179 Cycle Touring Georgia (2)

 

179 Cycle Touring Georgia (2)

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23 August – 8 September 2025
15 Days – 448 Kilometres

 

 

23-24 August - Pattaya, Thailand – Tbilisi, Georgia

After a few whirlwind days in Thailand, I finally touched down in the ancient caravan town of Tbilisi, Georgia. One thing is glaringly clear—much has changed since my first visit in May 2008!

This transcontinental country, with its location at the intersection of Eastern Europe and Western Asia, has long served as a significant trade route between Asia and Europe. Its strategic location not only enriches its culture but also tells tales of a turbulent history, marked by the rise and fall of empires and bouts of conflict.

Even though I declared I’m venturing into a different continent, it feels like Asia still has a hold on me! I anticipate lingering in this vibrant region for at least the next month or two, as there’s a treasure trove of experiences waiting to be explored.

But, all I craved was sleep. Between the two back-to-back four-hour flights and a gruelling seven-hour layover in Mumbai, I barely closed my eyes. Airports, no matter how much they try to lure you in with comfort and charm, will forever remain spaces where dreams go to die. Fortunately, my humble abode in Tbilisi turned out to be a real gem, where I felt as if I had been transported back in time.

 

25 August - Tbilisi

I woke up feeling refreshed, as if I’d been cocooned in a deep slumber, only to realise that the clock was reading 5:30 a.m. The three-hour time difference between Southeast Asia and the Caucasus had worked in my favour! Eager to embrace the day, I brewed a steaming cup of coffee that filled the air with its rich aroma. Soon, I stepped into the vibrant streets of Tbilisi, eager to uncover the secrets and stories this enchanting city has to offer. The morning light danced off the buildings, and I could feel the pulse of the city beckoning me to explore!

Tbilisi is an old city established in the fifth century, and its complex history is reflected in its buildings. Wandering through the old town, I was transported back to my memories from 17 years ago. The cobbled streets twisted and turned, revealing crumbling old buildings that stood defiantly, held together by timber supports and stories untold. Clotheslines sagged overhead, swaying gently in the breeze, creating a charming patchwork against the backdrop of faded facades.

Amidst this historical charm, the modern pulse of Tbilisi is palpable. A massive renovation project is underway to rescue the old buildings. Still, it’s heartwarming to see elderly ladies clad in black, making their way to the market with a slow shuffle, engaged in quiet conversations with neighbours. Their presence feels like a delightful echo from another time, a reminder that in some corners of the world, life moves at its own, unhurried rhythm.

One of the intriguing aspects of Georgian culture is the perceived aloofness of its people. I often find that I am greeted with serious expressions, as smiles and casual conversation tend to be reserved for acquaintances. Direct interaction with strangers is less common unless there is a specific reason for it, and smiling is not a customary gesture towards people you don’t know. I recognise that this behaviour is not indicative of coldness or rudeness; rather, it reflects different social norms. Engaging in light banter with strangers can be viewed as insincere, which I believe is a remnant of the Soviet era when public displays of excessive cheerfulness were discouraged. It provides a fascinating glimpse into their society.

At the heart of Georgian food culture lies khachapuri, a beloved dish that embodies the essence of Georgian comfort food. Picture a warm bread boat, its crust perfectly crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, filled to the brim with a melty mixture of local cheeses and topped with a luscious egg that blends seamlessly into the warm cheese.

Today, I enjoyed Penovani khachapuri, a variant that takes it up a notch with its flaky, layered pastry that envelops the cheese filling. The delicate outer crunch perfectly contrasts with the rich, gooey cheese within, making every mouthful a delightful treat.

Another staple of Georgian cuisine is khinkali, which are delightful dumplings that come with various fillings. Whether it's filled with savoury seasoned meat, creamy cheese, earthy mushrooms, or hearty potatoes, each dumpling is a little packet of joy.

Today's lunch was pelmeni in a pot. The clay pot was filled with dumplings, swimming in a rich, fragrant broth that was mixed with tangy sour cream. The pot was then covered with a delicate layer of dough and baked to golden perfection, creating a warm and comforting dish.

 

27 August – Tbilisi – Mtskheta - 30 Km

I finally managed to tear myself away from the embrace of Tbilisi, a city that had stolen my heart. Initially, I was filled with trepidation about escaping the bustling chaos, heavy traffic, steep hills, and the labyrinthine cobbled streets. However, my worries melted away as I set off at the crack of dawn—well, for me, that meant getting on the road just after eight! I raced downhill toward the Mtkvari River and was delighted to find the streets blissfully quiet. It turns out that in Tbilisi, shops don’t really open until well past nine, with many not opening until noon.

