spent more money than intended buying a rear rack bag. But, of course, when bored in Bangkok, there’s only yourself to blame as there’s plenty to do. Still, I wasn’t motivated to do much.

After a significant amount of deliberation, I decided to head to China, as I believed there remained one or two months of relatively good weather up north. As a Chinese visa was easiest in Vientiane, Laos, the plan was to cycle to the border via a different route and hoped the camera would be ready on reaching the border. The plan was to take a bus to Bangkok, collect the camera, cross the border into Laos, get the Chinese visa, and then bus myself to Kunming, where I left off last time.

These plans were only ideas, as I wasn’t good at sticking to schedules. So in the meantime, I paid a visit to the hairdresser, had a pedicure, had new sunglasses made, and took the bicycle for a service.

 

12-17 August - Bangkok

12 August was a public holiday and the Queen’s birthday. Massive celebrations were held in the country, and I considered it wise to stay away in the light of recent bombings. The touristy Khaosan Road area revealed a heavy police presence that was uncomfortable. Instead, I walked to the MBK building, not all far away if one walked straight, but my walk practically took the entire day due to my wanderings. While pushing past garland makers, food vendors, and begging bowl-makers to the modern and busy MBK building, I again realised how fascinating and diverse Bangkok was. I returned, clutching a new Panasonic Lumix compact camera to entertain myself.

Returning was thoroughly enjoyable since I took the wrong turn and ended up amongst people living next to the railway line—what an intriguing area. The way out was only achieved with the help of residents. I would never have managed on my own in the labyrinth of narrow alleys. Judging by the reactions of citizens, no foreigners ever stumbled in there.

The impressive part of my walkabout wasn’t the camera but discovering, right in Banglamphu, a small community of holdouts famous for making and selling fireworks, breeding fighting cocks and making elaborate birdcages. The 50 households (comprising the Pom Mahakan community) have faced eviction for years. In the meantime, life remained as usual. The area was still the place to buy fireworks, although the fireworks were made in and imported from China. Some of the original homes were well over 200 years old, and I understood that people from southern Thailand migrated here in the old days. They brought their skills of making zebra dove and red-whiskered bulbul cages and were still practising that skill. The centre housed a 200-year-old fig tree people believed could protect them. The oldest house in the community was a beautiful wooden house featuring a high ceiling. The house belonged to a gold merchant. He’d collected gold dust by buying clothes and rugs from gold ornament shops, then burnt them down, collecting the gold. How fascinating to think all this was right under my nose, and I never knew about it. Sadly, a few years later, the government evicted the community to establish a park.

I was more than ready to roll out of Bangkok and couldn’t resist one last bowl of wonton soup from Hong Kong Noodle. But, sadly, the universe had other plans as the bike shop was waiting on a derailleur jockey wheel from SRAM.

The following day the bike shop messaged to say the bicycle was ready, bless them. Bok Bok Bike is by far the best touring bicycle shop in Bangkok. Time to head out of Bangkok.

In the morning, I first made a turn in Chinatown to enjoy a final plate of dim sum. I was surprised how one could go from one highly touristy area, where busses were parked two or three deep, to a place where people carted their wares in woven baskets, all in the space of two city blocks. I walked past traders burning offerings, ensuring a good day of business and past shops selling incense and paper offerings. My meander took me past food stalls, richly decorated Chinese temples, and boy monks en route to school.

Dim sum stuffed, I headed in the opposite direction to collect the bicycle. I scarcely recognised the bike as it looked brand new, and I’m always surprised at the shop’s effort.

 

18-19 August – Bangkok – Kanchanaburi – 100 km

Departing Bangkok was by taking a taxi 25/30 kilometres. Whether worth it, I wasn’t entirely sure. The cab dropped me outside the city limits, but I remained very much in the thick of things.

Soon enough, a minor path lured me off the busy road. I love these rural paths as they take one through weird and wonderful places, to such an extent that I landed at the rubbish dump. Unfortunately, on a day when I should’ve felt full of energy, I’d a most dreadful day. I’d zero energy, aches and pains all over, suffered leg cramps, and generally felt unwell. Praying I wasn’t coming down with another virus, I pushed onwards and rolled into Kanchanaburi just as the mobile food carts appeared. Not hungry, I searched for a place to be horizontal and, in the process, came upon an A-frame bungalow at Rainbow Lodge, right along the River Khwae.

 

20 August - Kanchanaburi - Suphan Buri – 100 km

The first stop was at the famous bridge over the River Kwai in the morning. The setting wasn’t all picturesque and I understood why South Korea was chosen as part of the movie. However, the day provided considerably better riding than the previous day, partly due to a tailwind. I flew along past rice paddies and ruins dating to the Ayutthaya period.

The terrain was primarily low-lying river plains, and therefore pan-flat, making pleasurable pedalling. In U-Thong, I stopped briefly at a few ruins and was astonished at the history of this part of Thailand (U-Thong was the first king of the kingdom of Ayutthaya, reigning from 1350 to 1369, and the district thus named after him).

Towards the end of the day, I weakened at the thought of a room and turned off into the town past the striking Pillar Shrine adorned by an immense dragon statue. The shrine was once a Thai-style wooden shrine but later renovated and converted to a Chinese style. Today, the complex houses the four-handed god Vishnu, worshipped by Thais and Chinese. Locating digs was effortless, but the appearance of the Mind Hotel fooled me. The building seemed acceptable from the outside, and being a ground-floor air-con room, I considered the price a bargain. However, once inside, I realised the room wasn’t the deal envisaged. The curtains were old and shredded, but one could live with that; it was the bed that got me! The mattress was so worn, sitting upon it, I wholly disappeared, I kid you not! I wanted to take a selfie, but you would have been unable to see me. The snow-white bedding was in no better condition, and I feared bedbugs would be part and parcel of the deal.

 

21 August - Suphan Buri – Sing Buri – 81 km

Before getting underway, I popped into a few temples. First up was Wat Phra Rup. It’s said the temple dates over 600 years and that the reclining Buddha has the most beautiful face in all of Thailand—umm, I guess beauty is indeed in the eye of the beholder. Next was Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat, situated in the heart of the old city and the temple housed several ancient ruins. Finally, Wat Khae, on the outskirts of town, was home to a 1000-year-old tamarind tree. The tree is now spread out and adorned by Buddha statues (as can be expected).

The day was a pleasant one of riding as the entire route to Sing Buri was along farm roads and, albeit blistering, the ride was an absolute pleasure. At first, my path followed a river, a fascinating ride through rural communities going about their daily chores. Butterflies and dragonflies accompanied me as I biked past rice and sugarcane plantations. The day would’ve been perfect if not for a puncture. Fortunately, I was good at fixing flat tyres by then and was soon on my way. Ornate temples and Buddhas, one larger than the other, filled the day. The route passed buffalo villages and the Monument of Bang Rachan Heroes, built in honour of the villagers of Bang Rachan who bravely fought the Burmese army in 1765. Each day I learn something new. Regrettably, I quickly forget these facts, and thus my primary motivation to keep a journal.

 

22-23 August – Sing Buri – Lop Buri – 30 km

The day turned out surprising as I left Sing Buri intending to head toward the Lao border, about 560 kilometres away.

My chosen route provided little in the line of facilities as I set off through the market area and soon landed on a small side road along a canal. The closer to Lop Buri, the more I started dreaming about the food at NooM Guest House. Thus, all my plans went up in smoke, and I turned down to Lop Buri and headed to NooM Guest House.

Lop Buri, or Lopburi, is an ancient town housing many old ruins. The original part of the city is still occupied by ordinary Thai people living and working amongst ruins dating to both the Khmer and Ayuthaya periods. Even though I’d explored the area several times, I still marvelled at the idea that one could cycle into a town and slap-bang in front of you is a 600-year-old temple home to a resident troop of monkeys. Old ruins were everywhere and unexpectedly jutted out behind modern buildings. It was hence not surprising to find them forming the main roundabout. The remainder of the day was spent eating, doing laundry, and fixing punctured tubes.

