CYCLE TOURING THE USA (2) - PART ONE - SEATTLE TO SAN FRANCISCO

USA (2) PART ONE

SEATTLE TO SAN FRANCISCO

8 173 Kilometres – 134 Days
22 MAY – 1 OCTOBER 2014

PART ONE
SEATTLE - SAN FRANCISCO
22 May - 22 June
1700 Km - 31Days

 

Washington Photos 

Oregon

California

 

 

Washington

22 May – Seoul, South Korea - Seattle, Washington, USA

My flight from South Korea landed in Seattle USA, just as the sun started peaking over the horizon. The early morning light was amazing, and water and forests, a beautiful sight, surrounded the city. The remarkable part was arriving in Seattle before leaving Beijing, China. Dead tired, I collected my luggage, hailed a taxi and headed to downtown Seattle. We first swung by the bike shop to drop the bicycle and then searched for the hostel booked. Discovering my backpack, containing all my valuable items, was left in the taxi, no doubt, put me in a flat spin, to put it mildly. Yellow Taxi Cabs had a lost-and-found section, but I only left my details as I’d no phone number, car registration number or name to give them.

A snooze was called for as I never slept a wink during the flight. On waking, I discovered the lost bag placed on my bedside table. Happy dance! It must be mentioned, the taxi driver was the sweetest Somali guy, and we chatted non-stop during the ride from the airport. I knew if someone were going to return the bag, it would be him. So, a massive thank you to this unknown Somalian taxi driver.

 

23 May - Seattle

The next day was to explore the city as I’d a day or two to kill while the bike was serviced. The cycling maps ordered would also take a few days to arrive. Seattle had a lovely waterfront and market area and a delightful old town that made a pleasant stroll.

Following the obligatory cup of coffee at Starbucks, REI was up next. Big mistake as the store was quite marvellous. They had nearly everything a person could need for the outdoors, and all looked good quality stuff. I soon discovered it was pretty impossible to leave without buying something - this time, a solar panel to charge my growing number of devices.

 

24 May - Seattle

No maps came, but the bicycle was ready and not simply did the shop thoroughly service the bike but they also fixed the broken front rack. A Garmin North America map could be bought from Best Buy located on the opposite side of town. In the process, I got to ride all kinds of public transport. Purchasing the map was easy, and all one had to do was download the map from the internet; easy — famous last words.

 

25 May - Seattle

I was lucky to meet up with Mike (a 365-project friend), and we sauntered to the folk festival. Later, we walked up the hill to get a few night shots of the city skyline. Thanks, Mike.

 

26 May - Seattle

Getting itchy feet, I was keen to get going, but it would be a waste of money leaving without the maps ordered so I, stayed one more day.

A fascinating underground tour kept me busy. Way back in the 1800s, Seattle was a low-lying city built upon tidal flats whose streets were regularly flooded. Eventually, the town council raised the street level by building retaining walls, increasing the city level by one story. It’s underneath these streets where the morning was spent.

I later learned the maps had arrived a day earlier, but no one told me and I never asked. Silly me!

 

27 May - Seattle – Shelton - 80 km

Boarding the ferry that took passengers from Seattle to Bremerton was with great excitement as it was my first day on the road in the mighty USA. Unfortunately, not a significant distance was covered as it was already late upon reaching Bremerton.

From Bremerton, Route 3 headed south. The scenery was sublime and entirely unfamiliar, featuring tall pine trees and a snowy mountain backdrop. Even though not warm, the sun was out, and a pleasant day was spent pedalling to Shelton.

Being Memorial Day, the fascinating thing was that practically every village passed had a festival of fete of sorts, complete with corn dogs and lemonade. This was the USA, after all! Shortly before historic Shelton, a campground lured me in, a good choice as it provided a nearby food store.

 

28 May - Shelton – Centralia - 120 km

I emerged to a drizzle that lasted all day. Although cold, the ride remained beautiful, past small settlements resembling movie sets.

