CYCLE TOURING THAILAND (21.1) IS THE PANDEMIC OVER YET? 2021

Shenanigans on a Bike - By Leana Niemand

158 THAILAND (21.1) 
1 791 Kilometers - 30 Days
24 November – 5 January 2022

PHOTOS
MAP

 

24 November - Pattaya – Rayong – 80 km

I was cautiously excited to return to life on a bike and see how the world changed over the past year and eight months. However, even though the pandemic was far from over, I couldn’t wait any longer. So I saddled my old iron horse for a ride around Thailand. If only for my sanity.

Loading the bike and closing the condo took forever, but I eventually got underway. My first stop was a short two kilometres further at Jomtien Beach to have coffee in the company of Dawn and Dan. I don’t know if I would’ve survived the pandemic if not for them. They kept me sane; if not for Dawn, I don’t know if I would’ve kept up our running regime. Thanks, Dawn - run like the wind, my friend!

It felt good cycling out of Pattaya. Our daily exercise kept me ticking over, making a comfortable 80-kilometre ride to Rayong. The day was a pleasant one. The sun was out the sky blue and the rice paddies green. I believe I sported an ear-to-ear grin pedalling along minor paths past a never-ending string of ornate temples, brightly adorned Bodhi trees, steaming mobile food carts and spirit houses. It was good to be in the saddle once more.

 

25 November - Rayong - Roadside accommodation - 91 km

Coffee was from the ever-present 7-Eleven, and the time therefore before 9 a.m. when I cycled out of Rayong. Barely 10 kilometres down the drag, I’d my first puncture. The new tube was soon in, but seeing I only had one spare, I assumed it best to stop at a bicycle/motorbike repair shop and let them do the fixing.

The coast beyond Rayong is a true paradise, and I ambled on to pretty Ban Phe. Ban Phe is the jumping-off point to nearby islands and thus has a lively touristy trade. As a result, locating a bike shop was pretty easy, and in no time, the tube was fixed, and I could be on my way. Tiny Ban Phe also has a large fishing fleet, primarily for fish sauce production.

Around lunchtime, I’d a bite to eat and sat watching the ocean. No sooner had I left, and my saddle, nuts and screws all landed on the road. Gosh, I could’ve ruined part of my anatomy I may still have a use for later. I picked up the pieces and popped in at a nearby guesthouse to enquire about a ride to a bike shop. The kind lady phoned and then suggested she take me and the saddle to the motorbike repairman as he could fix it. So, off we went and returned sporting a fixed saddle. Thank goodness for motorbike repair workshops.

It was late by the time I spotted roadside bungalows and considered it a good enough place to overnight. The lady was super friendly, and the tiny adjacent eatery conjured up a plate of fried rice even though they were officially closed for the day—how nice of them and just the thing needed in the wake of my eventful day.

 

26 November – Roadside cottage – Chao Lao – 17 km

Seeing I was well fed and rested, I departed early-ish. Gosh, there’s nothing better than an open road without a destination in mind. Fifteen kilometres later, I arrived at Chao Lao, a lovely small seaside resort. Guesthouses lined the main street, and I soon spotted one advertising bungalows at 350THB. I wrestled the bike, but it had a will of its own and turned in. Soon I was comfortably ensconced in a tiny wooden cabin.

My early arrival gave time to sort out my inability to access MS Word. Even though I only use the laptop when travelling, everything has stayed the same since I last used it. Eventually, I sorted it, did laundry, and thus 4 o’clock by the time all was done.

 

27 November - Chao Lao – Trat - 90 km

I generally prefer to cycle 20 kilometres or so before having a bite to eat, and on this day I did precisely that.

Domestic tourists usually frequent the southeast coast of Thailand, but although weekend, the beaches were largely deserted. The ocean was usually crystal clear, but I never saw any dive boats. Likewise, the popular viewpoints were scarily quiet apart for a young girl selling homemade snacks. The area is one of the few places where one can still find bungalows on the water’s edge—total bliss.

I’m always surprised to see horseshoe crabs for sale. They are odd-looking, but interestingly, the earliest horseshoe crab fossils date to roughly 450 million years! One more fascinating fact is horseshoe crabs use hemocyanin to carry oxygen through their blood. Because of the copper present in hemocyanin, their blood is blue. Fascinating, hey?

The ride was predominantly into a slight breeze, but not strong enough to make me do a U-turn and head back the way I came. The entire route was blessed with a cycle lane, making it a pretty easy 90-kilometre ride to Trat. Once in town, Baan Jaidee guesthouse made the best place to overnight as they still offer comfortable and sparkling clean rooms at 250THB. November/December is a good time to cycle as the weather isn’t as hot and humid.