My laundry wasn’t ready by the morning, and I stayed one more day doing truly little.

 

24 August - Lopburi – Roadside camp – 96 km

Feeling energised the day turned out a lovely ride, at first along a canal and then along Route 205. Not a great deal happened, apart from farmlands and small communities, food carts and shops to keep me fed and watered.

In the afternoon, dark clouds gathered, and one could hear rumbling, the tell-tale sign of an approaching storm. Soon big drops started falling, and I took shelter at a police booth. Although no one was around, the building looked well used and offered a perfect camping spot at the rear, undercover and sporting an electrical point. On the opposite side of the building were two toilets, one containing a drum of water to wash and coupled with a nearby eatery, I stayed put. The lady at the food stand indicated its OK to camp and it appeared I wasn’t the first one, as she understood my intentions well.

I set up camp, bought a beer and a mosquito coil, and at around 18h00, was called to join the restaurant lady and her daughter for supper. How sweet of them, and how interesting the meal! A salad of fresh green beans and bamboo shoots was served accompanied by fried fish, a pork and cassava dish, an omelette, rice, and an extremely spicy chilli sauce. The food was delicious, and I wished I had spoken the language.

 

25 August – Roadside camp – Ban Kok– 106 km

Camping adjacent to a busy and noisy highway didn’t make sleeping in. I waved goodbye to the family from the restaurant and headed over the misty hills. The road stretched far in front of me, and I’d a feeling of an immense sense of freedom. The road was my home, and I was thrilled with that.

At a water point, a lovely Thai couple stopped and mentioned they’d seen me along the way the previous day and inquired where I was from and where I was going. Where I came from was easy, but where I was heading remained a mystery. However, they kindly gave me their phone numbers in case of needing assistance. How sweet of them.

All day the weather seemed threatening, and at around 15h00, there was no escaping it. I waited under one of the bridges before proceeding to the nearest settlement. I arrived drenched and cold and opted for a guesthouse. My walk to the market made me feel like the town’s most important attraction. I doubted whether any farang had ever overnighted in Ban Kok.

 

26 August – Ban Kok – Kaeng Khro – 108 km

On certain days, I couldn’t get going; if not one thing, then it was another. The previous day every 10 kilometres or so, things needed adjusting. At times I stopped to take pictures and other times to pop into a supermarket. Before realising, the time was midday, and I’d barely done 50 kilometres. There was no rush as an email from Canon stated the camera repairs would take an additional week. However, being less than 300 kilometres from the Lao border, I needed to drag my heels a tad. Unable to decide what direction to go, I took Route 202 but soon changed my mind and veered off onto Route 201.

My chosen path crossed a picturesque part of Thailand, sporting rolling hills and rocky outcrops. The weather was sweltering, without a cloud in the sky. The mushrooms sold were a clear sign I was in a wooded area. A sign indicated a 1000-year-old cycad forest, but 45 kilometres off my route, and I wasn’t sure whether the detour would be worth the 90 kilometres.

As I neared Kaeng Khro, clouds moved in, and rain soon came bucketing down. I was pointed to SK Place, a lovely hotel sporting good quality rooms behind a school. The corner restaurant provided typical noodle soup and beer. All this happened to villagers' great amusement. There’s no hiding if you’re a farang travelling by bicycle and the entire town was aware of my whereabouts. Needless to say I was grateful for a room and the opportunity to close the door and get out of the public eye.

 

27 August - Kaeng Khro – Ubolratana – 109 km

The day turned out another typical Thai day. Rice fields, sugarcane plantations, temples, Buddha statues, and scrawny white cattle with very long ears abounded. I passed the ever-present noodle and chicken barbeque stalls, turned off, and headed toward Ubol Ratana Dam, a magnificent ride. The ride was scenic with the dam to one side and a national park to the other.

Tiny settlements, where the streets smelled of cow dung, lined the road, and farmers looked up in surprise from their afternoon naps as I pedalled past. I kept an eye out for lodging overlooking the dam, but couldn’t find any and instead came upon perfect digs in town at the Reaun Araya Spa, so-called, due to a rather lovely swimming pool. At times I lived a good life.

 

28-30 August – Ubolratana – Udon Thani – 115 km

I was pleased to find a complimentary breakfast and well fed, I loaded the bike and slowly made my way to Udon Thani—not that I initially planned to go there, but that’s where I landed up. Three times during the day I got rained out, and biking into Udon Thani, the heavens opened once more. I donned my bright orange poncho and pushed onwards into the city centre—cape flying in the breeze like a superhero.

What a mess! The rain came down to such an extent, that streets flooded in no time, traffic came to a standstill, and shop owners frantically tried to divert water from their shops. Finding accommodation in the heavy downpour was a real challenge. One could barely see where to go, let alone look out for a hotel. Hectic stuff! Eventually, it was safer to push the bicycle as the water became stronger and covered a large area without indicating where the street ended and the canal started. I imagined it entirely possible to disappear down an uncovered maintenance hole or accidentally land in the canal spotted earlier. Phew, what a mission. Drenched, I located the King’s Hotel, which offered huge rooms (albeit on the worn side) at a budget price. I was happy to discover the shower warm and a place to change into dry clothes.

The entire following day was spent eating. I started by devouring a massive plate of green curry from the market. I continued snacking through the day on doughnuts, chocolate brownies and pastries. As the sun set, I was down to my last bag of fruit, and had no intention of giving up, until all was finished. Hahaha.

 

31 August – Udon Thani – Nong Khai – 54 km

I woke long beyond 08h00; it must’ve been all the eating that exhausted me. Then, fuelled by an excess of calories, I flew to Nong Khai, only 50 kilometres away. Nong Khai is a border town (with Laos) and has a lovely location along the Mekong River.

I practised the speech I would deliver to Canon arriving in Nong Khai all day. The repair work was initially said to take two weeks, but I was still waiting a month down the line. Nevertheless, the ride was marred by giant Buddha statues, feather duster and broom salesmen, and coconut vendors. The juice of the roasted coconuts is wonderfully sweet, as cooking concentrates the natural sugars and loosens the flesh. The meat can easily be peeled off and eaten without using a spoon, and I chewed on it a good couple of kilometres.

In Nong Khai, I headed to Mut Mee Guesthouse, famous for its good location on the Mekong, its substantial variety of budget rooms and its lovely garden restaurant. The speech I’d practised during the day came to nothing, as an email from Canon, stated my camera lens was ready for collection. Hallelujah. They must’ve heard my speech coming. I thus bought a ticket on the night train to Bangkok.

 

1 September - Bangkok

The train arrived in Bangkok at 6h00, but the MBK Centre (where I was headed) only opened at 10h00, which called for a coffee at the station prior to strolling the two kilometres or so to the city centre. Once the lens was collected, I headed to the Human Body Museum, an extraordinary place and easily one of the weirdest, with 14 dissected human bodies on display. I found it disturbing seeing them so life-like but without skin. Weird. I spent much money buying things needed and things I didn’t need at all (but assumed essential at the time). The return trip was again a night train, and I’d the whole day to kill. Bangkok never failed to amaze as I strolled past sweet-smelling flower garlands, street musicians and a one-armed lady, noisily selling small birds for release. I’d a 10 THB shower at the station, drank more coffee, and played online.

 

2 September- Bangkok – Nang Khai, Thailand – Vientiane, Laos - 27 km

I slept well and the train arrived at Nong Khai station at around 7h00 from where I walked the three kilometres to Mut Mee Guesthouse. Once all were done in Thailand, I loaded the bike and headed to the border. An uneventful crossing took me across the Friendship Bridge into Laos. From the immigration, a short cycle ride led to the capital, Vientiane. En route to the centre, I stopped at the Chinese Embassy to inquire about a visa and collect the forms. To my surprise, I learned that a visa application took two weeks. After that, there wasn’t much one could do, so I headed into the city where I settled for a room at the Dhaka Hotel, and as it was infamous for bedbugs, I first gave the bed a good spray.