Centralia, dating to the 1800s, came as a pleasant surprise and revealed a historic downtown. Tiny Centralia was a delightful place where camping was behind a motel. With a food store nearby, the hotel made perfect camping. These places were fascinating as there were many homeless, disabled, drug addicts or mentally ill people. However, they were all exceedingly kind and eager to help wherever possible.

 

29 May - Centralia – Longview - 115 km

The next morning, a cycle through town revealed old murals and buildings after which the route took me out of town. The day turned out great as the sun shone, and the vistas were magnificent. At the same time, the path proceeded past a multitude of villages.

Towards the end of the day, and upon reaching Longview, home to the Cowlitz Indian Tribe, a motel was the single option. Unfortunately, Longview had no camping, and a motel was a blessing as the weather became freezing.

 

Oregon

30 May - Longview – Fort Stevens State Park - 115 km

From Longview, Route 4 followed the Columbian River, which turned out part of the historic Lewis and Clark Trail, both a cycle and hiking trail. The path followed the river until reaching Cathlamet from where one could cross the Columbian river to the state of Oregon. Crossing the river was in two parts, first by bridge to the island in the middle of the river, and then by ferry to Westport.

Cyclists met while crossing the river advised about state camping on the outskirts of Astoria, and heading there, was thus, a no-brainer. In addition, Astoria had an excellent tourist information which provided good information about the route and camping further south.

Once stocked up, I set out in the direction of the park. The park was vast and immensely fascinating, and not merely was the park the breeding ground of the snowy plovers, but it hit used remains of an old fort, a shipwreck, as well as hiking and biking trails. Soon, the other cyclists I met earlier arrived, and by evening a big campfire was made, both to keep warm and to socialise.

 

31 May - Fort Stevens State Park – Nehalem Bay State Park - 70 km

After packing up, I waved goodbye to the other cyclists and set off in the direction of the next state park. These parks were quite fantastic as they had Hike & Bike sections where one could camp at a mere five or $6. This suited me fine, as I’d no intention of rushing down the coast.

The day’s ride was stunning, and the views quite spectacular. Reaching Nehalem Bay was in good time, where the tent was pitched, and one could laze about the rest of the day. The park was located along a sandbank between the ocean and the Nehalem River and offered popular beach horse rides. Later, the other cyclists (Lam and Jeffry) arrived and a fire was made again to keep warm and heat supper.

 

1 June - Nehalem Bay State Park – Cape Lookout SP - 62 km

Following the coast brought many remarkable sights. Shortly after stopping at The Three Graces or Crab Rock, Garibaldi made an excellent opportunity to grab a bite to eat. This small settlement had a whole host of fascinating things.

Even though stopping gazillions of times, Cape Lookout SP was reached early. The park had a few hiking trails leading to a lookout which kept me busy the rest of the day.

 

2 June - Cape Lookout SP – Pacific City - 30 km

First thing in the morning, the road climbed up and over the hills to Pacific City. Once in town, and while filling up my water, a super-friendly guy started a conversation, and we chattered for a while. He turned out the Pacific Inn owner, and no sooner was I ensconced in a lovely room, free of charge! Not only was I generously given a place to stay, but the staff offered to do my laundry, and I hoped this kind offer wasn’t due to me reeking to high heaven.

The rest of the day was spent charging devices and chilling out watching TV. What luxury! By evening, I considered it time to do the American thing and eat at a traditional pub featuring country music, beer on tap and burgers. Oh, my word, what’s with the massive portions?

 

3 June - Pacific City – Beverly Beach SP - 70 km

Not thinking I would see Lam and Jeffry again, I was surprised to find them shortly beyond Pacific City, slowly crawling up a long hill. We cycled together, had coffee at McDonald’s, and shopped at a small grocery store. Afterwards, we agreed to meet at the next Hike & Bike and we hence proceeded at our own pace.

The stretch to Beverly Beach was short but exceptionally scenic, past Neskowin Beach, Boiler Bay, Pirate Cove, Rocky Creek and Devil’s Punchbowl.

 

4 June - Beverly Beach SP – Jessie M Honeyman - 70 km

Lam and Jeffry wanted to visit the bike shop the following morning, and I continued south. Spotting a fudge shop, a place no cyclist ever cycles past, two large pieces were purchased. While outside the shop, devouring one, the owner presented me with one of her famous chocolate brownies, neatly wrapped. Was that super kind or what? And I assumed capitalism was indeed dead!