 

28 November – Trat – Klaeng – 127 km

I didn’t do my planned loop ride to Pattaya as I woke to a breezy north-easterly. The north-easterly wind brings cooler and less humid conditions and blows between November and March, and thus better to head south.

Once at the turn-off, I wisely thought better of it and proceeded in a westerly direction. The plan was to return to Pattaya to collect the tent ordered and do my 90-day registration prior to continuing my ride.

A great deal of the day was spent trying to uncover paths not taken before. Cycling through tiny half-forgotten villages where a well still forms the central attraction is such a pleasure.

I won’t say I’d the wind at my back, but still, better than facing it head-on. I don’t know if it was due to my chocolate cake breakfast, but I was full of beans and made my way to Klaeng. Towards the end of the day, I felt like a hamster on a treadmill and pulled into cute roadside cottages sporting beer and crisps! It was a no-brainer.

 

29 November – Klaeng – Pattaya – 123 km

Surprisingly, a light breakfast was included. Even though the ladies knew I was travelling solo, I still received two breakfasts. Of course, I ate both, hahaha!

I didn’t feel much like cycling to Pattaya, as I’ve cycled that stretch many times. Still, there wasn’t any other option and I stepped on the pedals.

 

30 November – 5 December – Jomtien

I stayed longer than anticipated as there were always more things to do.

 

6 December - Pattaya – Bangsaen Beach, Chon Buri - 60 km

At last, I closed the condo and cycled out of Sodom and Gomorrah. It’s never a scenic ride north, but I did it anyhow. My new saddle was a real pain in the ass, and I made it a short ride to Bangsaen.

The most interesting was the 300THB room, one block from the beach, where “fully tiled” took on a new meaning. Before settling in, I gave the room a generous Dettol disinfectant spray. Hahaha! Sunset was a perfect time to stroll along the promenade and grab a bite to eat.

 

7 December - Bangsaen Beach – Samut Prakan – 110 km

The Gulf of Thailand, also known as the Gulf of Siam, is relatively shallow: its mean depth is 58 metres, and the maximum depth only 85 metres. This makes water exchange slow, and the strong water inflow from the rivers reduces salinity but enriches the sediment. As a result, of Thailand’s total marine catch, 41 per cent is caught in the Gulf of Thailand. Here is the sad part: In February 2017, a ten-kilometre-long patch of plastic refuse floated off Chumphon. I don’t know what happened to it, but it’s said Thailand is among the world’s worst plastic polluters. Thailand’s Pollution Control Department (PCD) estimates plastic waste in the country is increasing at an annual rate of 12 per cent, or around two million tonnes annually!

Trying to avoid the hectic traffic, I stuck as close as possible to the Gulf. Still, I discovered nearly all routes flooded and impossible to get through at times. Flooding is due to a variety of factors. First, the geography of Bangkok and its surrounding areas make it prone to flooding. Situated on natural flood plains near the mouth of the Chao Phraya River delta. Therefore, the area around the Gulf is inclined to regular flooding during the wet season, especially during high tide.

Eventually, I came upon a rural path along one of the canals, which made riding through a rural part of Thailand.

 

8 December – Samut Sakon – Samut Songkhram – 40 km

Following the railway line, the ride to Samut Songkhram became pleasant biking. The area is dotted by hamlets consisting of only a few houses a mere metre or so from the tracks. But, gosh, they couldn’t get any closer if they wished!

The short distance made for an early arrival in Samut Songkhram. It must’ve been high tide as the river flooded its banks, and the entire town was underwater. What a mess. Still, I made my way to the hostel, but sadly they were closed. The famous train market was quiet, and only a few stalls remained. I never saw any trains and didn’t know if they were still running—the pandemic sure took the spark out of travelling. Finally, however, a room at 300THB lured me in, and it felt like I spent the rest of the day eating.

December is the cool season in Thailand and the best time to enjoy Pla Thu. Pla Thu, or short-bodied mackerel, is widely available in the Gulf of Thailand. I believe Pla Thu from Mae Klong or Samut Songkhram is the best. The area holds an annual festival, but I wonder if it will be held this year due to the virus.