I did what I usually do in a new country; drew local currency and bought a SIM card. Walking, I heard someone call my name, and lo and behold, wouldn’t it be Ernest, indeed a voice from the past. 

080 &81 CYCLE TOURING THAILAND (7)

80 THAILAND (7)
1,766 Kilometres – 36 Days
20 May – 15 June 2016

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080 Thailand (7)
1,766 Kilometres – 36 Days
19 May – 15 June 2016

 

19 May - Alor Setar, Malaysia – Hat Yai, Thailand - 106 km

There wasn’t a single “How old ARE you?” on this day. I guessed my aura clearly stated, “Don’t even think about it!” The 60 kilometres to the border was uneventful, and the crossing into Thailand was easy-peasy. I followed the usual SIM card and ATM routine before a 57-kilometre cycle ride spat me out in Hat Yai. The area around the railway station came with a plethora of inexpensive digs. Park Hotel turned out quite reasonable at 350 Thai Baht (app. $10) for a sizable room sporting wi-fi and a bathroom.

 

20 May - Hat Yai – Phatthalung - 110 km

Hat Yai was along a rural route, and the day turned out surprisingly exciting. When travelling by bicycle, one seldom flies under the radar, and my path led slap-bang through the centre of the Friday market. It was clear the area was off the beaten track, as not only were the road signs in Thai, but my presence caused quite a stir and seemed to put the fear of God into the kids. Villagers informed it was impossible to reach Bangkok by bicycle, and not even the mange dogs gave chase. However, the leading indicator that this was rural Thailand was coming upon the “reading tree”, where a pair of communal reading glasses was left hanging from a branch. The way ran past large rubber tree plantations, small villages, and a multitude of temples.

My ride occurred between bouts of rain; luckily, convenient shelters gave cover when the heavens opened. Around 5 p.m., I pedalled, sopping wet, into Phatthalung, located a room, and hurried to the night market. Of course, one should never go to the night market hungry, as indicated by the amount of food I purchased. My meander further revealed that it was a Buddhist holiday, so no beer was sold. Sigh!

 

21 May – Phatthalung – Thung Song – 90 km

A vital document I had sent via DHL from India never reached Cape Town, and more than two weeks later, it was still nada, nothing, niks. Oi, the Indian post and I didn’t get along well. Of course, I had a tracking number, but its status was “number not activated.” Searching the internet revealed no telephone number for Kochi DHL. DHL Customer Care was equally useless. My only option was to email Henry from Kevin’s Homestay (my previous accommodation) to ask him for help. In the meantime, the area was scanned for a courier company to resend the document as the closest DHL office was in Krabi, 220 kilometres west. Arghh!

By morning, a flower garland adorned my handlebar as I pulled my cap down and continued north. What must be done, must be done. Seventy kilometres down the drag and 20 kilometres before the Krabi turn-off, an email arrived from Henry. He not only got me the number but also went to the post office, spoke to them, and gathered all the details concerning the document and the new tracking number. There are fantastic people in this world!

The document arrived in Cape Town but was on hold as the fee charged wasn’t sufficient to cover delivery. Have you ever? I wondered how long it would’ve taken them to inform me. It boggles the mind, and there was no thanking Henry enough for his efforts. However, Tung Song made it a convenient place to stay overnight and to ensure everything was sorted before proceeding.

 

22-23 May - Thung Song

A day was spent in Thung Song to double-check that everything was in order. In the process, I ate everything in sight but stopped short of going into KFC. My eating spree started at the morning market and continued through the day, up to the night market. LOL. The exciting part was coming upon an intriguing festival. Devotees en route to the temple revealed cheeks pierced by metal spikes, accompanied by a procession of dancers and, of course, the ever-present fireworks. The affair was colourful and boisterous, not to mention bizarre.

I felt increasingly weak as the day progressed, and I had quite a fever by evening. I feared I had contracted dengue fever, as my illness came with all the body aches and upset stomach. The night was spent tossing and turning, and it was 3:30 before I dozed off. A racquet outside my window woke me at 6.30, and I realised the fever had subsided. How weird, having such a fever and having it all gone by morning.

Once off the beaten touristy track, little English was spoken. It’s unsurprising, as English isn’t one of Thailand’s official languages. English wasn’t even spoken at the hotel, but it’s not too difficult to indicate your intentions when entering a hotel. Not feeling well, I toyed with ordering a basic pizza instead of eating my usual fried noodles. Still, the process proved a tad more complicated than foreseen. In the end, I settled for the traditional fried noodles.

I received word that the document posted in India had been traced and had finally reached its destination (many phone calls later). Hallelujah!

 

24 May - Thung Song – Surat Thani - 110 km

Someone asked if cycle touring was still exciting after nine years. Amazingly enough, a new destination remained as exciting as the first day. Each day (weather providing) put a big grin on my face and I believed myself one of the world’s luckiest people. Cycle touring may not always be easy or comfortable, but whose life is devoid of ups and downs and saddle sores, figuratively speaking?

The two days’ rest did me a world of good. I felt energetic; not even the rain or roadworks could dampen my spirit. It rained the entire day, but I clipped in my flashing lights for added visibility and flew to Surat Thani. There must’ve been a tailwind, as I seldom “flew” anywhere. Finally, accommodation was secured at the Route 44 and 41 intersection, which allowed for showering and donning dry clothes.

 

25 May - Surat Thani district – Roadside cottage - 110 km

The day turned out to be another 110-kilometre ride. The weather was cool and, although a constant drizzle prevailed, the rain didn’t bucket down as usual, and it felt like I was burning up the tarmac. “Felt” being the operative word as, in reality, I was doing my usual slow ride!

There were heaps of lovely people en route. A friendly lady was selling steamed palm cakes and they were delicious. The next stop was the coconut sellers where the vendor handed me a unique coconut containing a shell filled with jelly. It was delicious, thirst-quenching, and fantastic, and she wanted no money.

Following 110 kilometres of riding, convenient chalets came into view. The price was reasonable, and it sported a small shop selling crisps, beer, and cup noodles. I love it when a plan comes together.

 

26 May - Roadside cottage – Chumphon – 90 km

The rain continued throughout the night and it was still drizzling by morning. Not particularly good at waiting, I donned my plastic raincoat (cut in half to make cycling easier) and headed to Chumphon. Fortunately, the weather soon cleared, and the day became pleasant biking.

I came across ladies selling steamed palm cakes which made for a perfect breakfast. Thailand is aptly known as the land of smiles, and during the day I encountered tons of smiling faces, from fruit sellers to plastic bottle collectors. As always, my route went past countless beautiful temples and the ever-present durian vendors.

Chumphon offered digs at the Farang Bar, which looked a tad worse for wear. The rooms were basic, but one couldn’t complain about the price.

While cycling, I noticed a severe wobble in my wheel, which led me to search for a bike shop. However, I decided to first grab a bite to eat. Fortunately, in Thailand, you can smell the food sellers from miles away.

Eventually, I found a bike shop but, unfortunately, the language barrier made it difficult to communicate my needs. However, I did come across an extensive array of dim sum, which made up for the lack of success at the bike shop.

 

27 May - Chumphon

The phrase "Don't have" is often the first response from staff when a foreigner enters a shop in Thailand. Hence sorting out the wheel wasn’t all that easy. Moreover, one discovers how frustrating and challenging communication can be when doing business in a foreign country. Despite these obstacles, I persisted and eventually found a second-hand rim that would hopefully last until I reached Bangkok. I also managed to locate a keyboard for my laptop, which had lost the use of the bottom row of keys. And there I thought the Mercury retrograde was over.

Afterwards, I half-heartedly cleaned the drizzled fuel mess off the bike, did the laundry, and cleaned my water bottles, which by then had a lush growth of fungi. I felt sorry for the French couple next door, as the lady had contracted dengue fever and was very ill.

