Wednesday 13 April 2022

161 CYCLE TOURING NAMIBIA (2) - PART 2

                                                 Shenanigans on a bike - By Leana Niemand




NAMIBIA (2) – Part 2

1 490 Kilometres - 21 Days 


 

23 March – Windhoek – Okahandja – 72 km

Following a leisurely start, Linda and I cycled out of Windhoek. Our first day of riding was a pleasant affair as it felt downhill, and a slight tailwind assisted us. Most of the way was along a highway sporting a wide shoulder and thus easy riding.

This northern part of Namibia seemed lusher and greener than further south. As a result, we encountered more traffic as well as villages. However, the most surprising was the enormous termite mounds and the massive mushrooms along the side of the road. Known as Omajowa, these mushrooms grow at the base of termite mounds in Namibia’s central and northern parts.

Even more fascinating is the tops of the termite mounds all seem to point north. Almost everyone, it seems, has a theory of why the mounds indicate north. “Prevailing winds” is a popular one. “Magnetic fields” is another. Still, just how these mounds point so insistently to the north remains unclear.

Our overnight accommodation was at a campsite in comfortable and reasonably priced bungalows. Good thing too, as the north wind picked up, resulting in rain showers, and we were happy we didn’t opt to camp.

 

24 March – Okahandja – Wewelsburg Camping – 92 km

The cold and rainy weather came as a surprise and made riding to Wewelsburg camping miserable. Unfortunately, my skimpy clothes were ill-suited for this weather, and with teeth chattering we sped down the road, hardly stopping. If it weren’t for my sister, who threw in a 20-year-old rain jacket, I would’ve frozen my non-existing backside off.

Our urgent pace made for an early arrival in Wewelsburg, where we found a lovely farm campsite sporting a massive dog, peacocks, goats, and cattle. The owners fired up the “donkey”, providing a hot shower. Amanda and I chose the old bus, and Linda preferred to pitch her tent, a wise decision. Due to the freezing weather, we all turned in early.

 

25/26 March – Wewelsburg camping – Otjiwarongo – 90 km

We woke to thick fog but, on leaving, the visibility improved and the weather a great deal better than the previous day. Still, I was cold as my clothes were still wet.

The ride was unremarkable and the landscape unchanged as we edged closer to the Caprivi. Our sole excitement was spotting more gigantic mushrooms and a traffic officer who stopped to hand us high visibility belts. How very kind of him.

On reaching Otjiwarongo, Amanda had already located a self-catering guesthouse at a fraction of the price other, more popular, places charged. Thanks, Amanda, you’re a star!

Seeing it was only Linda’s third day (two were long ones), Otjiwarongo made for a day of rest. We did little apart from shop for food and beer and lazed about in our lovely guesthouse.

 

27 March – Otjiwarongo – Otavi – 123 km

The stretch north of Otjiwarongo is a long and lonely road. Truly little happened during the day but, strangely enough, the ride was lovely and relaxed, in perfect cycling weather. I love days like this when the way stretches miles ahead, and one gets into a comfortable rhythm with only the sound of your wheels on the tarmac.

My friend handled the distance easily, and we ambled along until reaching Otavi, where Amanda found a room at a rest camp sporting a tiny swimming pool. We sat around the pool, feet dangling in the cool water while sipping a cold Windhoek draught. A perfect end to a good day of cycling.

 

28/29 March – Otavi – Tsumeb – 65 km

A stiff breeze slowed our pace. Fortunately, riding was easy. The scenery was considerably different from the previous days, and it appeared the more north we ventured, the lusher and greener the landscape.

Our short distance made for an early arrival in Tsumeb, which I’ve heard of numerous times but never visited. Amanda again found inexpensive digs, and I’ll miss her when she returns home on Wednesday.

Our main reason for parking off at Tsumeb was to explore the Etosha National Park. Linda arranged a day tour while Amanda and I did a self-drive through the park as it was more economical. I was happy I had this option as Ethosa is a mind-blowing experience. I was in awe of all I saw as the summer rains brought abundant food and water. I never expected to see such a large amount and variety of wildlife. I consequently had a permanent grin as we drove and snapped gazillion pictures.