 

5 June - Jessie M Honeyman - Bullards Beach - 112 km

From Jessie M Honeyman, an undulating coastal road led to Bullards Beach. The Oregon coast was picturesque and even more so with a tailwind. A few cyclists were already set up by the time I slinked into camp. Unfortunately, the wind was super strong, and two of my tent poles broke while pitching the tent in the high wind. Fortunately, other cyclists could help to repair it.

 

6 June - Bullards Beach – Gold Beach - 100 km

Flying out of Bullard’s Beach was with the aid of a 45 km/h wind, confirming cycling south was a good idea. Gold Beach, situated along the Rogue River, was so named following the discovery of gold in the river’s mouth in the mid-1800s. Unfortunately, the wind was howling, and best to give camping a miss as I didn’t entirely trust the tent in the strong wind.

A short walk led to a grocery store as well as a laundry where Steve, a remarkably fascinating man, was busy doing laundry. He appeared homeless, travelling by bicycle much like me, except I wasn’t interesting. His bicycle wasn’t a touring bike but appeared a “trick bike” with which he pulled a trailer stacked with three crates. He was the kindest person one could imagine and offered me his last washing powder, so I didn’t have to purchase any from the machine. How kind is that?

Returning, a store selling peculiar bits and bobs lured me in and, to my surprise, I uncovered a pack of tarot cards. I lost mine ages ago and couldn’t believe they were sold in this tiny village.

 

7 June - Gold Beach – Crescent City - 116 km

The next morning, en route to Crescent City, I again ran into Steve, who was busy collecting cans. He quickly offered me a muffin he had bought earlier and gave me a beautiful feather, something which nearly made me burst into tears. Still, the fact he remembered my name, impressed me most.

We chatted a while before I waved him goodbye, leaving him to his job of collecting cans. A short distance further, the route crossed the state line into California. It led past farmlands and small settlements, and I was surprised to meet a cyclist on his way north. Riding north meant he was into the prevailing wind, and not simply did he have a huge load but a crate (instead of a handlebar bag) holding a puppy. The little thing looked quite happy sitting there, enjoying the scenery. In Crescent City, and enquiring about camping, the closest was a wild camp without water or facilities. The next one seemed too far away - a perfect excuse to find a room.

Interestingly enough, just like most towns cycled through, tribes inhabited this region. Sadly, foreign trappers, settlers and gold miners reached the area in the mid-1800s, robbing them of their land, like in parts of Africa and Australia.

 

California

8 June - Crescent City - Palm Café & Motel - 70 km

Shortly after Crescent City, a cyclist was parked by the side of the road. She wasn’t merely equipped with four panniers but also a trailer, home to two dogs. I could barely get myself up the hills, let alone pull a cart and two dogs!

It became a beautiful day of cycling - the sun was out, and the route headed through forests and from time to time along the coast. Still, the area remained undulating and included one big(ish) climb. My legs felt tired, and though cycling days were short, there were no rest days since departing Seattle.

Later I ran into Casy, whom I’d met previously. We chatted a while and I decided to stay put at a nearby motel. The motel was way over-priced but feeling tired; I paid the price. The café had good food, as well as a daily special, which made the decision even easier.

 

9 June - Palm Café & Motel - Clam Beach State Park - 40 km

Trinidad’s pretty town and picture-perfect harbour and lighthouse called for a photo stop and shopping at the village store. Not much further, I caught up to another cyclist, and we cycled the few kilometres to Clam Beach campsite. Albeit early, Clam Beach seemed a good enough place to spend the night. The ground, nevertheless, later turned out somewhat exposed and sandy.

 

10 June - Clam Beach – Humboldt Redwood State Park - 95 km

From Clam Beach, country roads took me to Humboldt Redwood State Park. The areas outside the big cities were surprisingly rural.

With its old town and Victorian houses, Eureka made a perfect place to shop for a new tent. Adventures Edge, an outdoor store offering a good selection of camping equipment was just the place. With the new tent strapped to the bike, I was eager to try it out.