 

28 May - Chumphon – Thungwualaen Beach – 20 km

Chumphon to Thungwualaen Beach was a mere 20 kilometres, but it was one of my favourite beaches. However, the place looked a tad forlorn. Nonetheless, I managed to find a decent room for 300 baht. Although I could tell from the drippings and the hole gnawed in the table that I wasn’t the only occupant.

 

29-30 May - Thungwualaen Beach – Bang Saphan Beach – 95 km

Feeling lethargic, I soldiered on, past heaps of beachside accommodation, all looking extremely inviting as they were right on the beach. The road ran past many beautiful temples, all immensely colourful and ornate. A few temples featured a Buddha in the shade of a multi-headed king cobra, known as the Naga Buddha, which is believed to have protected the Buddha from the elements while he attained enlightenment.

My route followed the coast, and the recently resurfaced road was in perfect condition and sported a lovely bike lane. The way crossed numerous rivers where fishing boats were lying side by side, sometimes three or four deep. Smoke billowed from mobile carts selling grilled fish and other delicious looking eats. The smoky aroma was enough to make anyone hungry.

Bang Saphan Beach was reached early, even though the way was slightly hillier. I only mentioned this because southern Thailand is flat, and one seldom encounters hills.

I spent an extra day in Bang Saphan as enough time remained to reach Bangkok and meet Tania for a six-week touring holiday in Southeast Asia. So, I went for a jog but didn’t go far due to the short beach, which was only about five or six kilometres.

Early morning the weather was already boiling, and the locals must have thought I was insane for running. Thais, generally, prefer indoor sports like badminton, table tennis and Muay Thai. If they found me strange cycling (while they all have bicycles), you could imagine their surprise seeing a person running.

 

31 May–2 June - Bang Saphan Beach – Prachaup Khiri Khan – 93 km

Emerging tired due to spending half the night chasing cockroaches was no surprise. As soon as the light was off, they came out. Sandal in hand, I gave chase, but they gave me a good run for my money. These wee buggers were as fast as lightning.

By morning, I left Bang Saphan with a pack of dogs in hot pursuit and I could’ve sworn an intrusion of cockroaches followed us. Cartoon style, I gripped the handlebars, pushed my elbows out, flattened myself, and gunned it out of Bang Saphan. The entire neighbourhood’s dogs wanted a piece of me that day. Mercifully, a smaller path veered off, and they gave up.

The road hugged the coast nearly the entire way to Prachuap, making it near paradise. Low-key accommodation lined the beach, consisting of bungalows barely visible behind bougainvillaea and frangipanis. The only sign of life was often a lone hammock strung between two palm trees, lazily swinging in the slight breeze. Bliss!

The area was rural; chickens darted across the path, men fished in small dugout canoes, temples, shrines, and the ever-present snakes abounded. I’m sure Thailand has the largest population of snakes in the world. It’s a miracle I didn’t ride over any. The weather looked ominous, but I pushed on, wondering if I could out-cycle the approaching storm. Amazingly enough, I reached my destination without getting soaked. In hindsight, it was a good day as neither the dogs, snakes, nor rain caught me—pity about those darn cockroaches. I swear I’m not making this up.

The following morning dawned bright and sunny, a good morning for a run. The promenade stretched a few kilometres north and south, making it an enjoyable run. Before returning to Maggie's Homestay, I jogged past the pier, a resident troop of monkeys, and the Khao Chong Krachok hill temple. Maggie’s wasn’t only dirt cheap but a pleasant place to stay. As a result, one more day was spent in Prachuap Khiri Khun, especially following rumours of torrential rain.

 

3 June - Prachuap Khiri Khun – Khao Sam Roi National Park - 70 km

Hanging out at Maggie’s Homestay, shooting the breeze with the other travellers, came easily. Most of the people at Maggie’s seemed to do long stints in Thailand. We drank a few beers, and I debated staying for another day, but moving on is what I did.

Thus, I saddled up and pointed the bike toward the nearby National Park. The park had roughly six caves and investigating the Phraya Nakhon Cave sounded fun. En route, I met a family on bikes - mum, dad, and three kids aged one to six years. How cool is that? Mum carried the littlest one in front in a kind of baby seat and the middle one behind her while dad was on a recumbent with the eldest. Needless to say, they were loaded. I tip my hat to them.

An abode along the river lured me in and I set out toward Phraya Nakhon Cave. Getting to the cave involved cycling to the beach, taking a boat around the headland, and a hike up the steep mountain. The cave housed a beautiful temple, but it was already late, and no light came through the cave ceiling.

 

4 June - Khao Sam Roi National Park – Cha-Am – 80 km

I had difficulty dragging myself from under the white linen (a novelty), as I rarely enjoyed the luxury of a room that provided any cover, let alone white linen. Moreover, Thailand’s weather is far too hot and humid, and thus, there is no need for blankets or even a sheet.

With my African music going full blast, I set off through the hills of the National Park. Indecisive about overnighting in Hua Hin, I continued to Cha-Am. At first, I considered giving Cha-Am a miss, but Bangkok was a comfortable two-day ride away. Moreover, I wasn’t happy finding a tick on me, even though getting tick-bite fever was unlikely. Still, I wasn’t too fond of these pests. The reports of rabid dogs in the area were far more worrying.

 

5 June - Cha-Am - Samut Songkhram – 90 km

The stretch between Cha-Am and Samut Songkhram was varied and scenic. Not only was the way dotted with interesting food and drinks stands, but ran past salt farms, tiny fishing villages, temples, and mangrove swamps. Crab fishing was at the order of the day and almost every stall offered cooked crab. Add an excellent road featuring a cycle lane, and the ride was pleasurable.

Albeit blistering hot, I rolled into Samut Songkhram early and headed to Hometown Hostel. The hostel is lovely, offering modern air-con dorms, clean bathrooms, and friendly staff. Once unpacked, I made a beeline for the markets as they were already in full swing.

Samut Songkhram is home to the fascinating railway market that spills onto the railway line. Canopies hurriedly get taken down when a train approaches. However, once the train has passed, the whole shebang goes back into place, and trade continues.

 

6-12 June - Samut Songkhram – Bangkok – 90 km

One of the great things about cycle touring is the opportunity to explore minor and rural country roads. It's astonishing how rural the outskirts of bustling Bangkok can be. Along the many rivers and canals, people live and make a living from the canals, and even the taxi stands are longtail boat jetties. It wasn't unusual to meet people, like a broom and feather duster salesman or an elephant carer, but our conversations were limited.

Everything went smoothly until around midday when I began to feel feverish and my entire body started aching, from my hair follicles to my ankles. I was drained of all my energy but kept going, remembering my motto: I'll reach my destination if I keep moving forward. I honestly didn't think I could finish the last 20 kilometres, and even resorted to counting to keep myself going.

As if feeling this dreadful wasn’t enough, the traffic was horrendous due to the construction of a new Skytrain—what a mess. Once in Bangkok, I went straight to my old go-to guesthouse, only to find they no longer existed. I had no energy to search for alternative accommodation and opted for the next available room, where I collapsed onto the bed, trembling and vomiting everything I had eaten that day. Looking back, I don't know how I managed to cycle the 90 kilometres from Samut Songkhram.

Over the next few days, my condition worsened. Dengue fever is a mosquito-borne illness that currently has no cure. As the name suggests, it is characterised by high fever, severe body aches and pains, headaches, pain behind the eyes, nausea and vomiting. My body ached, and the slightest movement caused shooting pains that made me groan. Eating was impossible, as everything came straight back up. The only available medication treated the symptoms, so I stocked up on painkillers and anti-nausea tablets. It felt like I slept for 40 days and 40 nights, and when I finally woke up, I had lost half my body weight. Despite this, I wouldn't recommend dengue fever as a weight loss programme.

I was always aware that Tania was arriving in a few days, and there I was, unable to get to the corner store, let alone cycle tour Southeast Asia.

