Sunday, 21 May 2017

CYCLE TOURING THAILAND (9.1) - EN ROUTE TO CAMBODIA



THAILAND (9.1)
521 Kilometres – 43 Days
8 April – 20 May 2017

MAP

PHOTOS

 

8-13 April – Bangkok

Janice grabbed a taxi to the airport, and at a loss at what to do next, I handed in my laundry. Bangkok was steaming, resulting in me doing little apart from said laundry. An elderly lady in a dark and narrow alley operated a few machines under a makeshift shelter. The entire Soi (lane) was crammed with laundry bags except for a tiny space where she, seemingly, slept all day and night. On my return, she hauled out mine from underneath the hundreds of bags. Though given a paper stating the amount and time, it didn’t indicate any name or number. The slip wasn’t required, and you can thus understand my slack-jawed surprise as she handed me my laundry. I’d no idea I was that odd!

The following day the search was on to find more affordable accommodation and, in the process, discovered a room at Sleep Inn. It was dirt cheap, and the price reflected the quality of the rooms. I didn’t complain as it featured a fan, air-con and a window plus “bathroom inside”. Bargain.

Hanging out in Bangkok was to wait for a new jockey wheel to arrive, and it was nice to do absolutely nothing a day or two. Still, I went for my morning jog, which wasn’t as enjoyable as usual. It could’ve been the heat or the fact I didn’t run often enough. In the morning, my hamstrings were so tight they were painful. Stopping in a park to join others doing their stretches brought some relief (not sure what they made of that).

The next day my walk to Chinatown took me through the fish market offering its unusual produce and through the flower market. The building was nice and cool and smelt divine, especially after the fish market. The vegetable market was equally intriguing as there’s inevitably produce I’ve never seen.

Chinatown’s “New Market” wasn’t so new as it had about two decades under its belt but remained a remarkable place that sold practically anything. Sadly, it became one more blistering day, and best to return to my humble abode by river taxi. At least the room was air-conditioned.

By evening, I opted for a massage to see if it would solve my hamstring problem. Although it felt miles better afterwards, the pain soon returned.

Most evenings, I searched out a café where one could’ve a beer and a bite to eat. If the establishment offered (working) Wi-Fi, it was a bonus an excellent place to spend a few hours editing photos and updates. But, unfortunately, I didn’t have the patience to sit long and typically left before all was done.

During the following days, I searched for interesting snippets and came across the Holy Rosary Church. The Portuguese built the church in 1786, four years after the establishment of Bangkok, with a grant from King Rama 1. Sadly, the church was constructed due to a rift in the Santa Cruz Church in Thonburi. It seemed not even churches were immune to in-house fighting.

Songkran, the Thai New Year’s festival held during April, was in full swing. The festival runs for three days and is celebrated with a water festival. The word “Songkran”, I understood, came from the Sanskrit word “sakrānti”, literally “astrological passage”, meaning transformation or change. It coincides with the rising of Aries on the astrological chart and is celebrated in Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, and Cambodia.

The 13th was a busy day, as Thais traditionally visited temples to bathe Buddha statues. The temples were crammed by devotees pouring fragrant water over rows of Buddha statues, making wishes, and receiving blessings from the monks. Nearly all businesses were closed, as New Year celebrations, or “Rot Nam Dam,” are typically celebrated in family members’ company. In general, people return to their hometowns to spend the day in the company of friends and family.

As mentioned, Songkran is a water festival, and every man and his dog was equipped with a water gun. There was no escaping it, as large water containers were strategically placed for this purpose. The streets were crowded by both Thais and foreigners, shooting, and throwing water; as a result, there wasn’t a dry corner in all of Bangkok.

 

14–28 April – Bangkok - Songkran Festival

A full-scale war occurred in the alleys as all were armed to the teeth with plastic water guns. Both adults and kids were having the time of their lives. It appeared if you give a grownup a water gun, they instantly turn into kids. The best part of Songkran is people are out in the streets, laughing and having fun, and not sitting staring at their phones like zombies. It’s easily the best fun anyone can have.