Not long into my ride, disaster struck—I lost a screw from my front luggage rack! I suspected the shop hadn’t tightened all the screws as they should have. Thankfully, a few cable ties came to my rescue, but I was on a mission to find a more permanent solution.

As I pedalled, I was continually awestruck by the landscapes: the distant misty mountains, wooded ravines, waterfalls and ancient castles perched high on hills made it look almost medieval. The Jvari Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage site, stood majestically atop a rocky cliff. According to legend, a cross was placed on that very spot in the early fourth century. However, the stunning structure we see now was built between 585 and 605 AD, setting the stage for Georgian and Armenian ecclesiastical architecture.

Then, just around the bend, my heart skipped a beat as I caught sight of Mtskheta, the ancient capital. This remarkable village, founded in the fifth century and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, seemed almost surreal. Once a fortified city and the heart of the ancient Kingdom of Iberia, it unfolded before my eyes like a storybook.

As I ambled through the ancient city, I found myself standing before the iconic Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, built between 1010 and 1129. After settling into a guesthouse, the owner generously offered to drive me to the breathtaking Jvari Monastery, and I eagerly accepted the opportunity.

Upon my return, I leisurely explored the enchanting village, soaking in its unique charm, and later enjoyed a refreshing beer in my tiny courtyard, which was overflowing with pomegranate trees. This, I thought to myself, is what a good day of cycle touring is all about.

 

28 August – Mtskheta – Uplistikhe -57km

Georgian is the official language of Georgia and is spoken by 90% of the population. It is written in Mkhedruli, and the oldest surviving literary text dates back to the fifth century AD and is found at the Jvari monastery. What’s fascinating is that Georgian is a linguistic island—and not related to Indo-European, Turkic, or Semitic languages as it evolved independently for millennia. For me to pick up any words, the chances are almost zero.

This morning, I drank my coffee in my little pomegranate garden and only finished at around 9:30 a.m., a more reasonable time for me. I set off on the hilly road, which I now call the road to nowhere, as I have no idea where I want to go. Still, the scenery was spectacular with misty valleys hiding ancient fortresses and monasteries. I could also that summer was coming to an end, as the crops were being harvested. Another lovely surprise was meeting another cycle tourer. Alex was heading in the opposite direction and was nearing the end of his four-month cycling holiday, which started in Germany.

As my route descended to the Kyra River, I spotted something interesting carved into the mountain and decided to investigate. Uplistikhe turned out to be one of Georgia’s most extraordinary archaeological sites. The Uplistsikhe Cave Complex, dating back to the second millennium BCE, is one of the oldest urban settlements in Georgia, with traces of habitation dating back to the Bronze Age. I understand it flourished as a pagan religious centre before Christianity took hold in the region in the fourth century CE.

The town is carved directly into rock and features temples, dwellings, tunnels, and streets. Historically, the northern approach to Uplistikhe was carved into rock with walls up to 10 meters high, offering natural defence. It seems I'm tracing the footsteps of millennia of travellers, priests and traders.

I was so taken with this discovery that I took a room in a typical Georgian timber home with a vine-covered pergola. What a lovely way to spend the end of the day. My host prepared a massive bowl of khinkali (dumplings), accompanied by watermelon and a Georgian beer to wash it all down.

 

29 August - Uplistikhe – Surami – 75 km

Just 12 kilometres from my overnight stop was Gori, the birthplace of Joseph Stalin. Once a vibrant figure on a grand pedestal, his statue has been removed from the town square, and now resides in the local museum. During my visit, I was fortunate enough to cross paths with two Chinese ladies accompanied by an English-speaking guide, who graciously invited me to tag along.

I quickly realised that having a guide is essential for navigating the depths of Stalin's complex history. Far from trying to sugarcoat his life, our guide provided us with meticulously researched facts that painted a vivid, if unsettling, portrait of the past. As we delved into Stalin's story, I was taken aback by the striking parallels between his behaviour and some confident world leaders today. It was a chilling reminder of how history can echo into the present, leaving me both fascinated and uneasy as I pondered its implications.

As I was right there, I had to visit the Gori fortress. As I stood beneath the imposing silhouette of the Fortress, perched high on a rocky hill overlooking the city of Gori, I felt privileged to walk its ancient stairs. Its storied past first surfaces in records from the 13th century. Still, whispers of an even older lineage echo through the ages, with archaeological evidence suggesting the site was fortified as far back as the final centuries BCE.

By the time I left Gori, it was already well past midday, but I continued cycling to the small village of Surami, which had a few guesthouses. The one I picked was a lovely surprise as it had a charming veranda, a kitchen and a spacious bedroom.