 

 

081 Thailand (7.1)

718 Kilometres – 10 Days

14 June - 25 June 2016

 

June 13-15 – Bangkok

On the day Tania arrived, I finally felt better than the previous days. My breakfast stayed down, and I even managed to drink coffee. Tania arrived around midday, impressing me with her exceptional packing skills. She had neatly packed her belongings into her bike box and only one other bag, a testament to her efficiency and preparedness. I straightaway knew she was a winner.

After my bout of dengue fever, I needed to get myself back into cycling shape so we could explore Southeast Asia. In the meantime, we explored Bangkok, walked through pedestrian lanes, ate from street vendors, and enjoyed the general chaos of the city.

 

June 16-17 - Bangkok – Ayutthaya – 83 km

After spending two days exploring Bangkok, I was excited to leave as I was tired of my run-down accommodation. Luckily, we could leave earlier than planned as the weather was pleasant and the traffic not too hectic.

Leaving Bangkok can be challenging, but Tania did an excellent job and we cycled out of the city without any issues. Once on the outskirts of the city, we followed a rural path along a canal. The path took us past vibrant green rice paddies and some enticing-looking eateries. With its stunning ruins, Ayutthaya was the perfect place for us to spend the night. We found a beautiful old wooden schoolhouse with extensive grounds where we could stay.

The following day was spent exploring the ruins and eating our way through the day. Once the capital of the Kingdom of Siam, Ayutthaya was founded around 1350. Having an ideal location between China, India and the Malay Archipelago, Ayutthaya was Asia's trading capital, a testament to its strategic importance. By 1700, it had become the largest city globally, with one million inhabitants. Unfortunately, the city's glory day ended abruptly when it was invaded by Burmese forces in 1767, almost wholly raising the city to the ground. Today, these ruins stand as a poignant reminder of its past, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that we were privileged to explore.

 

18 June - Ayutthaya - Lopburi – 63 km

The weather was moderately overcast at about 30-34 degrees Celsius, making our second day of riding another perfect day. Thailand is littered with fascinating sights and first up was an elephant kraal. The elephants and mahouts were preparing for a day of tourist rides, and the elephants were dressed in their Sunday best. As we cycled past, I couldn't help but feel a sense of admiration and respect for these majestic creatures. It was a reminder of the beauty and diversity of the natural world, a stark contrast to the bustling city we had left behind.

Next up was a bizarre, if not kitsch, temple sporting a humongous dragon or dragon tail surrounding the entire property. A multitude of small paths led to Lopburi, making it an enjoyable day out on the bike. En route, a kind lady flagged us down and handed us a bag of bananas, a gesture of hospitality that warmed our hearts and kept us going through the day. In the countryside, it's virtually impossible to pass villages unnoticed and slacked-jawed locals and nervous-looking kids and dogs observed us from a distance, a reminder of the curiosity and friendliness of the locals.

Our way led past gigantic Buddha statues, incredibly ornate temples, bamboo forests, and, of course, the ever-present carts selling exotic nibbles.

Once in Lopburi, the popular Noom Guest House lured us in and once settled in, we explored the town's many attractions. Lopburi is an ancient town with abundant old ruins that are all within comfortable walking distance. However, today, the old city is occupied by ordinary Thai life and a gang of monkeys. A visit to the Monkey Temple left me in awe of how similar monkey family life is to ours, and I could spend hours observing them.

Tania took to life on a bike like a fish to water, as no sooner was her shirt washed than a line was strung.

 

19 June - Lopburi – Pak Chong – 103 km

In a haze of smoke from breakfast BBQs, we departed Lopburi, a far more substantial town than expected, as the well-visited touristy area was in the old part.

It took forever to clear the city limits. Eventually, our chosen route led along farm tracks, a beautiful stretch through the countryside dotted by tiny hamlets. Sadly, our rural road spat us out on the highway, which shocked us as the traffic was terrible. The way was hilly as we biked over the pass in the midday heat. However, all uphills come to an end. Eventually, we descended into Pak Chong, reaching almost 60 kilometres per hour. Clouds gathered, making it a considerably cooler ride towards the end of the day.

Pak Chong signalled the end of the day's ride, mainly because of the sight of washing machines. I desperately needed them as I hadn't done any laundry since departing Bangkok, and even the stray dogs kept their distance. The dogs appeared to respond well to the word "voetsek" as they retreated to a safe distance if uttered with enough conviction.

 

20 June - Pak Chong – Starwell Bali - 107 km

From our cosy overnight accommodation, the way led past many statue-making areas, each displaying Buddhas in all shapes, sizes, and colours. The air was filled with the sweet scent of exotic fruit as we pedalled past villages, their homes nestled amidst luminous green rice fields. The most unexpected sight was an elephant, patiently waiting for a ride at the bus shelter—truly a unique encounter, only in Thailand!

Once again, a secondary road led us through farmlands, but our path took an unexpected turn into a muddy track. Later, the trail, to our surprise, petered out completely, leaving us with no choice but to backtrack to the main road. This unexpected detour, however, added a sense of adventure to our journey.

Tania and I, not particularly interested in the city of Nakhon Ratchasima, decided to give the town a wide berth. In doing so, we encountered comfortable accommodation consisting of wooden chalets amidst lush greenery.

 

21 June - Starwell Bali – Phimai - 60 km

"Did you see the weather?" Tania asked, frowning, as we emerged to bucketing rain. Mercifully, the weather soon cleared, making it a short and pleasurable ride to Phimai to explore Prasat Hin Phimai, one of Thailand's biggest and most important religious sanctuaries. Our abode of choice was the Phimai Paradise House, a lovely hostel revealing wooden floors and high ceilings.

Once settled, the ruins beckoned us to explore, and our efforts were richly rewarded. Dating back to the 11th–12th century, this town must've been a significant hub in its day. Inscriptions discovered on one of the doors revealed that the city has existed since the ancient Khmer Empire. The most intriguing part was that these temples were constructed a century earlier than Cambodia's strikingly similar Angkor Wat. The town of Phimai stands as one of the furthermost western outposts of the Khmer Empire's holy highway. I found all this incredibly fascinating and was thrilled that we had made the detour.

After inspecting the ruins, we biked to Sai Ngam, a 350-year-old Banyan tree. Returning, we stopped at the night market and found a wide variety of food, including surprisingly delicious ant salad.

 

22 June - Phimai

Phimai was a charming and relaxed village, so we decided to extend our stay for another day. The morning was perfect for a jog, and I enjoyed exploring the area on foot. However, my joy was short-lived, as dengue fever drained me of all my energy and reminded me of the challenges that come with this disease.

The rest of the day was spent catching up on outstanding chores, such as organising and reorganising photos, doing laundry, and making a few long overdue phone calls.

During my walk, I had the pleasure of meeting the town's retired photographer, who was 78 years old and still passionate about photography. He had an impressive collection of antique cameras, and we had a delightful conversation. He insisted I take a photo of him with a self-portrait he had taken 50 years ago in the background. It was a touching moment that reminded me of the rich history and stories that every place holds.

Before I knew it, the day had passed, and it was time to explore the night market.

 

23 June – Phimai – Ban Phai – 119 km

Getting away early, coupled with the cloudy weather, made for relaxed pedalling. Our route took us through the rural areas of northern Thailand, passing by many small villages, each of which had a temple and a herd of buffalo.

We followed a dirt path to a unique community of silk weavers, where we witnessed women weaving silk threads by hand. They didn't speak English, but they were eager to show us their craft. The rest of our day was filled with scenes of women cutting reeds, which we learned were used in weaving sleeping mats.

As we continued our journey, the landscape around us started transforming. Adjacent to the tarmac was a no-man's land that was bustling with activity, with villagers harvesting lotus flowers and seeds. We were surprised to stumble upon bee farming just before Ban Phai. Vendors lined the streets, selling honey and honeycombs. Despite its size, the quaint village of Ban Phai boasted a modern hotel, where we settled in for the night. We wasted no time in heading to the mobile food carts to get our daily fix of noodle soup.