Once Songkran was over, I ambled to the amulet market, where trade was based around tiny talismans. The amulets are purchased mainly by monks, taxi drivers and anyone who needs good luck. Some are tiny, barely a centimetre or two tall. Vendors claim some were antique and clients peered through magnifying glasses at the pieces. The market sold weird voodoo-like looking figurines and I wondered what they were all about. For apparent reasons, fertility sprung to mind.

My search for a good spot for night photography didn’t pan out. I eventually returned to the Gecko Bar, which had become my nightly hangout. I hooked up with Silvia (from Germany) and Patrick (from India, who lived mainly in England but now in Spain). The Gecko Bar was our unofficial meeting point for breakfast or a beer in the evening. There, we met Jeff, an English chap teaching in Myanmar. I love the diversity of Bangkok.

The days passed quickly, and shortly after Songkran, a message from Bok-Bok Bike stated the jockey wheel had arrived. While they serviced the bike, I scanned the internet for an inexpensive condo to buy but couldn’t find any at the price I’d in mind. Eventually, I noticed one and contacted the agent. The next day I grabbed a bus to Jomtien to meet Benn, an agent from Immobilien Pattaya.

I like the little rabbit hole shown, as it was located close to the beach (one kilometre) and had a lovely pool. The building was an older one but low rise with only five storeys. However, the price mostly drew me to this particular unit. I paid a deposit to secure the sale and held thumbs all would work out.

 

28 April - Bangkok – Bang Saen - 80 km

Time to leave the Big Mango and head south. A task easier said than done. In trying to avoid main roads, I soon found myself amongst dubious-looking food stalls and intriguing shrines. April is a hot and dry month in Thailand, but midway to Bang Saen, the heavens opened. A golf driving range made the perfect shelter, and in the company of a few motorbikes, we waited out the storm. It lasted surprisingly long but eventually could be on our way. I followed the signs to Chonburi and along the coast to Bang Saen Beach, which turned out lovely.

 

29 April - Bang Saen Beach – Jomtien, Pattaya - 56 km

A pleasant ride took me to Pattaya, where I first popped into the Immobilien office. We discussed a few things and I realised it would be a while until all was in place. But, unfortunately, buying property in Thailand can be a legal minefield, and I was much at the mercy of the Immobilien company. This wasn’t a feeling I enjoyed and was understandably uncomfortable and rightly so.

A bed at Beachspot Hostel became home the next two weeks and where the dorm only had two beds, and me the lone occupant. Not a bad deal for a dorm with a door to a balcony overlooking the beach. The place was like a sauna with merely a fan, but one couldn’t complain about the price.

At around sunset, I sauntered to the night market, bought a beer from 7-Eleven, and sat on the beach, enjoying the evening.

 

30 April - Jomtien

My morning jog was an immense pleasure on a beach that stretched quite a few kilometres both North and South. A dip in the ocean made me realise the water was so warm it could never cool me. Still, I wasn’t complaining and waddled in the lukewarm water like a contented hippo.

I was fast learning the Thai ways. A coin-operated laundry allowed doing easy laundry and the remainder of the morning was spent running the usual errands. By midday I retreated to the relative cool of my room, only to surface at around sunset.

 

1–6 May - Jomtien

Hanging around Jomtien wasn’t what I wanted to do and was keen to get underway. Still, it took some time for the condo to be registered in my name. The words condo, flat or apartment doesn’t describe the unit as it was merely a room. The reasons for buying it were nevertheless multiple. I felt I needed to secure a more permanent abode as my money was dwindling super-fast. I thus searched for the most inexpensive place available as I didn’t want to worry about it not bringing in an income. Doing this would give me a place to stay (virtually free) forever (if needed). Thailand further made an excellent central base and was still one of the few places in the world where foreigners could buy property (not land).