 

30 March -Tsumeb – Grootfontein (via Hoba Meteorite) – 111 km

We waved Amanda goodbye and slowly gathered our belongings, wondering if all would fit into our panniers. Mercifully, riding was effortless, and we arrived at the turn-off to Grootfontein early. I opted to investigate the Hoba meteorite and Linda headed into town. The Hoba meteorite (although not spectacular) is the largest single meteorite globally and weighs 60 tonnes; quite a weight for such a small stone! It’s estimated the meteorite landed on this globe about 80 000 million years ago. Being the sole person there, I sat staring at it, eating my jelly sweets and wondered what people made of it 80 million years ago!

On my return, I found Linda uncovered lovely overnight accommodation. I didn’t believe my share of the rate was a mere 200 N$. Thanks, Linda. I know you sponsored me! Later, our host served gin and tonic; we couldn’t believe our luck. How kind of him. Our evening meal at the Kitchen Cafe was equally delicious. We sat in their garden until late, chatting and discussing where to go in the morning.

 

31 March - Grootfontein – Roy’s Camp – 60 km

Our leisurely departure was due to the short distance. The way north was uneventful but made for effortless riding and the kilometres flew by. As a result we reached Roy’s Camp early. The camp offered easy camping, a bar and a restaurant. The short four-kilometre bush walk was enjoyable even though we saw no animals. By evening, the staff lit a fire, and we sat drinking wine and chatting with other campers.

 

1 April – Roy’s Camp – Mururani Camp – 72 km

“Come have a look”, Linda whispered, pointing towards the tiny dik-diks in camp. They were no more than 30-40 centimetres high and couldn’t weigh much more than 3 or 4 kilograms—a great way to greet the day.

Again, leaving was past nine as the distance to Mururani Camp was a comfortable 70 kilometres. The slight headwind was a blessing in disguise as it kept us cool and kept the flies at bay. Still, butterflies abounded.

Mururani Camp had a shop on the main road providing cheap beers and snacks. Camping was a laidback affair on a lush lawn and offered the benefit of a large lapa to cook and hang out the rest of the afternoon.

 

2/3 April - Mururani Rest Camp – Rundu – 137 km

It was a long ride to Rundu, but we stuck to the task at hand. Once in Rundu I opted for the Backpackers and Linda for a slightly more upmarket guesthouse.

 

4 April – Rundu – Mukuku Rest Camp – 77 km

Seeing most shops are closed on a Sunday in Namibia, not a great deal got done, and I, therefore, proceeded to the shop first thing Monday morning. Unfortunately, Linda also had trouble drawing money. It was almost 11 o’clock before we made our way through the potholes and muddy puddles out of Rundu.

Not a considerable amount happened during the day. Still, riding through a rural area where traditional huts abounded was pleasant. It’s an area where people live simple lives; kids walk to schools consisting of no more than tin shacks.

At Mukuku Rest Camp, we chatted to the owner, who offered to take us on a boat ride along the Okovango River. What an immense privilege to experience this river at sunset as the many birds settled in the treetops.

 

5 April - Mukuku Rest Camp – Camp Ndurukoro – 111 km

Linda and I thanked Hans, the owner, and walked our bikes along the sandy path to the dirt road. At least the dirt road was in good condition and made reaching the paved road easy.

 

6 April - Camp Ndurukoro – Rainbow River Lodge - 65 km

Although our friendly hosts at the Ndurukoro Camp said they would phone their friends at Shametu to tell them we were on our way, Linda wanted to stay at Rainbow River Lodge as she believed it had a view of the Popa Falls. After pushing our bikes along the sandy approach road, we uncovered a campsite on the river with no view of the falls.

 

7 April – Rainbow River Lodge – Omega Police Station – 85 km

It took time to walk our bikes back to the main road from where the going was considerably more manageable. Our first stop was at the supermarket to stock up on food before getting underway towards the Botswana border, still, a few days riding away.