 

24 June - Ban Phai – Khao Suan Kwang – 115 km

It rained heavily all night, but the weather cleared up by early morning, providing a refreshing ride to Khao Suan Kwang. Here we stumbled upon a sign midway that pointed to a King Cobra Village. We were naturally drawn to the village and continued along a beautiful rural path. The farm trails were perfect for an exciting bike adventure. However, my Google Map was set to "walk" directions and led us through minor routes through people's backyards, and at times, the route disappeared entirely. Despite this, I find such rides exhilarating, and that day was no exception.

As we rode, we noticed people drying thin pieces of meat in the sun, known as "Pork One Sun," a traditional Thai recipe. The meat is left to dry for one day until cooked. Some locals invited us to share their lunch, while others tended to their paddy fields and buffalo.

We were excited to visit the King Cobra Village, but it turned out to be a tourist attraction. Unfortunately, the snakes' mouths were tied closed as they were forced to perform. Nevertheless, the ride through the countryside was beautiful.

After almost 20 kilometres, we stumbled upon a "resort" that must have been stunning in its prime but was now in ruins and neglected. Later, a 24-hour establishment caught our attention. Although it usually only rents rooms by the hour, we managed to negotiate a reasonable rate. Tania was shocked by the state of the room, which had only one bed. However, the bed was enormous, and neither of us was very large. Sometimes you have to make do with what you have.

 

25 June – Khao Suan Kwang – Udong Thani - 68 km

Our ride to Udong Thani was short and effortless, and it was a typical cycle-touring day. Stopping to take a picture, a watermelon vendor surprised us with an already-cut watermelon. It was delicious, and the lady refused to accept any money. We felt for these generous locals, so we invested in 3-in-1 coffee sachets, which we could give in return. Of course, it’s not enough, but still, it’s the thought that counts.

Scenery-wise, the day was lovely; butterflies darted around as we peddled past substantial cassava plantations and sugarcane fields. En route, we visited one of the many monasteries, took a few pictures, and had a chat with the monks. The following stop was a durian vendor, where Tania sampled Thailand's most famous (or infamous) fruit.

Thai ladies fished in large ponds alongside the way, using earthworms as bait, but they never caught anything; maybe the fish didn't like the earthworms. Finally, Tania joined them but was equally unsuccessful.

Afterwards, we made our way towards the big city of Udon Thani, passing more monasteries and lakes featuring fishing platforms that looked a tad more promising than the ponds. We had one final stop to buy sticky rice cooked in segments of bamboo tubes. The bamboo tubes are filled with rice and beans in coconut milk and plugged using coconut husk wrapped in a banana leaf to keep in the steam. In Thailand, this dish is called kao lam, but in Malaysia, it's known as lemang.

In Udon Thani, the budget King's Hotel had a massive double room with an en suite. I had business to attend to, and Tania wanted to stock up on stuff unavailable in Laos.

 

26 June – Udon Thani, Thailand – Vientiane, Laos – 80 km

"I'm bursting with excitement to go to Laos! I can't get the smile off my face," Tania exclaimed, her voice filled with anticipation, as we cycled past the traditional smoky breakfast BBQ stands, the aroma of grilled meat and spices wafting through the air. We were so eager to reach Laos that we only paused once to quench our thirst with refreshing coconut juice, the sweet liquid cooling our throats, as we made our way to the Thailand-Laos border control point.

Once at immigration, a $30 visa allowed entry into the country. Reaching Laos meant cycling across the mighty Mekong River via the Friendship Bridge. It soon became apparent how different things could be on the opposite side of a border, a reminder of the complex geopolitical dynamics that shape our world.

The French influence from yesteryear was still visible, especially in the architecture. Baguettes were in abundance, and the smell of coffee, a legacy of French colonialism, permeated the air, evoking a sense of nostalgia for a time long past. I withdrew 1,500,000 Laos kip, the local currency, which stretched my wallet to nearly breaking point.

078 & 079 CYCLE TOURING SINGAPORE (2) & MALAYSIA (3)

 

SINGAPORE (2) & MALAYSIA (3)
1 030 Kilometres – 36 Days
13 April – 19 April 2016

MAP

 PHOTOS

Singapore (2)

40 Kilometres – 6 Days

 

13 April 2016 – Cape Town, South Africa – Singapore (by plane)

Even though I didn't manage to cross everything off my to-do list, it was finally time to hit the road again. It wasn't until mid-April that I bid farewell to beautiful Cape Town and embarked on a long flight to Singapore with layovers in Dubai and Colombo, Sri Lanka.

My ultimate destination was Bangkok, where I had an exciting plan to meet up with my friend, Tania, for a thrilling two-month cycling adventure across Asia. The goal was to pedal our way through Southeast Asia from Bangkok, through Laos and Cambodia, and back to Bangkok. I've always felt that Asia is the perfect destination for beginner cycle tourists – with easy access to food and accommodation and relatively gentle terrain.

The flight wasn’t too bad as long-haul flights go; except I had a six-hour layover in Colombo. Moreover, it happened to be the Tamil New Year, a public holiday in Sri Lanka. As a result, heaps of free fruit, tea, coconut milk and rice cakes were offered. The rice cakes were lovely, especially since they were served with a potent chilli paste.

 

14 April - Singapore

As the wheels of the plane touched down on the tarmac in Singapore, I couldn't help but feel a jolt of excitement at the thought of immersing myself in a whole new world. Stepping into the bustling airport, I was surrounded by a vibrant mix of cultures and nationalities, each adding its own unique flavour to the atmosphere.

 

After grabbing some local currency, I made a beeline for a SIM card and then hailed a taxi to whisk me away to Tree in Lodge Hostel, a gem known for its warm welcome to cyclists like me.

Upon arrival, the hostel owner, SK, greeted me with a genuine smile, despite the late hour. It turns out he's a dedicated cyclist who once pedalled all the way from Finland to Singapore. He even went out of his way to help me lug my bike and gear inside. His kindness instantly made me feel at home in this unfamiliar, yet fascinating, land.

 

15 April

The next morning, I emerged from my cosy hostel room well past midday. I set off through the immaculate streets and orderly suburbs of Singapore, making my way to vibrant Chinatown.

The place was a feast for the senses, with enticing aromas wafting from street food stalls and an array of intriguing, dried goods on display - from seahorses to flying lizards. Among the gleaming skyscrapers, the old Chinese shophouses stood proudly, showcasing their vibrant colours and intricate designs.

After indulging in a delightful feast of pau and dim sum, I returned to the hostel to tackle the task of assembling my bike. With each piece coming together, I couldn't help but feel a sense of anticipation for the adventure ahead. Cycling north was top of the agenda, and I couldn’t wait to get going.

 

16 April

I had such an eventful day today! My roommate surprised me with news of a free tour of the Parliament House, and I jumped at the chance. After hastily downing a coffee, I set off for a day filled with history, stunning architecture, and mouth-watering food. As I strolled along the Singapore River, I passed by intriguing art displays, watched tourists savouring meals at riverside restaurants, and observed busy Singaporeans hurrying to and from work.

Later, I headed back to the hostel to grab my tripod for some night-time photography, but my plans took an unexpected turn when two cyclists showed up, and we ended up spending the evening chatting over a few beers. It turned into a lively and social night without me even leaving the hostel!

 

17-18 April

I ended up staying there for two extra days, and it was totally worth it! First off, I was on the hunt for a new laptop because mine was on the fritz, but I ended up deciding against it.

Then, at sunset, I took a leisurely stroll to the waterfront and was lucky enough to catch a glimpse of a spectacular laser show. I attempted to capture the moment with some impromptu hand-held shots, but I couldn't help but wish I had brought my tripod along for the experience. It's always the way, isn't it?

 

19 April - Singapore – Johor Bahru, Malaysia - 40 km

As the sun rose, I found myself on the road to the Woodlands checkpoint, where I met up with SK for a refreshing cold drink. Shortly after, I crossed the border into Malaysia at the bustling and efficient Woodlands checkpoint. Malaysia was starting to feel like a second home to me.

Even though it was still early, I headed to Johor Bahru to experience all this new country had to offer - finding an ATM, getting a local SIM card, and soaking in the atmosphere.