 

30 August – Surami – Kutaisi - 93 km

One thing I can guarantee is that Georgia isn’t flat—it’s a landscape bursting with surprises! As I pedalled toward Turkey, the hilly road ultimately led me to the entrance of the freeway. A sign flashed “prohibited,” but to my astonishment, the road workers waved me through. Suddenly, I found myself gliding along a brand-new freeway, navigating through a series of tunnels that turned a strenuous ride into a breeze. Admittedly, the tunnels were a bit nerve-wracking—but before I knew it, I emerged triumphantly on the other side of the Rikoti Pass.

Upon arriving in Kutaisi, I decided to stray from the usual path. I booked a night at the Friends Hostel instead of a traditional guesthouse, drawn in by its prime location near the iconic Bagrati Cathedral. Little did I realise that reaching the hostel would require conquering an incredibly steep cobbled road. I heaved and wheezed my way up, questioning my sanity as I struggled to drag my bike uphill. But the hostel was budget-friendly, and I pushed through, telling myself that surely, I’d be the only traveller crazy enough to visit Kutaisi.

 

To my delightful surprise, I arrived at a buzzing, fully booked hostel brimming with fellow adventurers from around the globe, including a fascinating South African artist now living in Russia.

Once settled in, I took full advantage of the hostel’s amenities, tackling my long-overdue laundry while exchanging tales with the other guests. Each conversation was like finding a piece of a puzzle, painting a vivid picture of cultures and experiences from afar. It was the kind of serendipity that made my journey all the more memorable!

 

31 August - Kutaisi

I extended my stay at Friends Hostel for one more night and set out early, eager to explore Tskaltubo—a town that feels like a time capsule of history, healing, and architectural ambition. As I pedalled through the crisp morning air, I couldn’t help but wonder about the stories hidden in this fascinating place.

Tskaltubo’s history stretches back to the enigmatic seventh to ninth centuries, when the first mentions of its natural springs appeared, hinting at its potential as a healing haven. Fast forward to the 12th and 13th centuries, and Tskaltubo was already carving out a reputation for itself as a wellness destination, celebrated for its radon-carbonate mineral waters. By 1920, it had officially transformed into a balneological resort, specialising in treatments for various ailments, from circulatory issues to skin conditions.

Then came the Soviet era, and by 1953 Tskaltubo had achieved town status, blossoming into a premier spa destination that drew a staggering 125,000 visitors each year. It was meticulously designed as a scientifically planned resort, showcasing 22 sanatoriums and nine bathhouses arranged in an amphitheatre-like formation amidst verdant landscapes. Each building was an artistic testament to style, seamlessly blending neoclassical and Stalinist influences in a captivating display of architectural beauty.

However, the fall of the USSR marked a poignant decline for Tskaltubo. Many of its once-thriving sanatoriums were left abandoned or repurposed to accommodate people displaced by conflict. Yet, hope flickered anew in 2022 when the Georgian government began auctioning off these properties, reigniting interest in the town's restoration and untapped potential.

As I wandered through Tskaltubo, I was struck by the juxtaposition of its splendid yet neglected buildings. Each step was an adventure; I couldn’t resist the thrill of climbing the crumbling walls to sneak a peek inside these architectural relics. The experience was exhilarating and somewhat scary as I wandered through the husks of a once-bustling spa town, letting my imagination roam through its storied past.

 

1 September – Kutaisi

My day in Kutaisi was mainly spent at the hostel chatting with other travellers and wandering around old Kutaisi. I stopped at a bike shop to fit a new screw to the front luggage rack. I also bought an odometer, a task that took the best part of the morning, as it appeared that service here is as slow as molasses.

 

2 September – Kutaisi

Just outside Kutaisi, I discover the breathtaking beauty of Prometheus Cave, one of Georgia’s most captivating natural marvels! Nestled within the remarkable Sataphlia-Tskaltubo karst massif, this cave system stretches over 11 kilometres. While only 1.8 kilometres are open to visitors, every step offers a breath-taking sight. As I wandered through the six stunning caverns, I was mesmerised by the extraordinary formations that adorn the walls—nature's artistry in the form of glittering stalactites, towering stalagmites, delicate helictites, and intricate needle-like anthodites that seem almost otherworldly. Dating back an impressive 60 to 70 million years, Prometheus Cave is not just a sight to behold, it’s a treasure trove of history! Fossils of ancient cave bears, starfish, and molluscs from the Cretaceous period have been discovered within its depths, offering a glimpse into a time long gone.

 

3 September – Kutaisi – Ureki – 100 km

I awoke feeling refreshed in the spacious tent at the hostel, the gentle sound of raindrops on the fabric lulling me into a cosy morning. As I lay there, I contemplated staying another day in this welcoming haven filled with fellow travellers, but the allure of the open road beckoned. With a final wave to the friendly faces at the hostel, I set off, pedalling out of the captivating city of Kutaisi.

