Friday, 20 May 2016

078 & 079 CYCLE TOURING SINGAPORE (2) & MALAYSIA (3)

 


SINGAPORE (2) & MALAYSIA (3)
1 030 Kilometres – 36 Days
13 April – 19 April 2016



Singapore (2)

40 Kilometres – 6 Days

 

13 April 2016 – Cape Town, South Africa – Singapore (by plane)

Even though I didn't manage to cross everything off my to-do list, it was finally time to hit the road again. It wasn't until mid-April that I bid farewell to beautiful Cape Town and embarked on a long flight to Singapore with layovers in Dubai and Colombo, Sri Lanka.

My ultimate destination was Bangkok, where I had an exciting plan to meet up with my friend, Tania, for a thrilling two-month cycling adventure across Asia. The goal was to pedal our way through Southeast Asia from Bangkok, through Laos and Cambodia, and back to Bangkok. I've always felt that Asia is the perfect destination for beginner cycle tourists – with easy access to food and accommodation and relatively gentle terrain.

The flight wasn’t too bad as long-haul flights go; except I had a six-hour layover in Colombo. Moreover, it happened to be the Tamil New Year, a public holiday in Sri Lanka. As a result, heaps of free fruit, tea, coconut milk and rice cakes were offered. The rice cakes were lovely, especially since they were served with a potent chilli paste.

 

14 April - Singapore

As the wheels of the plane touched down on the tarmac in Singapore, I couldn't help but feel a jolt of excitement at the thought of immersing myself in a whole new world. Stepping into the bustling airport, I was surrounded by a vibrant mix of cultures and nationalities, each adding its own unique flavour to the atmosphere.

 

After grabbing some local currency, I made a beeline for a SIM card and then hailed a taxi to whisk me away to Tree in Lodge Hostel, a gem known for its warm welcome to cyclists like me.

Upon arrival, the hostel owner, SK, greeted me with a genuine smile, despite the late hour. It turns out he's a dedicated cyclist who once pedalled all the way from Finland to Singapore. He even went out of his way to help me lug my bike and gear inside. His kindness instantly made me feel at home in this unfamiliar, yet fascinating, land.

 

15 April

The next morning, I emerged from my cosy hostel room well past midday. I set off through the immaculate streets and orderly suburbs of Singapore, making my way to vibrant Chinatown.

The place was a feast for the senses, with enticing aromas wafting from street food stalls and an array of intriguing, dried goods on display - from seahorses to flying lizards. Among the gleaming skyscrapers, the old Chinese shophouses stood proudly, showcasing their vibrant colours and intricate designs.

After indulging in a delightful feast of pau and dim sum, I returned to the hostel to tackle the task of assembling my bike. With each piece coming together, I couldn't help but feel a sense of anticipation for the adventure ahead. Cycling north was top of the agenda, and I couldn’t wait to get going.

 

16 April

I had such an eventful day today! My roommate surprised me with news of a free tour of the Parliament House, and I jumped at the chance. After hastily downing a coffee, I set off for a day filled with history, stunning architecture, and mouth-watering food. As I strolled along the Singapore River, I passed by intriguing art displays, watched tourists savouring meals at riverside restaurants, and observed busy Singaporeans hurrying to and from work.

Later, I headed back to the hostel to grab my tripod for some night-time photography, but my plans took an unexpected turn when two cyclists showed up, and we ended up spending the evening chatting over a few beers. It turned into a lively and social night without me even leaving the hostel!

 

17-18 April

I ended up staying there for two extra days, and it was totally worth it! First off, I was on the hunt for a new laptop because mine was on the fritz, but I ended up deciding against it.

Then, at sunset, I took a leisurely stroll to the waterfront and was lucky enough to catch a glimpse of a spectacular laser show. I attempted to capture the moment with some impromptu hand-held shots, but I couldn't help but wish I had brought my tripod along for the experience. It's always the way, isn't it?

 

19 April - Singapore – Johor Bahru, Malaysia - 40 km

As the sun rose, I found myself on the road to the Woodlands checkpoint, where I met up with SK for a refreshing cold drink. Shortly after, I crossed the border into Malaysia at the bustling and efficient Woodlands checkpoint. Malaysia was starting to feel like a second home to me.