The flat was tenanted (something I was thankful for), and there was thus no playing house-house in my new apartment. Immoblien helped me open a bank account, which made convenient depositing of the monthly rent. The only problem was the internet banking password would take two weeks. But, by far, the truly extraordinary thing was I paid for the unit using my bank card. I’ve never bought a property using a bank card! Suddenly I was the proud owner of a property in Thailand and, in one fell swoop, went from traveller to ex-pat!

 

7 May - Jomtien

The days passed slowly as I waited to sign the relevant documents at the land office. In the meantime, I took the ferry to Koh Larn island with Emmy and Katae from the Immobilien Office. It was a lovely day out, and upon my return, I ordered a bowl of mushroom soup from a food vendor and enjoyed it sitting on the sand, watching the sunset.

 

8 May - Jontiem

The previous relaxing day must’ve done me good as I was up at 5h30 and pounding the pavements by 6h00. I even took three minutes off my usual time. Still, no faster than a crawl, but it made me happy. Afterwards, a swim in the ocean and coffee on the beach made a perfect start to another marvellous day.

 

9 May - Jomtien

It’s pretty amazing how much we experience in a day and how many exciting things we see if only we have time to reflect. Jogging, I didn’t just see fishing boats return following a night at sea, but ladies sold whatever was caught during the night. Food vendors, in turn, sold noodle soup to the fishermen. I stepped carefully over troubled souls, non-compos mentis upon the pavement, empty bottles beside them. I jogged past sad-looking ladyboys returning from a night out, shoulders hunched and high heels in hand, dragging heavily on a cigarette, and past monks collecting food.

My route took me past where Thailand played Afghanistan in the Asian Beach Handball Championships. Later, I signed papers at the Land Office to transfer the unit into my name. Eating spicy noodle soup and doing laundry in a wastepaper basket was merely a tiny part of the day.

 

10–11 May - Jomtien and around

My daily ride took me off the beaten track, out towards the hills and past the airport and the turtle conservation centre before returning home—easy cycling and not far, about 80 kilometres or so. I returned around 3h30, a good time for coffee and cake.

A jogger went past while sitting staring into space, and it looked good. I ambled to my room, donned my running shoes and headed out the door. It was such a good run; I even went slightly further and ran 11 kilometres instead of my usual 10 kilometres. It wasn’t a great deal further and relatively slow, but still, I felt remarkably energetic. Maybe I should’ve coffee and cake more often.

 

12–15 May - Jomtien and around

So inspired was I by the previous day’s running and cycling I did it again (this time without the coffee). It turned out quite an exciting day. The weather was overcast and it drizzled from time to time, making perfect cycling weather.

Most places in Pattaya turned out fake, like the cultural village and the floating market. I did, however, come across an unusual, let’s call it, “park”, for lack of a better word. The area was around a large and beautiful lake, sporting fountains, manicured gardens and plenty of temples (wats) and stupas. From there the road continued to the “Big Buddha Mountain”, which turned out a Big Buddha with a difference, not a statue but an image carved (lasered) into the side of a mountain, known as the Khao Chi Chan Buddha. It’s an image of Buddha sitting cross-legged, one hand resting on his knee and the other in his lap. The image is 109-metre-tall and 70-metre-wide. I understood the image was designed using computer software and drawn onto the side of Khao Chi Chan by laser. This was done entirely at night. During the day, the image was fixed and adjusted, and when completed, gold was used to fill in the sculpture.

Rain came gushing down, and I returned to Jomtien for a large plate of green curry.