 

8 April - Omega Police Station – Kongola – 139 km

We thanked the friendly police officers and resumed our quest in the presence of the kids walking to school. It’s astounding how far these little kids walk. Most schools were basic setups under trees with only a tin shack or two.

Once again, the day turned out a long, slow slog along the main road. Little happened except the familiar sight of small groups of traditional huts and women collecting wood. We were still cycling through the Bwabwata National Park. Although a multi-use area, we were lucky to see two elephants, albeit far in the distance. Linda chose a more upmarket guesthouse, whereas I chose a local joint at a mere 150 N$. In typical African style, the room was as basic as anticipated, but the friendliness was unbeatable.

 

9 April – Kongola – Ivory Camp – 35km

By morning, Linda decided this was enough long and lonely stretches and opted for an excursion along the Kwando River. I needed to draw money and top up my internet and thus had to wait until the single shop in the village opened. Things move slowly in Africa. On cycling out of the village, the sign to Camp Kwando made me realise I was at the turnoff to my friend’s lodge where I was invited to overnight. So I made a U-turn and headed in the direction of Ivory Camp.

At camp, I was surprised the units were right on the Kwando River and that the area formed part of a hunting concession. Hippos wandered around at leisure and I was advised to put the bike inside. Koen, the manager, was super friendly, and as I didn’t want to take advantage of his kindness, I took a taxi into town to buy food and beer. What a fantastic experience. The trip took almost the rest of the day as the driver stopped at each person, enquiring about their well-being and whether they needed a ride. In the village, each one got dropped off and collected later.

By the time I returned to the lodge, Koen had prepared us a meal, and we sat outside eating and listening to the sounds of the wilderness. The news that a neighbour died of malaria was a reality check and I realised I hadn’t started taking my malaria tablets.

 

10 April – Ivory Camp – Kongola – 36 km

I returned along the sandy track and cycled past peaceful settlements where smoke lazily drifted skywards. The way led past kids collecting water and wood as I found myself cycling into a stiff breeze. My late departure and the headwind made me realise I most likely would be unable to reach Katima and hence stayed one more night in the tiny settlement of Kongola.

Albeit situated on the national road and the national power line, it has not yet been connected to the electricity grid. The power was iffy, to say the least. Luckily, the power came on at around 6 pm, but it was a mystery just how long it would last. There’s further no access to safe water but, too lazy to cycle to the shop, I drank the water anyway as I reckoned I’m immune to water-borne diseases by now. I guess this can come back to bite me in the ass!

 

11/12 April – Kongola – Katima Mulilo – 120 km

The route between Kongola and Katima is not one of the most interesting, but there’s no such thing as a dull day of cycling in Africa. Unexpectedly, I encountered ladies collecting wood or water, and their faces screamed disbelief, and I can’t blame them. However, they were quick to smile and wave once over the initial shock.

We haven’t seen any of the enormous termite mounds seen further south because the termite mound soil is used to build huts, and I understand these structures can last between 5 – 10 years. The road was further dotted with makeshift stalls selling fresh milk and meat. Exactly how fresh remains a mystery.

Neat settlements abounded, and so did the Nguni cattle, a breed indigenous to Southern Africa. Nguni cattle are heat and light tolerant and can handle extreme heat and cold alike. In addition, they are adaptable and hardy and possess excellent resistance to internal and external parasites with natural immunity to tick-borne diseases.

The effortless riding made for an early arrival in the sad-looking town of Katima where I bunked down at the ABC Guesthouse. I love these places and realise how much I’ve missed Africa and its simple and slow way of life.

The following day was also spent in Katima as I had a few things to do, and Linda needed a day of rest after her long cycle the previous day.

Interestingly, I chatted with people and was asked if I wanted to settle in the area. The indigenous people do not view land as their own property – instead, it is something that belongs to everyone. I understood that they could speak to the chief and, if permission was granted, I could build myself a hut. I quite like that idea. 

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