Even though it was still early, I headed to Johor Bahru to experience all this new country had to offer - finding an ATM, getting a local SIM card, and soaking in the atmosphere.

Johor Bahru was transforming rapidly, evolving from a gritty border town to a vibrant and modern city. Sadly, the charming old neighbourhoods were giving way to shiny new malls and shopping centres, but I managed to find a room in an area where traditional eateries and local culture still thrived. I enjoyed a delicious curry and rice while observing toothless men engaged in board games, sipping tea or Tiger beer. The flavours of the curry reminded me why I loved Malaysian cuisine so much. It was a perfect way to end the day.

 

 

079 Malaysia (3)

990 Kilometres – 30 Days

20 April – 19 May 2016

 

20 April – Johor Bahru – Pontian Kecil – 60 km

My windowless room made for sleeping late, and the time was thus past 9h00 before emerging. The humid weather made the clothes cling to my sweat-soaked body long before getting on the bike.

Initially, I planned to follow a smaller path along the coast but, to my surprise, found that the path was now a new highway, clearly indicating Malaysia's rapid development. This left me with little other option but to continue along the highway until I found a minor road. Despite this, the highway made for comfortable riding to Pontian Kecil, where an inexpensive hotel beckoned me to stay.

After checking in, a short stroll led me to a supermarket to buy food and other bits and bobs. However, the scorching heat made me scurry back to the coolness of my air-conditioned room. April is one of Malaysia's hottest months, and I could feel its intensity even indoors.

 

21 April - Pontian Kecil – Batu Pahat – 70 km

It must have been a scorching day as a kind lady on a motorbike pulled up beside me and offered me an ice-cold "100-Plus" sports drink. Her gesture was greatly appreciated, and I eagerly gulped it down. Feeling refreshed and grateful, I continued, but the midday heat remained unforgiving.

Later, a Malay man stopped and offered me a bottle of water. He also offered to give me a ride to Batu Pahat. He must have thought I was a bit crazy for biking in the heat, but he wished me well and continued.

The Warmshowers host I contacted the previous night never responded, and the Garden Hotel had to do for the night. Still, it was a good day, and the kindness of strangers reminded me of the good in the world.

 

22-23 April - Batu Phat – Malacca – 100 km

My digs included breakfast, which came as a surprise. Then, following a decent plate of fried rice, the way led north to Malacca past plenty of stands to quench my thirst. Despite the scorching weather I soldiered onwards and eventually arrived at bustling Malacca.

Malacca was home to Ringo’s Foyer Guest House and Warmshower host, Howard. The place was a cool hostel where cycle tourists could overnight on the roof terrace free of charge.

The next morning, a jog along the river revealed an entirely new perspective of Malacca. The sweltering weather made me appreciate my rooftop spot, as it offered a slight breeze.

 

24 April - Malacca – Lukut - 75 km

The high humidity left me drenched before even getting underway. However, the day offered pleasant coastal riding. A humble stand provided breakfast at a fraction of the price in touristy Malacca. One could tell the day was unusually hot as even Muslim ladies were swimming – burka and all.

Seeing all those ladies in their wet burkas must’ve been a tad too much for this conservative society, and no sooner had my path left the coast than I came across a man masturbating by the roadside.

The oppressing heat made me opt for a pricey homestay, if only for the powerful air-con.

 

25 April - Lukut – Puchong – 80 km

My early departure was due to the heat and I headed towards Peter's place in Puchong, with the hope of meeting him and his family. The day turned out to be comfortable riding, with the route taking me partly through palm oil plantations and partly along a busy road that went past the Malaysian Grand Prix circuit and airport.

Upon reaching Peter's place, I was greeted with a cold beer and a warm pie - what a lovely treat.

 

26 April - 1 May – Puchong

Peter arranged for me to stay in an apartment as the flatlet he usually used for Warmshowers guests was already occupied. Meanwhile, I made plans to fly to India to retrieve the package I had sent from there three months earlier. Unfortunately, the parcel had never left Kochi Post Office, so I had to go there myself. The box contained all of my “valuable” items, such as my sleeping bag, tent, and stove, so it was worth the effort to retrieve it.