 

9 December – Samut Songkhram – Hua Hin – 118 km

Eager to get underway before the tide came in, departing Samut Songkhram was a rushed affair. Ten kilometres later, I was on the scenic route pedalling south along the Gulf of Thailand. The area is highly likely one of my favourite rides. The road runs close to the coast; I’d a slight breeze from behind, the sun was out, and so were a gazillion birds. The area is primarily known for salt production, and I pedalled past vast salt fields where the paddies were filled with water. These pans attract millions of birds from as far afield as Alaska and Siberia. I spent much of the day looking for the tiny spoon-billed sandpiper. No wonder I took the entire day to cycle the relatively short distance to Hua Hin.

Even though Hua Hin looked somewhat sad in the absence of the masses, I stayed an extra day, mainly as the digs were inexpensive at 300THB. At least the room was on the ground floor and had a door to a walled yard—my absolute favourite type of accommodation. This allowed doing laundry and sorting out a few things online. Actually, “did laundry” is misleading as all I did was rinse my cycling clothes. In the process, I devoured an entire bag of liquorice and a bag of popcorn. Once I start on liquorice……

My saunter around town only revealed previously bustling lanes, eerily quiet. Most premises were to let, and even the ladies at the massage shops looked defeated as they slumped outside their shops, appearing captivated by their phones without the familiar, “You want massaaaage?”

 

11 December – Hua Inn – Prachuap Khiri Khan- 113 km

Aided by a stiff breeze, I pedalled out of touristy Hua Inn. I know I’m harping on regarding the pleasures of cycling, but there’s nothing better than being on “the road to nowhere”. Without a destination in mind, a stiff breeze at my back, sublime vistas and a pleasant 30-odd degrees, I couldn’t help but giggle at my fortune.

So good was it I scarcely stopped and thus rolled into Prachuap reasonably early. I cycled straight to Maggie’s Homestay, my old favourite. Maggie’s consists of 200THB rooms, a pleasant outside social area, a kitchen area, and a large yard featuring a washing and water filter machine. It’s the kind of place which attracts long-term travellers, cyclists and backpackers. As a result, it wasn’t surprising to meet two other guests, one who has been at Maggie’s for more than a year, waiting out the pandemic. I couldn’t wait to get the kettle boiling for a cup of coffee which I drank, chatting to the others. Afterwards, and following a shower, I parked myself on one of the outdoor sofas, beer in hand.

 

12/13 December – Prachuap Kiri Khan

Two days were spent at Maggie’s as it’s an easy place to linger, run, do laundry, eat and socialise. Nick, the British chap, who has been at Maggie’s since the pandemic, is also a cyclist en route to Malaysia. He was quiet but easy to chat with, and the days flew by.

 

14 December - Prachuap – Ban Krut – 71 km

Powered by the wind, I flew south through coconut palm plantations and past snow-white beaches.

Today was highly likely the first time someone with questionable intentions (in Thailand) harassed me. Eventually, he sped off as he thought I was about to attack him, hahaha! However, I rolled into Ban Krut early due to a favourable wind. I’d word from Derick (who’d cycled this route previously) regarding a 250THB room. As I’ve never overnighted in Ban Krut previously, I pulled in.

 

15-16 December – Ban Krut – Chumphon - 123 km

Not only is December a perfect time for cycle touring in Thailand weather-wise, but this part of the country is particularly picturesque. Add easy cycling, and it’s cycle touring at its very best. So pleasant was it, I hardly stopped. What made it even better was finding a 350THB room in Chumphon where I could wheel the bike right in.

My phone was driving me crazy as it appeared near the end of its life. Frustrated, I bought a new one. It took the best part of the following day to set it up and pop into the bank to reinstall the bank app. Then, seeing my laptop was falling apart, I considered it an excellent time to take it in to be repaired. Luckily, the problem was only a missing screw. The chap wanted no money, and I bought two ice cream cones from the next-door shop and was amazed at the genuine surprise and gratefulness. Gosh, away from sleazy Pattaya, the Thai people are incredibly kind and helpful.

 

17 December – Chumphon – Paknam Lang Suan – 83 km

I was in no particular hurry and had a leisurely start. The south of Chonburi is more lush, green and hilly than further north. The change made a picturesque and varied ride through dense coconut palm plantations and tiny hamlets where chickens pecked in the road. The road hugged the coast; other times, it veered inland over the hills. I cycled this route nearly two years ago, shortly before the pandemic, and the memories came flooding back. Still, I was relieved I didn’t encounter a similar storm.

Reaching Paknam Lang Suan was relatively early, but I couldn’t cycle past Fisherman Bungalow without staying the night. These basic wooden huts on stilts are right on the water’s edge, and at 250THB, I thought it a massive bargain.