Soon afterwards, a turnoff pointed to Avenue of the Giants. What a spectacular sight, to see massive Redwood trees said the tallest trees in the world. These trees can get up to 2,000 years old. Virtually all the trees in the park were between 400 and 600 years old; which is pretty old for a tree.

Red Crescent had no grocery store, and I was pointed down the hill to the previous campsite. I sped downhill only to find no shop, then back up the hill to the next camp. I, luckily, had enough food to see me through. Eager to try the new tent, which was surprisingly easy to pitch and like moving into a new house. Slightly bigger and heavier than the lightweight one-person hiking tent used to date, it turned out a perfect tent made by Columbia, which lasted many years afterwards.

 

11 June - Humboldt Redwood State Park

Humboldt Redwood State Park was so unique it called for a day of hiking. Following cycling the four miles to the shop to stock up, I returned to my spot in the woods. The camp was surprisingly quiet for such a beautiful location, and me the sole camper. Later, more cyclists and Kat (the lady with the dogs) arrived. Our chatter continued until late as she was a fascinating yoga teacher who previously lived in India.

 

12 June - Humboldt Redwoods SP – Standish-Hickey SP - 80 km

The following morning, and in the next village, a family cycle touring the region recommended Standish-Hickey SP. I was told of a substantial hill looming, and best to tackle it on fresh legs. I thought this sound advice and cycled to the said campsite where I was the single camper.

 

13 June - Standish-Hickey SP – Mendocino - 88 km

The next morning, my route ran past the drive-thru tree and I snapped a few more pictures. Afterwards, I continued over the mountain which mercifully wasn’t as severe as predicted. The road soon spat me out at the coast, where a hilly ride took me via Fort Brag and to the next Hike & Bike.

 

14 June - Mendocino - Manchester Beach KOA - 66 km

The day was a short but immensely hilly ride and, as the internet was a priority, I pulled into KOA Manchester Beach thinking such a large and well-known campsite would’ve Wi-Fi as well as laundry facilities. But, unfortunately, the Wi-Fi was a disappointment and only free for an hour. Moreover, my Wi-Fi was quite useless as I never had a connection. The laundry, nevertheless, came in handy and I chucked a few things into the machine.

 

15 June - Manchester Beach KOA - Bodega Bay Dunes State Park - 120 km

The Californian coast was slightly undulating, but a beautiful one that called for numerous photo stops. Then, with good weather and cycling a pleasure, I proceeded to Bodega Bay.

 

16 June - Bodega Bay – San Rafael - 134 km

I veered inland to Bodega City, which offers interesting bits and pieces. The city and bay had a long history. As elsewhere, the Miwoks were the original landowners and the Spanish first surveyed the area in 1775. The Russians claimed the area for King and Country in the 1800s. To this day their legacy remains in names like the Russian River State Marine Recreational Management Area and the Russian River State Marine Conservation Area, two marine-protected areas in the Russian River.

The town was further The Birds’ film location, and the old schoolhouse was still used. Roadworks and detours encountered made a long day on the bicycle.

Eventually, I landed in San Rafael where a motel room became home that night due to a lack of camping. San Rafael was awfully close to San Francisco, but it was already late and I’d enough cycling for one day.

 

17 June - San Rafael – San Francisco - 35 km

A short cycle led over the iconic Golden Gate Bridge and into San Francisco. Shortly past the bridge, I met a cyclist who accompanied me to a hostel. Unfortunately, the first one was full. So we continued past the waterfront to the next one, but only after stopping for coffee and a bagel. The Adelaide Hostel turned out lovely (a tad pricy but so were all hostels in SF). It came with a complimentary breakfast and a highly central location.

I used the internet to catch up on online work but discovered that I had lost my daily journal.

I further discovered my phone’s SIM card slot faulty; no wonder my phone never had an internet connection. The Garmin map bought in Seattle never loaded on my device and I sent them an email inquiring regarding what to do. As if that wasn’t enough, my camera lens got stuck (after dropping the camera). Although still functioning, it lost the auto-focus. At the camera store, I bought a new lens. It wasn’t good quality but an 18-200 lens and, hence, one instead of the two previously carted around.