Flight prices varied daily, and I was able to find the best-priced option for five days later, so I had a few days to relax. I spent most of my time lounging about, going for a morning jog, and strolling to the shops to buy food.

 

2 May – Puchong, Malaysia – Kochi, India

Peter kindly drove me to the airport at the ungodly hour of 3:00 a.m. as my flight was scheduled to depart at 6:00 a.m. The flight was uneventful and lasted for 4 hours. We arrived in Kochi, India at 7:00 a.m.

I stayed at Kevin's Homestay for the next few days as I searched for my parcel, which was found intact at the post office. The reason for the parcel not being delivered was listed as two-fold. Firstly, an item contained "batteries" which may have referred to the solar panel that couldn't store energy. Secondly, an item contained "powder". Could it have been the instant noodles? Since the parcel was returned for security reasons, the postage was not refunded. Finally, with all my goodies safely in my possession, I headed straight to my favourite steamed momo restaurant.

It was May and the oppressive heat made Kochi appear quite desolate. All the tourists had left and even the long-term tenants had departed in search of cooler climates. When someone asked why I was still there, it became clear that the tourist season had long been over. The fishing boats in the port seemed abandoned, and the fishermen were lethargically watching flies crawl over their meagre catch. The colourful clothes on display looked faded as they slowly flapped in the breeze. Despite the heat and humidity, India remained my favourite place to linger. Maybe it’s the madness, the contrast, the craziness of everything.

While observing the incredible amount of plastic pollution, I saw someone knitting covers for the tree branches nearby. I thought to myself, “This is indeed incredible India.”

 

3-4 May - Kochi

I had a free day in Kochi, which allowed me to explore the city and all it had to offer. I also realised that carrying a large box was impractical, so I purchased a suitcase instead.

Afterwards, I went to the washing area, where laundry was still done by hand in large concrete tubs. The clothing was then wrung out and hung on a twisted rope line. The clothesline, made of coconut husk, isn’t simply green but is considered one of the strongest. The line is twisted, and corners of the laundry are slipped into the twists, making pegs unnecessary. How clever?

Finally, all the items were neatly ironed using old-fashioned cast-iron irons filled with coals. It's amazing how nothing ever gets lost in India; it's just one of the country's countless mysteries. Again, the contrast in India left me speechless.

My return flight to Malaysia departed at 23h30 and left me with a considerable amount of time to kill. At 80 rupees, the airport bus made more sense than a 1,200 rupees taxi ride. But, being India, not everything went according to plan. Soon after departing, all were refunded their 80 rupees and told the bus was caput. Teaming up with Bianca from Switzerland, we hailed a tuk-tuk, and off we went in our “air-con Ferrari” in bumper-to-bumper traffic and made it just in time to catch our 23h30 flight. There’s never a dull moment in India.

 

5 May – Kochi – India - Puchong, Malaysia

AirAsia is a budget airline, and I mean BUDGET. They didn’t even offer a glass of water; the fact that the toilets were free was a surprise. Still, I wasn’t complaining - it was simply fascinating. We landed smoothly, and the airport train took me to Putrajaya Central, where Peter waited. Following a few winks, I slowly gathered my stuff, ready to resume my quest. That evening, a spectacular storm broke over Puchong, complete with dramatic lightning.

 

6 May - Puchong

The previous night’s storm made for a fresh and perfect morning jog. I jogged past municipal workers mowing lawns, leaving the smell of freshly cut grass in their wake. Past the lake and the new MRT still under construction, past the lady selling fried snacks, and I enjoyed the familiarity of what has become my morning jog. My last day in Puchong was spent doing laundry and packing my belongings, and I suddenly found I had a whole bunch of extra stuff.

 

7 May - Puchong - Kuala Selangor – 73 km

I had breakfast in the company of Peter and Alice and knew I would miss them terribly. Still, being on the bicycle and biking along rural paths was good. Towards the end of the day, the Melawati Ria Hotel came into view. At the reception, Saras, a teacher from Puchong, promptly invited me to join them on a firefly trip. We boarded a tiny rowboat in bucketing rain and surprisingly had good sightings of fireflies.