The drizzle accompanied me for most of the morning, but the warmth in the air kept my spirits high. As I cycled, the scenery unfolded like a vibrant painting—lush, green landscapes spilling into charming hamlets where it felt like time had paused. Every turn revealed a new slice of rural life, and I couldn’t help but feel a sense of wonder at the beauty surrounding me.

However, the journey wasn’t without its challenges. Road closures added to the chaos of the narrow road, causing an unexpected rush of traffic. It was far from a leisurely ride, but every pedal stroke brought me closer to the majestic shores of the Black Sea.

Finally, I arrived at my destination—the inviting holiday village of Ureki. The vibrant atmosphere buzzed with the energy of vacationers, yet I managed to find a snug, reasonably priced room that offered a slice of tranquillity amidst the hustle.

 

4 September – Ureki – Batuni – 63 km

My ride to Batumi, Georgia's second-largest city and sole harbour, was an enjoyable 60-kilometre bike ride. The route took me along the shores of the breath-taking Black Sea, where the tiny waves lapped against the rugged, stony beaches. The scenery was so captivating that I lost track of time, wholly caught up in the ride. I zoomed past scenic vistas and fresh sea breezes, forgetting to take breaks or even sip some water. In hindsight, I realised that was a bit stupid! But every pedal stroke felt like an adventure in this stunning landscape.

Once in Batumi, I headed towards the Surf Hostel (a strange name for a place where there are no waves) as it was inexpensive and well located in the old part. I spent the following day doing the usual housekeeping and exploring the popular boardwalk along the calm Black Sea. The Black Sea is a most fascinating body of water. It has a unique, two-layered basin with a deep, anoxic (oxygen-depleted) layer. The lower 90 per cent of the Black Sea is anoxic and saturated with hydrogen sulphide. This environment perfectly preserves organic material, leading to the discovery of many ancient ships. In fact, the world’s oldest sunken ship was found in the Black Sea. It was discovered by scientists in 2018 and dates back 2400 years. The ship, Armenia was also found in the Black Sea, which was considered one of the greatest marine tragedies of the last decade. The ship disappeared in 1941 and has been searched for by scientists ever since.

The Black Sea is also impressively deep, with a depth of 2,200 metres at its deepest point and an average depth of 1,200 metres. Until around 7,600 years ago, the Black Sea was a freshwater lake. A catastrophic flooding event caused saltwater from the Mediterranean to pour in through the Bosporus Strait, transforming it into the saltwater sea it is today.

I decided to stick around for another day, caught in the whirlwind of thoughts about my upcoming trip to Turkey. With prices skyrocketing, camping seemed like my best option, and that meant I needed a sleeping bag. Unfortunately, I ditched mine ages ago; it was practically useless during my travels through Asia, so now I was left scrambling for alternatives.

On top of that, I faced a financial conundrum. My usual go-to for transferring money, Wise, had hit a snag. It was a reliable lifeline back in Asia, allowing me instant access to funds, but now I was left twisting in the wind. I needed to find a new way to transfer cash from my South African bank to my Thai account, as that is the only card I had on hand.

The thought of not having access to my money made me feel vulnerable, like I was floating without a safety net. In a moment of desperation, I reached out to my sister, hoping she could swoop in and help by transferring some funds. I was crossing my fingers that the money would pop into my account sooner rather than later.

While not in a mad rush, I preferred to tackle these uncertainties head-on. The last thing I wanted was to embark on a new journey without the peace of mind that comes with knowing I had financial access wherever I roamed.

 

8 September – Batumi, Georgia – Hopa Camping, Turkey – 30 km

Fifteen kilometres south of Batumi, I came upon the Gonio Fortress, a fascinating site that weaves together Roman military strategy, Greek mythology, and centuries of shifting empires.

It is quite a substantial structure, so I did my best to learn more about it. The fortress, initially known as Apsaros or Apsyrtus, was built by the Romans as a military outpost in the first to third centuries.

Archaeologists found the site included a theatre and hippodrome, suggesting it was more than just a garrison but a thriving Roman town. Water and sewerage canals were identified on the site. The remains of two Roman baths have also been uncovered. Boiler rooms connected through narrow tunnels heated the baths and provided underfloor heating.

Some believe the grave of Saint Matthias, one of the twelve apostles, lies within the fortress walls—though excavation near the site is restricted.

The Byzantines further fortified the site during the sixth and seventh centuries, and in the 14th century, the name ‘Gonio’ first appeared in a historical text. The Ottomans captured Gonio in 1547 and used it as a trade centre and slave market. The fortress remained under Ottoman control until the Treaty of San Stefano in 1878, when it was ceded to the Russian Empire.

Once across the border, I had barely started cycling when I spotted a campsite and decided to stop for the night, as I hadn’t tested my camping gear in a while. It was a lovely spot right next to the water, and they had a restaurant.