 

18 December – Paknam Lang Suan – Surat Tani – 126 km

It turned out a noisy night so close to the ocean, and I emerged early from my humble abode. Sadly, the overcast conditions prevented any sunrise shots. Still, I drank my coffee while watching kids row out to cast their nets in not much more than a plastic bucket.

Cycling south, I believed myself immensely lucky and wondered why the whole world wasn’t out riding their bikes. The reason, I guess, was made clear as the day progressed. Not long after leaving, a storm moved in, but mercifully, it lasted no more than five minutes. Not a great distance later, I had a flat tyre, and 10 kilometres from Surat Tani, the heavens opened once more, and rain came gushing down. It rained so hard I could barely see where I was going. Nevertheless, I pulled my cap low and kept going, wondering if I was on the right road.

Eventually, I pedalled into Surat Tani just as its 130 000 population was on their way home. Sopping wet and with water dripping, I pulled into My Place @ Surat, which offered budget rooms. Not wanting to cart my panniers to the 4th floor, I settled for a 360THB room on the 3rd floor. I needed food in a hurry and scurried to the nearby night market to grab a bite to eat even before showering.

 

19 December – Surat Thani – Tha Sala – 109 km

I stayed on the main road, as I didn’t see any rural road. As a result, I didn’t even take one picture. Although easy riding, main roads make for monotonous riding.

Once in Tha Sala, I assumed it best to call it a day and look for a secondary road in the morning. I further decided to try the new weekly ferry between Songkhla and Sattahip, which offers special fairs until the end of the year. I understood a ferry left Songkhla every Thursday, which gave me two days to cycle the 220/250 kilometres to Songkhla, depending on my route.

 

20 December – Tha Sala – Sam Bo – 143 km

I’d word the Sattahip ferry departed on Wednesday, 22 December and not Thursday as anticipated. Thank goodness a friend alerted me, and I said to myself, “Self, you better step on it as you’ve 220 kilometres to go before 1 o’clock tomorrow!” Luckily, cycling was effortless, albeit raining the entire way.

It rained so hard I could barely see where I was going at times, but I’d a boat to catch. Unfortunately, the visibility was so poor are could scarcely see the top of the wind turbines. Finally, a mere 60 kilometres remained and I thought I’d done enough to make the ferry—time for crisps and beer.

By evening, I booked and paid using Line; and hoped it would work out.

 

22 December – Sam Bo – Songkla – 67 km

Before seven, I pointed my mobile home in the direction of Songkla. Again, riding was effortless, and I slinked into Songkhla with more time than needed. Luckily the town offered a fair amount to see, and I cycled through the old city featuring old Chinese shophouses before returning to the port.

Being a new ferry, it seemed no one quite knew what to do and where to go. Still, the staff was super friendly. Exactly why one had to board at 14h00 while we only sailed well past 16h00 remained a mystery. More people were onboard than expected, but one hardly noticed as the boat was designed to take 950 people, and we were far from that number. Communication could’ve been better concerning what’s available on board. But then it’s highly likely the info was posted in Thai. This is, after all, Thailand. Food was only served between 17h00 – 19h00, but snacks were available throughout the trip. Surprisingly, no alcohol was sold, and the trip was thus relatively subdued. There was little to do beyond sunset as no Wi-Fi was on board.

 

23 December - Songkla – Pattaya – 40 km

I slept well, having an entire row of seats to myself. The boat anchored in Sattahip around 1 p.m. Getting the bike from its securely strapped location took a while.

It didn’t take long to cycle the 40 kilometres to Jomtien, where I first stopped for a few beers at Dawn and Dan’s place before cycling home.

 

24 December – 5 January 2022

Many social events kept me busy including Christmas Day. Although I’m not religious the day was spent in the company of good friends. We spent the day on the beach under umbrellas with Dan, Dawn, Sean, Mike, Graham and Lisa, drinking a few beers.

The days flew by. I ordered new reading glasses and was told they would only arrive on 5 January. I guessed it wasn’t the end of the world as I’d a few things to sort out.

The wait also allowed me to get back into jogging, something I’d neglected while travelling. I further needed to order a new sleeping mat. Unfortunately, I left the order too late and discovered the shop was closed until 6 January.

It was thus 8 February before I said Adios to the lovely people I befriended during Covid and was finally Africa-bound. Africa was indeed a last resort as, after nearly two years, Thailand still hadn’t opened its land borders.

I was cautiously excited to return to my home soil and see what Africa had in store. However, travelling wasn’t as easy as before, and I wasn’t sure if I would even take off.