 

8 May - Kuala Selangor

With a fair amount to see in Selangor, I donned my running shoes and headed out the door, first toward the nearby small Nature Park. Unfortunately, the area wasn’t for the fainthearted, mosquito-wise, and I had to step up the pace a tad and make my way out of the park with swarms of eager mosquitos in hot pursuit.

Once outside the park, I dragged my then weary body up Bukit Malawati, a small hill where once stood a fort, captured by the Dutch in 1867 and recaptured by the Sultan in 1873. The only remains were part of a retaining wall, a few cannons, a poisoned well, a 200-year-old Angsana tree, and a bedrock believed to be used for beheading traitors but highly likely utilised by the Sultan as a lookout over his stronghold.

Although the outing was more sightseeing than running, it remained fascinating.

 

9 May - Kuala Selangor - Melintang - 75 km

Early morning, the tarmac was already baking in the sun. Still, I filled my water bottles and searched for rural routes, of which there were plenty. These small secondary paths through palm plantations were quiet, with practically no traffic, only the occasional small kampung and playful monkeys darting across the way.

Interestingly, these Selangor silvered langurs are born sporting orange fur, while the adults are black. The fur doesn’t change colour until three to five months after birth. The young are cared for by females communally and aren’t weaned until 18 months, even though the biological mother stops lactating after 12 months. How fascinating?

Pantai Redang was home to a wishing tree and sported branches entangled by red ribbons. One could buy the ribbons, knotted both ends with coins, and throw them into the tree to make a wish. I threw one lying on the ground and wondered if it would have the same effect.

My chosen path continued across countless rivers, crammed with fishing boats, past ornate Hindu temples and small villages until reaching Melintang. Almost 16h00, the usual food carts were already in full swing. The smells drifting across from these stalls were enough to make me call it a day.

 

10 May - Melintang – Setiawan – 60 km

The stretch between Melintang and Setiawan turned out uneventful as it didn’t offer any rural paths. Under normal circumstances, I wouldn’t have stopped in Setiawan had it not been for me leaving my laptop charger behind. To my shock and horror, I learned that no charger was available for my brand-new laptop. How do they launch a new laptop without the necessary support? All my ranting and raving didn’t make one iota of difference, and certainly wouldn’t make one fall out of the sky.

Contacting the Kuala Selangor hotel to inquire about the charger was a priority, but the answer was negative. A subsequent phone call revealed that the charger was indeed located and a happy dance marked the expected happy ending. Unfortunately, the saga continued as no direct bus ran to Kuala Selangor. The sole bus option ran Setiawan—Kuala Lumper—Klang—Kuala Selangor, a two-day overnight journey returning the same way. Phew, it's best to sleep on it.

 

11 May - Setiawan

Packing a small bag of necessary items, I made my way out the door, mentally prepared for a long bus ride. Midway, I opted for a costly taxi ride. The fee was nearly the laptop's price at 500 Malaysian ringgit (approximately $125). But, on the positive side, I would be back the same day. There were probably better options, but the deed was done. In the process, I became the proud owner of the costliest laptop charger in Malaysia.

 

12 May - Setiawan – Taiping - 90 km

“How old are you?” and “You must be very strong” are typical remarks in this part of the world. My usual reply is that I’m not doing anything remarkable, seeing there are women who give birth naturally. That is strong and brave! I’m simply pedalling a bicycle—not pushing a baby out of my vagina! There is no comparison!

Taiping made for a short cycling day, but I had no desire to push on to Panang, an additional 80 kilometres down the drag. During the day, I met two Belgian cyclists nearing the end of their year-long cycle journey from Belgium to Singapore. They looked fit, lean, and tanned—but mostly happy. Though they were looking forward to seeing their children and grandchildren, I was sure they would miss their life on the road. We chatted for a while before continuing our separate ways.