The following morning, I emerged with a stiff neck/shoulder and feared I was getting to the stage of needing a caregiver. It must’ve been a pulled muscle even though I didn’t swing from any chandeliers. I thus didn’t go for my jog but took a walk along the ocean. It was a pleasure wandering amongst the boats and anglers. As no vessel in Asia would ever dream of going out without its prow adorned by colourful ribbons, sashes, and/or garlands of flowers, they made a colourful sight. It’s believed numerous spirits and deities watch over the boats and fishers, and the prows are decorated to respect “Mae Yanang,” a female spirit who resides in the boat’s body. As Mae Yanang is the goddess of travel, I thought of adorning the bicycle with these coloured ribbons. My neck pain improved, but still, by evening, I could barely lift a beer, a real pain in the neck.

 

16 May - Jomtien

Impatient, I cycled to the bank to enquire about the password and was told there was one more form to sign and I wondered why they didn’t inform me? In any event, I wasn’t going to wait a further week and cycled to the property agent, paid the transfer fee and gave them a copy of my bank account to arrange the rental payment.

Finally, I was ready to make my way out of Jomtien and returned to the dorm, did the last laundry, and packed up.

 

17 May - Jontiem – Rayong – 80 km

A storm came in during the night and by morning, it looked as if a mini typhoon hid the area. Pot plants, banners and branches were strewn across the street. Still, the weather didn’t put me off. Under heavy skies, I cycled out of Jomtien and managed exactly five kilometres before being forced to take shelter. Nevertheless, it was good back on the bike and amongst simple roadside stands and chasing dogs (never dreamt I would say such a thing.). The weather looked threatening all day, and on reaching Rayong, I discovered I’d cycled myself right into the mouth of the storm. The wind, by then, was storm-strength, and it took clawing onto the handlebars using all my strength, dodging flying corrugated iron sheets, plastic tables and chairs. Cycling became downright dangerous, and no good looking for camping. The Mee Dee Hotel saved me, and it was a relief to be out of the weather.

 

18 May - Ranong – Kung Wiman Beach – 101 km

The weather looked marginally better, making it possible to continue. Everywhere people were busy cleaning debris from the storm. Branches, trees, but mostly trash coughed up by the ocean littered my path.

Still, it turned out a lovely ride, terribly humid but with a good cloud cover and no rain. A scenic route offering a bicycle path led along the coast, making enjoyable riding past chicken barbeque and durian stands. It must’ve been durian season as vendors made and sold surprisingly tasty durian crisps.

My route spat me out at Kung Wiman Beach, sporting a convenient Wat/temple for camping. The only problem was the heat and humidity, and the tent instantly turned into a sauna. There, however, was no other choice but to crawl in as the mosquitos were eager, giant, and plentiful.

 

19 May - Kung Wiman Beach – Trat – 98 km

The heat made a speedy departure, and I thanked the monks and followed a scenic coastal route. Sadly, the weather was miserable, and rain came pelting down the best part of the ride. A lady travelling by scooter stopped and handed me a raincoat. How sweet of her. I’d one but found them too hot. Still, I donned the raincoat she gave me. My route went past many interesting sights but I only stopped once to look at mud sculptures. Sopping wet, I rode into Trak and was happy to find Pop Guesthouse, a lovely set-up with a friendly vibe that came at a budget price.

 

20 May - Trat, Thailand – Koh Kong, Cambodia - 106 km

My unhurried departure was due to pouring rain. At the first break in the weather, I was out of Trat to cycle the short distance to the Thailand/Cambodian border.

The section between Trat and the border was exceptionally scenic and offered mountains and coastal vistas, making enjoyable riding. Unfortunately, it was too wet to do anything and I pressed onwards.

The border crossing came with the usual exit and entrance stamps. I pedalled into Cambodia and onto Koh Kong, the first Cambodian town along the opposite side of the Koh Poi River.

In Koh Kong, an inexpensive room gave me a bed and shower. I dressed in dry clothes and searched for a Cambodian SIM card and food. Both sounded more straightforward in writing than what it turned out in a country where not much English was spoken. Mercifully, restaurants generally offered pictures from which to order as I was hungry and in no mood to flap arms and cackle like a chicken or snort like a pig.

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