Johor Bahru was transforming rapidly, evolving from a gritty border town to a vibrant and modern city. Sadly, the charming old neighbourhoods were giving way to shiny new malls and shopping centres, but I managed to find a room in an area where traditional eateries and local culture still thrived. I enjoyed a delicious curry and rice while observing toothless men engaged in board games, sipping tea or Tiger beer. The flavours of the curry reminded me why I loved Malaysian cuisine so much. It was a perfect way to end the day.

 

 

079 Malaysia (3)

990 Kilometres – 30 Days

20 April – 19 May 2016

 

20 April – Johor Bahru – Pontian Kecil – 60 km

My windowless room made for sleeping late, and the time was thus past 9h00 before emerging. The humid weather made the clothes cling to my sweat-soaked body long before getting on the bike.

Initially, I planned to follow a smaller path along the coast but, to my surprise, found that the path was now a new highway, clearly indicating Malaysia's rapid development. This left me with little other option but to continue along the highway until I found a minor road. Despite this, the highway made for comfortable riding to Pontian Kecil, where an inexpensive hotel beckoned me to stay.

After checking in, a short stroll led me to a supermarket to buy food and other bits and bobs. However, the scorching heat made me scurry back to the coolness of my air-conditioned room. April is one of Malaysia's hottest months, and I could feel its intensity even indoors.

 

21 April - Pontian Kecil – Batu Pahat – 70 km

It must have been a scorching day as a kind lady on a motorbike pulled up beside me and offered me an ice-cold "100-Plus" sports drink. Her gesture was greatly appreciated, and I eagerly gulped it down. Feeling refreshed and grateful, I continued, but the midday heat remained unforgiving.

Later, a Malay man stopped and offered me a bottle of water. He also offered to give me a ride to Batu Pahat. He must have thought I was a bit crazy for biking in the heat, but he wished me well and continued.

The Warmshowers host I contacted the previous night never responded, and the Garden Hotel had to do for the night. Still, it was a good day, and the kindness of strangers reminded me of the good in the world.

 

22-23 April - Batu Phat – Malacca – 100 km

My digs included breakfast, which came as a surprise. Then, following a decent plate of fried rice, the way led north to Malacca past plenty of stands to quench my thirst. Despite the scorching weather I soldiered onwards and eventually arrived at bustling Malacca.

Malacca was home to Ringo’s Foyer Guest House and Warmshower host, Howard. The place was a cool hostel where cycle tourists could overnight on the roof terrace free of charge.

The next morning, a jog along the river revealed an entirely new perspective of Malacca. The sweltering weather made me appreciate my rooftop spot, as it offered a slight breeze.

 

24 April - Malacca – Lukut - 75 km

The high humidity left me drenched before even getting underway. However, the day offered pleasant coastal riding. A humble stand provided breakfast at a fraction of the price in touristy Malacca. One could tell the day was unusually hot as even Muslim ladies were swimming – burka and all.

Seeing all those ladies in their wet burkas must’ve been a tad too much for this conservative society, and no sooner had my path left the coast than I came across a man masturbating by the roadside.

The oppressing heat made me opt for a pricey homestay, if only for the powerful air-con.

 

25 April - Lukut – Puchong – 80 km

My early departure was due to the heat and I headed towards Peter's place in Puchong, with the hope of meeting him and his family. The day turned out to be comfortable riding, with the route taking me partly through palm oil plantations and partly along a busy road that went past the Malaysian Grand Prix circuit and airport.

Upon reaching Peter's place, I was greeted with a cold beer and a warm pie - what a lovely treat.

 

26 April - 1 May – Puchong

Peter arranged for me to stay in an apartment as the flatlet he usually used for Warmshowers guests was already occupied. Meanwhile, I made plans to fly to India to retrieve the package I had sent from there three months earlier. Unfortunately, the parcel had never left Kochi Post Office, so I had to go there myself. The box contained all of my “valuable” items, such as my sleeping bag, tent, and stove, so it was worth the effort to retrieve it.

Flight prices varied daily, and I was able to find the best-priced option for five days later, so I had a few days to relax. I spent most of my time lounging about, going for a morning jog, and strolling to the shops to buy food.

 

2 May – Puchong, Malaysia – Kochi, India

Peter kindly drove me to the airport at the ungodly hour of 3:00 a.m. as my flight was scheduled to depart at 6:00 a.m. The flight was uneventful and lasted for 4 hours. We arrived in Kochi, India at 7:00 a.m.

I stayed at Kevin's Homestay for the next few days as I searched for my parcel, which was found intact at the post office. The reason for the parcel not being delivered was listed as two-fold. Firstly, an item contained "batteries" which may have referred to the solar panel that couldn't store energy. Secondly, an item contained "powder". Could it have been the instant noodles? Since the parcel was returned for security reasons, the postage was not refunded. Finally, with all my goodies safely in my possession, I headed straight to my favourite steamed momo restaurant.

It was May and the oppressive heat made Kochi appear quite desolate. All the tourists had left and even the long-term tenants had departed in search of cooler climates. When someone asked why I was still there, it became clear that the tourist season had long been over. The fishing boats in the port seemed abandoned, and the fishermen were lethargically watching flies crawl over their meagre catch. The colourful clothes on display looked faded as they slowly flapped in the breeze. Despite the heat and humidity, India remained my favourite place to linger. Maybe it’s the madness, the contrast, the craziness of everything.

While observing the incredible amount of plastic pollution, I saw someone knitting covers for the tree branches nearby. I thought to myself, “This is indeed incredible India.”

 

3-4 May - Kochi

I had a free day in Kochi, which allowed me to explore the city and all it had to offer. I also realised that carrying a large box was impractical, so I purchased a suitcase instead.

Afterwards, I went to the washing area, where laundry was still done by hand in large concrete tubs. The clothing was then wrung out and hung on a twisted rope line. The clothesline, made of coconut husk, isn’t simply green but is considered one of the strongest. The line is twisted, and corners of the laundry are slipped into the twists, making pegs unnecessary. How clever?

Finally, all the items were neatly ironed using old-fashioned cast-iron irons filled with coals. It's amazing how nothing ever gets lost in India; it's just one of the country's countless mysteries. Again, the contrast in India left me speechless.

My return flight to Malaysia departed at 23h30 and left me with a considerable amount of time to kill. At 80 rupees, the airport bus made more sense than a 1,200 rupees taxi ride. But, being India, not everything went according to plan. Soon after departing, all were refunded their 80 rupees and told the bus was caput. Teaming up with Bianca from Switzerland, we hailed a tuk-tuk, and off we went in our “air-con Ferrari” in bumper-to-bumper traffic and made it just in time to catch our 23h30 flight. There’s never a dull moment in India.

 

5 May – Kochi – India - Puchong, Malaysia

AirAsia is a budget airline, and I mean BUDGET. They didn’t even offer a glass of water; the fact that the toilets were free was a surprise. Still, I wasn’t complaining - it was simply fascinating. We landed smoothly, and the airport train took me to Putrajaya Central, where Peter waited. Following a few winks, I slowly gathered my stuff, ready to resume my quest. That evening, a spectacular storm broke over Puchong, complete with dramatic lightning.

 

6 May - Puchong

The previous night’s storm made for a fresh and perfect morning jog. I jogged past municipal workers mowing lawns, leaving the smell of freshly cut grass in their wake. Past the lake and the new MRT still under construction, past the lady selling fried snacks, and I enjoyed the familiarity of what has become my morning jog. My last day in Puchong was spent doing laundry and packing my belongings, and I suddenly found I had a whole bunch of extra stuff.

 

7 May - Puchong - Kuala Selangor – 73 km

I had breakfast in the company of Peter and Alice and knew I would miss them terribly. Still, being on the bicycle and biking along rural paths was good. Towards the end of the day, the Melawati Ria Hotel came into view. At the reception, Saras, a teacher from Puchong, promptly invited me to join them on a firefly trip. We boarded a tiny rowboat in bucketing rain and surprisingly had good sightings of fireflies.