I pulled into Taiping, thinking I might give the zoo at night one more try, this time with a tripod in hand, but the weather came in and it started raining, and nothing came of my nightly visit to the zoo.

 

13-17 May - Taiping – Penang - 98 km

It was late morning before biking out of Taiping, as I didn’t fall asleep until the early morning hours. Fortunately, the day was overcast, making riding to Penang effortless. Not that I wasn’t sweating buckets, but at least it wasn’t under the scorching sun.

Penang was meant to be a quick in-and-out to arrange a Thailand visa. But being Friday meant waiting until Monday to hand in the passport, and hopefully receiving it the following morning, making it Wednesday before resuming my ride. In the meantime, a budget room at the Love Lane Inn was as bare-bones as they came, providing only a mattress on the floor. The price, however, reflected the lack of amenities.

Soon, the famous street food got underway, and I rushed to my favourite food stand and gulped down a good dose of exotic eats. Then, after making a copy of the passport (needed for the visa application), I returned to my mattress on the floor.

In the morning, I donned running shoes and set off to discover the area on foot. First, I went to the water’s edge, then along the promenade, past the old fort and heaps of old colonial buildings, some renovated and others still waiting in line.

One could hardly call it “running” as I merely chugged along grimacing, gasping for air, arms flailing wildly. Taking all that effort, I should’ve moved at quite a pace but scarcely moved at all. It’s extraordinary how others can make jogging look so comfortable. Drenched in sweat, I returned to my mattress and found no water in the shower due to a broken pipe. The lack of amenities made me load up and move around the corner to another and considerably better joint at the same price. At least I had a bed, bedside table, writing table, two chairs, and a “shower inside”, but the toilet was still outside. LOL.

Following my morning run, I met up with Rickee Lee, a native of Penang and fellow cycle tourer. We had breakfast together and jabbered on about all kinds of things. It’s incredible — the awesome people one meets when travelling by bike.

The following day, a bus took me to the Snake Temple along the town's outskirts. The temple is quite old and was constructed in 1850 by a Buddhist monk. Surprisingly, the snakes weren’t in cages but slithered at random. One had to tread carefully, as pit vipers were everywhere. After a few pictures, I made a hasty retreat.

Finally, Tuesday arrived, and it was time to collect the passport containing a new two-month Thailand visa. The reason for the two-month visa was that I planned on meeting Tania in Bangkok around mid-June for a three-month cycle ride in Asia.

 

18 May - Penang – Alor Setar - 103 km

I just about had enough of the negativity in Southeast Asia. If one more person told me I was too old to cycle, I thought I was going to fucking punch them in the face. I look old, but Christ, I wasn’t 100 years old. All the “How old ARE you?” said with a lifting of the eyebrows was getting on my droopy tits. I guessed I could’ve donned a burka. One would swear the right to ride a bicycle was strictly reserved for the under 25s. Rant over.

I didn’t get underway until 9h00, but the day offered pleasurable biking and pleasant weather, 30–33°C. My chosen route followed the main road past a multitude of eateries selling interesting snacks and drinks. The area further revealed huge, high-volume buildings used for farming swiftlet nests. These edible nests are made of solidified saliva and used in soups, an immensely popular, albeit expensive, dish.

The rainy season was fast approaching, and paddy fields were being prepared for planting. This labour-intensive job made me appreciate every grain. I reached Alor Setar (Alor Star) in good time and the Comfort Hotel was easily the most affordable in town. There was no “bathroom inside” but the bicycle could be inside, and the communal bathrooms were sparkling clean. The conveniently located night market behind the hotel provided easy pickings.

 

19 May - Alor Setar, Malaysia – Hat Yai, Thailand - 106 km

There wasn’t a single “How old ARE you?” on this day. I guessed my aura clearly stated, “Don’t even think about it!”. The 60 kilometres to the border was uneventful, and the crossing into Thailand was easy-peasy.

I followed the usual SIM card and ATM routine before a 57-kilometre cycle ride spat me out in Hat Yai. The area around the railway station came with a plethora of inexpensive digs. Park Hotel turned out quite reasonable at 350 Thai baht (app. $10) for a sizable room sporting wi-fi and a bathroom.

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