 

18 June - San Francisco

I further visited the computer shop to see if they could retrieve the lost file. The weather in San Francisco was glorious and a good day to take the streetcar to the waterfront. Besides wondering about and blending in, I obtained information regarding a train to Seattle. The news was good as a train departed San Francisco daily at around 22h00 to Seattle.

One still had to put the bicycle in a box, available at the station for $15 plus a $10 handling fee. I further understood all one had to do was go to the AM track office, where the bike and bags would be loaded onto the train. Though the train was from Emeryville, the ticket included a bus ride from the Amtrak office to the train station.

The plan was to return to Seattle and cycle from there, either across Canada or east across the US. In the meantime, my new passport was eventually ready, which my sister forwarded to the hostel in Seattle. Happy days!

 

19 June - San Francisco

With no phone call or email from the computer shop, I took a walk to find out what was happening. Regrettably, they couldn’t recover the lost file, and a big blank remained in the journal.

Garmin never returned the email, and I sent them an additional message; it didn’t make any difference as they never answered emails. Such poor service.

I was eager to get going but could hardly leave without the laptop. I further needed to apply for a Canadian visa, which seemed more trouble than it was worth. The online application was lengthy, and I lost interest even before registering. What a mission!

 

20 June - San Francisco

All these tedious doings were getting to me, and I joined a walking tour of San Francisco. Afterwards, a visit to the computer shop revealed they were still busy, and they advised me to check the following day. However, as the next day was a Saturday, they only opened at 12h00, which meant one more day in San Francisco.

At the hostel, a more serious effort was made to complete Canada’s lengthy and complicated online visa application. My word, it was like applying to become president. Canada wanted all your family information, both dead and alive and therefore, late at night when all was finished.

 

21 June - San Francisco

After breakfast, I picked up my laptop, and once at the hostel, I could complete the visa information. Still, there was no word about what form the visa would take and how it should be collected, and I guessed some form of proof would be emailed. The website gave the estimated processing times for the various offices but not an online application.

Eventually, all was done and even if no processing time was mentioned, I imagined it would be a long wait, in the region of three weeks or more.

 

22 June - San Francisco

I made my way to the Amtrak station. The bike boxes sold were quite large and easy to fit the bicycle once the pedals were removed and the handlebars turned sideways. The remainder of my stuff went into one large bag (bought in China Town). Unfortunately, the train wasn’t due until evening, and I’d a whole day to kill.

The best part of the day was spent trying to rewrite my lost journal - a laborious task - and by evening a short stroll took me downtown to the Amtrak office, from where busses ran to Emeryville.

The train was a strange setup – I’d never seen a double-storey train before. It was extremely comfortable and provided plenty of legroom. It was good because my seat was next to a rather large person. I then realised how difficult it must be to lug such a size around; everything is double the trouble. One constantly needed to feed the body to maintain such a size. All this effort must leave them exhausted by the end of the day.

 

23 June – San Fransisco – Seattle – By train

For the most part my time on the train was spent trying to rewrite the journal, not an easy task taking my goldfish memory. With the help of my photos and Google maps, I reconstructed the past month’s events. It wasn’t perfect and made uninteresting reading but I again lost interest long before the job was done. Fortunately, there was nothing to do, and one couldn’t go anywhere and I was thus forced to finish the job.

The train ride was picturesque, and quite a novelty sitting back and watching the landscape go by without pedalling a single stroke.

The train reached Seattle late; mercifully, the hostel was basically across the road from the train station. Once the bike was reassembled, I packed my belongings and cycled the short distance to the hostel.

 

24-25 June - Seattle

First thing in the morning, a short walk took me to the Canadian Consulate, only to find they had no visa information and didn’t know how to collect it once granted. This lack of info left me no other option than to resume my quest east across the US’s northern states until Canadian access was granted.

The weather was most glorious and perfect to join a walking tour, sampling their world-famous clam chowder while feeding seagulls and watching the sunset.