 

8 May - Kuala Selangor

With a fair amount to see in Selangor, I donned my running shoes and headed out the door, first toward the nearby small Nature Park. Unfortunately, the area wasn’t for the fainthearted, mosquito-wise, and I had to step up the pace a tad and make my way out of the park with swarms of eager mosquitos in hot pursuit.

Once outside the park, I dragged my then weary body up Bukit Malawati, a small hill where once stood a fort, captured by the Dutch in 1867 and recaptured by the Sultan in 1873. The only remains were part of a retaining wall, a few cannons, a poisoned well, a 200-year-old Angsana tree, and a bedrock believed to be used for beheading traitors but highly likely utilised by the Sultan as a lookout over his stronghold.

Although the outing was more sightseeing than running, it remained fascinating.

 

9 May - Kuala Selangor - Melintang - 75 km

Early morning, the tarmac was already baking in the sun. Still, I filled my water bottles and searched for rural routes, of which there were plenty. These small secondary paths through palm plantations were quiet, with practically no traffic, only the occasional small kampung and playful monkeys darting across the way.

Interestingly, these Selangor silvered langurs are born sporting orange fur, while the adults are black. The fur doesn’t change colour until three to five months after birth. The young are cared for by females communally and aren’t weaned until 18 months, even though the biological mother stops lactating after 12 months. How fascinating?

Pantai Redang was home to a wishing tree and sported branches entangled by red ribbons. One could buy the ribbons, knotted both ends with coins, and throw them into the tree to make a wish. I threw one lying on the ground and wondered if it would have the same effect.

My chosen path continued across countless rivers, crammed with fishing boats, past ornate Hindu temples and small villages until reaching Melintang. Almost 16h00, the usual food carts were already in full swing. The smells drifting across from these stalls were enough to make me call it a day.

 

10 May - Melintang – Setiawan – 60 km

The stretch between Melintang and Setiawan turned out uneventful as it didn’t offer any rural paths. Under normal circumstances, I wouldn’t have stopped in Setiawan had it not been for me leaving my laptop charger behind. To my shock and horror, I learned that no charger was available for my brand-new laptop. How do they launch a new laptop without the necessary support? All my ranting and raving didn’t make one iota of difference, and certainly wouldn’t make one fall out of the sky.

Contacting the Kuala Selangor hotel to inquire about the charger was a priority, but the answer was negative. A subsequent phone call revealed that the charger was indeed located and a happy dance marked the expected happy ending. Unfortunately, the saga continued as no direct bus ran to Kuala Selangor. The sole bus option ran Setiawan—Kuala Lumper—Klang—Kuala Selangor, a two-day overnight journey returning the same way. Phew, it's best to sleep on it.

 

11 May - Setiawan

Packing a small bag of necessary items, I made my way out the door, mentally prepared for a long bus ride. Midway, I opted for a costly taxi ride. The fee was nearly the laptop's price at 500 Malaysian ringgit (approximately $125). But, on the positive side, I would be back the same day. There were probably better options, but the deed was done. In the process, I became the proud owner of the costliest laptop charger in Malaysia.

 

12 May - Setiawan – Taiping - 90 km

“How old are you?” and “You must be very strong” are typical remarks in this part of the world. My usual reply is that I’m not doing anything remarkable, seeing there are women who give birth naturally. That is strong and brave! I’m simply pedalling a bicycle—not pushing a baby out of my vagina! There is no comparison!

Taiping made for a short cycling day, but I had no desire to push on to Panang, an additional 80 kilometres down the drag. During the day, I met two Belgian cyclists nearing the end of their year-long cycle journey from Belgium to Singapore. They looked fit, lean, and tanned—but mostly happy. Though they were looking forward to seeing their children and grandchildren, I was sure they would miss their life on the road. We chatted for a while before continuing our separate ways.

I pulled into Taiping, thinking I might give the zoo at night one more try, this time with a tripod in hand, but the weather came in and it started raining, and nothing came of my nightly visit to the zoo.

 

13-17 May - Taiping – Penang - 98 km

It was late morning before biking out of Taiping, as I didn’t fall asleep until the early morning hours. Fortunately, the day was overcast, making riding to Penang effortless. Not that I wasn’t sweating buckets, but at least it wasn’t under the scorching sun.

Penang was meant to be a quick in-and-out to arrange a Thailand visa. But being Friday meant waiting until Monday to hand in the passport, and hopefully receiving it the following morning, making it Wednesday before resuming my ride. In the meantime, a budget room at the Love Lane Inn was as bare-bones as they came, providing only a mattress on the floor. The price, however, reflected the lack of amenities.

Soon, the famous street food got underway, and I rushed to my favourite food stand and gulped down a good dose of exotic eats. Then, after making a copy of the passport (needed for the visa application), I returned to my mattress on the floor.

In the morning, I donned running shoes and set off to discover the area on foot. First, I went to the water’s edge, then along the promenade, past the old fort and heaps of old colonial buildings, some renovated and others still waiting in line.

One could hardly call it “running” as I merely chugged along grimacing, gasping for air, arms flailing wildly. Taking all that effort, I should’ve moved at quite a pace but scarcely moved at all. It’s extraordinary how others can make jogging look so comfortable. Drenched in sweat, I returned to my mattress and found no water in the shower due to a broken pipe. The lack of amenities made me load up and move around the corner to another and considerably better joint at the same price. At least I had a bed, bedside table, writing table, two chairs, and a “shower inside”, but the toilet was still outside. LOL.

Following my morning run, I met up with Rickee Lee, a native of Penang and fellow cycle tourer. We had breakfast together and jabbered on about all kinds of things. It’s incredible — the awesome people one meets when travelling by bike.

The following day, a bus took me to the Snake Temple along the town's outskirts. The temple is quite old and was constructed in 1850 by a Buddhist monk. Surprisingly, the snakes weren’t in cages but slithered at random. One had to tread carefully, as pit vipers were everywhere. After a few pictures, I made a hasty retreat.

Finally, Tuesday arrived, and it was time to collect the passport containing a new two-month Thailand visa. The reason for the two-month visa was that I planned on meeting Tania in Bangkok around mid-June for a three-month cycle ride in Asia.

 

18 May - Penang – Alor Setar - 103 km

I just about had enough of the negativity in Southeast Asia. If one more person told me I was too old to cycle, I thought I was going to fucking punch them in the face. I look old, but Christ, I wasn’t 100 years old. All the “How old ARE you?” said with a lifting of the eyebrows was getting on my droopy tits. I guessed I could’ve donned a burka. One would swear the right to ride a bicycle was strictly reserved for the under 25s. Rant over.

I didn’t get underway until 9h00, but the day offered pleasurable biking and pleasant weather, 30–33°C. My chosen route followed the main road past a multitude of eateries selling interesting snacks and drinks. The area further revealed huge, high-volume buildings used for farming swiftlet nests. These edible nests are made of solidified saliva and used in soups, an immensely popular, albeit expensive, dish.

The rainy season was fast approaching, and paddy fields were being prepared for planting. This labour-intensive job made me appreciate every grain. I reached Alor Setar (Alor Star) in good time and the Comfort Hotel was easily the most affordable in town. There was no “bathroom inside” but the bicycle could be inside, and the communal bathrooms were sparkling clean. The conveniently located night market behind the hotel provided easy pickings.

 

19 May - Alor Setar, Malaysia – Hat Yai, Thailand - 106 km

There wasn’t a single “How old ARE you?” on this day. I guessed my aura clearly stated, “Don’t even think about it!”. The 60 kilometres to the border was uneventful, and the crossing into Thailand was easy-peasy.

I followed the usual SIM card and ATM routine before a 57-kilometre cycle ride spat me out in Hat Yai. The area around the railway station came with a plethora of inexpensive digs. Park Hotel turned out quite reasonable at 350 Thai baht (app. $10) for a sizable room sporting wi-fi and a bathroom.